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THE  BOOK   OF  VEGETABLES 


^^^ 


THE 

BOOK  OF  VEGETABLES 

AND    GARDEN    HERBS 


A    PRACTICAL    HANDBOOK    AXD    PLANTING 
TABLE     FOK    THE    VEGETABLE    GAIJDENER 


BY 

ALLEX   FREXCH 


THE    MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

LONDON:  MACMILLAN  &  CO.,  Ltd. 

1907 

All   rights  reserved 


Copyright,   1907 
By  Tiie  Macraillan  Company- 
Set  up  and  electrotyped.   Published  April,  1907 


.  Horace  McFarland  Company 
Harrisburg.  Pa. 


Co  K  ^.  ID. 
M  ipIotBer=<!5arbener 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS 

PAGE 

PREFACE ix 

PLANTING   TABLE       ....  1 

TABLE    OF    SEED-LONGEVITY    AND 

OUNCE    VALUES           ....  300 

INDEX 305 


(vii) 


PREFACE 

HIS  book  is  designed  to  be  of  assistance  to  all 
who  have  to  do  with  vegetable  seeds,  whether  as 
buyers  or  as  sellers. 

When  a  beginner  in  vegetable-gardening,  I  Mas 
painfully  aware  of  my  need  of  a  convenient  and  reliable 
planting-table,  giving  particular  directions  for  the  cul- 
ture of  all  vegetables.  I  should  have  been  saved  mis- 
takes both  ludicrous  and  vexatious  by  such  a  book,  the 
general  value  of  which  I  can  best  illustrate  by  a  quota- 
tion from  the  English  "Book  of  Asparagus,''  by  Charles 
Ilott  (the  John  Lane  Company,  publishers).  The 
author  tells  the  followino;: 

"Only  a  few  weeks  ago  I  was  in  a  garden  where 
there  was  a  large  bed  of  salsify.  The  owner  was  not 
satisfied  with  the  plants,  and  told  me  he  had  changed 
his  seedsman,  because  the  salsify  was  poor  and  strag- 
gling. I  examined  the  bed,  and  counted  eight  plants  to 
the  foot  run.  I  turned  to  the  other  side  of  the  bed, 
where  broccoli  was  planted,  and  found  them  a  foot 
apart  from  row  to  row  and  less  in  the  rows.  They  were 
about  three  feet  high,  so  I  said,  "Your  broccoli  is  also 
a  failure.''  "Yes,"  he  said,  "no  more  seed  from  iVIessrs. 
So-and-so."  I  said,  "Are  you  not  blaming  your  seeds- 
man  for  your  own   ignorance?"    He   said,   "Well,   my 

(ix) 


X  PREFACE 

gardener  is  of  the  same  opinion  as  myself.'"  I  asked  to 
see  the  gardener.  He  replied  tliat  he  had  not  one  now, 
but  wanted  one.  I  replied,  "Yes,  you  certainly  do 
want  one."  ...  I  then  told  him  what  I  thought,  and 
wondered  how  often  our  nurserymen  and  seedsmen  are 
blamed  for  our  incompetency.'"' 

This  instance  of  the  loss  of  a  summer's  work  from 
mere  ignorance  of  proper  planting  distances,  is  but  an 
illustration  of  one  of  the  several  ways  in  which  a  crop 
of  vegetables  may  be,  if  not  ruined,  at  least  greatly 
lessened.  In  the  culture  of  almost  every  vegetable  there 
is  some  point  to  be  observed  which  is  essential  to  real 
success.  The  deep  planting  of  one  seed  is  as  necessary 
as  the  shallow  planting  of  another;  the  tenderness  and 
hardiness  of  plants  must  be  understood  and  considered. 
Besides  these  there  are  many  points  of  knowledge 
brought  out  by  recent  investigations — as  for  instance 
in  the  fertilization  or  protection  of  the  crop — which  aid 
in  increasing  the  normal  yield.  In  spite  of  the  evident 
need,  these  items  have  never  before  been  brought  to- 
gether in  convenient  form,  thoroughly  covering  not 
merely  classes  of  vegetables,  but  all  the  separate  kinds. 

This  book  is  intended,  therefore,  for  seedsmen  and 
their  customers,  that  both  may  get  full  benefit  from  the 
seeds,  the  latter  in  good  crops,  the  former  in  continued 
custom. 

That  seedsmen  have  long  recognized  the  need  of 
such  a  book  is  evident  from  their  catalogues,  in  which 


PREFACE  xi 

they  regularly  publish  brief  directions  for  the  culture  of 
vegetables.  These  directions  are,  however,  both  short 
and  incomplete,  for  in  the  space  at  their  disposal  the 
seedsmen  cannot  summarize  all  that  it  is  of  benefit  to 
know  of  the  culture  of  all  vegetables. 

At  the  same  time  the  handbooks  on  vegetable  cul- 
ture, excellent  as  they  are,  treat  vegetables  as  a  rule  in 
classes  rather  than  individually,  and  do  not  mention 
many  of  the  valuable  sorts  which  are  rare  or  of  recent 
introduction. 

Dates  and  methods,  as  here  outlined,  are  proper  for 
the  climate  of  the  northern  United  States.  Generally 
speaking,  in  stating  planting-times  the  latitude  con- 
sidered is  that  of  the  city  of  New  York,  but  for  other 
places  the  difference  in  season  can  be  roughly  worked 
out  bv  allowins^  six  davs'  difference  for  each  hundred 
miles  of  latitude.  This  will  not  cover,  of  course,  wide 
differences  of  altitude,  so  that  these  will  often  have  to 
be  considered.  Moreover,  our  springs  are  uncertain 
and  variable,  so  that  the  planting-times  here  given 
are  but  an  average,  and  for  each  year  the  time  of 
first  planting  will  really  be  shown  by  the  ground  itself. 
"When  the  ground  is  fit,''  and  "When  the  ground  can 
be  worked,''  are  convenient  gardeners'  phrases,  meaning 
when  the  frost  is  out  and  the  ground  sufficiently  dry  to 
be  workable.  This  last  will  vary  with  local  differences 
in  soils,  whether  sandv  (which  is  earliest),  loamy  (which 
is  of  medium  season)  or  clayey  (which  is  late). 


XI 1 


PREFACE 


With  such  local  soil-conditions  this  book  has  noth- 
ing to  do;  if  a  man's  soil  is  late  it  is  both  his  misfortune 
and  (if  he  has  cultivated  it  for  any  length  of  time)  his 
fault.  He  can  improve  it  by  the  means  suggested  in 
the  handbooks  on  gardening,  or  in  the  various  govern- 
ment and  state  pamphlets,  to  which  he  is  also  referred 
for  the  general  subject  of  soil-management.  But  if,  as 
is  most  likely,  his  garden  or  his  fields  have  soils  diff'er- 


Fi^  1     The  old  t^tyle  \e^etible  bed  ind  the  bick  brenking  process 

of  weeding.       NOAddajS  Vegctablca   dfC   gi.jvVn    11.    ro>\o. 

ing  in  character,  he  can  learn  from  tliis  book  in  which 
particular  spot  a  given  plant  will  best  thrive.  Fortu- 
nately, while  undoubtedly  plants  have  preferences,  it  is 
possible  to  grow  most  of  them  successfully  on  average 
soil. 

With  each  plant  I  have  given  a  summary  of  its  uses, 
its  culture,  and  in  case  it  is  little  known,  its  virtues. 
"Annual"'  means  that  a  plant  will,  under  natural  con- 
ditions, go  to  seed  and  die  in  one  season;  "bienniar"* 


PREFACE  xiii 

means  that  the  plant  requires  two  years  for  developing 
its  seed;  "perennial"  means  that,  however  often  the 
plant  may  produce  seed,  its  root  lives  on  for  a  number 
of  years. 

For  each  plant  are  given  sowing-directions.  I  as- 
sume that  nowadays  no  one  grows  vegetables  in  beds. 
Space  is  better  utilized  and  labor  is  saved  by  growing 
the  plants  in  drills  or  rows,  except  in  the  field-culture 
of  various  crops,  sowed  broadcast,  with  which  this  book 
has  nothing  to  do.  Broadcast  sowing  in  the  seed-bed  is, 
of  course,  a  recognized  garden  practice  resorted  to  in 
special  cases. 

The  proper  distance  of  rows  from  each  other  is  prac- 
tically determined  by  the  height  and  spread  (whether 
above  or  below  ground^  of  the  plants :  they  should  not 
crowd  or  shade  each  other.  The  distances  here  given  are 
the  smallest  which  can  safely  he  used  for  hand  cidture. 
Convenience  will  in  many  cases  lead  the  gardener  to 
plant  at  greater  distances  if  he  has  the  space,  while  if 
he  depends  on  horse-culture  he  must  plant  still  farther 
apart,  usually  thirty  inches  at  the  least.  That  is  his 
affair.  This  book  is  intended  to  help  not  only  the  man 
with  plenty  of  room,  but  also  the  man  who,  by  means 
of  intensive  cultivation,  must  get  all  he  can  from  a 
small  patch. 

Indicating  the  distances  that  seed  should  be  sown  in 
the  rows  is  intended  to  help  in  economizing  seed  as 
well  as  in  the  saving  of  labor.    It  is  wasteful  to  sow  an 


xiv  PREFACE 

ounce  of  seerl  if  a  packet  will  do  the  work;  and  it  is  ex- 
asperatin^r  to  spend  time  in  thinning  what  never  should 
have  been  sown.  A  "good  stand"  of  anything  makes 
troublesome  thinning;  while  in  the  case  of  asparagus, 
unless  early  and  savagely  thinned,  extermination  of  the 
superfluous  plants  is  impossible  without  digging  out 
their  crowns. 

I  suppose  I  need  hardly  say  that  seed  should  be 
fresh,  and  bought  of  a  reliable  dealer.  If  a  gardener 
wishes  to  sow  old  seed,  he  should  first  test  its  viability. 
The  simplest  method  is  to  lay  a  given  number  of  seed 
between  moist  cloths,  in  a  tin  box  or  between  two 
dinner-plates  laid  edge  to  edge;  the  percentage  of  ger- 
mination is  thus  easily  found. 

As  for  the  dealer,  there  is  no  excuse  for  not  buying 
of  one  of  the  many  reputable  city  houses,  all  of  which 
prepay  mail  charges  on  seed  ordered  by  the  ounce  or 
packet.    Grocery-store  seed  is  too  often  old  and  poor. 

It  would  be  of  value  if  I  could  give  here  the  number 
of  feet  of  drill  that  an  ounce  of  a  given  seed  will  sow, 
or  the  number  of  plants  that  an  ounce  will  produce, 
but  this  subject  has  never,  so  far  as  I  have  found,  been 
reliably  and  extensively  tested,  Seedsmen'^s  statements 
oh  this  point  are  (as  I  learn  from  the  experiments  of 
Professor  Bailey,  and  from  my  own  experience)  merely 
guesses  on  the  safe  side.  One  ounce  of  the  seed  of  corn- 
salad,  often  quoted  as  enough  for  fifty  feet  of  row,  is 
really,  if  good  weight,  enough  for  at  least  two  hundred 


PREFACE  XV 

feet.  An  ounce  of  good  asparagus  seed,  traditionally 
equal  to  sixty  feet  of  drill,  will  really  sow  five  times  as 
much.  I  have  not,  however,  been  able  to  study  this 
matter  thoroughly,  and  in  the  absence  of  reliable  data 
I  have  not  ventured  to  give,  under  each  heading,  the 
number  of  plants  or  feet  of  row  that  can  be  got  from 
an  ounce  of  seed.  I  have,  however,  appended  a  table  of 
supposed  ounce-values,  which  may  be  of  some  help  to  a 
gardener  in  making  his  list  of  purchases.  Accurate  cor- 
rections will  be  welcome. 

The  depth  of  planting  makes  little  difference  in  the 
case  of  some  seeds,  but  much  in  others.  Celery  seed 
sown  too  deep,  for  instance,  will  never  come  up,  so  that 
ignorant  sowing  may  mean  the  loss  of  the  chance  to 
raise -a  crop.  At  the  same  time,  again,  summer  peas 
planted  too  shallow  are  in  danger  of  mildew.  It  is  well, 
therefore,  to  pay  attention  to  this  matter. 

Thinning  is  a  subject  which  is  too  little  considered. 
It  requires  some  heroism  to  thin  properly,  even  with 
experience  of  the  results.  My  quotation  from  Ilott 
shows  the  value  of  thinning,  which  should  always  be 
rigorously  practiced.  The  distances  here  given  are 
usually  the  least  that  can  safely  be  allowed,  for  the  ad- 
vantage, as  above,  of  the  man  with  a  small  garden. 
But  even  he  must  thin,  for  however  rich  his  ground 
may  be,  no  man  can  raise  two  prime  parsnips,  for  in- 
stance, where  there  is  room  for  but  one. 

In  the  body  of  the  book  I  have  given  none  of  the 


XVI 


PREFACE 


common  cultural  directions.  Here  let  me  say  that  I  as- 
sume that  every  autumn  the  ground  will  be  deeply 
ploughed  or  dug  over,  and  that  in  spring  it  will  be  put 
in  good  surface-condition  for  sowing.  During  the  grow- 
ing season  I  assume  that  weeds  will  not  be  allowed  to 
grow,  and  that  after  rains,  and  between  them  whenever 
necessary,  the  surface  of  the  soil  will  be  stirred 
with  the  hoe,  rake,  or  cultivator,  to  kill  the 
sprouting  weeds  and  to  preserve  the  surface- 
mulch. 


Fig.  2.    Types  of  wheel-hoes,  or  hand  cultiv;iturs. 

This  surface-mulch  may  be  defined — for  the  benefit 
of  the  beginner — as  a  dust  blanket  above  the  moist 
earth,  to  prevent  its  drying  out.  For  it  may  be  broadly 
said  that  so  long  as  the  ground  looks  wet  it  is  losing  its 
moisture,  while  as  soon  as  the  surface  has  been  broken 
and  refined  to  powder  the  evaporation  is  stopped.  This 
work  is  done,  on  small  areas,  by  the  hoe  and  rake,  and 
on  larger  areas  by  the  cultivator.  The  garden  must  be 
a  small  one  in  which  the  hand-cultivator,  or  wheel-hoe, 
will  not   soon   save   its   cost  in   economy  of  time   and 


PREFACE  xvii 

labor,  while  in  a  large  garden  the  horse-cultivator  is  a 
necessity.  Regular  and  persistent  cultivation  is  essential 
to  success  in  gardening,  and  is  the  best  of  the  two 
methods  for  bringing  the  garden  through  a  di'ought. 

The  other  method,  irrigation,  is  laborious,  expen- 
sive, and  seldom  entirely  successful.  It  is  best  applied 
by  leading  the  water  alongside  the  plants  in  furrows 
dug  for  the  purpose ;  the  ground  should  be  soaked,  the 
furrows  closed  and  mulched.  But  for  an  ordinary 
drought  cultivation  is  sufficient. 

Besides  cultivating  regularly,  I  assume  that  all  gar- 
deners keep  their  soil  rich  by  generous  applications  of 
manure  or  chemical  fertilizers — preferably  both.  A  few 
plants  seem  to  be  injured  by  overfeeding,  especially 
those  root-crops  which  suffer  upon  ground  that  has 
been  recently  manured.  These  plants  I  have  indicated, 
but  in  general  all  plants  thrive  best  upon  rich  soil,  and 
the  oft-repeated  rule  for  vegetable  gardens  is :  Give  too 
much,  in  order  to  be  sure  to  have  enough. 

Such  directions  for  fertilizing  as  I  have  given  in  the 
book  are  (over  and  above  the  necessary  general  fertiliz- 
ing) for  the  special  needs  of  special  crops.  Knowledge 
of  this  subject  is  however  as  yet  too  inexact  for  me  to 
be  in  all  cases  either  positive  or  precise.  Experiment 
stations  all  over  the  country  are  at  present  working 
upon  this  problem  of  fertilizers  for  special  crops,  a  so- 
lution of  which  problem  will  take  fewer  dollars  from  the 
farmers'  pockets  and  put  more  into  them — but  that 


xviii  PREFACE 

millenium  has  not  yet  come.  Even  where  I  have  given 
specific  directions,  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  these,  for 
extensive  gardening,  will  always  be  modified  by  soil- 
conditions. 

For  the  general  subject  of  fertilizers  I  refer  my 
readers  to  Professor  Edward  B.  Voorhees"*  standard  book 
upon  the  subject,  to  his  Farmers"*  Bulletion  No.  44,  and 
to  the  reports  of  himself  and  others  in  the  bulletins  of 
the  New  Jersey,  Vermont,  Connecticut,  Delaware,  Maine, 
and  Rhode  Island  experiment  stations.  The  study  of 
the  question  of  home-mixed  fertilizers  I  commend  to 
all  who  are  interested  in  fertilizer  economy  and  the  im- 
provement of  their  crops.  For  general  gardening  pur- 
poses they  will  find  Professor  Voorhees"*  "  basic  fertilizer 
mixture"  (nitrogen  4  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid  8  per 
cent,  potash  10  per  cent)  one  of  the  best.  I  assume 
that  even  the  beginner  will  master  the  difference  be- 
tween high-grade  and  low-grade  fertilizers. 

Manure  is  a  necessity  for  successful  vegetable  gar- 
dening. The  general  subject  of  Barnyard  Manure  is 
treated  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  192.  (Farmers'  Bulle- 
tins may  be  obtained  free,  by  applying  to  the  Secretary 
of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.)  For  a  fall  dress- 
ing fresh  manure  may  be  applied,  but  usually  only 
well-rotted  manure,  or  what  the  English  call  "short" 
manure,  is  proper  to  use  in  the  garden.  Good  manure 
is  valuable;  the  man  who  owns  horses  or  cows  will  cure 
his  manure  carefully  under  cover,  while  the  man  who 


PREFACE  xix 

does  not  keep  stock  will  be  fortunate  if  he  can  buy  well- 
cured  manure. 

"Liquid  manure,'"  as  spoken  of  in  this  book,  can  be 
conveniently  made  by  immersing  a  bag  of  fresh  horse- 
manure  in  a  tub  of  water.  The  product  is  strong  in 
nitrogen,  and  is  excellent  as  an  application  to  plants 
which  are  expected  to  make  a  good  stalk  and  leaf 
growth.  The  liquid  manure  should  be  applied  dilute, 
and  in  small  quantities;  it  should  be  put  upon  the 
ground,  and  never  upon  the  plant  itself. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  much  used  for  the  same  purpose, 
should  also  be  sparingly  applied,  and  not  upon  the 
plant.  It  may  be  strewed  upon  the  ground,  to  be  car- 
ried to  the  roots  by  the  rains,  or  may  first  be  dissolved 
in  water.  Nitrate  of  soda  and  liquid  manure  are  always 
best  applied  in  occasional  small  doses,  rather  than  in 
larger  ones  at  greater  intervals,  on  account  of  the 
danger  of  over-stimulating  the  plants,  as  well  as  of  loss 
of  fertilizer  by  leaching. 

For  seed-sowing  I  assume  that  the  practice  is  as 
follows.  The  soil  being  well  pulverized  to  the  depth  of 
a  foot  or  more,  the  drill  is  dug  to  the  required  depth, 
the  seed  is  scattered  or  laid  within  it  at  the  proper  dis- 
tances, the  soil  is  raked  upon  the  seeds  (without  dis- 
turbing them)  and  made  firm  hy  pressure  (by  treading 
or  rolling),  and  then  the  row  is  mulched  lightly  with 
loose  earth  to  keep  it  from  baking  or  drying  out.  In 
case  the  soil  is  very  dry  it  is  well  first  to  fill  the  furrow 


XX  PREFACE 

with  water,  and  after  this  has  drained  away  to  scatter 
in  moist  but  not  wet  earth  before  sowing  the  seed. 
That  the  moisture  of  the  ground  shall  reach  the  seeds, 
firming  the  ground  upon  them  is  imperative. 

A  still  better  method  of  hand-sowing  consists  in 
making  the  drill  deeper  than  directed,  scattering  along 
it  some  good  chemical  fertilizer,  rich  in  nitrogen,  and 
covering  this  with  earth  before  sowing  the  seed,  which 
direct  contact  with  the  chemical  would  injure.  The 
fertilizer,  thus  placed,  gives  the  plants  the  much-desired 
"quick  start,"  with  a  supply  of  food  for  later  growth. 

Many  gardeners  use  seed-drills,  which  dig  the  fur- 
row, sow  the  seed,  cover  it,  and  firm  the  ground,  all  in 
one  operation,  with  great  economy  of  time.  In  a  large 
garden,  with  long  rows,  seed-drills  are  valuable.  The 
row  should  always  be  mulched  with  the  rake  after  sow- 
ing. If  the  seed-drill  is  used,  fertilizer  cannot  be  sowed 
underneath  the  seed,  and  the  plant  must  depend  upon 
the  food  already  present  in  the  soil,  or  upon  chemicals 
scattered  alongside  the  rows.  Machines  have  been 
made,  however,  for  sowing  fertilizers  alongside  drilled 
seeds,  and  although  the  fertilizer  will  not  be,  as  best, 
beneath  the  plants,  it  will  doubtless  benefit  them. 

In  sowing  in  hills  the  seeds  should  be  a  few  inches 
apart,  in  a  little  circle,  so  that  when  thinned  one  seed- 
ling will  not  pull  another  up.  Make  the  circle  larger 
or  smaller  according  to  the  number  of  plants  that  are 
to  remain,  and  to  their  eventual  size.    Seed-drills  are 


PREFACE 


inn 


made  to  sow  seed  in  hills,  but  where  the  time  and  labor 
can  be  spared,  hand-so^\ing  is  better. 


Fig.  3.    styles  of  seed-drills  for  hand-  and  horse-power,  for  general 
or  special  purposes. 


xxii  PREFACE 

A  seed-bed,  here  fi*equently  mentioned,  is  a  specially 
prepared  plot  of  ground,  warm,  light,  "quick,""  well- 
drained,  and  in  the  best  possible  tilth.  It  is  used  for 
bringing  young  plants  on  rapidly.  Seed-bed  methods 
should  be  studied  in  the  handbooks,  where  also  are 
explained  the  methods  of  raising  plants  under  glass.  If 
a  gardener  possesses  nothing  more  than  a  small  cold- 
frame  he  can  save  himself  much  time  and  labor,  and 
can  greatly  hasten  the  maturity  of  man}'  of  his  plants, 
while  hotbeds  and  a  greenhouse  will  assist  him  still 
more. 

For  transplanting  and  picking  I  have  given  particu- 
lar directions  wherever  necessary.  Detailed  directions 
for  transplanting  must  be  sought  in  the  handbooks; 
generally  it  may  be  said:  Move  each  plant  with  as 
large  a  ball  of  earth  around  its  roots  as  possible,  and 
trim  off  about  a  third  of  its  top,  or  even  more.  Water 
after  setting  (the  depth  may  usually  be  a  little  deeper 
than  before),  firm  the  earth  well,  and  if  the  sun  is  very 
strong  give  shade  for  a  day  or  two  when  the  sun  is 
overhead  or  while  the  plants  show  weakness.  A  light 
dose  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  after  setting 
will  often  help  to  the  new  start.  Mulch  at  once,  and 
cultivate. 

The  direction :  "  when  well  up^""  is  here  frequently 
used  to  indicate  the  time  when  plants  should  be  thinned 
or  transplanted.  The  term  is  a  variable  one,  and  the 
gardener  must   develop  his   judgment  in   the  matter. 


PREFACE  xxiii 

Generally,  for  thinning  the  term  means  when  the 
young  plants  have  developed  three  or  four  true  leaves 
and  are  growing  well.  For  transplanting,  six  or  more 
true  leaves  are  usually  necessary. 

The  list  of  vegetables  given  in  the  book  I  have  en- 
deavored to  make  complete,  including  in  it  all  which 
are  likely  to  be  grown  in  our  climate,  even  by  the 
experimenter.  Besides  the  well-known  vegetables  and 
herbs,  I  have  added  to  the  list  not  only  those  plants 
which,  while  little  known,  are  yet  carried  by  American 
seedsmen,  but  also  some  which  are  not  yet  offered  here. 
Of  these,  some  may  never  be  known  in  America  beyond 
a  few  individual  importers  of  curious  seeds,  but  others 
are  deserving  of  our  notice. 

And  I  cannot  help  adding  here  a  plea  for  a  wider 
trial  of  the  little-known  vegetables.  It  is  too  much  to 
expect  that  the  American  farmer  will  ever  add  more 
than  one  or  two  to  his  very  limited  list  of  poorly-grown 
garden  truck;  I  appeal  more  to  vegetable -gardeners 
who  do  their  work  for  the  fun  as  well  as  the  benefit  of 
it.  The  best  vegetables  in  our  country  are  grown,  not 
on  farms  nor  even  in  large  market-gardens,  but  in  the 
thousands  of  small  home  gardens  that  surround  our 
cities.  From  these  gardens  to  the  simple  home  table  go 
dishes  fit  for  the  traditional  king,  but  the  owners  of 
these  gardens  are  still  somewhat  limited  by  national 
habit  and  local  knowledge.  If  by  making  plain  the  cul- 
ture of  the  less-known   vegetables  this    book  aids  in 


xxiv  PREFACE 

their  introduction,  I  shall  consider  that  it  has  done  a 
good  deal.  There  are  European  delicacies  such  as  the 
globe  artichoke,  celeriac,  cardoon,  sea-kale,  and  chard, 
each  one  of  which  has  strong  points  of  individuality  to 
distinguish  it  from  most  of  our  vegetables,  as  well  as 
some  consideration  of  delicacy,  flavor,  season,  or  copious 
yield  to  make  it  worth  a  place  in  any  kitchen -garden. 
Indeed,  to  say  nothing  of  these  vegetables,  which  are 
known  here  chiefly  among  our  foreign  population,  there 
are  others  long  known  to  us,  of  which  the  virtues  are 
not  universally  appreciated,  for  the  Jerusalem  artichoke 
is  still  but  an  incidental  crop,  and  in  many  parts  of  the 
country  carrots  are  grown  chiefly  for  cattle,  their  finer 
varieties  being  entirely  unknown.  If  but  our  common 
vegetables  become  better  known  by  means  of  this  book, 
even  then  it  will  have  served  a  useful  purpose. 

There  is  so  much,  besides,  in  a  proper  handling  of 
the  vegetables  which  we  already  have,  that  if  this  book 
only  helps  to  improve  their  culture  it  will  have  done 
enough.  The  planting  distances  and  depths,  the  soil  in 
which,  the  fertilizer  by  which,  the  particular  method 
through  which  the  best  results  can  be  won — proper 
knowledge  of  these  is  enough  to  increase  by  half  the 
yield  of  many  a  garden.  Finally,  if  those  who  use  the 
old  methods — or  none  at  all — against  pests  and  dis- 
eases would  but  avail  themselves  of  modern  knowledge, 
they  on  their  parts  would  mightily  increase  their  har- 
vests.    I  have  endeavored  to  include  all  the  practical 


PREFACE 


XXV 


protective  measures;  they  can  be  further  studied  in  the 
bulletins  of  the  federal  government  and  of  the  different 
states,  as  well  as  in  recent  handbooks,  notably  Smith's 
"Economic  Entomology,''  and  Lodeman's  "The  Spray- 
ing of  Plants."  I  have  no  hesitation  in  recommending 
any  vegetable  gardener  to  purchase  these  books,  and  to 
provide  himself  with  a  spraying  outfit  suitable  to  the 
size  of  his  gar- 
den, whether  the 
outfit  consist  of 
a  power  sprayer 
or  merely  of  a 
whisk  broom. 

In  the  names 
of  plants  I  have 
followed  the  us- 
age of  the  Cyclo- 
pedia of  Ameri- 
can Horticul- 
ture, giving  cross  references  from  local  or  popular  names. 

I  have  not  concerned  myself  with  plant  varieties  or 
varietal  names,  which  are  often  merely  of  local  impor- 
tance and  appear  and  disappear  rapidly.  I  have,  how- 
ever, given  the  classes  into  which  the  varieties  fall  (as 
pole  and  bush  beans,  early  and  late  cabbage,  tall  and 
dwarf  peas),  with  directions  for  their  different  treat- 
ment. For  a  choice  of  varieties,  I  advise  beginners  to 
choose  a  good  seedsman  and  depend  upon  his  advice, 


Fig.  4.    A  knapsack  spray-pump,  one  of  the 
various  convenient  hand-power  devices. 


xxvi  PREFACE 

and  to  go  slow  in  buying  novelties.  Some  wise  man  has 
said  that  the  value  of  a  variety  is  inversely  as  the  space 
given  to  it  in  the  dealer's  catalogue. 

Besides  my  own  experience  I  have  consulted  many 
gardening  authorities.  The  seedsmen*'s  catalogues  above 
mentioned,  whose  brief  directions  are  not  to  be  de- 
spised; the  state  and  government  bulletins;  the  columns 
of  the  garden  magazines;  various  monographs;  Mrs. 
Fullerton's  "How  to  Make  a  Vegetable  Garden'';  the 
latest  excellent  edition  of  Vilmorin-Andrieux's  "The 
Vegetable  Garden";  those  two  English  authorities, 
Thompson's  "Gardener's  Assistant"  and  Nicholson's 
"Cyclopedia  of  Horticulture";  Peter  Henderson's  two 
books;  and  particularly  Professor  L.  H.  Bailey's  "Prin- 
ciples of  Vegetable  Gardening,"  his  various  handbooks, 
and  the  "Cyclopedia  of  American  Horticulture,"  edited 
by  him  and  by  Wilhelm  Miller — all  these  have  been 
carefully  consulted  in  preparing  this  book,  and  to  them 
I  make  cordial  acknowledgment  of  indebtedness. 

My  book  is  intended  to  be  a  supplement  to  the 
more  complete  treatises  upon  the  general  subject  of 
vegetable  gardening.  It  gives  much  that  they  omit, 
and  purposely  omits  much  that  they  include.  In  the 
hope  of  perfecting  the  book,  I  will  gladly  receive  cor- 
rections and  suggestions  from  any  of  its  readers. 

ALLEN  FRENCH. 

CovcoRD,  Massachusetts. 
March,  1907. 


THE  BOOK  OF  VEGETABLES 


PLANTING  TABLE 

AGRIMONY  (Agrimonia  Eupatoria).  Agrimony  is 
a  hardy  perennial  herb,  grown  for  its  astringent  and 
aromatic  leaves,  which  were  formerly  much  used  in 
domestic  medicine.  The  plant  is  now  but  little  grown, 
and  few  seedsmen  offer  the  seed.  It  is  raised  from  seed, 
but  preferably  from  root-divisions.    See  also  Feverfew. 

Soil. — Any  good  earth. 

Distances. — Rows  two  feet  apart,  plants  eighteen 
inches  in  the  rows. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  thinly,  the  depth  about 
an  inch.    Or  sow  in  seed-bed  and  transplant. 

Thin  when  the  plants  are  well  up. 

Set  roots  in  spring. 

Pick  as  wanted  when  the  plants  are  well  grown, 
or  dry  and  store. 

Renew  or  root-prune  when  the  plants  show  less 
vigor. 

AGRIMONY,  HEMP.    See  Thoroughwort. 

ALECOST.     See  Costmary. 
A  (1) 


nrorewT  mum 

N.  C  State  Conesf 


2  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

ANGELICA.  A  perennial  sweet  herb  (Angelica 
officinalis  or  A.  arrhangelica)  once  used  in  medicine  on 
account  of  supposed  angelic  virtues.  Grown  for  its 
leaves  and  steins,  which  are  candied ;  occasionally  used 
as  a  pot-herb. 

Soil  should  be  rich,  deep  and  moist. 

Sow  in  fall,  or  in  a  seed-bed  in  spring,  thinly  in 
rows  one  foot  apart. 

Depths  about  one  inch. 

Thin  to  three  to  four  inches. 

Transplant  when  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  tall,  or 
in  the  next  spring,  to  two  feet  by  eighteen  inches. 

Picking  may  be  begun  during  the  second  summer, 
when  the  plants  are  well  established.  Gather  the  leaves 
at  intervals  until  the  flower-stalks  appear  (in  the  second 
or  third  summer),  when  cut  down  the  whole  plant,  and 
use  the  tender  parts.  It  should  give  another  picking  in 
the  fall,  and  will  sometimes  bear  an  inferior  crop  the 
following  spring. 

Renew  from  seed,  planting  every  two  or  three  years. 
The  plants  are  useless  after  they  have  flowered. 

ANISE  is  Pimpinella  anisum^  an  annual  condimental 
herb  grown  for  its  seeds,  which  are  used  chiefly  in  fla- 
voring, but  also  in  perfumes,  confectionery,  cordials,  and 
in  American  fox-hunting.  No  varieties  are  offered,  and 
no  serious  pests  or  diseases  reported. 

Soil  should  be  a  sandy  loam. 


ARNICA— ARTICHOKE  3 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  thickly,  in  drills  one  foot 
apart. 

Depths  one-half  to  one  inch. 

Thin  to  three  inches  when  three  to  four  inches  hisrh. 

Gather  the  seed  when  ripe,  late  in  summer. 

ARNICA  {Arnica  montana).  Arnica  is  a  hardv, 
dwarfish,  perennial  herb,  grown  for  the  tincture  made 
from  its  leaves,  or  occasionally  from  its  roots,  used  as 
an  application  for  bruises,  or  internally  as  a  tonic. 
Arnica  is  propagated  by  seed  or  by  root-division.  In 
Europe  the  plant  is  called  Mountain  Tobacco  or 
Mountain  SnufF. 

Soil. — Any  garden  earth. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 
Thin  to  six  or  nine  inches. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  or  in  April  or  ]\Iav  under 
glass  or  in  a  protected  seed-bed.  Prick  out,  harden  off, 
and  set  out  when  frosts  are  past.  Thin  field-sown 
plants  when  well  up. 

Set  roots  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Pick  leaves  as  wanted.  For  winter  use  make  the 
tincture  and  keep  in  bottles. 

Protect  lightly  in  severe  climates. 

Renew  or  reset  when  the  plants  seem  weak. 

ARTICHOKE,  GLOBE  or  FRENCH.  A  perennial 
plant,  Cynara  scolymits.,  allied  to  the  thistle,  and  grown 


4  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

for  its  flower-heads,  which,  when  young,  are  picked  and 
cooked,  pickled,  or  (with  some  varieties)  eaten  raw. 
Plantations  should  be  renewed  every  two  to  four  years; 
in  fact,  for  the  most  prosperous  management  of  a  plan- 
tation, parts  of  it  should  be  renewed  yearly.  In  plant- 
ing, quickest  and  best  results  are  obtained  from  suck- 
ers; but  American   seedsmen  chiefly  offer  seed,  which 


Fig.  5.    Globe  Artichoke  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

does  not  always  come  true.  The  plant  is  hardy  but 
requires  protection  in  our  climate.  By  proper  manage- 
ment;  a  bed  will  yield  from  early  summer  until  frost. 
Chards,  properly  so  called  (see  Chard),  are  made  by 
blanching  the  large  leaves  of  the  plant ;  but,  as  this 
greatly  weakens  the  root,  it  is  best  done  on  plants 
which  are  not  expected  to  bear  again.  Varieties  (of 
which  few  are  offered  in  America)  differ  in  size,  color 
and  earliness.  No  serious  diseases  or  pests  are  re- 
ported. 

Soil  should  be  deep,  ricli,  moist  but  not  wet. 


ARTICHOKE  5 

Distances^  rows  three  to  five  feet  apart ;  plants  two 
to  four  feet  in  the  row,  according  to  variety. 

Depth,  one-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  seed  under  glass  in  March  or  April.  Pricked 
out  into  pots,  to  avoid  setting  back,  and  set  out-of- 
doors  when  frosts  are  past,  seedlings  should  give  edible 
heads  the  same  summer. 

Sown  outdoors  in  early  May,  either  in  Mils  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand  (distances  as  above,  five  or  six 
seeds  in  a  hill,  thin  to  one  in  a  hill)  or  in  a  seed-bed 
(drills  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart,  seeds  one-half 
inch  apart;  thin  to  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  when  well 
up),  and  transplanted  the  next  spring  to  their  perma- 
nent positions,  the  plants  will  not  give  edible  heads  till 
the  second  summer. 

Culture. — If  not  in  a  moist  place,  preserve  the  sur- 
face mulch  with  care,  and  water  in  drought. 

Fertilizing. — Beyond  regular  enriching  of  the  soil, 
no  special  fertilizer  is  required,  unless  plants  are  to  be 
brought  into  their  third  or  fourth  year,  when  they 
should  be  fed  heavily.  Seedlings,  and  old  plants  in 
spring,  respond  well  to  nitrate  of  soda  or  to  liquid 
manure. 

In  the  fall  of  the  first  year,  cut  down  the  plants,  and 
mulch  over  winter.  If  banked  with  earth,  protect  the 
heart  of  the  plant  from  dirt  by  tying  over  it  its  own 
leaves. 

Treatment  of  the  established  bed. — In  spring  uncover 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


each  plant,  and  dress  around  it,  if  possible,  with  ma- 
nure or  fertilizer.  When  the  shoots  start,  cut  out  (tak- 
ing with  each  a  part  of  the  root,  and  cutting  clean)  all 
but  the  best  three  or  four,  lea\  ing  these  to  make  the 

year\s    crop     without 
crowding. 

The  cuttings,  or 
suckers,  or  stools,  are 
used  to  make  new 
plants,  which  will 
give  edible  heads  be- 
fore fall.  Set  either 
at  the  above  dis- 
tances, or  in  a  seed- 
bed two  feet  by  one 
foot,  and  plant  out  in 
early  summer.  Set  the 
cuttings  a  little 
deeper  than  before, 
and,  if  they  have 
leaved  out,  trim  the 
leaves  back.  Protect 
against  early  frost 
and  drought. 
Picking. — The  heads  should  be  cut  before  they 
open  and  show  the  flower.  If  cut  too  late,  they  are 
tough  and  useless.  Even  if  not  wanted,  they  should  be 
cut  for  the  sake  of  later  heads.    Cut  the  stems  back  to 


Fig.  6.  Heads  of  Globe  Artichoke.  The 
edible  parts  are  the  base  of  the  head 
and  the  bottoms  of  the  large  leaves. 
One-half  natural  size. 


ARTICHOKE  7 

the  ground,  and  a  second  growth  is  possible  the  same 
season. 

The  management  of  the  bed,  if  well  done,  will  give 
a  continuous  supply  from  early  summer.  Take  cuttings 
at  the  opening  of  spring.  The  well-established  plants 
flower  first,  and  should  then  be  cut  back.  Other  strong 
plants,  if  cut  back  a  few  times  in  spring  (and  any  new- 
sprouts  cut  out),  will  flower  in  midsunnner,  and  by  the 
time  that  they  have  finished  the  cuttings  will  be  ready 
to  bear.  In  fall  will  come  the  second  crop  from  the 
early-bearing  plants. 

Chards  can  be  made  (preferably  from  old  plants)  by 
cutting  back  leaves  and  all  after  the  first  picking,  and 
when  the  large  leaves  have  well  started  again,  tying 
them  by  their  tips,  in  a  sheaf,  and  covering  all  but  the 
tips  M  ith  straw  or  hay,  which  is  held  in  place  by  tying 
and  with  a  little  earth.  The  leaves  will  be  properly 
blanched  in  about  a  month. 

In  the  fall  the  stems  and  large  leaves  of  old  plants 
should  be  cut  down,  the  smaller  leaves  tied  together 
over  the  heart  of  the  plant,  and  the  whole  mulched 
with  manure,  litter  or  earth. 

Reneiv  from  seed  or  by  cuttings.  Do  not  keep  plants 
after  their  fourth  year. 

Use. — The  bottoms  of  the  flower-heads  and  of  the 
large  outer  leaves  of  the  flowers  are  the  edible  parts. 
Of  Chards,  eat  the  midribs. 


8  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

ARTICHOKE,  JAPANESE  (or  CHINESE),  is  Stachys 
tuber  if  era,,  which  see. 

ARTICHOKE,  JERUSALEM.  A  tall  plant,  Helian- 
thus  tuberosus,  of  the  sunflower  family,  grown  for  its 
tubers,  from  which  (since  it  does  not  produce  seed  well 
except  in  warm  countries)  it  is  grown.    The  tubers  are 

gathered  in  the  spring  or 
fall;  left  in  the  ground  after 
the  second  spring  they  will 
sprout  and  become  trouble- 
Fig.  7.   Tuber  of  Jerusalem  Arti-    some,  but  can  be  eradicated 

choke.  One-fourth  natural  size.       ^y    swine  Or    by  cultivation. 

The  artichoke  will  grow  on  poor  land,  and  its  advan- 
tages should  be  more  generally  understood.  Of  equal 
value  with  the  potato  as  food,  the  Jerusalem  artichoke 
is  easier  to  cultivate  and  more  productive,  while  stalks, 
leaves  and  tubers  may  be  fed  to  stock.  No  choice  of 
varieties  is  offered  by  our  dealers,  but  there  are  im- 
proved French  and  Brazilian  strains.  Under  good 
conditions  (iOO  to  1,000  bushels  per  acre  have  been 
harvested.  Diseases  and  pests  are  seldom  trouble- 
some. 

Soil. — The  plant  will  grow  on  any  soil  that  is  not 
wet,  but  prefers  a  sandy  soil,  well  drained;  it  will  thrive 
on  a  poor  or  even  gravelly  soil,  but  if  fed  well  will 
repay  the  expense. 

Distances: — Rows  three  to  five  feet  apart;   plants 


ASPARAGUS  9 

in  the  row,  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  Or  plant  three 
by  three  feet. 

Depth,  two  inches. 

Plant  usually  whole  tubers,  or,  if  small,  two  or  three 
together.  If  the  tubers  are  large,  they  may  be  cut  to 
two  eyes.  Plant  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
or  set  out  in  the  fall. 

Culture. — After  a  few  early  cultivations,  the  plant 
will  usually  shade  the  ground  and  take  care  of  itself. 
For  best  results,  take  off  all  flowers. 

Harvesting. — The  plant  needs  a  season  of  five 
months,  to  which  slow  growth  has  been  ascribed  its 
power  of  resisting  drought.  Dig  when  the  tops  are 
dead,  taking  care  to  get  out  all  the  tubers.  Or  leave 
in  the  ground  over  winter,  and  dig  in  the  spring. 

Store  in  pits  with  less  protection  than  for  other 
root-crops.  In  cellars  keep  from  air  and  light  by  stor- 
ing in  sand,  as  the  artichokes  will  shrivel  and  turn 
black. 

Use  like  potato.  Vilmorin-Andrieux  recommends  it 
baked.    When  boiled  it  is  excellent  for  salads. 

ASPARAGUS  {Asparagus  qfficinaUs),  as  our  longest- 
lived  vegetable  (a  bed  is  expected  to  last  a  generation, 
and  an  English  bed  ninety  years  old  has  been  reported), 
repays  and  demands  much  care  in  its  early  stages. 
AVhile  it  requires  and  responds  to  heavy  feeding,  the 
old-time  methods  of  deep  trenching  and  heavy  manur- 


10  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

iiig  before  planting  have  been  proved  to  be  unnecessary, 
thus  putting  asparagus,  for  home  culture,  within  the 
reach  of  every  one  who  can  spare  the  space. 

The  habit  of  the  plant  is  curious.  Through  the 
summer  it  accumulates,  in  its  large  storage-roots,  the 
supply  of  energy  to  carry  it  through  the  heavy  cutting 
of  the  following  spring,  when  for  weeks  its  crown,  or 
central  portion,  makes  shoots,  only  to  have  them  cut 
as  fast  as  they  appear.  Its  storage-roots  lie  near  the 
crown ;  the  feeding  roots  branch  from  them  in  all  direc- 
tions and  go  to  considerable  distances.  These  feeding 
roots  were  formerly  supplied  with  a  great  store  of  food 
by  the  growers,  who  packed  manure  solidly  in  deep 
trenches  underneath  the  plants.  It  is  now  known  that 
manure  and  fertilizer,  worked  into  tlie  upper  few  inches 
of  the  ground,  are  enough  for  the  plant,  so  that  the 
heavy  initial  expense  of  setting  is  no  longer  under- 
taken. 

Asparagus  is  a  hardy  plant,  and,  though  originally 
found  near  the  seashore,  it  will  grow  on  many  soils.  It 
is  grown  from  seed,  which  by  the  old-time  careless 
methods  gave  fair  results.  The  method  of  deep  plant- 
ing, described  below,  is  best  for  the  home  garden,  as 
the  plants  are  more  vigorous  and  better  able  to  resist 
rust.  Thinning  should  l)e  carefully  attended  to,  for 
while  at  a  few  inches  the  tops  of  the  plants  will  not 
interfere,  at  nine  inches  the  roots  are  still  likely  to 
crowd.    Deep  planting  where  the  plants  are  to  stand 


ASPARAGUS 


n 


will  save  a  year  in  their  culture;  commonly,  however, 
the  plants  are  gro^\-n  in  a  seed-bed  for  their  first  year, 
to  save  space,  and  are  then  transplanted.  Transplanting 
from  the  seedbed  at  the  end  of  the  Jirst  year  is  advi- 
sable ;  it  has  been  proved  that  two-year  plants  (although 


■y.-. 


W 


V- 


Fig.  8.    Seedlings  of  Asparagus.    Natural  size. 

commonly  offered  for  sale  by  dealers)  in  the  long  run 
produce  less  than  yearling  plants.  (See  Farmers'  Bul- 
letin, No.  61.) 

The  setting  of  the  plants  should  be  carefullv  done. 
They  should  be  given  plenty  of  space  in  their  perma- 
nent positions;  three  feet  by  two  is  as  little  as  should 
be  given,  for  good  results,  since  in  a  few  years  the  roots 
will  fill  the  whole  space.  AVhile  for  commercial  planting 
the  roots  are  merelv  cast  into  furrows,  right  side  up, 


12  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

for  garden  practice  the  careful  setting  of  the  roots  in 
trenches  is  advisable.  The  depth  of  setting,  which 
formerly  was  as  much  as  eighteen  inches 
(delaying  the  start  in  spring  and  more  than 
doubling  the  length  of  each  shoot,  most 
of  which  was  wasted)  is  now  about  six  or 
eight  inches. 

Once  set,  the  plants  are  usually  allowed 
to  grow  for  two  years  before  cutting, 
although  even  then  the  cutting  in  the  third 
year  should  be  light.  It  is  possible,  how- 
ever, with  plants  sown  deep  and  not  trans- 
planted, to  take  a  light  cutting  in  the  third 
year  from  seed.  Cutting  should  never  be 
so  heavy  as  to  exhaust  the  plant ;  the 
rotation  described  below  is  advisable  for  all 
plantations  of  any  size,  and  the  cutting 
season  (which  commercial  growers  occasion- 
ally prolong  until  July)  is  best  finished 
soon  after  the  middle  of  June.  It  is  the 
habit  of  some  gardeners  to  stop  cutting 
Asparagus  when  the  first  green  peas  are 
ready  to  pick,  thus  allowing  one  delicacy 
to  supplant  another.  Blanching  for  cut- 
ting is  easily  done,  and  varies,  commer- 
cially, with  the  market  demand. 

The  number  of  roots  to  be  set  out  de- 
of  Asparagus     pends  upon  the  family  requirements.     Ma- 


ASPARAGUS  13 

ture  plants,  under  the  best  conditions,  will  sometimes 
yield  three  shoots  daily.  Shoots  counting  nine  to  the 
bunch  are  on  record.  It  is  safer,  however,  to  count  on 
two  shoots  to  the  plant,  twenty  to  the  bunch,  in  which 
case,  with  ideal  gardening  conditions,  ten  plants  will 
yield  a  bunch  a  day. 

But  in  setting  out  a  bed  it  must  be  remembered 
that  there  are  periods  of  immaturity  and  old  age  when 
the  yield  is  small,  so  that  it  would  be  wiser  to  count  on 
twenty  to  twenty-five  plants  to  the  bunch  as  an  average 
yield.  And  finally,  if  the  growing,  feeding,  and  care  of 
the  plants  are  not  to  be  of  the  very  best,  fifty  to  sixty 
plants  to  the  bunch  may  be  necessary. 

The  daily  yield  depends  much  upon  the  weather, 
cold  nights  often  temporarily  checking  growth. 

The  life  of  a  bed  depends  upon  the  feeding  of  the 
plants,  their  distance  apart,  and  the  severity  of  cutting. 
Good  commercial  growers  seldom  keep  a  bed  longer 
than  fifteen  years;  for  the  home  garden,  where  greater 
care  may  be  given,  and  the  cutting  is  moderate,  the 
plants  may  be  kept  considerably  longer,  or  say  twenty 
years,  in  good  bearing,  although  many  beds  of  much 
longer  life  are  known. 

The  replanting  of  a  bed  may  be  done  on  the  same 
ground,  by  taking  out  alternate  plants  or  rows  of 
plants  and  putting  in  new,  so  that  the  bed  will  still 
yield  a  small  crop. 

Varieties  of  Asparagus  are  few  and  not  very  sharply 


14  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

distinguished  ;  results  with  any  of  them  depend  largely 
upon  feeding,  culture,  and  protection  from  pests  and 
diseases.  It  is  claimed  that  the  Palmetto  and  Argen- 
teuil  best  resist  rust;  but  all  varieties  are  more  or  less 
susceptible  to  the  disease,  and  experiment  stations  are 
now  endeavoring  to  breed  rust-proof  kinds. 

Asparagus  pests  are  not  very  troublesome ;  they 
should,  however,  be  rigorously  suppressed,  as  by  weak- 
ening the  plants  they  make  them  less  able  to  resist  the 
rust.  This,  a  fungous  disease,  has  of  late  years  spread 
alarmingly  from  section  to  section,  until  in  places  it 
has  almost  exterminated  the  Asparagus  industry.  Its 
control  is  now,  however,  better  understood.  In  prac- 
tice, there  is  no  need  to  distinguish  between  the  forms 
of  rust. 

Soil. — Although  Asparagus  will  grow  on  any  soil 
that  is  not  actually  wet  or  very  stiff,  it  does  best  on 
sandy  soil,  well  drained.  A  heavy  land  should  be 
lightened  by  working  in  sand  or  sifted  coal  ashes;  if 
wet  it  should  be  underdrained.  For  its  preparation, 
see  below. 

Permanent  distances. — The  rows  should  not  be  less 
than  three  feet  apart;  four  feet  is  better;  for  field 
culture  five  to  six  feet  is  convenient.  Plants  in  the 
row  should  not  stand  closer  than  eighteen  inches;  two 
feet  is  better ;  three  feet  is  not  too  much.  In  fact,  up 
to  planting  four  by  five  feet,  Asparagus  plants  have 
not  too  much  space,  and  in  a  few  years  the  roots  will 


Plate  II.     Asparagus  Root 
In  its  trench,  staked  and  set,  ready  for  covering 


ASPARAGUS  15 

occupy  the  whole  of  it.  For  blanching,  the  rows  should 
not  be  closer  than  four  feet. 

From  seed. — A  gardener  who  wishes  the  best  results 
will  do  well  to  grow  his  own  plants.  Seed-bed  culture 
should  be  as  follows : 

Choose  rich,  Mell-drained  land  in  good  tilth  and 
freed  of  weeds  by  a  few  hoeings  ;  sow  the  seed  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  fit  if  necessary,  but  best  after  the 
weeds  have  sprouted  and  been  killed.    Soak  the  seed. 

Sow  the  seed  very  sparsely,  not  nearer  than  an 
inch  apart,  at  a  depth  of  an  inch  ;  rows  should  be 
eighteen  inches  or  more  apart.  As  soon  as  the  plants 
have  sprouted,  thin  to  as  nuich  space  as  can  be  given  to 
the  plants,  one  foot  if  possible.  Three  inches  apart  is 
the  least  space  that  should  be  given  in  the  seed-bed. 

Deep  planting  gives  much  better  results ;  on  the 
same  land  the  deep-sown  plants  have  in  the  same  season 
resisted  rust  for  some  weeks  later  than  the  shallow-sown. 
For  this  reason,  as  well  as  to  save  the  labor  of  trans- 
planting in  the  second  spring,  plants  should  be  sown 
where  they  are  to  stand,  if  the  space  can  be  spared. 
There  is  no  economy  in  not  giving  the  space,  as  deep- 
sown  plants  will  yield  a  light  cutting  in  the  third  year 
from  seed,  as  stated  above. 

By  this  method  sow  the  seed  in  trenches,  six  to 
eight  inches  below  the  surface  ;  cover  with  an  inch  of 
soil.  Sow  the  seeds  an  inch  apart,  or  sow  several  seeds 
near  each  other  at  the  permanent  distances.     Thin  to 


16  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

one  foot  if  possible  when  the  plants  have  well  started, 
or  to  one  plant  at  each  hill. 

Give  clean  culture  during  the  season,  gradually  fill- 
ing in  the  trenches  to  about  half  their  depth.  In  the 
fall  fill  them  completely.  For  the  sake  of  clean  culture 
it  is  possible  to  take  a  crop  of  low-growing  plants  be- 
tween the  Asparagus  in  the  first  year. 

By  this  method,  twice  as  many  plants  may  be  grown 
in  the  row  as  are  needed,  if  thinned  to  one  foot  apart. 
In  the  second  spring,  every  other  plant  may  be  dug  out 
without  injury  to  the  remainder.  The  lifted  plants  may 
be  set  in  another  row  ;  it  will  take  them  some  time  to 
catch  up  with  the  others,  which  will  yield  in  the  third 
spring,  while  the  transplanted  plants  should  not  be  cut 
until  their  fourth.  Of  either  set  of  plants  the  first 
cutting  should  be  very  light. 

Plants  grown  by  this  method  should  be  large  and 
vigorous  at  the  end  of  the  first  year,  fully  equal  in  size 
to  two-year  plants  grown  closely  together  by  ordinary 
seed-bed  methods. 

Thinning  is,  with  Asparagus,  a  difficult  matter;  it 
is  not  sufficient  merely  to  pull  the  tops.  The  crowns 
are  formed  almost  at  once,  each  with  a  single  storage 
root,  so  that  at  even  a  few  weeks  the  plants  are  able  to 
send  up  other  shoots  if  the  first  are  pulled.  It  is  there- 
fore necessary  that  the  crowns  should  be  pulled  with 
the  tops;  if  the  plants  grow  to  any  size,  the  crowns 
must  be  dug  out,  a  tedious  process. 


ASPARAGUS  17 

After  planting,  keep  the  ground  from  baking.  The 
seeds  are  of  very  slow  germination,  and  sometimes 
quick-germinating  seeds  are  sown  with  them  to  mark 
the  row.  These  should  be  sown  only  for  this  purpose, 
however,  very  thinly,  and  not  for  a  crop  ;  as  soon  as 
the  Asparagus  shows  the  other  plants  should  be  pulled, 
and  thinning  begun. 

Fo7'  the  first  year  feed  the  plants  well,  give  clean 
culture,  keep  free  of  pests,  spray  against  rust,  and  in 
the  fall  cut  down  the  tops  and  burn. 

Asparagus  under  glass. — Excellent  plants  for  the 
home  garden  may  be  raised  by  sowing  three  or  four 
seeds  in  four-inch  pots,  thin  to  one  in  a  pot;  or  by 
sowing  in  flats  and  carefully  pricking  out  into  pots. 
Harden  off  and  set  out  when  severe  frosts  are  over ; 
set  two  feet  by  eighteen  inches  for  transplanting  the 
following  year,  or  set  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
depth  six  to  eight  inches ;  fill  in  the  trenches  during  the 
summer. 

Carefully  selected  pot -grown  plants,  started  in 
March  and  set  out  in  May  at  full  depth,  as  here 
described,  will  give  quicker  results  than  any  other 
plants. 

Preparing  for  the  permanent  bed. — Make  the  soil 
as  good  as  possible,  in  richness  and  in  physical  texture. 
Use  old  manure  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent,  adding 
(to  make  it  a  complete  fertilizer)  per  ton  a  hundred- 
weight   of    Florida     superphosphate    and    thirty -five 


18  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABI^S 

pounds  of  muriate  or  high-grade  sulphate  of  potash  (or 
other  chemicals  supplying  the  same  amount  of  available 
phosphoric  acid  and  potash).  At  the  same  time  it  may 
be  remembered  that  Asparagus  may  be  raised  in  any 
ordinarily  rich  soil. 

The  soil  should  be  in  the  best  of  tilth  and  free  of 
weeds.  If  very  clayey,  it  would  be  well  to  work  in  a 
considerable  amount  of  sand  or  fine  coal-ashes.  If  acid, 
it  should  be  limed.  Subsoiling  is  not  necessary  except 
with  a  wet  soil;  but  in  case  of  a  high  water-table  it 
would  be  wise  to  under-drain. 

AVhere  there  is  a  choice,  the  land  should  have  a 
southerly  exposure,  and  in  any  case  should  be  open  to 
the  sun  all  day. 

In  buying  planU^  go  to  a  reputable  dealer,  and  if 
possible  to  one  in  the  immediate  neighborhood.  Get 
plants,  if  possible,  from  an  unrusted  field.  Onhj  year- 
ling plants  .should  he  used;  tests  have  proved  that  the 
future  yield  will  be  much  larger. 

Setting. — Furrows  should  be  made  eight  inches  in 
depth,  and  widened  at  the  bottom  to  about  a  foot.  In 
these,  at  the  required  distances,  the  roots  should  be 
placed  upon  little  hummocks  made  by  the  hand  and 
patted  firm.  The  depth  of  the  crowns  will  then  be 
about  six  to  seven  inches.  Spread  the  roots  out  evenly 
so  as  not  to  interfere  or  crowd,  and  cover  immediately 
with  about  three  inches  of  soil;  press  down  firmlv,  and 
scatter  a  little  earth  loosely  for  a  mulch.    A  pint  of 


ASPARAGUS 


19 


water  to  settle  the  earth,  and  allowed  to  drain  away 
before  firming,  will  be  beneficial.  (While  the  water  is 
draining,  a  second  plant  can  be  set,  covered  and 
watered.  Return  to  the  first,  firm  the  earth  and  mulch 
it;  set  a  third  plant  before  finishing  the  second.) 

Time  of  setting. — Fall  setting  is  occasionally 
practiced;  spring   setting   is   usual.     Set   in   the 
fall  when  the  tops  are  thor- 
oughly dry.    Set  in  spring 
as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
ground  is  fit. 

Before  setting,  the  plants 
should  he  Ixept  from  drying. 
— While  Asparagus  roots 
do  stand  much  neglect  when 
out  of  the  ground,  any  drying  is  to  their  detriment. 
Until  planting,  they  should  be  kept  moist;  if  raised 
at  home,  only  a  few  should  be  dug  at  a  time,  and  these 
should  be  covered  from  wind  and  sun,  carried  to  their 
permanent  positions,  and  set  at  once. 

Staking. — It  is  a  good  practice,  easily  followed  on 
small  areas,  to  stake  each  plant.  Set  inch  stakes  or 
strong  bamboos  before  covering  the  roots.  When  the 
tops  are  well  up,  tie  them  loosely  to  the  stakes,  and  tie 
again  as  they  grow.  The  wind,  moving  the  tops,  can- 
not loosen  the  crown  in  the  earth.  After  the  first  year 
staking  is  not  necessary,  except  in  exposed  situations 
where  the  wind  may  break  the  stalks. 


Fig.  10.    Asparagus  knife 
and  buncher. 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


Cidt'wation,  for  the  first  year,  consists  in  filling  in 
the  trenches  as  the  plants  grow,  if  possible  with  a  good 
compost,  until  in  late  fall  the  ground  is  level.  Water 
during  any  drought,  and  every  two  weeks  dress  lightly 
with  nitrate  of  soda,  or  water  with  liquid  manure. 
AVatch  closely  for  pests  and  rust,  and  treat  as  directed 
below.    For  fall  treatment,   see  Fall  ^Manuring. 

Let  the  transpanted  plants  grow  two  years  before  cid- 
ting.    Cut  earlier,  they  lose  vigor. 

Cutting  m  the  third  year,  if  done  at  all,  should  be 
for  not  more  than  two  weeks.    It  is  wiser  to  wait  until 

the  fourth  year.  Dur- 
ing the  fourth  spring, 
and  regularly  there- 
after, cut  clean,  allow- 
ing no  stalks  to  grow 
up  to  about  the  mid- 
dle of  June.  Some 
growers  cut  till  nearly 
the  first  of  July.  It  is 
a  good  practice  to  fol- 
low a  rotation  in  cut- 
ting, stopping  early 
each  year  on  various 
give  the  plants  a  rest. 
IMore  than  seven  weeks'*  cutting  is  never  advisable. 

Method  of  ndt'ing. — The  asparagus- knife  is  the 
usual  implement,  though  pocket-,  table-  or  pruning- 


Fig.  11.  Good  and  poor  methods  of  cutting 
Asparagus.  Thrust  the  knife  into  the 
ground  as  vertically  as  possible,  in 
order  not  to  injure  other  shoots  or  the 
crown. 

parts   of  the    plantation,    to 


ASPARAGUS  21 

knives  are  also  used.  Thrust  the  knife  into  the  ground 
beside  the  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  obhquely  as  low  as  pos- 
sible, taking  care  not  to  injure  other  shoots  or  the 
crown  of  the  plant.  Two  to  three  inches  below  ground 
is  usual. 

Cut  every  shoot^  whether  needed  or  not.  For  green 
asparagus,  the  shoots  are  commonly  cut  when  six  or 
seven  inches  above  ground.  For  blanched,  cut  the  shoot 
as  soon  as  it  appears,  first  removing  some  of  the  earth 
by  hand,  so  as  to  cut  eight  inches  or  more  belov/  the 
surface. 

Breaking  the  shoots  is  practiced  in  Europe,  parts  of 
England,  and  by  many  good  growers  in  America.  It  is 
the  best  method  in  home  gardens,  as  only  the  tender 
part  is  broken  off,  and  other  parts  of  the  plant  cannot* 
be  injured.  Break  the  shoots  off  squarely  as  low  down 
as  possible. 

Shallow  planting  (leaving  the  crowns  two  inches  deep) 
is  the  usual  method  in  France  (where  probably  is  grown 
the  best  Asparagus  in  the  world)  and  is  advocated  by 
some  in  England  and  America.  Its  great  advantage  is 
an  early  start  to  the  plants;  the  danger  in  the  method 
is  injury  to  the  crown  and  brittle  roots  by  cultivation. 
If  the  crowns  are  near  the  surface  the  shoots  must  be 
picked  by  hand :  by  a  gentle  twist,  or  by  thrusting  the 
finger  behind  the  base  of  the  shoot  and  pushing  gently 
outward  from  the  crown,  it  can  be  broken  from  its 
socket,  no  part  being  left  to  decay  in  the  ground.    If 


%%  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

shoots  of  any  length  are  required,  the  plants  must  be 
earthed  up  during  the  cutting  season. 

Blanching^  which  is  practiced  in  many  localities,  con- 
sists in  earthing  up  the  plants  a  foot  or  more.  The 
shoots  are  broken  or  cut  as  above. 

Fert'ilhing. — (1)  Fall  Manuring. — In  the  old  prac- 
tice, still  followed  by  many,  the  bed  is  manured  every 
fall.  As  many  commercial  growers  use  no  manure 
whatever,  it  is  evident  that  the  manure  is  not  needed  as 
a  protection,  even  for  shallow-planted  roots.  Much  of 
the  available  fertilizing  elements  is  lost  by  leaching. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  manure  helps  an  early  start  by 
preventing  deep  freezing.    Fresh  manure  may  be  used. 

(2)  Spring  and  summer  vmjiuring. — Manure  is,  how- 
ever, valuable  in  the  Asparagus  bed  for  its  humus  and 
its  physical  benefit  to  the  soil.  Early  spring  manuring, 
acting  as  a  mulch  and  keeping  the  ground  cool,  may 
delay  the  start  of  the  plants,  unless  the  manure  is  at 
once  worked  deeply  into  the  ground.  Manure  is  best 
applied  immediately  after  the  cutting  season,  and 
should  be  spread  between  the  rows,  rather  than  upon 
them,  as  thus  the  food  reaches  the  feeding  roots  rather 
than  the  heavy  storage  roots  surrounding  the  crown. 
The  manure  is  then  valuable  as  a  summer  mulch,  and 
should  not  be  worked  in  deeply;  a  mixture  of  cow 
and  horse  manure  is  preferred  by  some  growers.  Appli- 
cations may  be  heavy;  generally  speaking.  Asparagus 
will  take  twice  the  amount  of  fertilizer  usually  given 


ASPARAGUS  23 

to  root  crops.  (But,  against  this  practice,  see  under 
Cultivation  for  Rust.) 

(3)  Chemical  fertilizers  should  always  supplement 
manure,  in  the  proportion  per  ton  as  given  under  Pre- 
paring the  Permanent  Bed.    But 

Chemicals  may  be  used  without  manure,  mixed  in  the 
formula  4  per  cent  nitrogen,  8  per  cent  phosphoric  acid, 
10  per  cent  potash,  1,000  to  1,500  pounds  per  acre. 
Apply  this  before  setting,  and  each  spring,  with  an 
additional  top-dressing,  after  the  cutting  season,  per 
acre  at  least  250  pounds  nitrate  of  soda,  300  of  super- 
phosphates, and  the  equivalent  of  100  pounds  of  actual 
potash.  (Voorhees.)  Other  formulae  give  a  larger  per 
cent  of  potash.  A  good  spring  dressing  consists  of  450 
pounds  Peruvian  (Chincha)  guano  and  400  pounds 
muriate  of  potash  per  acre. 

Nitrogen  applied  in  April  will  benefit  the  season's 
crop  if  there  is  sufficient  rain  to  carry  the  food  to  the 
roots.  But  it  is  probable  that  nitrogen  is  best  dis- 
tributed through  the  year,  either  as  nitrate  of  soda 
or  as  liquid  manure. 

Manure  versus  chemicals  is  summarized  in  Farmers' 
Bulletin  No.  233 ;  "  If  the  land  is  in  good  condition  a 
well-balanced  commercial  fertilizer  may  produce  as  good 
yields  as  manure  and  be  cheaper."  Notice  the  if; 
manure  helps  to  keep  the  land  in  good  condition. 

Commoji  salt,  frequently  advocated,  is  never  to  be 
used  on  clay  soils,  and  in  general  its  value  is  not  proven. 


24  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

though  recent  Arkansas  experiments  are  in  its  favor. 
Kainit,  which  contains  potash  with  salt,  is  probably 
more  valuable. 

Berries  should  be  stripped  off  as  soon  as  set,  wher- 
ever practicable,  because  in  ripening  they  take  strength 
from  the  root,  they  harbor  the  twelve-spotted  beetle, 
and  if  they  ripen  and  fall  they  will  produce  troublesome 
"  volunteer  asparagus." 

Seed  may  be  raised  as  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  61. 

General  culture. — (1)  In  the  spring. — Cultivate  as 
thoroughly  and  as  deeply  as  possible  without  touching 
the  roots  or  the  crown.  Fertilize  as  above,  earth  up  if 
blanching  is  required. 

(2)  After  the  cutting  season,  cultivate  thoroughly, 
and,  if  the  plants  have  been  earthed  up,  level  off  the 
field.  Give  an  application  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid 
manure,  and  give  between  the  plants  and  not  over  the 
crowns  the  heaviest  general  dressing  of  the  year. 

(3)  In  the  fall. — Strip  off  the  berries  before  they 
ripen,  and  burn  them.  It  is  a  good  cleanly  garden 
habit  to  cut  the  tops  when  wholly  dead,  in  the  late  fall 
or  early  winter,  and  burn  them.  Good  commercial 
growers  now  leave  the  tops  for  winter  protection,  and 
harrow  them  into  the  ground  in  spring;  but  for  the 
garden  they  are  too  coarse  to  use  thus,  and  if  the  bed 
is  manured  in  the  fall  the  tops  are  not  needed  for 
protection.  All  sap  should  have  left  them  before 
cutting. 


ASPARAGUS  25 

Uncovering  the  crowns. — It  is  the  French  practice, 
to  uncover  the  crowns  in  the  fall  and  to  carefully  cut 
away  the  stems  left  from  the  season's  cutting.  This  is 
not  to  be  done  except  with  shallow-set  plants,  and  with 
the  greatest  care  not  to  injure  the  crowns.  It  is  some- 
times recommended  to  hoe  away  from  the  crowns,  in 
the  fall,  all  but  a  few  inches  of  soil,  to  give  the 
plants  an  early  start  in  the  spring.  Rather  than  have 
the  plants  winter -killed,  it  is  evidently  better,  for 
northern  culture,  to  hoe  away  the  earth  early  in  the 
spring  if  at  all,  and,  when  the  plant  has  well  started,  to 
gradually  work  the  earth  back  again  while  cultivating. 

Forcing, — (1)  Under  glass. — For  this  purpose  the 
roots  are  taken  up  in  the  fall,  allowed  to  freeze  but 
not  to  dry  out,  and  when  wanted  are  put  in  earth  in 
mild  hotbeds  or  in  greenhouses.  Cut  the  shoots  as  they 
grow ;  cover  fi'om  the  light  for  blanching.  The  best 
roots  for  this  method  are  three-year,  grown  three  feet 
by  two  feet,  and  not  transplanted;  they  are  useless 
after  forcing.  Ether  forcing  (see  under  Rhubarb) 
might  be  successful  here. 

(2)  In  the  field. — Half-barrels  may  be  placed  over 
the  plants  and  fresh  manure  piled  around  them;  or 
sashes  may  be  placed  above  the  plants,  which  for  this 
purpose  are  grown  closer  than  ordinary.  Elaborate 
systems  of  brick  trenches  between  the  rows,  with  open 
pipes  running  from  trench  to  trench,  are  used  abroad; 
manure  is  put  in  the  trenches  and  furnishes  the  heat. 


26  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

Or  steam  pipes  may  be  laid  underneath  or  alongside  the 
rows. 

These  methods  are  all  for  field -forcing  early  in  the 
spring.  Winter  forcing'  is  possible  in  houses  tempora- 
rily built  over  the  plants,  or  by  the  method  (of  doubt- 
ful profit)  described  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  84.  Here 
trenches  were  made  between  the  rows,  covered  with 
manure  and  boards,   and  steam    injected  at  intervals. 

Let  forced  plants  rest  for  a  year. 

Diseases. — The  rust,  a  fungous  disease,  is  a  serious 
enemy  to  Asparagus  over  a  widening  area.  Against  it, 
the  plants  should,  first  of  all,  be  kept  growing  vigorously 
by  feeding  well  and  by  cultivation. 

Cultivation  for  imst  is  now  considered  a  promising 
remedy,  and  recent  results  point  to  its  helpfulness.  By 
cultivating  every  week  or  ten  days,  the  spores  in  the 
ground  are  turned  to  the  surface,  germinate,  and  die. 
With  this  method,  summer  mulching  with  manure  is 
impossible. 

Wide  planting  for  rust  is  now  suggested,  so  that  the 
sun  and  the  wind  may  get  at  the  plants  and  the  earth. 
Set  the  plants  six  by  two  feet. 

Burning  the  tops  is  now  discarded  as  a  remedy  for 
rust.  If  the  tops  are  cut  before  their  fine  leaves  fall,  the 
roots  will  be  injured  by  the  loss  of  sap.  If  the  leaves 
are  allowed  to  fall,  they  will  put  so  many  spores  in  the 
ground  that  a  few  million  more,  from  the  stalks,  will 
make  no  difference. 


ASPARAGUS  27 

Spraying  for  rust  gives  some  promise  with  Bordeaux 
(1  to  8  formula,  40  gallons)  and  resin  solution  (resin 
five  pounds,  potash  lye  1  pound,  fish-oil  1  pint,  water 
5  gallons;  prepare  as  under  Cabbage  Pests.  Two 
gallons  of  this  mixed  with  8  gallons  of  Avater  should  be 
added  to  the  Bordeaux).  Or,  instead  of  resin  solution, 
use  resin  soap.  (Dissolve  7  pounds  sal-soda  in  4  to  5 
gallons  of  water,  and  boil;  add  10  pounds  resin,  and 
continue  boiling  until  (about  a  half-hour)  the  resin  is 
completely  dissolved ;  the  result  is  a  yellow  soap  in  the 
bottom  and  a  clear  liquid  above.  Pour  off  the  liquid 
and  save  the  soap.  For  use,  dissolve  2  pounds  of  the 
soap  in  10  gallons  of  water  and  add  to  the  Bordeaux 
as  above,  40  gallons.)  For  experiment  and  special 
sprayer,  see  New  York  Agricultural  Experiment  Sta- 
tion Bulletin,  No.  188. 

Sulphur  treatment  for  rust  (see  California  Bulletin, 
No.  165)  is  valuable  chiefly  in  the  Californian  climate. 
Sow  flowers  of  sulphur  when  the  dew  is  on  and  the  air 
quiet. 

Against  anthracnose^  ^pplj  Bordeaux.  Other  Euro- 
pean fungous  diseases  have  not  yet  reached  America. 

Pests  are  the  two  Asparagus  beetles, — the  common 
and  the  twelve-spotted.  Against  them:  (1)  Poultry. 
(2)  During  cutting  season  leave  scattered  shoots  to 
grow  as  traps.  Kill  with  insecticide,  or  cut  down  and 
burn.  (3)  After  cutting  season,  or  on  young  plants, 
dust  fresh  air-slaked  lime  or  arsenites,  or  both,  on  the 


28  THE   BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

plants  while  the  dew  is  on.  Repeat  whenever  larvae 
reappear.  (4)  In  hot  weather,  shake  or  brush  the  larvae 
from  the  plants;  they  will  die  on  the  hot  earth.  (5) 
Against  twelve  -  spotted  beetle,  pick  off*  the  young 
berries  and  burn. 

The  lady-bug,  the  two  soldier-bugs,  and  various 
wasps  and  dragon-flies,  prey  on  the  common  beetle. 
The  Asparagus  fly,  a  European  pest,  has  not  yet 
appeared  here. 

For  the  Asparagus  Miner,  which  works  underground, 
no  remedy  is  as  yet  known.  The  pest  does  no  great 
harm. 

Storing  of  Asparagus  may  be  done  by  canning  or 
by  drying.  Can  as  directed  in  the  cook-books.  Stalks 
of  uniform  sizes  may  be  strung  and  hung  in  the  sun,  or 
dried  over  the  stove.  Keep  in  a  dry  place,  and  when 
wanted  for  use  soak  and  cook. 

AUBERGINE.    See  Eggplant. 

BALM  {Melissa  officinalis)  is  a  perennial  plant,  raised 
from  seed,  slips  or  root-divisions,  and  grown  for  its 
leaves,  which  are  used  in  seasoning  and  for  scents, 
and  for  Balm  tea  and  Balm  wine.  The  taste  is  like 
lemon. 

Soil  should  best  be  light  and  warm. 

Sow  in  spring  in  seed-bed,  thinly,  one-half  to  one 
inch  deep,  and  transplant  to  one  by  two  feet.    Or  sow 


BALM— BASIL  29 

thinly  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  rows  two  feet 
apart,  and  when  well  up,  thin  to  one  foot. 

Set  roots  or  slips  one  by  two  feet,  in  spring. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted,  after  the  plants  are 
well  established.  For  tea  and  wine,  use  the  tender 
stalks  as  well  as  the  leaves.  Cut  down  the  whole 
plant  in  the  fall;  leaves  and  stalks  may  be  dried  for 
winter  use. 

Renew  as  the  plants  show  less  vigor. 

BASIL,  or  Sweet  Basil  (Ocimum  basilicum),  is  an 
annual  herb,  the  leaves  of  which  are  used  in  seasoning, 
tasting  of  cloves.  The  several  varieties  mentioned  by 
European  writers  are  seldom  offered  here. 

Soil,  a  warm  light  loam,  well  enriched. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart;  plants  six  to  eight 
inches  in  the  rows. 

Sow  under  glass  in  April;  prick  out  or  pot.  Set 
outdoors  when  frosts  are  past.  Or  sow  in  the  open 
ground  late  in  May,  thinly. 

Depth,  one-half  to  one  inch. 

Thin  or  transplant  to  the  above  distances. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  shoots  as  required.  "WTien  in 
bloom,  cut  the  whole  plant  and  dry  in  the  house.  Cut 
again  in  fall. 

Potting. — Basil  may  be  potted  and  kept  in  a  warm 
room,  where  it  will  yield  through  the  winter. 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


.  12.  Types  of  Beans,  natural  size.  a.  Broad  Beans,  b. 
Kidney  Beans,  c.  Limas.  d.  Dolichos  Beans,  e.  Soy 
Beans,  f.  Scarlet  Runner. 


BEANS  are  legumi- 
nous   plants    of    allied 
genera,  most  important 
in   garden  culture,  fall- 
ing into  classes  requir- 
ing  somewhat    different    hand- 
ling.    ]\Iost   of   them    are    very 
tender  to  frost,  and  some  do  not 
do  well  in   our  climate, 
— the  Windsor  because 
^  the  summer  is  too  hot, 
the  Lima  because  it  is 
too  short.   They  are  all, 
however,    cultivable    in 
the  North  under  proper 
conditions,  and    are   indispen- 
sabJe.    Certain    of  them,  such 
as  the  Scarlet   Runner  and 
the    Dwarf    Limas,    should 
be    better    known,   as    giv- 
ing gi'eater  variety. 

For  culi- 
nary pur- 
poses, Beans 
divide  into 
two  classes, 
— the  edible- 
podded    and 


BEANS  31 

the  tough-podded,  or  shell  Beans.  The  edible-podded 
are  eaten,  pods  and  all,  before  the  Beans  are  full 
grown;  they  are  commonly  called  snap  or  string 
Beans,  but  the  "strings"  are  undesirable,  and  should 
develop  only  as  the  pods  grow  old.  In  the  best  varie- 
ties, the  young  pods  are  thick  and  easilv  break  clean 
across.  The  shell  Beans  are  eaten  ^^'hen  full-grown  but 
before  they  dry.  Snap  Beans,  when  mature,  are  often 
used  as  shell  Beans.  Of  both  kinds  the  seed  can  be 
left  to  ripen  on  the  vines,  and  when  dry  can  be  picked, 
shelled  and  stored  for  winter  use. 

General  rules,  applicable  to  the  culture  of  all  Beans, 
are  here  given. 

Do  not  biiish  against  the  vines  when  they  are  wet. 

Fertilizer. — A  general  fertilizer  for  Beans  should 
contain  chiefly  potash  and  phosphoric  acid.  Beans  get 
most  of  their  nitrogen  from  the  air,  and  if  over-stimu- 
lated will  run  to  vine;  but  a  little  nitrogen  should  be 
either  in  the  fertilizer  or  else  applied  alone  before 
sowing  or  just  after  the  seedlings  appear  above  ground. 
On  unmanured  soil,  a  fertilizer  with  available  per  cents 
of  nib'ogen  1.3,  phosphoric  acid  8.7,  potash  12.5,  may 
be  recommended. 

Soils  vary  somewhat  according  to  the  kind  of  Bean, 
the  Lima  requiring  the  lightest,  the  Windsor  doing 
better  on  heavier  land.  Generally  speaking,  soil  for 
Beans  should  not  have  been  freshly  manured,  even  with 
well-rotted  manure;  compost  is  much  to  be  preferred. 


32  THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

Diseases. — For  anthracnose,  buy  sound  seed,  avoid 
low,  damp  ground,  pick  and  burn  all  diseased  plants. 
Spray  with  Bordeaux  (weak,  containing  1.5  per  cent  of 
copper  sulphate)  and  keep  the  foliage  covered  with  it. 
Or  spray  with  sulphur  in  water.  For  rust,  Bordeaux. 
For  Lima-blight,  spray  with  "some  clear  copper  com- 
pound'" (Lodeman)  two  or  three  times  before  the  dis- 
ease is  expected. 

Pests. — If  the  weevil  attacks  the  plant,  treat  the 
seed,  as  soon  as  picked,  with  bisulphide  of  carbon  in  a 
closed  vessel;  give  two  or  three  applications  three  to  four 
weeks  apart.  Or  heat  to  145°  Fahr.  for  an  hour.  Seed 
so  treated  may  be  safely  sown.  Destroy  all  rubbish  of 
the  patch,  especially  all  unused  seed.  Sow  none  but 
seed  free  of  the  pest;  or  sow  in  the  drills  sifted  coal 
ashes,  or  sand  saturated  with  carbolic  acid.  Scatter 
suspected  seed  lightly  in  water  before  sowing,  and 
reject  all  that  floats. 

For  leaf-beetle,  hand-picking,  pyrethrum,  arsenical 
sprays,  clean  culture. 

For  blister-beetles,  spray  at  their  first  appearance 
with  Paris  Green  mixed  with  ten  to  twenty  parts  of 
flour  or  air-slaked  lime  or  plaster,  or  with  ten  gallons 
Bordeaux  or  whitewash  to  an  ounce  of  the  poison. 
When  the  beetles  come  in  numbers,  catch  in  butterfly- 
nets  or  drive  before  the  wind  into  a  windrow  of  straw  or 
rubbish,  and  burn.  Or  beat  into  pans  containing  kero- 
sene or  coal-oil.    Act  promptly. 


BEANS 


33 


For  Bean  lady-bird,  Paris  Green  with  lime  as 
above,  or  kerosene  emulsion,  as  an  underspray.  For  all 
caterpillars,  arsenites,  hand  picking.  For  boll-worm, 
arsenites,  late  plowing. 

If  arsenites  are  used  with  string  beans,,  wash  the  pods 
carefidly  before  cooking. 

Varieties  of  Beans  are  innumerable.  For  cultural 
purposes  they  divide  into    the    classes    which    follow. 


Fig.  13,    Seedlings  of  Broad  Bean.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

Except  the  broad  Bean,  they  are  all  tender  to  frost. 
The  only  perennial  is  the  Scarlet  Runner.  The  pods  of 
the  best  snap  Beans  are  waxy  in  texture,  green  or  yellow 
in  color.    Shell  Beans  are  frequently  mottled. 

(1)    The  Broad  Bean  {Vicia  Faba),  a  shell  Bean,  of 
which  the  best  known  type  is  the  Windsor  Bean,  is  the 


34  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Bean  of  the  ancients,  still  grown  in  Europe,  but  little 
adapted  to  our  dry,  hot  summers,  since  it  needs  a  long, 
cool  season.  It  is  a  very  hardy  plant,  and  in  mild 
climates  the  seed  may  be  left  in  the  ground  over  winter. 
The  Broad  Beans  are  not  offered  by  all  American  seeds- 
men, and  only  the  more  progressive  dealers  offer  any 
variety,  of  which  the  chief  classes  are  tall  and  dwarf. 
While  this  Bean  may  be  grown  in  some  parts  of  the 
country,  in  general  it  cannot  compare  with  the  Lima. 

Soil. — Any  good  soil,  preferably  a  moist  deep  loam, 
not  over-rich  in  nitrogen. 

Distances. — Drills  apart  two  to  three  feet,  according 
to  variety.  Seed  in  the  row  three  to  four  inches. 
Hills  of  tall  varieties,  four  by  four  feet;  six  to  eight 
seeds  in  the  hill. 

Depth  should  be  two  inches  in  the  early  season, 
three  inches  later. 

Thin  hills  to  three  or  four  plants. 

Solving. — Soak  the  seed  for  earlier  sprouting.  For 
an  especially  early  crop.  Broad  Beans  were  formerly 
sown  in  the  fall.  It  is  better  to  so^v  under  glass  in  Feb- 
ruary and  plant  out  when  well  hardened  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  fit.  Sow  outdoors  in  early  spring,  and  earth 
up  slightly  against  late  frosts. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  moisture  of  a  shallow  soil, 
and  water  in  a  drought.  Tall  varieties  should  be  given 
support.  When  well  in  flower,  pinch  off*  the  ends  of 
the  plants  if  they  are  growing  fast. 


BEANS 


35 


Pick  when  the  Beans  are  full-sized,  but  before  the 
pods  dry. 

Fertilize  as  above. 

Succession.  —  Start  the  first  crop  under  glass,  as 
above ;  sow  the  second  when  the  ground  is  fit.  Of  this 
second  sowing,  cut  back  a  part  just  before  flowering 
and  they  will  yield  later.  Cut  back  other  plants  after 
cropping,  and  they  will  give  a  second  sparser  crop  in 
the  fall. 


.— %>- 


Fig.  14.    Seedlings  of  Kidney  Bean.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

(2)  Kidney  Beans  {Pliaseolus  vulgaris)  include  most 
of  our  field,  bush  and  pole  Beans,  of  which  some  are 
edible -podded  and  some  are  not.  All  are  tender  to 
frost,  but  the  bush  Beans  are  both  earlier  and  later 
than  the  pole  Beans.  Culture  under  glass  is  unusual 
with  us,  but  it  is  coming  more  into  use,  especially  for 
starting  the  early  crop.  Varieties  are  very  many,  and 
may  be  used  to  give  a  succession.    For  cultural  purposes, 


36  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

kidney   Beans   are   here  divided   into    dwarf  and   pole 
Beans. 

(a)  Dwarf,  or  Bush  Beans. — Hardier  and  earlier, 
of  short  season  and  requiring  no  training. 


I  'j>  ^"j:-r'TT^ 


nr "' 


''tvk; 


S^ift^ 


Fig.  15.    Whole  plant  of  Dwiarf  Kidney  Bean. 

Soil  should  be  light  and  in  good  tilth,  not  recently 
manured. 

Rows  should  be  two  feet  apart. 

Depth,  in  summer,  three  inches;  in  spring,  about 
two  inches. 

Sow  under  glass  about  the  middle  of  April;  prick 
out  into  pots,  and  set  in  the  open  when  frosts  are  over. 
Or  sow  in  pots,  three  to  a  pot,  and  thin  to  one. 

Sow  outdoors  about  the  second  week  in  ]\Iay,  and  be 
ready  to  protect  against  late  frosts.  Seeds  one  inch 
apart.    There  is  no  advantage  in  sowing  eye  down. 


BEANS 


37 


Thin  to  about  four  inches,  or  else  to  clumps  of  three 
or  four  plants  one  foot  or  more  apart. 

Culture. — Do  not  touch  the  plants  when  wet.  A 
straddle-row  cultivator,  brushing  the  tops  of  a  yoimg 


^^-^'^mm 


!.VV>:-^^ 


"1 


Fig.  16.    Another  type  of  Dwarf  Kidney  Bean. 

row  after  a  rain  or  while  the  dew  is  on,  will  practically 
ruin  the  crop. 

Fe?iilize  as  in  opening  section. 

Picking  begins  according  to  the  kind  of  Bean,  from 
forty-five  days  on,  the  string  Beans  being  earliest.  Pick 
string  Beans  when  they  are  large  enough  for  use,  shell 
Beans  before  they  dry  and  harden,  but  at  full  size. 


38 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


Sicccession. — Bush  Beans,  especially  the  string  Beans, 
are  long  yielders,  bearing  from  six  weeks  to  two  months 
under  the  best  conditions.  Successional  sowings  need  not, 
therefore,  be  much  oftener  than  three  weeks,  to  come 
into  bearing  about  the  time  the  older  plants  begin  to 
yield  less.  Shell  Beans  oftener,  about  every  two  weeks. 
The  last  sowing  should  be  about  the  first  of  August; 
later  ones  must  run  the  risk  of  frost. 

Protection. —  Dwarf  beans  can  be 
carried  through  the  early  light  frosts 
with  coverings  of  cloths. 

{h)  Pole,  or  Running  Beans. — 
These  are  later  than  the  bush  Beans, 
and  are  both  more  tender  to  frost  and, 
on  account  of  their  method  of  train- 
ing, harder  to  protect.  Pole  Beans  are 
seldom  planted  for  more  than  one  crop, 
as  their  yield  is  later,  and,  properly  fed 
and  picked  clean,  they  will  usually  last 
till  frost. 

Soil  should  be  warmer  than  for  bush 
Beans,  but  not  recently  manured.  A 
shovelful  of  good  compost  in  each  hill 
will  give  the  necessary  humus. 

Distances. — Hills    should    be    four 
Pods  of  Snap  or     leet  or  more  each  way. 

string  Bean.  The  t\      ^i        \        i.    x  •       u 

good  modern  Deptli^  about  two  mches. 

strings.  ^^^^^  "°  "^^"^  unclcr  glass  for  an  early  crop 


BEANS  39 

about  the  same  time  as  bush  Beans,  and  set  out  three 
in  a  hill  when  frosts  are  past.  Sow  in  flats  and  prick 
out  into  pots,  or  three  in  a  pot  and  thin  to  one. 


Fig.  18     Types  of  Shell  Bean. 

Sow  outdoors  a  week  or  more  later  than  bush  Beans. 
Plant  six  or  more  in  a  hill,  two  inches  deep,  setting  the 
seed  eye  down. 

Thinning. — Thin  to  three  in  a  hill. 

Culture. — Do  not  brush  against  the  plants  or  pick 
when  they  are  wet. 

Fertilizer. — A  little  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure 


40 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


in  each  hill  will  help  the  plant  to  a  quick  start.  The 
quantity  should  be  small  and  not  repeated.  Apply  as 
soon  as  the  seedlings  appear,  but  not  upon  them. 

Poles  or  Trellises  should  be  set  before  the  seed  is 
sown.  Single  poles  should  be  stout  and  deeply  set, 
trellises  according  to  the  ingenuity  of  the  gardener. 


/rs:^ 


Fig.  19.    Seedlings  of  Lima  Bean.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

Pick  as  for  bush  Beans.  With  all  kind  of  beans, 
clean-picking  will  lengthen  the  yield. 

Row  culture  for  pole  Beans  is  practicable  but  not 
usual.    See  under  Scarlet  Runner  Bean,  below. 

(3)  Lima  Beans. — Li  mas  (Phaseolus  lunatus)  divide 
into  pole  and  bush  varieties,  for  the  management  oi 
which  see  above,  with  minor  differences  as  here  noted. 
While  the  dwarfs  are,  as  usual,  earlier  than  the  stan- 
dards, Limas  come  slowest  to  maturity  of  all  our  beans, 
and  at  the  same  time  are  the  most  affected  by  our  hot, 
dry  summers.    Early  starting  under  glass  (see  above) 


BEANS 


41 


ought  to  assure  a  crop,  even  of  the  large  Limas,  in  our 
more  northern  states,  in  which,  however,  the  small 
Limas  are  most  advisable.  The 
small  Limas  are,  in  fact,  almost 
in  a  class  by  themselves. 

Limas  divide  into  types  as 
follows:  (1)  The  large  true 
Limas,  needing  a  long  season 
and  especially  tender  to  frost. 
The  dwarf  of  this  is  Burpee's 
Bush  Lima.  (2)  The  potato  / 
Lima,  not  so  late  and  more  Fig.20.  Th^reety^^Poie 
hardy.     The    dwarf   is    Dreer's        nrrli?iL"."F"oS"i^.?iS 

Tii.cl^  T  ^w.^      ra\  T"!  11  T  •  x'^^^  ^^^  ^^^  Sieva.  True  or 

rJUSh  JLima.    {6)  ihe  small  Luna,  Large  Lima,  Potato  Lima. 

or  Sieva  bean,  earlier  and 
hardier,  more  resistant  to 
drought,  as  well  as  a  heavier 
yielder  than  the  other  two. 
Of  all  Limas  this  is  the  best 
for  our  northern  states.  The 
dwarf  is  Henderson's  Bush 
Lima,  which  is  hardier  to 
drought  and  frost  than  some 
of  the  kidney  beans.  Limas 
need  special  conditions,  as 
follows : 

Soil  should   be  especially 
sunny  and  early.    Manuring, 


Fig.  21.  Pods  of  the  True  or  Large 
Lima  Bean.  One-third  natu- 
ral size. 


42 


THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


if  any,  should  have  been  done  in  the  previous  year. 
Apply  nitrogen  for  a  quick  start,  but  not  afterward, 
and  in  the  hills  of  the  tall  varieties  put  compost,  to 
retain  the  moisture.  Give  com- 
mercial fertilizers  rich  in  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid. 

Plant  pole  Limas  eye 

down,  depth  two  inches. 

Distances,      culture,      poles, 

thinning  and  picking  as  for 

kidney  beans,  above. 

Midch  the  dwarfs,  to  keep 
the  pods  from  the  ground. 
Dried  pods  can  be  picked, 
and  the  beans  kept  for  ^vin- 
ter  use. 

(4)  The  Dolichos  Bean  in 
its  varieties  (one  a  dwarf,  the 
best -known  the  Asparagus 
and  Yardlong  beans)  are  lit- 
tle offered  bv  our  seedsmen. 
The    chief  interest   in    these 

Fig.  22.  Henderson's  Dwarf  Lima    ^^^j^g    ^^  ^heir  very  loug,  edi- 
Bean.  Tlie  best  Lima  for  north-  -'  ^' 

ern  culture.  ble  pods ;  they  are  not  in  any 

way  superior  to  the  common  string  beans. 

Culture  is  the  same  as  for  kidney  beans. 

(5)  The  Soy  Beau,  or  Soja  Bean  {Glijcbie  h'lspkla), 
grown  chiefly  as  a  forage  plant,  may  be  used  as  a  shell 


BEANS 


43 


bean,  cultivated  like  the  Dwarf  Kidney  Bean,  which 
see.  It  is  hardy,  vigorous,  and  free  of  diseases  and  pests. 
The  beans  are  cooked  when  tender,  or  may  be  dried  and 

S2 


Fig.  23.    Dolichos  Sesquipedalis,  or  Yardlong  Bean. 

stored,  in  which  case  a  long  soaking  is  necessary  before 
cooking. 

(6)  The  Scarlet  Runner  Bean  (Phaseolus  mult'iflorus) 
is  offered  by  most  of  our  seedsmen,  and  its  popularity 
is  increasing.  A  pole  bean,  it  is  eaten  either  with  its 
pods  or  without;  in  the  former  case  it  is  picked  quite 
young,  before  the  seeds  have  well  formed.  Its  require- 
ments and  culture  are  the  same  as  of  pole  beans,  above. 
A  succession  may  be  maintained  by  pinching  in,  topping 
a  few  plants  to  force  an  early  fruiting,  and  taking  the 
first  blossoms  from  others  for  a  late  crop.  In  England 
the  Scarlet  Runner  is  a  popular  vegetable,  and  in  its  sea- 
son is  preferred  to  the  common  string  bean. 

From  roots. — This  bean  being  a  perennial,  its  tuber- 
ous roots  can  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  kept  over 
winter  in  sand  in  a  frost-proof  cellar.   Planted  out  after 


44  THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

the  middle  of  May,  they  will  give  an  extra-early  crop. 
Or  they  may  be  left  in  the  ground,  well  mulched,  and 
will  bear  a  mild  winter.  Plants  raised  from  seed  bear 
a  heavier  crop,  but  the  roots  yield  earlier. 

Pole  culture  is  like  that  of  kidney  beans. 

Row  culture  consists  in  setting  the  roots,  or  sowing 
the  seed,  in  rows  four  feet  apart.  Thin  to  one  foot 
apart  in  the  row,  and  train  on  strong  brush,  wire,  or 
trellises.    Pinch  back  the  ends  of  the  vines. 

The  roots  of  the  Scarlet  Runner  are  poisonous. 

BEET.  Beets  {Beta  vulgarw)  are  biennials,  grown 
as  annuals  for  their  tops  (as  "greens"')  and  for  their 
thickened  roots.  They  are  hardy  to  frost  and  of  easy 
culture.  They  divide  into  classes  according  to  color 
(red  or  yellow),  but  practically  as  to  shape  into  the  old 
long  Beet  and  the  turnip-shaped  Beet.  The  long  Beet 
requires  the  whole  season  for  its  growth;  the  turnip 
Beet  matures  in  two  months  or  less.  For  Chard,  which 
is  botanically  a  Beet,  see  under  its  name.  Of  foliage 
Beets,  usually  grown  for  ornament,  some  may  be  used 
as  vegetables.  Pests  are  few;  scab  is  the  most  serious 
disease. 

Soil  should  be  rich  and  moderately  light  for  turnip 
Beets.  For  the  long  Beets  it  should  also  be  deep  and 
not  recently  manured,  and  well  pulverized. 

Distances'. — Drills  may  be  as  close  together  as  a 
foot;  the  seed  should  be  scattered  thinly.    These  seeds 


BEET 


45 


are  really  fruits,  containing  several  true  seeds,  so  that 
the  Beets  come  up  in  little  clumps. 

Depth.— An  inch  in  spring,  two  inches  in  summer 
when  the  ground  is  drier. 

Sowing,— Time  may  be  gained  by  soaking  the  seed 
over  night.  Sow  turnip  Beets  as  early  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked,  and  for  succession  every  two  weeks  up 


Fig.  24.    Beet  seedlings.     Natural  size. 

to  the  end  of  July.  North  of  New  York  City,  later  plant- 
ings will  yield  greens,  but  no  Beets,  unless  the  fall  is  late. 
Further  south,  planting  is  possible  through  August. 

Sow  the  long  Beets  early  in  May.  As  they  require 
about  five  months  in  which  to  mature,  successional 
sowings  are  not  advantageous. 

Thinning. — The  best  of  Beets  are  to  be  got  from  two 
thinnings,  the  first  (when  about  five  inches  high)  to 
three  inches,  the  second  to  six  inches.  The  thinnings 
are  to  be  eaten  as  greens;  with  the  second  thinnings 


46 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


there  will  be  young  Beets  which,  when  cooked  and 
served  with  the  greens,  are  delicious. 

Transplantbig. — Some  growers  transplant  the  thin- 
nings, but  generally  it  is  not  profitable. 

FertUize?\ — For  turnip  Beets,  well -rotted  manure 
can  be  worked  into  the  ground.  Commercial  ferti- 
lizers should  be  added,  rich  in  potash  (20  per  cent) 
and  with  6.4  per  cent  nitrogen.  Without  manure,  use 
the  formula  nitrogen  5.8  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid  4.2 
per  cent,  potash  10  per  cent.    Nitrate  of  soda,  400  to 


Fig.  25.    Beets,  the  long  type. 

700  pounds  per  acre,  in  four  applications — one  soon 
after  planting,  and  the  others  a  week  apart — has  given 
good  results,  mainly  in  earliness. 

Storage. — In  pits,  or  in  sand  in  the  cellar. 

Beets  U7uler  glass. — Beets  can  be  grown  entirely 
under  glass,  but  it  is  seldom  done.    For  an  especially 


BEET 


47 


early  crop,  Beets  are  sometimes  started  under  glass  and 
transplanted,  but  better  results  come  from  starting 
them  in  frames,  whether 
hot  or  cold,  and  allowing 
them  to  mature  there. 

Diseases. — For  leaf  dis- 
eases, spray  with  Bordeaux; 
pick  and  burn  diseased 
leaves.  Avoid  scab  by  not 
planting  Beets  after  pota- 
toes. Against  rot  of  stored 
Beets,  rotation ;  remove  all 
spotted  leaves. 

Pests. — For  flea-beetle, 
white  grubs,  and  cut- 
worms, see  under  cabbage. 
For  most  beetles,  use  arsen- 
ites,  with  or  without  Bor- 
deaux. For  tarnished 
plant-bug,  leaf-hoppers,  or 
plant-lice,  use  kerosene  enmlsion  diluted  five  to  ten  times. 
For  grasshoppers,  set  out  poisoned  baits.  For  web- worm, 
underspray  with  Paris  green  and  lime,  mixed  as  for 
flea-beetle;  fall  plowing,  which  is  also  a  remedv,  and 
the  only  one,  for  the  leaf-miner.  For  blister-beetles,  see 
under  bean.     If  arsenites  are  used,  do  not  eat  the  leaves. 


Fig.  26.     An  early  type  of 
the  Turnip  Beet. 


BEET  ROOT.    See  Beet. 


48  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

BEET,  SUGAR.  Sugar  Beets  are  seldom  used  for  the 
table.  If  they  are,  they  should  be  picked  when  young. 
Thev  are  to  be  treated  in  every  way  like  Beets,  but 
given  more  space,  the  rows  should  be  eighteen  inches  or 
more  apart;   thin  to  nine  to  twelve  inches  in  the  rows. 

BEET. — For  Silver,  Leaf,  Kale,  Sea-Kale,  Spinach  or 
Asparagus  Beet,  see  Chard. 

BENE  (Ses'amum  orientale)  is  a  very  tender  annual 
plant,  seldom  grown  in  the  North.  Commercially,  it 
yields  oil  of  sesame,  used  for  the  skin,  or  in  the  East 
for  cooking.  In  domestic  medicine,  the  leaves  are 
steeped,  giving  a  mucilaginous  infusion  used  foi  diar- 
rhoea or  dysentery,  especially  of  children. 

Soil  light  and  quick. 

Distances.  —  Eighteen  inches  in  the  row,  plants 
twelve  inches  apart. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April;  prick  out,  and 
set  in  the  open  when  frosts  are  past. 

Culture  should  be  good ;   water  in  a  drought. 

Pick  the  whole  plant  in  the  fall,  or  the  leaves  as 
wanted. 

BONESET.    See  Thoroughwort. 

BORAGE  {Borago  officinalis),  a  very  pretty  annual, 
is  grown  for  its  young  leaves,  used  in  salads  and  for 
making    claret    cup,  and    occasionally  as   a   pot-herb. 


BORAGE — BROCCOLI  49 

Worth  growing  for  its  flowers  alone,  as  a  vegetable  or 
herb  it  has  not  come  into  general  American  use,  and  is 
offered  by  few  seedsmen.  It  has  no  varieties,  and  is  not 
troubled  by  pests  or  diseases. 

Soil  should  preferably  be  light,  but  the  plant  will 
thrive  in  most  soils. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  usually  late  in  May,  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand.  Sow  earlier  in  protected 
seed-bed. 

Thi)i  or  transplant  to  nine  inches  in  the  rows. 

Pick  the  young  leaves  only. 

Succession. — Sow  every  three  weeks. 

BORECOLE.    See  Kale. 

BROCCOLI.  A  biennial  plant  (Brassica  oleracea,  var. 
hotrytis)  closely  resembling  the  cauliflower,  but  smaller, 
tenderer  to  heat,  hardier  to  frost,  and  not  of  such  fine 
quality.  The  American  culture  of  Broccoli  is  entirely 
different  from  the  European,  where  the  plants  are 
usually  sown  in  midsummer  and  wintered  over.  They 
will  not  come  well  through  our  severe  and  changeable 
northern  winters,  if  indeed  they  survive  at  all;  but  in 
the  milder  parts  of  the  country  the  French  or  English 
methods  might  be  practiced.  Varieties  offered  in 
America  are  few. 


50  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Soil. — Should  best  be  rich,  moist,  and  moderately 
deep.  In  a  dry  soil,  work  compost  or  old  manure 
around  the  plants,  or  mulch  with  fresh  manure,  to  re- 
tain moisture  and  give  food. 

Distances. — Plants  should  stand  two  feet  apart  each 
wav. 

Depth. — One  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March,  prick  out  once,  and  set 
out  when  well  hardened,  at  the  end  of  April,  giving 
protection  against  severe  frosts. 

Sow  outdoors  about  May  1,  either  in  hills  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand  (four  to  six  seeds  to  a  hill)  or  thinly 
in  the  seed-bed,  drills  one  foot  apart. 

Thin  hills  to  one  in  a  hill.  Thin  seed-bed  to  about 
two  inches  apart. 

Transplant  when  the  plants  are  from  four  to  six 
inches  high.  Water  in  dry  w^eather,  and  protect  against 
the  sun  for  a  day  or  two. 

Cidture  consists  chiefly  in  conserving  soil-moisture. 

Fertilizer. —  A  little  nitrate  of  soda  at  or  soon  after 
transplanting,  repeated  once,  a  week  later. 

Tie  the  inner  leaves  over  the  head  as  soon  as  it 
is  formed. 

Cut  when  the  head  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter. 
Broccoli  is  best  when  small. 

Wintering  in  mild  climates  is  done  either  by  allow- 
ing the  plants  to  stand  where  they  are,  or  by  heeling 
them    in  with  their  heads   turned   toward   the   north. 


Plate  111.     Standard  Brussels  Sprouts  Plant 
With  a  three-foot  scale.    Note  the  compact  sprouts 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS  51 

away  from  the  sun.  This  can  be  done  without  entirely 
uprooting  them,  bv  digging  the  earth  away  from  the 
roots  (taking  care  not  to  injure  them)  on  the  northerly 
side,  bending  them  in  that  direction,  and  then  covering 
the  whole  of  the  stems  with  earth.  The  plants  will 
head  in  the  spring.  When  grown  for  this  purpose, 
sowings  should  not  be  made  before  June. 

Storage  of  Broccoli  is  possible,  by  taking  up  the 
plants  with  as  much  soil  as  possible  and  setting  them 
in  a  cellar  or  shed,  or  in  a  vacant  frame,  rather  close 
but  not  crowding.  This  keeps  them  fresher  than  by 
hanging  them  head  downward,  which  is  also  practiced. 

Diseases  and  pests. — See  Cauliflower. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  {Brasska  oleracea,  var.  gem- 
mifera)  are  perhaps  the  most  delicate,  as  they  are  among 
the  hardiest,  of  the  cabbage  family.  The  plant  sends 
up  a  leafy  stalk,  upon  which,  toward  the*  end  of  the 
summer,  the  sprouts  appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves. 
To  allow  them  to  develop,  the  leaves  should  i,hen  be 
broken  off.  The  sprouts  are  improved  by  frost,  so  that 
the  main  crop  is  grown  to  mature  in  late  September  and 
October.  In  mild  climates  the  plants  may  stand  in  the 
field  all  winter.  Varieties  are  tall,  half-dwarf,  and 
dwarf.  The  dwarf  plant  bears  loose  sprouts,  closely 
crowded  along  the  stalk ;  these  are  often  entered  by  the 
aphis,  which  it  is  then  impossible  to  dislodge.  The 
taller  plant,  especially  the  tall  or  standard,  bears  com- 


52 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


pact  sprouts,  which  the  aphis  cannot  enter,  and  which 
are  therefore  better  for  the  table.  As  with  others  of 
the  cabbage  family,  only  the  very  best  seed  should  be 


A  grood  dwarf  plant  of 
Brussels  Sprouts. 


used,  but  even  then  several  types  of  plants  are  likely  to 
appear  from  the  same  package.  Besides  cabbage  pests, 
the  aphis  is  almost   the  only  insect   that  attacks  the 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS  53 

plant,  and  this  is  troublesome  only  with  the  dwarf 
sprouts. 

Soil  should  be  a  rich  loam;  in  a  sandy  soil,  dig  in 
compost  around  each  plant,  or  mulch  to  conserve  the 
moisture. 

Distances  are  according  to  variety,  from  two  feet  by 
one  to  three  feet  by  two. 

Depths  as  below. 

Sowing  under  glass  is  not  necessary  except  in  a  late 
spring,  when  sow  in  April  and  prick  out  once. 

Sow  outdoors. — For  first  crop,  to  mature  in  Septem- 
ber, sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit,  very  thinly  in  a 
seed-bed,  about  one-half  inch  deep.  For  late  crop,  sow 
deeper,  about  one  inch,  early  in  June.  Seed-bed  rows 
about  one  foot  apart. 

Thin  when  well  up  to  two  inches  or  more  apart. 

Transplant  early  crop  in  June,  late  crop  about 
August  1. 

Culture. — Keep  the  patch  clean  and  the  surface  well 
broken.  When  the  sprouts  begin  to  show,  break  off  the 
neighboring  leaves. 

Fertilize  with  liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda  at 
transplanting,  and  weekly  for  three  or  four  weeks. 

Pick  when  the  sprouts  are  of  sufficient  size.  They 
should  be  cut  rather  than  picked,  leaving  as  much  as 
possible  of  the  heel,  for  the  formation  of  another 
sprout.  Or  top  the  plant,  and  in  about  ten  days  pull 
it  and  cut  the  sprouts. 


54  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Storage. — In  severe  climates  the  plants  may  be  taken 
up  with  as  much  soil  as  possible,  when  hard  freezing  is 
due,  and  set  closely,  but  without  crowding,  in  a  pit, 
frame,  or  cellar.  Keep  the  roots  moist.  South  of  New 
York  City  the  plants  may  usually  stand  out-of-doors. 

Diseases  and  pests. — See  under  Cabbage.  The  root 
maggot  is  the  worst.  For  aphis,  use  kerosene  emulsion, 
tobacco-water,  pyrethrum,  before  the  sprouts  set.  After- 
wards.)  hot  water. 

BUCK»S-HORN  PLANTAIN  (Plantago  Coronopus), 
an  annual  salad-plant,  grown  for  its  young  leaves. 
Little  known  in  America. 

Soil  should  be  moist. 

Sow  thinly  in  rows  a  foot  apart,  one-half  inch  deep, 
in  May.    Thin  to  four  inches. 

Culture. — Give  good  culture,  and  water  in  a  drought. 

Pick  the  young  leaves  as  needed,  for  mixing  in 
salads. 

BURDOCK,  EDIBLE,  or  GOBO  {Lappa  edulis).  A 
Japanese  development  of  the  common  Burdock,  grown 
for  its  roots.  Vilmorin-Andrieux  commend  it  cautiously, 
and  urge  an  attempt  to  develop  the  Burdock  as  the 
beet  and  carrot  have  been. 

Soil  deep,  well  tilled,  and  not  freshly  manured. 

Distances. — Rows  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart; 
thin  to  nine  inches  in  the  rows. 


BURNET— CABBAGE  55 

Depth  an  inch  or  less. 

Sow  in  spring,  and  again  every  month  until  the  first 
of  August  for  succession. 

Dig  the  roots  when  young,  at  about  two  and  one- 
half  to  three  months.  If  left  longer,  the  roots  become 
stringy.    Cook  like  salsify. 

BURNET  (Poterium  sanguisorha)  is  a  handsome 
perennial  condimental  herb,  grown  for  its  young  leaves, 
used  in  salads,  and  tasting  of  cucumbers. 

Sow  in  any  good  garden  soil,  sandy  preferred,  rows 
a  foot  apart,  depth  one -half  inch,  and  thin  to  six 
inches. 

Cut  the  leaves  as  required,  when  the  plants  are 
established. 

From  roots-. — The  roots  can  be  divided  and  set  out, 
in  spring  or  autumn. 

Protect  lightly  in  severe  climates. 

CABBAGE  {Brasska  oleracea)^  one  of  the  most 
widely  grown  American  vegetables,  is  grown  for  its 
more  or  less  dense  and  various-shaped  heads.  Very 
hardy  to  frost,  it  suffers  in  extreme  heat,  and  should  be 
so  planted  as  to  head  either  before  or  after  midsunnner. 
Cabbage  requires  a  uniform  supply  of  moisture;  the 
heads  of  plants  which  stop  growth  and  then  start  again 
will  orten  crack.  At  the  same  time  Cabbage  soils  should 
be  well  drained,  as  standing  moisture  injures  the  plants. 


56 


THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


The  times  of  sowing  and  of  setting  out  vary  with  local 
conditions;  usually  two  crops  are  raised  in  the  North, 
one  started  under  glass,  one  sowed  in  the  open ;  but  a 
succession  may  be  maintained  all  summer  by  several 
sowings  and  by  choice  of  varieties.  Seedlings  raised 
under  glass,  and  well  hardened  off,  will  stand  several 


r/ 


Fig.  28.    Cabbage  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

degrees  of  frost.  In  the  North,  cabbage  was  formerly 
often  fall-sown  and  wintered  over  in  frames,  but  this 
expensive  and  uncertain  method  has  been  superseded  by 
raising  under  glass  in  spring.  Varieties  are  many  and 
constantly  increasing;  they  differ  in  size,  shape,  season, 
color,  and  leaf-texture.  The  long-season  plants  are 
the  best  keepers.  Only  the  very  best  seeds  should  be 
bought.  Diseases  and  pests,  not  very  numerous,  are  often 
troublesome. 


CABBAGE 


57 


For  other  plants  of  the 
Cabbage  family,  see  under 
their  names. 

Soil  should  be  deep,  rich, 
moist,  well  drained,  and  in 
good  tilth.  Cabbage  does 
well  on  new  land.  Commer- 
cial growers  apply  manure 
in  great  quantities,  often 
one  hundred  tons  to  the 
acre.  Chemical  fertilizers, 
used  alone,  are  best  in  the 
formula  of  7  per  cent  nitro- 
gen, 8  per  cent  phosphoric 
acid,  6  per  cent  potash. 
With  manure,  use  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid  as  un- 
der Asparagus,  Preparing 
the  Permanent  Bed. 

Distances  are  according 
to  variety,  two  feet  or  more 
each  way. 

Depth  one-half  to  one 
inch. 

Sow  under  glass  thirty 
to  forty  days  before  the 
ground  is  fit,  usually  early 
in    March ;     prick    out    to 


58  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

four  to  six  inches,  at  the  second  or  fourth  leaf.  Keep 
stocky,  and  harden  off. 

Sow  outdoors^  usually  about  the  middle  of  April, 
when  heavy  frosts  are  over,  according  to  variety  and  re- 
quired time  of  maturity  (varieties  mature  in  from  one 
hundred  to  almost  two  hundred  days).  Sow  in  seed-bed 
for  a  quicker  start  and  better  care,  in  lighter  soil ;  rows 
one  foot  apart,  seed  very  thinly  in  the  rows.  Or  sow  in 
hills  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  two  feet  or  more 
apart  each  way,  four  to  six  seeds  to  the  hill. 

Tlihi  to  two  inches  or  more  in  the  rows.  In  hills, 
thin  to  one  plant. 

Sow  for  succession  early  cabbages  late,  about  the 
middle  of  June,  or  even  later. 

Transplant  when  the  permanent  patch  is  ready;  the 
plants  should  be  three  to  five  inches  high.  Plants  raised 
under  glass  and  properly  hardened  will  stand  light 
frosts,  and  can  be  set  out  before  May  1.  Set  deeper 
than  before  to  avoid  loosening  of  the  roots  by  wind. 

Culture  consists  chiefly  in  keeping  the  plants  grow- 
ing by  maintaining  soil- moisture.  A  mulch  of  fresh 
manure  around  the  plants  will  do  this,  and  will  also 
supply  fertilizer. 

The  plot  should  be  in  the  best  of  tilth.  Manure  and 
fertilize  as  above.  If  cutworms  are  expected,  bait  with 
clover  sprayed  when  standing  with  Paris  green,  cut,  and 
spread  in  little  piles  ;  or  with  bran-mash  made  with 
sweetened  water  and  poisoned  with  arsenites. 


CABBAGE 


59 


Subsequent  fertilizer . — Experiments  go  to  show  that 
the  weight  of  the  crop  may  be  multiphed  considerably 
by  nitrate  of  soda,  four  hundred  pounds  per  acre, 
apphed  in  three  equal  dressings,  the  first  at  transplant- 
ing, the  others  at  intervals  of  a  month  or  less. 


Fig.  30.  Cabbage,  the  Jersey  Wakefield  type.    An  early  maturing  cabbage. 

Pick  when  of  full  size,  when  the  heads  are  hard  and 
before  they  show  signs  of  cracking.  (Cracking  or  split- 
ting may  occur  early  if  the  heads  stop  growing  from 
lack  of  moisture,  and  start  again.) 

In  the  home  garden,  if  the  plants  are  coming  on  all 
together,  the  maturity  of  some  may  be  delayed  by  lean- 
ing them  toward  the  north,  partly  starting  them  from 
the  ground.  When  the  first  heads  are  cut,  leave  the 
stalk  with  some  of  the  large  leaves  ;  the  plants  will 
then  often  put  out  young  heads  or  sprouts,  several  to  a 
plant,  which  may  be  cut  and  eaten. 

Storage. — Cabbages  may  be  picked  with  all  their 
leaves,  and  stored  in  sheds  or  cellars  ;  or,  pulled  with 


60 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


their  roots  and  earth,  they  may  be  set  in  pits  (head 
down,  on  their  sides,  or  upright)  and  covered  as  freez- 
inij  weather  comes  on.  Or  set  them  in  trenches,  well 
drained,  having  pulled  them  and  drained  all  water 
from  the  heads.  Set  close  together,  roots  down  and 
covered  wdth  earth.  To  shed  rain,  cover  with  litter, 
straw  or  cornstalks,  or  with  a  roof  of  boards,  and  with 
earth  as  the  hard  frost  comes.  It  is  an  art  to  keep 
them  well. 

Diseases.  —  Against  club-root  (club-foot,  finger  and 
toe),  keep  the  plants  growing  well,  keep  dowqi  weeds 


Fig.  31.    Cabbage,  the  Flat  Dutch  type. 

and  preserve  moisture,  dress  wdth  lime  (air -slaked, 
seventy-five  bushels  per  acre),  destroy  diseased  plants, 
and  practice  rotation.  Both  in  the  case  of  club-root 
and  black  rot  (or  stem  rot),  manure  is  suspected  as  be- 
ing a  cause   of  the   disease.    Against   black    rot    late 


CABBAGE 


61 


planting,  rotation,  burning  of  affected  leaves,  and  the 
extermination  of  insects,  are  suggested.  In  storing 
cabbage,  make  sure  that  all  diseased  leaves  are  picked. 

Pests. — Against  cabbage  pests  generally,  keep  do^vn 
all  cruciferous  weeds,  and  burn  all  the  rubbish  of  the 
patch. 

Against  cabbage-worms,  the  best  general  remedy  is 


Fig.  32.   Savoy  Cabbage.   Note  the  crinkled  leaves. 

the  poisoned  resin-lime  mixture.  ("Pulverized  resin  5 
pounds,  concentrated  lye  1  pound,  fish-oil  or  any  cheap 
animal-oil  except  tallow,  1  pint,  water  5  gallons.  Place 
oil,  resin,  and  a  gallon  of  water  in  an  iron  kettle,  and 
heat  until  the  resin  is  softened  ;  add  lye  solution  made 
as  for  hard  soap;  stir  thoroughly;  add  remainder  of 
water  and  boil  about  two  hours,  or  until  the  mixture 
will  unite  with  cold  water,  making  a  clear,  amber-colored 
liquid.    If  it  has  boiled  away  too  much,  add  enough 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


Fig.  33.  Female  Cabbage  Butterfly.  When 
these  are  sfen  among  tlie  plants,  ex- 
pect the  appearance  of  cabbage 
worms. 


boiling  water  to  make  five  gallons."  New  York  Bulletin 
No.  144.)  To  a  gallon  of  this,  in  16  gallons  of  water, 
add  three  gallons  of  milk  of  lime,  or  whitewash,  and  a 

quarter  pound  of  Paris 
green,  ^pray  b?/ ha?id, 
reaching  all  purts  of 
the  plants  and  using 
a  strongly  made 
sprayer.  Other  reme- 
dies for  the  worms  are 
hand-picking,  tobacco 
dust,  pyrethrum,  helle- 
bore, one  ounce  arsen- 
ical poison  in  six  pounds  flour  or  in  ten  of  air-slaked 
lime,  or  some  other  insect  powder  applied  liberally 
and  often,  especially  while  the  plants  are  young,  to 
destroy  the  early  broods.  Sprav  with  water  at  160°, 
kerosene  emulsion  diluted  eight  times,  arsenites  in 
water. 

For  cabbage-looper,  the  same  remedies. 
For  the  harlequin  bug,  use  blow-torch  ;  place  pieces 
of  wood  or  large  leaves  about  the  plants  and  kill  the 
bugs  that  collect  under  them  ;  plant  mustard  between 
the  Cabbages  and  spray  with  pure  kerosene.  Keep  the 
patch  clean,  in  the  fall  burn  all  rubbish,  and  in  the 
spring  make  every  effort  to  destrov  the  first  brood. 
Pick  by  hand. 

Against  the  troublesome  root-maggot,  j)lace  j)aper 


CABBAGE  6S 

shields  closely  about  the  stems  of  the  plants  immediately 
after  setting,  and  apply  muriate  of  potash  or  kainit,  and 
nitrate  of  soda,  around  but  not  touching  the  plants.  Or 
place  a  tablespoonful  of  tobacco  dust  around  each  plant. 
Otherwise  inject  carbon  dioxide  (one  teaspoonful  per 
plant,  increase  to  tablespoonful  if  the  pests  are  numer- 
ous) into  the  ground  beneath  the  roots,  and  firm  the 
ground  around  the  plants.  Watch  for  the  white  eggs 
laid  on  the  ground  near  the  plants,  and  pour  kerosene 
emulsion  (diluted  thirty  times)  or  carbolic  acid  emulsion 
(diluted  twelve  times)  or  crude  carbolic  acid  (diluted 
fifty  to  one-hundred  times)  around  the  plants,  one-half 
pint  to  a  plant.    Burn  plants  killed  by  root-maggot. 

If  a  cutworm  has  killed  a  plant,  dig  for  it  near  by. 
Protect  the  rest  with  baits  (see  under  The  Plot)  at  the 
base  of  each  plant,  and  dress  around  them  with  kainit, 
muriate  of  potash,  or  nitrate  of  soda.    Paper  collars. 

Against  aphis,  use  contact  poisons,  such  as  kerosene 
emulsion,  tobacco  water,  pyrethrum,  or  hot  water, 
applied  carefully.  Burn  refuse  leaves  and  stalks  after 
the  heads  are  taken. 

Against  thrips,  kerosene  emulsion,  diluted  ten  times, 
or  whale-oil  soap,  1  pound  in  4  gallons  water.  Give  the 
plants  nitrate  of  soda  to  stinmlate  growth.  (Smith.) 

Against  flea-beetle,  tobacco  dust,  air-slaked  hme,  a 
tablespoonful  of  Paris  Green  and  a  pint  of  fresh-slaked 
lime  in  two  gallons  of  water,  four  ounces  Paris  Green 
to  fifty  gallons  of  Bordeaux. 


64  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Dig  for  white  grubs  near  any  weakened  plant. 
"Cabbage  snakes'"  are  harmless,  either  to  the  plants 
or  to  the  human  body  if  accidentally  eaten. 

CABBAGE,  CHINESE.    See  Pe-tsai. 

CABBAGE,  TURNIP-ROOTED.  See  Kohlrabi.  Also 
Rutabaga. 

CAMOMILE  (Chamomile,  or  Camomilla;  Anthemw 
nobilis).  A  perennial  plant,  grown  in  two  varieties, — 
single-  (Scotch)  and  double-flowered  (garden  or  Roman) 
both  hardy.  Camomile  is  grown  for  its  flowers,  used  in 
medicine  as  a  tonic,  a  febrifuge,  an  emetic,  a  mouth- 
wash, and  an  anodyne.  The  Scotch  Camomile  is  sup- 
posed to  have  the  greater  medicinal  value,  but  the 
Roman  produces  more  blossoms. 

Soil  should  preferably  be  sandy,  sunny,  and  well 
drained. 

Distances.  —  Rows  one  foot  apart ;  plants  nine 
inches  in  the  row. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  warm. 

Thin  when  the  plants  are  four  to  six  inches  high. 

Set  roots  at  the  above  distances ;  water  till 
established. 

Gather  the  flowers  when  well  open.  Dry  in  the 
snade,  and  store. 


CARAWAY — C  ARDOON  65 

Succession.  The  plants  will  grow  larger  from  year  to 
year,  and  will  also  seed  themselves. 

Protect  with  a  light  mulch  in  cold  climates. 

CAMOMILE,  WILD.    See  Feverfew. 

CANTALOUP  (Cantaloupe,  cantaleup,  canteloup, 
canteloupe).    See  Muskmelon. 

CAPSICUM.    See  Pepper. 

CARAWAY  {Carum  Carui).  A  biennial,  or  some- 
times annual  plant,  grown  chiefly  for  its  seeds ;  used 
in  cooking.  The  root  is  sometimes  eaten,  and  some- 
times the  leaves  and  stems.    No  varieties. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past  in  any  good  soil,  thickly 
in  drills  a  foot  apart  and  one  inch  deep.  Thin  to  nine 
inches  when  well  up.  Protect  in  the  North.  The  plant 
will  bear  seed  the  second  summer.  Gather  when  ripe. 
Or  sow  seed  as  soon  as  ripe,  protect  over  winter,  and 
gather  early  the  next  summer. 

CARDOON  {Cynara  cardunculus).  A  perennial 
plant,  allied  to  the  globe-artichoke  and  thistle,  but 
tender  to  frost  and  usually  grown  as  an  annual.  Its 
edible  parts  are  the  midribs  of  its  tall  leaves,  which  are 
tied  together  and  blanched;  the  roots  also  are  occasion- 
ally eaten.    For  best  results,  growth  should  never  be 


66  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

checked.  Some  little  skill  in  blanching  is  required,  and 
when  properly  blanched  the  plant  should  be  cut  at 
once,  as  it  soon  rots.  An  early  sowing  of  Cardoon  may 
be  made  in  pots  under  glass,  but  the  general  practice  is 
to  make  but  a  single  sowing  out  of  doors.  Cardoon  is 
not  offered  by  all  American  seedsmen ;  varieties  are 
prickly  and  spineless.   No  diseases  or  pests  are  reported. 

Soil  should  be  moist,  rich,  and  deep.  A  good  celerv 
soil  will  suit  Cardoon.  Work  compost  or  well-rotted  ma- 
nure into  the  hill  if  possible,  especially  on  sandy  soil. 

Distances.  —  Rows  four  feet  apart,  or  hills  three  by 
three  feet. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sozo  under  glass  in  April,  in  four-inch  pots,  five  to 
six  seeds  to  the  pot;  thin  to  one  plant  and  harden  off 
before  setting  out.  Sow  in  the  open  ground  when 
frosts  are  past,  late  in  May.  Pots  over  the  hills  will 
assist  the  germination.  Sow  very  thinly  in  the  rows, 
three  to  five  seeds  in  the  hills. 

Thin  when  well  up,  to  two  feet  or  more  in  the  rows, 
one  plant  in  the  hills. 

Set  out  when  frosts  are  past. 

Sowing  in  seed-beds  may  be  practiced  with  Cardoon, 
if  the  transplanting  is  carefully  done  and  the  plants  not 
checked.  Rows  one  foot  apart.  Thin  plants  to  four 
inches. 

Transplant  from  seed-bed  with  care,  taking  earth 
with  each  plant,  when  about  four  inches  high. 


CARDOON  67 

Culture. — Preserve  the  soil  moisture  by  cultivation; 
water  in  a  drought. 

Fertilize  with  a  general  fertilizer,  rich  in  nitrogen, 
under  the  seeds  in  the  row  or  hill;  nitrate  of  soda  or 
liquid  manure,  after  the  plants  are  well  up,  in  small 
quantities  every  ten  days. 

Blanching'. — -When  the  large  outer  leaves  are  eighteen 
inches  or  more  tall,  usually  late  in  the  season,  gather 
the  whole  plant  together  zaheji  dry,  and  tie  the  leaves 
at  the  tip.  A\^rap  with  matting  or  heavy  paper,  pack 
straw  or  hay  around  them,  and  pack  earth  firmly  over 
the  whole,  leaving  the  tips  of  the  leaves  still  exposed. 
The  plant  should  be  blanched  in  two  weeks  or  more, 
and  when  white  and  tender  should  be  cut  at  once,  before 
it  rots.  The  root  may  also  be  pulled  and  eaten. 
Cardoon  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow  too  rank  and 
tall,  as  thorough  blanching  is  difficult.  Blanching  on  a 
small  scale  may  be  done  by  means  of  drain -pipes  set 
over  the  plants  after  tying. 

The  row  cultui'e  has  the  advantage  over  hill  culture 
that  the  plants  may  be  ridged  up  like  celery,  with  less 
labor,  and  will  stand  frost  better.  Cardoon  may  be 
taken  up  and  blanched  in  trenches,  or  indoors,  if  it 
comes  late  to  blanching  size. 

Winter  protection  for  roots  is  possible  in  very 
equable  and  mild  sections  of  the  country.  It  is  better, 
however,  to  eat  the  thicker  parts  of  the  roots,  and  raise 
the  plants  again   from  seed. 


68 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


Blanching  in  storage  is  practiced  with  late-maturing 
plants  which  might  be  injured  by  frost.  Having  tied 
them  up  and  partly  covered  them,  as  soon  as  blanching 
has  begun  take  up  the  plants  with  balls  of  earth,  and 
store  close  together  in  a  dark  cellar,  where  they  will 
complete  their  blanching,  and  will  last  longer  than  if 
blanched  out-of-doors. 


CARROT  {Daiwus  Carota),  A  biennial  plant  grown 
as  an  annual,  and  cultivated  for  its  roots.  The  virtues  of 
the  Carrot,  especially  of  the  improved  varieties,  are  not 


^/^ 


^rfe^ 


^~Sn 


w 


Fig.  34.    Carrot  seedlings.     Natural  size. 

generally  appreciated;  but  the  short  varieties  are  now 
widely  grown  in  the  East,  and  in  England  and  France 
the  Carrot  is  so  popular  that  it  is  forced  under  glass. 
It  is  very  hardy  to  frost.  Varieties  are  short  (early), 
half-long  (medium  season)  and  long  (late).    The  short, 


CARROT 


69 


blunt  varieties  are  often  annual  plants,  the  roots  not 
keeping  well  when  out  of  the  ground;  they  are  used 
for  forcing  and  for  early  a^d  late  outdoor  sowings.  The 
long,  pointed,  coarse  varieties  afe  now  used  chiefly  for 
stock.  Pests  and  diseases,  reported  troublesome  abroad, 
are  as  yet  insignificant 
with  us. 

Soil  should  be  rich, 
light,  not  given  to  bak- 
ing, and  in  good  tilth. 
The  soil  should  not 
have  been  recentlv  ma- 
nured except  for  the 
short  varieties. 

Distances.  —  Rows 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart,  according  to  va- 
riety. 

Depth. — One  inch  or 
less. 

Sow^  for  earliest 
crop,  the  short  varieties 
as  soon  as  the  ground  is 
fit;  for  succession,  the 
long  and  half-long  varieties  soon  after,  early  in  May. 
June  sowings  of  the  half-long  varieties  mav  be  followed 
by  July  sowings  of  the  early  kinds ;  these  will  not  keep 
well,  but  the  others   may  be  stored   for  winter.    Sow 


Fiff.  35.    Sliott  Carrots,  used  for  the 
early  and  late  crops. 


70 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


alwRA's  thickly,  as  germination    is   uncertain,  although 
a  good  stand  makes  hard  thinning. 

Thin,  when  the  plants  are  well  up, 
to  three  inches.  As  the  large  varie- 
ties grow  they  may  be  thinned  again 
to  six  inches,  and  the  thinnings  eaten. 
Ciiltiwe. — Do  not  let  the  soil  bake 
over  the  seeds,  which  germinate 
slowly.  The  seedlings  are  delicate; 
cultivate  very  carefully  until  the  tops 
cover  the  ground. 

FeH'dhxr. — The  formula  of  nitro- 
gen 4  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid  (avail- 
able) 5  per  cent,  potash  10  p^'  cent, 
is  recommended  by  Voorhees. 

Succession. — A  constant  succession 
may  be  maintained  from  late  June 
until  spring  by  choice  of  varieties  and 
season  of  sowing,  storing  the  winter 
Carrots.  In  mild  climates  Carrots  are 
sometimes  sown  in  August  and  wintered  in  the  ground 
for  a  spring  growth  and  early  picking.  In  general, 
however.  Carrots  will  not  survive  a  winter  of  any 
severity. 

Storage. — The  late  varieties  may  be  stored  in  pits 
or  in  sand  in  the  cellar. 

Force  the  early  varieties  under  glass,  the  tempera- 
ture from  50  to  60  degrees. 


Fig.  36. 
Half-long  Carrot. 


CASTOR-OIL— CAULIFLOWER  71 

CASTOR-OIL  PLANT  (Ricimis  communis),  is  a  plant 
seldom  grown  otherwise  than  commercially,  or  else  for 
bedding  purposes.  Castor-oil  is  expressed  from  its  seed, 
the  castor-bean. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past  in  any  good  soil ;  or  start 
under  glass  in  March  or  April  and  set  out. 

Distances. — Three  by  three  feet. 

The  plant  is  a  half-hardy  annual.  Take  the  seeds 
when  ripe. 

CATMINT.    See  Catnip. 

CATNIP  or  Catmint  {Nepeta  Cataria)  is  a  perennial 
herb  grown  for  its  leaves  and  tender  stems,  used  in 
seasoning.    No  varieties. 

Sow  in  ordinary  garden  soil,  when  hard  frosts  are 
past,  thinly,  in  drills  18  inches  or  more  apart. 

Depth  one  inch. 

Thin  to  six  inches. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  shoots  when  the  plants  are  well 
established.  The  whole  plant,  when  in  blossom,  may  be 
cut  down  and  dried. 

Renew  from  seed  when  the  plants  show  signs  of 
decline. 

CAULIFLOWER  {Bi-assica  oleracea,  var.  hotrytis). 
A  member  of  the  very  various  cabbage  family,  probably 
developed  from  the  broccoli,  and  grown  for  its  flower- 


72  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

stems,  which  form  the  thick  white  "head"  of  the  plant. 
Cauliflower  is  difficult  to  grow,  a  "fastidious  vegetable,""* 
"one  of  those  crops  in  the  culture  of  which  the  unskilled 
amateur  is  liable  to  stumble  upon  success,  and  the  more 
experienced  professional  to  meet  with  failure."  (Greiner, 
in  Cyclopedia  of  American  Horticulture.)  Proper  soil, 
a  favorable  summer  (the  element  of  chance),  careful 
cultivation,  extermination  of  pests,  and  good  seed, 
should  give  success  with  Cauliflower.  The  crop  grows 
well  in  certain  localities  (the  eastern  coast,  near  Puget 
Sound,  and  near  the  Great  Lakes),  where  it  gets  the  con- 
ditions of  moist  and  cool  air  which  it  requires.  Else- 
where great  pains  are  taken  to  grow  Cauliflower  in  two 
crops,  one  maturing  before,  and  the  other  heading  after 
the  heat  of  midsummer.  For  these  there  is  also  a  choice 
of  varieties,  the  earlier  being  best  for  the  first  crop. 
Well  handled,  even  the  seedlings  of  Cauliflower  are 
fairly  hardy,  while  the  mature  plants  will  stand  severe 
frosts.  The  plant,  like  the  cabbage,  should  be  kept 
growing  by  means  of  a  constant  supply  of  moisture,  or 
the  head  will  "button,"  or  "bolt."  When  the  heads 
have  formed,  the  leaves  should  be  tied  together  over 
them  to  keep  off*  the  sun  or  rain.  Breaking  the  leaves 
down  over  the  head  is  not  thoroughly  eff'ective.  It  is 
essential  to  good  Cauliflower  culture  that  the  cabbage- 
worms  be  kept  from  the  plant,  or  their  excreta  will  ruin 
the  head,  however  perfect  it  may  otherwise  be.  Seed 
for  the  Cauliflower  should  be  of  the  very  best.    Since  an 


CAULIFLOWER 


73 


ounce  will  give  two  thousand  five  hundred  or  more 
plants,  five  dollars  an  ounce  is  not  really  expensive. 
As  with  cabbage,  the  old  method  of  fall  sowing  and 
wintering  the  plants  in  frames  is  giving  way  to  the 
method  of  starting  the  plants  in  spring  under  glass. 
Varieties  are  practically  two, — early  (dwarf)  and  late. 
Diseases  and  pests  are  sometimes  very  troublesome. 


Fig.  37.    Cauliflower  head,  the  leaves  trimmed  off. 

Soil  should  be  especially  rich,  moist  but  well  drained. 
Almost  any  quantity  of  manure  (horse  manure  pre- 
ferred) may  be  worked  into  the  soil,  and  should  be 
supplemented  with  potash  and  phosphoric  acid.  Before 
setting  out  put  the  soil  into  fine  tilth,  and  keep  it  so. 
Bait  against  cutworms  before  setting  out,  as  with 
cabbage. 


74  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Distances. — Rows  two  to  two  and  one-half  feet 
apart,  according  to  variety.  Plants  in  the  row  eighteen 
to  twenty-four  inches.  Or  set  out  or  sow  in  hills, 
twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  each  way. 

Depth  one  inch  in  spring,  two  inches  later. 

Early  crop.  —  Usually  from  the  dwarf  or  early 
varieties.  Start  under  glass  in  early  March,  or  thirty  to 
forty  days  before  the  ground  will  be  fit,  and  prick  out 
once.  Keep  the  plants  stocky,  but  do  not  stunt,  and 
harden  off.  Set  out  when  the  ground  is  in  the  best 
condition;  the  plants  will  need  no  protection  against 
light  frosts.  Give  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  to 
start  them  off  well. 

Second  crop. — Sow  outdoors,  in  a  seed-bed  for  a 
quicker  start  and  better  care,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  as 
soon  as  the  ground  is  fit.  This  crop  is  usually  of  the 
large  kinds.  Sow  very  thinly,  and  thin  to  two  inches 
apart,  transplanting  the  thinnings  if  necessary.  Or  sow 
in  hills  thirty  inches  each  way,  several  seeds  to  a  hill, 
and  thin  to  one.  Transplant  from  seed-bed  at  about 
five  inches,  and  give  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure. 

Besides  these  two  ci'ops,  it  is  possible  to  get  a  late 
crop  of  early  varieties  by  sowing  in  early  June. 

Culture  consists  in  clean  hoeing  and  surface  mulch- 
ing, either  with  dirt,  or,  best,  with  manure. 

Fertilizer. — Dress  with  nitrate  of  soda  once  or  twice 
soon  after  transplanting. 

Tying. — When  the  heads   have  formed  enough  to 


CAULIFLOWER— CELERIAC  75 

begin  to  push  aside  the  small  leaves,  tie  the  larger 
leaves  together  over  the  centers,  leaving  a  few  still  loose. 
This  is  to  exclude  rain  and  sun.  It  will  not  keep  worms 
out:  these  should  previously  have  been  exterminated, 
or  they  will  ruin  the  heads  with  their  droppings. 

Cut  the  heads  at  full  size. 

Diseases  are  the  same  as  with  cabbage,  which  see. 

Pests  are  also  much  the  same  as  with  cabbage. 
Plant-lice  may  be  fought  by  insect  powders,  kerosene 
emulsion,  hot  suds,  or  tobacco  in  solution.  The  root- 
maggot  is  especially  injurious  to  Cauliflower;  treat  as 
with  cabbage.  As  said,  worms  should  be  exterminated 
before  the  plants  head ;  if  the  poisoned  resin-lime 
mixture  is  used,  apply  once  soon  after  setting,  and  once 
before  the  heads  begin  to  thrust  aside  the  inner  leaves. 
The  poison  should  not  reach  the  head. 

CELERIAC,  or  Turnip-rooted  Celery  {Apiiim  grave- 
olens,  var.  rapaceum)  is  a  vegetable  of  the  celery  family 
grown  for  its  enlarged  root,  which  when  raw  or  boiled 
is  used  in  salads  and  for  flavoring,  or  is  cooked  as  a 
vegetable.  With  a  celery  flavor,  and  keeping  well,  it 
should  be  better  known  in  America,  where  it  is  in  de- 
mand chiefly  among  the  German  population.  It  is  grown 
like  celerv  without  the  earthing-up  (although  some 
growers  earth  the  roots,  a  simple  process)  and  is  placed 
at  less  distances.  As  with  celery,  transplanting  is  neces- 
sary to  success.   Celeriac  is  not  offered  in  America   in 


76 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


any  considerable  -variety ;   the  kinds  vary  somewhat  in 
the  size  and  shape  of  the  root. 

Soil  should  be,  as  for  celery,  deep,  moist,  and  rich; 
if  possible,  it  should  have  been  well  manured. 

Distances. —  Rows 
eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  apart,  according 
to  variety;  plants  in 
the  row,  nine  inches 
apart. 

Depth. —  Barely 
cover  the  seed,  or  press 
it  into  the  ground  and 


o  ve 


it 


Fig.  38.    Celeriac.    The  root  is  the 
edible  part,  and  tastes  of  celery. 


sift    earth 
lightly. 

Sow  early  crop  un- 
der glass  in  early 
March,  and  prick  out 
once.  Harden  off  and 
set  out-of-doors  when 
the  ground  is  fit  and 
severe  frosts  not  ex- 
of    nitrogen    at  this   trans- 


pected.     Give   a  dressing 
planting. 

Sow  late  crop  in  the  seed-bed  when  the  ground  is  fit, 
in  drills  apart  as  convenient.  Sow  thinly,  barely  cover, 
and  keep  the  ground  moist,  preferably  by  shading,  until 
the  plants  show. 


CELERIAC— CELERY  77 

Transplant  or  thin  at  three  inches  to  three  inches 
apart  in  the  rows.  At  eight  inches  or  more  transplant 
to  the  above  distances,  taking  care  to  destroy  the  tap-root 
if  that  is  not  ah'eadv  done  at  the  first  transplanting. 

Fertilize  with  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure, 
lightly,  after  each  transplanting,  and  a  few  times  there- 
after, ten  days  apart. 

Culture. — When  the  knob-roots  are  well  formed, 
trim  off  the  suckers  and  side  roots  a  few  times.  Keep 
the  earth  from  the  heart  of  the  plant  in  cultivating. 

EaHhing  around  the  root  in  the  fall  will  whiten  it. 

Protection. — With  slight  protection  the  plants  may 
be  kept  in  the  ground  until  early  winter. 

Storage. — They  may  be  pulled  and  the  roots  stored 
in  sand  in  the  cellar. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  not  troublesome. 

CELERY  (Jpiurn  graveolens)  is  gro^\^l  chiefly  for 
its  blanched  stalks.  The  thick  part  of  the  root  \h  some- 
times used  like  celeriac,  and  the  tops  are  used  in  flavor- 
ing or  are  cooked  as  a  vegetable.  Celery  at  its  best  is 
one  of  the  finest  vegetable  delicacies,  requiring  for  its 
culture,  as  has  been  said,  only  "a  very  little  very  great 
care.""  Given  rich  soil,  constant  moisture,  with  careful 
handling  at  the  right  times,  and  results  are  almost  sure 
to  be  right.  Celery  should  always  be  transplanted,  once 
in  any  case  (to  destroy  the  tap-root)  and  twice  if  pos- 
sible.    Home  gardeners  should  always  raise  their  own 


78 


THE   BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


plants,  to  make  sure  of  their  quality  and  to  save  ex- 
posure in  transportation.  The  plant  is  very  hardy,  and 
can  stand  outdoors  very  late.  Celery  is  invariably 
blanched,  but  the  blanching  is  very  differently  done,  ac- 
cording to  the  season  and  to  the  grower's  equipment 


Fig.  39.    Celery  seedlings.    Natural  size. 

and  space.  Seed  should  always  be  of  the  very  best; 
American -grown  seed  sometimes  gives  pithy  stalks. 
Varieties  are  many,  and  classify  chiefly  as  to  height, 
color  (red  tint),  and  "self- blanching"  properties;  there 
is  also  a  Soup  Celery,  grown  entirely  for  seasoning. 
Insects  are  seldom  troublesome,  diseases  occasionally  so. 
Soil  should  be  deep,  rich,  moist,  and  in  good  tilth. 
Work  in  manure  (ten  or  fifteen  tons  per  acre)  with 
high-grade  commercial  fertilizer  (six  to  eight  hundred 
pounds  per  acre).  Commercially,  Celery  is  often  grown 
on  bottom-lands,  where  moisture  is  certain,  and  the 
plants  grow  very  large;  but  upland-grown  Celery  is  finer 


CELERY  79 

in  quality.    Celery  will  grow  in  any  good  garden  soil, 
but  sandy  soils  should  be  heavily  dressed  with  manure. 

Distances  are  according  to  size  of  varieties  and 
methods  of  blanching. 

Sow  early  crop  under  glass  in  February,  and  cover 
till  the  plants  appear.  Seed  should  be  merely  pressed 
into  the  soil.  Prick  out  once  or  twice  (cut  off  tap-root 
at  first  transplanting)  and  keep  the  plants  stocky,  if 
possible  without  cutting  back.  Set  in  the  field  when 
the  ground  is  fit,  after  well  hardening  off. 

Sow  late  crop  in  a  moist  seed-bed  when  the  ground 
is  fit.  Drills  apart  as  convenient,  seed  thickly,  one- 
fourth  inch  deep.  Or  sow  broadcast  in  the  seed-bed 
and  sift  earth  over  the  seed.  Keep  the  ground  from 
baking  or  drying. 

Treatment  of  young  plants  in  the  seed-bed  is  entirely 
according  to  the  scale  on  which  they  are  raised  and  the 
labor  which  can  be  devoted  to  them.  Commercially 
they  are  usually  thinned  to  three  inches  or  so  apart, 
and  kept  stocky  by  cutting  off  the  tops.  Wherever 
possible  (in  garden  culture)  the  seed-bed  plants  should 
first  be  thinned  to  about  an  inch  between  the  plants^ 
and  these  transplanted  once  or  twice  when  large  enough 
to  handle,  taking  pains  at  the  first  transplanting  to  de- 
stroy the  tap-root;  the  second  transplanting  should 
follow  the  first  at  no  great  interval,  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  again  established.  Give  light  dressings  of 
nitrate   of  soda   or   liquid   manure.    Always   keep   the 


80 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


earth  from  the  heart  of  the  plant,  and  the  fertihzer 
away  from  the  tops. 

Digging  trenches  for  the  final  settings  and  putting 
manure   in    the   bottom    of  these,    is   now   not   widely 

practiced  in  this  coun- 
try, though  the 
method  is  excellent 
wherever  it  can  be  af- 
forded. Modern  cul- 
ture sets  the  plants 
upon  the  level  ground, 
taking  pains  first  to 
make  it  rich.  If  set  in 
trenches,  these  should 
be  well  drained,  and 
the  plants  set  on  little 
ridges  along  the  mid- 
dle, or  their  hearts 
will  be  filled  with  silt 
at  each   heavy  rain. 

Feriilizer  for  Cel- 
ery, when  specially 
mixed,  should  be  rich 
in  nitrogen  and  pot- 
ash. Experiments 
have  shown  that  ni- 
trate of  soda  at  the  rate  of  four  hundred  pounds  per 
acre,  applied  in  three   equal   dressings  after  the  final 


Fig.  40.     A  good  plant  of  Celery, 
trimmed. 


CELERY  81 

setting  of  the  plants,  gives  great  benefit,  "equivalent  to 
a  gain  of  $54.01  for  every  $1  invested  in  the  nitrate  of 
soda/'  (Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  162.)  The  New  Jersey 
station  recommends  two  equal  dressings  three  or  four 
weeks  apart.  Or  divide  the  four  hundred  pounds  into 
five  or  six  doses  in  a  rainy  summer. 

Methods  of  blanchmg'  are  chiefly  four: 

(1)  Blanching  with  Boards.  —  This  is  the  best 
method  for  the  summer  crop,  as  earthing  is  likely  to 
cause  rot  in  summer.  Boards  are  of  pine  or  hemlock, 
spruce  or  cypress,  one  inch  thick,  one  foot  wide,  twelve 
feet  or  more  long,  dressed  on  both  sides.  These  are 
set  against  the  rows  of  plants,  leaning  them  slightly 
inward;  the  boards  are  held  in  place  by  stakes,  or  by 
securing  the  tops  together  by  nailed  cleats  or  bent  wire. 
Set  the  boards  when  the  plants  will  show  but  a  few 
leaves  above  them.  The  plants  shoot  up  for  the  light, 
then  fill  the  space  between  the  boards,  and  exclude  air 
and  moisture.  Set  boards  only  when  the  plants  are 
dry.  Blanching  will  be  completed  in  two  weeks  or 
more.  For  this  method,  set  the  rows  two  to  three  feet 
apart,  plants,  six  inches  or  more  in  the  rows. 

(2)  Earthing. — The  best  autumn  method,  giving 
the  best  quality  of  Celery  and  protecting  against  frost. 
Earth  only  when  the  plants  are  dry,  and  do  not  begin 
until  the  hearts  of  the  plants  are  four  inches  or  more 
above  the  ground,  so  that  the  stalks  protect  the  center 
of  the  plant  from  the  earth. 


82 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


The  first  earthing  is  chiefly  to  begin  the  upright 
growth.  Hold  the  spreading  leaves  together  with  one 
hand  and  bank  the  earth  around  the  base  of  the  plant 
with  the  other;  or  tie  the  whole  row  at  a  time  with 
one  piece  of  string  (or  best  with  "paper  twine"')  by 
passing  it  in  and  out  between  the  plants,  securing  only 


Hh.iS 


Fig.  41.    Celery  rows  earthed  up  for  blanching.    The  last  earthing. 

to  the  end  plants.  Then  earth  up  by  hand  or  by 
plow. 

Later  earthings,  of  which  there  are  two  or  even 
three,  are  made  as  the  plants  shoot  up.  Never  get  the 
earth  higher  than  the  heart  of  the  plant,  or  it  will 
wash  into  it  and  spoil  it. 

For  this  method,  plants  are  set  in  rows  four  feet  or 
more  apart;  or  sometimes  two  rows  are  set  a  foot 
apart  (four  feet  between  the  double  rows)  and  both 
earthed  up  together;  plants  six  inches  or  more  apart 
in  the  row. 


CELERY 


83 


(3)  The  '''■New  method^''  of  blanching  consists  in 
setting  the  plants  in  a  bed,  six  inches  or  more  each 
way  according  to  variety,  with  boards  set  at  the  edges 
when  the  plants  are  tall  enough.  The  plants,  as  they 
grow,  keep  the  light  from  their  stalks  and  blanch  them- 
selves.    For  this  pm'pose  the   soil  must  be  especially 


Fig^.  42.  The  "New  Culture"  of  Celery.  The  plants  are  set  closely  to- 
gether and  the  patches  edged  with  boards.  By  this  method  Celery 
blanches  itself. 

rich  and  moisture  plentiful;  irrigation  is  usually  neces- 
sary. The  so-called  self- blanching  varieties  are  best 
for  this  method. 

(4)  Blanchmg  in  storage  is  for  winter  Celery, 
which,  if  thoroughly  blanched  when  taken  from  the 
field,  will  sometimes  rot  in  storage.  For  this  method 
the  rows  are  not  set  more  than  two  feet  six  inches 
apart,  and  earthed  up  once,  to  secure  upright  growth 
and  to  start  the  blanching.  At  the  approach  of  winter 
the  plants  are  taken  up,  the  roots  trimmed  and  then 
packed  closely  together  in  pits,  sheds  or  boxes  in  the 


84 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


cellar;  there  they   ^vi]l  complete   their    blanching.      If 
tied    when  earthed,    they    can    be    more   conveniently 
handled. 

Other  methods  of  blanching,  on 
a  small  scale  or  for  exhibition, 
consist  chiefly  in  tying  the  plants 
in  an  upright  position  with  soft 
cord,  worsted  or  "  paper  twine,'"* 
and  wrapping  with  paper  or  cov- 
ering with  drain-tiles.  These  plants 
are  often  earthed  as  well,  especially 
in  cold  weather. 

Storage. — Methods  are  as  numer- 
ous as  for  blanching,  in  pits  or  in 
empty  coldframes,  in  trenches,  or  in 
the  rows  as  earthed  up,  covered  with  matting,  straw, 
boards,  tar-paper,  or  glass,  to  exclude  frost  and  mois- 
ture. Houses  are  often  specially  built.  For  home 
storage,  the  following  method  is  probably  the  best  on 
a  small  scale.  In  a  box  somewhat  deeper  than  the 
plants,  put  two  or  three  inches  of  sand,  soil,  or  coal 
ashes.  Take  up  the  plants,  trimming  the  masses  of 
roots  to  small  cubes  with  the  spade,  and  pack  them 
closely  in  the  box.  Set  in  a  cool  cellar,  with  little  light, 
and  occasionally  water  the  plants  by  means  of  a  funnel 
or  long  pipe,  or  through  holes  bored  in  the  sides  of  the 
box  above  the  roots,  taking  care  not  to  wet  the  leaves. 
The  plants  will  complete  their  blanching,  and,  if  the 


Fis.  «. 
Celery  plants  set  in  a 
trench  for  early  win- 
ter storage. 


CELERY 


85 


room  is  not  too  warm  or  moist,  will  keep  for  a  number 
of  months. 

Diseases. — Against  leaf-blight,  spray  with  Bordeaux 
when  the  plants  are  young;  later  with  a  weak  solution 
of  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  every  two  weeks.  For 
leaf-spot,  use  healthy  seed  on  healthy  land  and  spray 
early  and  regularly  with  Bordeaux.  Against  storage 
diseases,  store  in  a  dry  place. 

Pests  are  seldom  bothersome.  For  the  lettuce-  and 
other  worms  and  for  the  celery-caterpillar,  use  insect 


Fig.  i4.    Celery  stored  for  winter  in  a  pit.    The  pit  is  roofed  with  boards 
to  keep  out  rain,  and  covered  with  hay  against  the  cold. 

powders  when  the  dew  is  on.    Hellebore  and  pyrethrum 
are  the  safest  to  use. 

For  flea-beetles,  Bordeaux;  tobacco  in  powder  or 
decoction.  For  the  two  tortrixes,  pyrethrum  and 
water,  sprayed  forcibly.  For  aphis,  kerosene  emulsion 
or  tobacco  water.  For  the  little  negro-bug,  carbolic 
acid,  a  teaspoonful  to  two  gallons  of  water,  carbolic 


86  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

acid  emulsion  of  the  same  relative  strength,  or  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  carbolic  acid  to  one  bushel  of  lime,  dusted 
on.  For  Celery  borer,  hand  picking.  For  thrips,  see 
Onion. 

CELERY,    KNOB    or    TURNIP  -  ROOTED.     See 

Celeriac. 

CHAMOMILE.    See  Camomile. 

CHARD  {Beta  vulgaris  or  B.  Cycla\  variously  known 
in  its  varieties  as  Swiss  Chard,  Silver  Beet,  Leaf  Beet, 
Kale  or  Sea- kale  Beet,  Swiss  Beet,  Spinach  Beet,  and 
Asparagus  Beet,  is  a  vegetable  little  known  in  this 
country,  and,  though  sometimes  found  in  the  markets, 
not  offered  by  all  our  seedsmen.  Yet  it  deserves  to  be 
better  known,  on  account  of  its  productiveness,  quick 
growth,  and  simple  culture,  as  well  as  for  its  capacity  of 
yielding  a  double  crop,  in  two  senses.  It  bears  a  thick, 
broad  leaf  upon  a  fleshy  stalk;  when  picked,  the  leaves 
may  be  served  as  spinach,  the  stalks  or  midribs  of  the 
leaves  as  Chards  (see  under  Artichoke).  The  plants  can 
be  stripped  of  all  but  their  small  leaves  and  will  bear 
again,  or  the  large  leaves  may  be  picked  through  an  ex- 
tended season.  The  plants  grow  quickly;  thinnings  may 
be  transplanted.  Although  the  plant  is  of  the  beet  familv, 
its  root  is  inconsiderable  as  food.  Chard  is  very  hardy 
and  will  stand  severe  frosts.    V^arieties  are  several  (ac- 


CHARD 


87 


cording  to  color  and  to  the  size  of  the  stalks,  which 
varies  considerably)  but  are  little  offered  in  America.  No 
serious  pests  or  diseases. 

Soil. — Any  moder- 
ately rich  garden  soil, 
not  too  wet. 

Distances.  —  Row  s 
eighteen  to  twenty-one 
inches,  or,  if  the  plants 
are  to  be  allowed  to 
grow  individually  to 
their  full  size,  two  feet 
apart. 

Depth,  an  inch  or 
less. 

Sow  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked, 
and  for  succession  every 
three  or  four  weeks. 

Thin  at  first  to  three 
inches  in  the  rows. 
Thinnings  may  be  trans- 
planted. 

Fertilizer. — Nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure,  applied 
at  intervals  throughout  the  season. 

Management. — ^A  row  of  Chard  is  best  managed  as 
follows  :  Thin  when  the  plants  are  about  six  inches  tall, 
to  three  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  the  thinnings  to  be 


whole  plant, 
the  white  leaf-stalks,  which,  as  well 
as  the  leaves,  are  used  for  the  table. 


88  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

eaten,  leaves  and  ribs  together.  Thin  again  to  six 
inches,  and  again  to  a  foot  or  more.  When  the  ribs  or 
stalks  are  large  enough,  they  may  be  used  separately 
from  the  leaves.  When  the  plants  stand  a  foot  to 
eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  pull  the  leaves  as 
needed,  or  strip  from  the  plants  all  but  the  interior 
head,  leaving  that  to  grow  again.  In  this  way  the 
plants  will  yield  for  a  considerable  time.  The  varieties 
of  which  the  midribs  are  small  may  be  managed  in 
much  the  same  manner,  serving  leaf  and  stalk  together, 
and  not  thinning  to  more  than  a  foot. 

Forrhig. — Chard  may  be  raised  under  glass ;  or  the 
plants  may  be  covered  in  the  open  as  winter  approaches, 
and  will  give  repeated  pickings.  Lifted  with  balls  of 
earth  and  taken  into  a  greenhouse  or  put  into  a  mild 
hotbed,  they  will  yield  for  a  long  time. 

CHERRY,  BLADDER,  GROUND  or  WINTER.  See 
Tomato,  Strawberry. 

CHERVIL.  There  are  two  plants  of  the  name 
(for  Sweet-scented  Chervil,  see  Sweet  Cicely). 

(1)  Salad  or  Leaf  Chervil  {Scandix  cerefolium).  An 
annual  plant  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  in  salads  and 
garnishing.  It  is  much  esteemed  in  Europe,  especially 
by  the  French,  and  is  the  chief  ingi*edient  oi fines  herbes. 
It  is  very  hardy  to  frost,  but  tender  to  heat;  in  our 
climate  it  needs  a  cool  location,  or  it  will  soon  run  to 


CHERVIL  89 

seed.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  plain  and  the  cm-led ; 
Vilmorin-Andrieux  points  out  that  the  latter,  being 
unmistakable,  cannot  be  used  instead  of  the  poisonous 
plants  of  its  family,  the  Umbelliferas.  No  serious  dis- 
eases or  pests  are  reported. 

Soil. — Ax\y  good  soil,  but  preferably  cool  and  moist. 
In  summer  should  have  shade  or  a  northern  aspect. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  or  more  apart ;  plants  eight 
to  ten  inches  in  the  row. 

Depth. — Shallow, — about  one-fourth  inch. 

Sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 

Thin,  early  to  eight  or  ten  inches  in  the  row. 

Pick  when  the  leaves  are  full  grown.  Several  cut- 
tings are  possible  from  the  plant,  through  the  season. 
Mature  in  six  to  eight  weeks. 

Successional  sowing  in  late  summer,  for  fall  use, 
will  be  necessary  where  summers  are  hot. 

Protection. — The  plants  can  be  wintered  in  a  cold- 
frame,  and  the  leaves  picked  through  a  mild  winter.  In 
the  open  they  will  live  through  under  a  light  covering, 
except  where  winters  are  severe. 

(2)  Turnip-rooted  Chervil  (Bulbous-rooted  or  Tu- 
berous Chervil ;  Chwrophyllinn  hulbosum)  is  a  biennial  or 
plur-annual  plant,  grown  for  its  tuberous  roots,  which 
are  used  like  carrot,  although  gray  in  color,  and 
sweeter.  It  is  of  difficult  management,  the  seeds  being 
of  short  germinating  power,  and  germinating  slowly,  if 
at  all,  when  kept  dry  over  winter.    The  roots  mature 


90  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

usually  in  July,  when  the  foliage  begins  to  die,  but  the 
tubers  improve  by  remaining  in  the  ground. 

Soil  moist. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  inches  apart. 

Depths  about  one-half  inch. 

Soiv. — It  is  best  to  stratify  the  seeds  over  winter  ; 
they  will  start  soon  after  sowing  in  the  spring,  when 
ground  is  fit.  Otherwise  sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  the 
fall ;  fall-sown  seed  will  sometimes  wait  a  year  before 
sprouting. 

Thin  to  six  inches  in  the  rows. 

Harvest  late  in  the  fall. 

Store  in  sand  in  the  cellar,  away  from  frost. 

CHICORY,  Succory,  or  AVild  Endive  (see  Endive), 
Chicorium  Intyhus^  is  a  plant  of  somewhat  varied  uses, 
well  known  in  Europe,  but  not  yet  known  in  America 
in  all  its  possibilities.  Commercially,  the  large-rooted 
varieties  are  now  cultivated  in  America  for  the  roots, 
used  as  a  substitute  for  and  adulterant  of  coffee.  In 
the  garden,  Chicory  may  be  grown  as  a  root  or  a 
salad  crop,  its  roots  being  best  when  young  and  its 
leaves  when  blanched  or  forced.  The  roots  are  cooked 
like  carrot;  the  leaves  are  cut  up  for  salads  or  boiled 
like  Brussels  sprouts.  The  roots  are  hardy  and  will  live 
over  winter,  producing  a  new  crop  of  leaves  in  the 
spring,  after  which  they  will  be  of  little  value.  \\\- 
morin-Andrieux   gives  six  varieties;    American  seeds- 


CHICORY 


91 


men,  when  they  have  the  seeds  at  all,  seldom  offer 
more  than  three  kinds.  Enemies  of  Chicory  are  not 
troublesome. 

The  plant  is  cultivated  according  to  the  results 
desired.  Grown  for  the  leaves  without  blanching  or 
forcing,  the  roots  are  allowed  to  remain  a  few  inches 
apart  in  the  row,  and  the  leaves  cut  when  six  to  eight 


Fig.  46.    Seedlings  of  Chicory.    Two-thirds  natural  size 

inches  long,  several  times  in  the  season.  They  are 
bitter,  like  dandelion,  and  are  best  cooked  in  two 
waters.  The  especial  delicacies  from  Chicory  are,  how- 
ever, the  Blanched  Chicory,  the  Barbe  de  Capucin,  and 
the  Witloof,  all  of  which  can  be  grown  from  any 
variety  according  to  the  system  of  management, 
although  for  the  last  two  the  larger  varieties  are  best. 
These  are  the  Large-rooted  (Brunswick  or  Magdeburg), 
which  is  the  Chicory  of  commerce,  and  the  Witloof 
or  Brussels. 

Soil. — If  not  raised  for  forcing,  any  good  garden 


92  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

soil  M'ill  do.  For  forcing  or  for  the  roots,  Chicory  grows 
best  in  a  deep  loam,  in  good  tilth,  not  rich  in  nitro- 
gen or  recently  manured,  and  with  an  open  subsoil. 
Commercially,  "it  may  be  said  to  thrive  upon  all  stone- 
free  soils  that  will  produce  paying  staple  crops,  except 
clays  (too  hard),  lightest  sands  (too  dry)  and  mucks 
(too  rich  in  nitrogen  and  too  sour)."  (Cyclopedia  of 
American  Horticulture.) 

Dhitances. — Rows  fifteen  inches  to  two  feet. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Soiv  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Sow 
thickly  for  green  leaves  or  outdoor  blanching;  thinly, 
for  the  roots  or  for  forcing. 

Thin  to  two  to  three  inches  in  the  row  for  leaves, 
six  to  eight  inches  for  roots  or  for  forcing. 

Culture  as  for  carrots  or  salsify. 

Fertilizer. — As  .for  root  crops :  little  nitrogen,  good 
amounts  of  phosphoric  acid  and  potash.  Commercially, 
should  not  follow  clover,  but  if  the  plants  are  grown 
for  the  leaves,  nitrogen  may  be  given. 

Cut  the  leaves  when  young,  six  to  eight  inches  long, 
and  as  often  as  they  grow  again.  After  the  last  fall 
cutting,  the  roots  may  be  left  in  the  ground  over 
winter  for  a  spring  cutting. 

Blanching  out-of-doors  is  the  same  as  for  endive, — 
by  pots,  boards,  or  by  earthing  up.  The  leaves  are,  for 
this  purpose,  allowed  to  grow  to  a  foot  or  more  in 
length    before  cutting  off  the   light.    They  are   more 


CHICORY  98 

tender  and  less  bitter  when  blanched  than  when  green. 

Roots  for  the  table  should  be  taken  up  when  small, 
four  to  six  inches  long. 

For  forcings  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  all 
summer,  without  cutting  the  tops ;  in  the  -fall  the  roots 
should  be  from  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  diameter  in 
the  Witloof,  larger  in  the  Magdeburg.  Products  of 
forcing  are  the  Barbe  de  Capucin  and  Witloof. 

(1)  Barbe  de  Capucin.  Until  quite  recently  this 
was  grown  even  in  France  from  the  common  Chicory ; 
of  late  years  the  larger  varieties  have  been  used  with 
success,  when  not  full  grouTi.  Take  up  the  roots  as 
they  come,  without  trimming  or  shortening,  cutting 
only  the  tops  to  within  an  inch  of  the  crown.  Lay  them 
in  sand  in  tiers,  in  boxes  or  the  floor  or  bench,  the 
crowns  showing  for  about  an  inch;  the  heap  when 
formed  will  have  a  backward-sloping  face;  earth  may 
be  used  instead  of  sand.  Moisten,  and  cover  from  the 
light,  leaving  room  for  the  leaves  to  grow.  The  tem- 
perature of  an  ordinary  cellar  will  do,  best  at  55^  to 
60°.  In  about  twenty  days,  loose  blanched  leaves  may- 
be cut,  and  often  a  second  and  third  crop.  A  succession 
may  be  kept  up  through  the  winter. 

(2)  Witloof  is  best  grown  from  the  Witloof  or 
Brussels  Chicory,  though  the  Magdebm-g  will  serve. 
Take  up  the  roots  in  the  fall,  discarding  all  with  more 
than  one  crown,  or  with  very  narrow  or  divided  leaves. 
Trim  to  a  uniform  length  of  eight  to  ten  inches.    Out- 


94  THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

of-door  forcing  may  be  done  in  a  trench,  setting  the 
roots  upright  one  and  one-half  to  two  inches  apart, 
eight  inches  below  the  surface,  and  covering  with  light 
soil ;  then  heap  with  warm  manure  to  a  depth  of  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet.  In  about  a  month  the 
Witloof,  like  a  close  head  of  Cos  lettuce,  will  be 
formed. 

But  forcing  is  best  done  indoors,  under  a  green- 
house bench,  or  in  a  warm  cellar,  the  roots  plunged  in 
soil  or  tanbark  up  to  their  crowns,  and  covered  with 
about  two  feet  of  manure;  in  this  way  a  quicker 
result  is  secured.  When  the  Witloof  is  cut,  if  the 
roots  are  left  in  place,  smaller  leaves,  loose  like  the 
Barbe  de  Capucin,  will  be  produced  for  a  second  crop. 

CHINESE  PRESERVING  MELON.  See  Water- 
melon. 

CHIVE  or  Chives.    See  Cive. 

CHUFA,  or  Rush-Nut  {Cyperus  rotundus  or  C. 
esculentus),  is  a  species  of  sedge,  whose  tuberous  roots, 
or  "nuts,"  less  than  an  inch  long,  are  much  liked  in 
the  South,  and  in  the  south  of  Europe,  when  eaten 
baked  or  raw.  The  flavor  is  sweet ;  the  nuts  are  some- 
times ground  to  make  a  kind  of  coffee.  The  plant  is  lit- 
tle grown  in  the  North,  where  it  does  not  mature  well. 

Soil. — Moist. 


CHUFA— GIVE 


95 


Distances. — Rows  a  foot  or  more  apart. 

Depth. — Tubers,  one  to  two  inches,  root  divisions  as 
before.    Set  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Dig  in  the  fall,  and  store  fi-om  frost.  The  nuts 
become  sweeter  as  they  dry. 

CIBOULE.    See  Onion,  Welsh. 

CITRON.    See  Watermelon. 


CIVE,  Chive  or  Chives,  or  Chive-garlic  (Allium 
Schcenoprasum)  is  a  plant  of  the  onion  family,  peren- 
nial and  hardy.  It  is  grown 
for  its  leaves,  which  have  a 
mild  onion  flavor  and  are  used 
in  seasoning.  They  may  be 
cut    throughout    the    season.  ^ 

No  varieties,  diseases  or  pests.  V^i 
Propagated  by  seed  or  roots. 

Soil. — Any    good    garden 
soil. 

Distances.  —  Rows  a  foot 
or  more  apart,  plants  six 
inches  or  a  foot  in  the  row.  The  roots  of  Cive,  however, 
rapidly  multiply  into  clumps,  so  that  it  is  best  grown 
in  solid  rows  if  in  any  quantity,  and  is  often  used  for 
an  edging,  where  its  small  violet  sterile  flowers  are 
handsome. 


Fig.  47.    A  clump  of  Cive. 


96  THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

Depth  of  seed,  one-half  inch.  Of  roots,  the  same  as 
before. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit;  set  out  roots  in  April. 

Thin  seedlings  to  six  inches  in  the  rows;  thinnings 
can  be  transplanted. 

Cut  the  leaves  (when  the  plants  are  well  estab- 
lished) as  wanted  throughout  the  season. 

Protection  is  scarcely  needed  except  in  very  cold 
winters. 

Reset  the  roots,  by  taking  up  and  dividing,  every 
three  or  four  years. 

Winter  the  plants  in  boxes  in  the  house,  for  use  as 
needed. 

CLARY  {Salvia  sclarea)  is  an  herb  now  little  known, 
grown  for  its  leaves,  used  in  seasoning,  especially  of 
soups.  It  is  a  perennial,  but  best  cultivated  as  an 
annual  or  biennial. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Rows  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches. 

Depths  about  one  inch. 

Sow  thinly,  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  or  in  a 
seed-bed  when  the  ground  is  warm. 

Thin  to  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches,  or  transplant 
from  the  seed-bed  to  the  above  distances,  when  two  to 
three  inches  tall. 

Culture. — Preserve  surface  mulch,  or  mulch  with 
manure. 


COLEWORT— COLLARDS 


97 


Pick  the  leaves  when  the  plant  is  well  established, 
usually  in  midsummer,  and  at  intervals  until  the  plant 
goes  to  seed,  which  is  usually  in  the  second  summer. 
After  seeding,  the  plant  is  of  less  value. 

Protection. — Cover  with  straw  or  litter. 

Renew  from  seed,  or  by  cuttings  taken  in  spring; 
shade  the  cuttings  and  water  till  they  start. 


COLEWORT.  The  cabbage  or  allied  plants  when 
grown  as  a  pot-herb  and  cut  for  use  when  young,  be- 
fore heading. 


Fig.  48.  A  plant  of  Collards. 

COLLARDS.  A  form  of  kale,  grown  chiefly  in  the 
South,  where  the  cabbage  will  not  head,  and  not  par- 
ticularly prized  in  the  North  where  true  cabbages  can 


98  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

be  grown.  A  seed-bed  crop.  Best  known  variety  is  the 
Georgia  Collard.  The  word  Collard  is  also  used  for 
young  cabbages,  planted  thickly  in  rows  and  picked 
when  voung  for  use  as  greens. 

*SV;//. — Rich  and  moist. 

Distances,  three  to  four  by  three  feet  when  set  out. 
Rows  in  the  seed-bed  a  foot  or  more  apart,  as  convenient. 

Depth,  about  an  inch. 

Sow  in  the  North  in  July  or  early  August. 

Thin  in  the  seed-bed  when  well  up,  to  three  or  four 
inches  apart. 

Transplant  at  six  inches  or  more. 

Fertilize!'  as  for  cabbage. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted. 

Disease  and  pests  are  those  common  to  the  cabbage 
tribe.    See  Cabbage. 

Succession. — Sow  fortnightly. 

CORIANDER  {Coriandrum  sativum),  an  annual  herb 
grown  for  its  seeds,  used  in  confectionery  and  in  the 
manufacture  of  liqueurs,  as  well  as  for  seasoning  in 
cooking.  A  hardy  plant,  easily  grown,  except  as  noted 
below. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  but  a  light,  warm  loam 
is  best.  Yet  on  some  soils  Coriander  will  not  produce 
seed. 

Distances. — Rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  plants  one 
foot  or  more  in  the  row. 


CORIANDER— CORN 


99 


Depths  about  one  inch. 
Sow  in  fall  or  early  spring. 
Culture. — Give    ordinary  culture. 
Pklc  the  seeds  when  ripe  ;  or  pick  whole  plant  and 
let  it  dry  on  a  sheet,  on  which  shake  out  the  seeds. 


Fig.  49.    Kernels  of  Corn  on  the  cob.  one-half  natural  size. 
Pop-corn  in  front,  Sweet  Corn  behind. 

CORN,  or  Sweet  Corn,  is  developed  from  the  Indian 
Maize  {Zea  Mays)-,  it  is  often  called  Sugar  Corn.  Of 
great  importance  as  a  market-garden  and  a  commercial 
crop,  it  is  also  much  grown  in  American  vegetable-gar- 
dens.   Being  very  tender,  it  is  not  planted  till  danger 


100  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

of  frosts  is  over,  and  is  killed  by  the  first  real  frost  in 
the  fall.  The  warmest  and  "  quickest "*'*  of  soil  should 
be  chosen;  the  ground  should  be  rich,  and  well  sup- 
plied with  quickly  available  fertilizers.  A  handful  of 
chemical  fertilizer  beneath  each  hill  is  well  applied 
whenever  possible  ;  for  small  gardening  operations  Corn 
is  occasionally  started  under  glass,  and  set  out  when  the 
weather  is  w^arm.  Corn  may  be  forced  under  glass  under 
much  the  same  conditions  as  tomato  or  eggplant.  For 
table  use,  the  ear  is  picked  when  the  kernels  are  plump 
and  well  filled,  but  before  it  is  ripe.  \^arieties  are  early 
(dwarf)  and  late.  The  chief  Corn  diseases  are  smut  and 
blight.    Pests  are  many. 

Soil. — Warm  and  light,  but  with  a  good  supply  of 
moisture,  and  a  sunny  exposure.  Soil  should  be  rich. 
In  rotations.  Corn  follows  clover  well. 

Hill  or  Drill  Culture. — Corn  is  usually  grown  in 
hills,  with  three  plants  in  the  hill ;  but  in  intensive 
gardening,  Com  is  often  grown  in  drills,  which  ^ith  a 
little  more  work  and  with  less  development  of  each 
plant,  and  also  with  the  stalks  less  able  to  support 
each  other  against  the  wind,  will  produce  more  ears  to 
a  given  area. 

Distances  are  entirely  according  to  variety,  rows 
from  two  and  one-half  to  four  feet  apart ;  hills  in  the 
row  the  same,  single  plants  a  foot  to  eighteen   inches. 

Depth. — In  spring,  about  an  inch;  later,  one  and 
one-half  to  two  inches. 


CORN 


101 


Sow. — Under  glass,  for  setting  out,  in  April.  In 
the  open,  when  danger  of  frosts  is  over.  If  the  ground 
is  cold  or  wet,  sow  thickly  in  the  rows,  ten  to  twelve 
kernels  in  the  hill.  Ordinarily,  sow  thinly  in  the  rows, 
five  to  six  kernels  in  the  hill. 

Thin  to  three  plants  in  the  hill,  or  in  the  row  to 


•ir'* 


Fig.  50.    Seedlings  of  Sweet  Corn,  nearly  natural  size. 

twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  according  to  height  of 
variety. 

Set  out  plants  started  under  glass  after  the  middle 
of  May,  or  when  frosts  are  past. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch,  and  keep 
dowTi  the  weeds. 

Fertilizer. — Any  good  general  fertilizer,  liberally 
applied,  as  corn  is  an  exhaustive  crop;  should  be  rich 


102 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


in  nitrogen  for  a  sandy  soil.    Dress  once  with  nitrate  of 
soda  or  liquid  manure  when  the  plants  are  up. 

Maturity  is  according  to  variety, 
from  fifty-five  to  ninety  days. 
Pick  the  ears  as  they  are  fit. 
Succession. — A   late  crop  can  be 
had  in  a  favorable  season  by  plant- 


ing an  early  variety  about  the  mid- 


dle   of    July.     Plant    for    succession 
every  two  weeks  until  then. 

Storage  of  corn  is  only  of  the  ripe 
ears,  for  seed. 

Diseases. — Corn-smut  is  the  worst 
disease  affecting  corn,  its  dark  masses 
being  very  conspicuous;  the  plants 
yield  less,  and  if  the  fungous  growth 
attacks  the  ears,  these  are  ruined. 
Continuous  spraying  of  the  ground 
and  plants  will  control  smut  to  some 
extent,  but  is  too  expensive.  The 
best  preventives  are  collecting  and 
burning  all  smut  as  soon  as  it  shows, 
and  avoiding  all  manure  from  cattle  which  have  been 
fed  with  smutted  corn.  Use  only  healthy  seed.  The 
sorghum -head  smut  may  be  controlled  by  the  same 
means.  Corn  blight  is  destructive,  and  has  not  yet 
been  controlled  by  the  known  remedies. 

Com  pests  are  more  than  two  hundred  in  number, 


Fig.  51. 
Plant  of  Sweet  Corn 


CORN 


103 


the  worst  being  the  cutworm,  the  wireworm,  the  corn- 
stalk borer,  and  the  corn-worm  or  cotton-boll  worm. 
For  almost  all  of  them  late  fall  plowing,  and  di-essing 


Fig.  52.    An  ear  of  early  Corn. 

with  kainit,  one  thousand  pounds  per  acre,  are  advised. 

Rotation    is    also    of   value.    Against    cutworms    use 

poisoned  baits.   Against  wire  worms  dig  into  the  ground 

poisoned  sweetened  dough;  rotation,  clover  being  used 

for  the  grass  crop,  and  not  to  be  followed  by  corn  or 

potatoes.    For  the  corn- 

worm,     burn     infested 

stalks  and  ears.     For  the 

corn  bill -bug,  plant  late. 

For  the  corn-stalk  borer, 

burn  butts  of  corn ;  burn 

over  any    neighboring. 

marsh     land ;      rotation. 

For    the    southern    corn 

root-worm    do    not    plant         Fi^- 53.    Types  of  Corn.    A,  Sweet 
1  Corn.    B,  Fop-corn. 


104         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

with  squash  or  pumpkins;  for  its  beetle  spray  with 
Bordeaux  or  arsenicals,  or  both.  For  the  western  corn 
root-worm,  rotation  at  least  every  third  year;  keep  the 
soil  rich. 

CORN,  POP-.  Pop-corn  is  raised  for  its  mature 
ears,  whicli  are  dried  and  the  grains  popped  by  heat, 
for  cooking,  candy-making,  and  eating.  It  is  cultivated 
like  sweet  corn. 

CORN -SALAD,  Fetticus,  Vetticost,  or  Lamb's  Let- 
tuce ( Valerianella  olitorid)  is  an  annual  salad  -  plant 
grown  for  its  leaves,  which  are  very  mild  in  taste;  they 
are  occasionally  blanched,  and  sometimes  are  cooked  like 
spinach.  The  plant  is  tender  to  heat,  but  (except  for 
the  Italian  Corn-Salads)  hardy  to  frost,  and  is  chiefly 
grown  as  a  fall  and  spring  crop.    In  mild  winters  or 


Fig^,  54.    Seedlings  of  Corn-Salad.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

climates  it  may  be  gathered  out-of-doors  through  the 
winter;  for  M^nter  use,  however,  it  does  better  in  a 
coldframe.  It  may  be  planted  like  spinach  for  spring 
use,  and  will  winter  well  under  a  light  mulch.    Or  it 


CORN -SALAD  105 

may  be  sown  in  the  fall  for  an  early  spring  start.  It  is 
a  small  plant,  and  the  drills  may  be  less  than  a  foot 
apart  if  space  is  scant.  Vilmorin-Andrieux  names  nine 
varieties;  American  seedsmen  rarely  offer  more  than 
one. 

Soil. —  Should  be  rich;  old  manure  or  nitrogenous 
fertilizers,  previously  applied,  will  help  the  crop.  For 
fall  or  spring  sowing,  choose  a  light,  warm  soil;  for  a 
summer  crop,  choose  heavier  and  moister  land. 

Distances. — Drills  a  foot  apart,  or  even  nine  inches. 

Depth. — Very  shallow. 

Sow  thinly  in  late  August  for  a  crop  to  be  wintered 
in  the  open,  or  for  transference  to  a  coldframe.  For 
spring  crop  sow  in  late  September,  or  in  spring  as  early 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  As  the  plant  is  tender 
to  heat,  successional  sowings  are  rarely  tried. 

Thin  to  six  inches  in  the  rows.  Transplant  thin- 
nings. 

Preserve  soil  moisture;  water  in  drought. 

Fertilizer. — Liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda, 
weekly. 

Pick  the  leaves  when  the  plant  is  about  as  large  as 
half-grown  lettuce.  A  later  crop  can  be  had  from  the 
same  plant.  Plants  wintered  in  coldframes  will  con- 
tinue to  yield  through  a  mild  winter. 

Protect  young  plants  in  fall  under  a  light  mulch. 

Blanching  is  not  often  attempted,  the  leaves  not 
having  enough  flavor  to  stand  the  process. 


106         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

COSTMARY  or  Alecost  {Chrysanthemum  Balsamita 
tanacetokles)  is  a  little-grown  herb,  a  hardy  perennial, 
its  leaves  used  in  salads.  It  is  propagated  by  dividing 
the  roots. 

Soil. — Preferably  light,  well  drained  and  sunny. 

Distances. — Two  by  two  feet. 

Depth. — As  before. 

Set  out  root-divisions  in  spring  or  autumn.  Re-set 
every  three  or  four  years. 

Protect  lightly  in  the  North. 

CRESSES  are  best  reduced  to  three  classes.  ("In- 
dian Cress'"'  is  Tropoeolum  or  Nasturtium;  see  under 
Nasturtium. ) 

(1)  Cress,  Garden  Cress,  Common  Cress,  or  Pepper 
Cress  (Lepidium  sativum),  is  a  salad  and  garnishing 
plant,  very  popular  in  Europe  and  especially  in  the 
neighborhood  of  London,  where  with  mustard  some 
market-gardeners  use  as  much  as  500  bushels  of  seed 
in  a  season.  It  should  be  better  known  in  America, 
being  one  of  the  freshest  and  crispest  of  salad-plants, 
of  very  simple  cultivation.  Its  taste  is  slightly  peppery. 
A  valuable  characteristic  of  the  plant  is  its  rapid 
growth,  yielding  its  crop  in  from  three  to  four  w^eks; 
but  as  it  runs  quickly  to  seed,  successional  sowings  a 
week  or  more  apart  are  advisable.  The  plant  and  seed 
are  hardy.  When  the  seed-stalk  has  formed,  only  the 
young  leaves  are  palatable.     The    leaves    are  used  as 


CRESSES  107 

garnishing  or  for  salads,  and  are  picked  when  about 
three  inches  in  length.  Cress  is  usually  a  spring  or  fall 
crop,  not  being  so  good  in  summer.  Vilmorin-Andrieux 
gives  five  varieties,  but  American  seedsmen  seldom  offer 


Fig.  55.    Seedlings  of  Garden  Cress.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

more  than  the  common  and  the  curled.  Its  chief  enemy 
is  the  flea-beetle. 

Soil. — Preferably  moist,  cool  and  rich,  but  any  good 
garden  soil  will  do. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  apart. 

Depth. — Shallow;  about  one-fourth  inch. 

Sow  thickly,  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit  in  spring, 
and  at  weekly  intervals  till  warm  weather;  begin  again 
at  the  middle  of  August  for  fall  succession. 

Thinning  is  scarcely  necessary. 

Culture. — Preserve  soil-moisture. 

Pick  when  from  three  to  six  inches  tall;  cut  the 
leaves  and  leave  roots  to  develop  a  second  crop.  Or 
pick  as  wanted. 

In  the  house  Cress  can  be  easily  grown,  in  pots  or 
boxes,  by  a  sunny  window. 


108         THE   BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

(2)  Upland  Cress,  in  two  varieties — Barharea  vul- 
garis and  B.  prcecox — is  known  as  Broad-leaved  Winter, 
American,  Belleisle,  Hardy,  and  Scurvy  Cress.  It  is  a 
hardy  plant;  the  seeds  may  be  left  in  the  gromid  over 
winter,  to  sprout  in  the  spring.  It  resembles  Water 
Cress  in  form  and  flavor;  like  garden  Cress,  it  is  best 
grown  as  a  fall  or  spring  salad,  the  leaves  becoming 
tough  and  bitter  in  summer.  As  the  leaves  lie  flat  on 
the  ground,  they  are  often  soiled  by  heavy  rains.  It  is 
of  later  maturity  than  Garden  Cress,  requiring  about 
seven  weeks.  The  varieties  are  very  slightly  distin- 
guished. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  not  too  dry. 

Distances.    Drills  one  foot  apart. 

Depth. — About  one-half  inch. 

Sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit,  and  again  in  mid- 
July  for  a  fall  crop.  Or  sow  in  September  for  an  early 
spring  start. 

Thin  to  four  to  six  inches. 

Pick  at  about  four  inches,  and  again  as  the  leaves 
grow. 

Successional  sowings  are  not  usual,  as  the  plant 
does  not  bear  heat. 

(3)  Water  Cress  {Nasturtium  officinale)  is  a  hardy 
perennial  aquatic  plant,  grown  for  its  leaves,  which  are 
used  as  garnishings,  salads,  and  even  for  boiled  greens. 
It  flourishes  naturally  in  slow-running,  shallow  water, 
or  at  the  edges  of  springs,    but  with  care  may  be  cul- 


CUCUMBER  109 

tivated  in  shady  land,  well  watered.  It  is  propagated 
from  seeds  or  root-divisions,  and  may  be  started  in 
flats  under  glass.  If  cultivated  in  the  garden,  choose  a 
shady  spot  Avith  good  loam,  fork  in  manure,  and  mix 
in  sand  or  gravel.  Watering  should  be  fi-equent.  It 
may  be  grown  on  the  outer  edge  of  a  hotbed,  or  will 
do  well  in  an  unused  frame.    Varieties  are  few. 

Soil  should  not  be  muddy. 

Distances. — In  flats,  rows  a  couple  of  inches  apart, 
or  broadcast;  prick  out  once.  Outdoors,  rows  nine 
inches  apart;  or  set  roots  six  inches  apart  each  way. 

Depth  about  one-fourth  inch  for  seed;  roots  as  be- 
fore. 

SoTi)  under  glass  in  April;  in  the  open  at  any  time 
during  spring  or  summer. 

Set  out  house-raised  seedlings  early  in  May. 

Pick  w^hen  well  established ;  pick  the  leaves  only, 
not  the  roots,  and  the  supply  will  continue  indefinitely. 

Succession. — The  plants  will  multiply  under  favor- 
able circumstances,  by  their  own  seeds  and  roots. 

Winter  groiving  of  Water  Cress  is  possible  in  the 
house  or  under  glass,  from  roots  taken  up  and  kept  in 
good  loam,  in  a  warm  and  moist  place. 

CUCUMBER  (Ciwumis  sativus)  is  an  annual  semi- 
tropical  fruiting  vine;  fruits  are  picked  while  immature, 
and  used  for  salads,  for  pickling,  and  occasionally  for 
cooking.    It    is  very  tender   to    frosts,  and    for    early 


110 


THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


Cucumber  seeds  are  started  under  glass;  as  the  young 
vines  transplant  with  difficulty,  pots  or  inverted  sods 
are  advisable.  A  continuous  picking  is  usually  possible 
once  the  fruits  have  set;  in  fact,  if  a  fruit  is  allowed 
to  ripen,  the  yield  of  the  plant  is  at  once  lessened, 
but  early  solitary  fruits  should  be  picked,  to  aid  a 
more  profuse  crop.    If  the  plant  runs  to  vine,  pinch- 


Fig.  56.    Seeding  of  Cucumber.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

ing  off  the  end  will  often  help  fruiting.  Varieties 
classify  (Cyclopedia  of  American  Hoi-ticulture):  (1) 
English  Forcing  Cucumbers  (seldom  grown  in  Amer- 
ica except  for  private  use.)  (2)  Field  Varieties. — {a) 
Black  Spine  type,  (b)  White  Spine  type.  Other  Cucum- 
bers are  the  Sikkim,  the  Snake  or  Serpent,  and  the 
West  India  Gherkin.  (Ordinary  Cucumbers  picked 
when  small  are  often  called  gherkins.)  Cucumber 
culture  is  invariably  in  hills.  Pests  are  numerous  and 
very  troublesome. 


CUCUMBER  111 

Soil. Any  good  garden  soil,  but  preferably  light 

and  neither  dry  nor  wet.  Cucumber  soil  should  be  in 
the  best  of  tilth,  rich,  and  "quick."  Into  each  hill  well- 
rotted  manure  should  be  spaded,  and  a  handful  of 
chemical  fertilizer  should  also  be  added.  Too  much 
nitrogen  in  the  soil  will,  however,  cause  the  plants  to 
run  to  vine. 

Distances.— YLWh  four  or  five  feet  each  way.  For 
large  late  varieties  four  by  six  feet  is  advisable.  A  hill 
should  be  about  two  feet  in  diameter. 

Depth.— \^vidiev  glass,  cover  seed  lightly.  Out-of- 
doors,  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch. 

^ow.— Under  glass,  in  April.  A  good  practice  is  to 
sow  several  seeds  in  a  five-  or  six-inch  pot,  half  filled ; 
when  the  plants  are  up,  pick  out  all  but  the  strongest ; 
fill  in  as  the  plant  grows  ;  transplanting  is  thus  avoided. 
Berry  baskets  may  be  used,  and  set  out  baskets  and  all. 
Or  sow  in  inverted  sods. 

Sow    out-of-doors  when    danger    of  frosts  is  over, 
about  June  1,  eight  to  ten  seeds  to  the  hill,  on  account 
of  insects.    Sow  for  pickles  in  June  and  early  July.    Let 
all  plants  grow  that  will,  until  it  is  evident  which  are 
the  strongest  against  their  pests,  when 
Thin  to  four  or  five  in  the  hill. 
Set  out  house-gromi  plants  when  danger  of  frosts  is 
over.    They  should  be  stocky  to  withstand  enemies,  and 
well  hardened  to  bear  the  sun  and  wind. 
Cultivate  till  the  vines  cover  the  ground. 


112  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Fertilizing  should  be  done  before  the  plants  are 
sown  or  set.  Nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  applied 
late  will  make  them  run  to  vine,  but  may  be  applied 
frequently  in  small  quantities  to  the  pickle  crop. 

Pi^k  any  early  single  fruit,  to  force  a  numerous 
growth.  Pick  all  fruits  when  of  proper  size,  even  if  not 
needed,  or  the  plant  will  cease  to  bear. 

Forcing  Cucumbers  is  very  extensively  practiced, 
under  conditions  favorable  to  melons  or  squashes. 

Diseases. — For  dowTiy  mildew  spray  with  Bordeaux, 
one  to  eight  strength,  "early,  constantly,  and  thor- 
oughly'' (New  York  Bulletin  No.  119)  if  necessary 
twice  a  week,  to  keep  the  leaves  well  covered  with  the 
mixture,  especially  in  humid  weather.  For  blight  or 
leaf- blight,  rotation.  For  anthracnose,  rotation  ;  burn 
diseased  vines.  For  wilt,  Bordeaux  and  rotation.  See 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  231. 

Pests. — Chief  is  the  striped  beetle,  for  which  sow 
four  days  before  the  Cucumber  trap-crops  of  squash, 
which  the  beetle  prefers.  AVhen  the  Cucumber  plants 
appear,  cover  with  netting  or  in  some  other  manner,  or 
preferably  spray  with  Bordeaux,  one  to  eleven;  "spray 
again  at  the  third  leaf,  and  at  the  third  time  just 
before  the  plants  begin  to  form  runners."  "When  the 
[squash]  trap  plants  are  up,  and  the  beetles  appear 
about  them,  dust  about  half  the  plants  w4th  green  arse- 
nite,  reserving  the  other  half  if  rain  or  heavy  dew 
makes    the  poison    soluble    and    kills  the    plants  first 


CUCUMBER  113 

treated.  .  .  When  the  beetles  commence  to  pair  [most 
of  J  the  squashes  may  be  cultivated  up,  leaving  only  a  few 
of  the  vines  for  the  beetles  to  feed  on  at  flowering  time, 
as  the  insects  prefer  the  squash  flowers  and  will  not 
molest  the  others.  Beans  may  be  used  with  some  suc- 
cess as  a  fall  catch  [trap]  crop."  (New  York  Bulletin 
No.  158.) 

Other  remedies  against  the  beetles  are  arsenites,  air- 
slaked  Ihne  (often  used  for  "driving"''  the  beetles,  by 
sowing  before  the  wind,  in  the  forenoon  ;  the  beetles 
will  fly  before  it  to  other  crops),  pyrethrum,  hellebore, 
plaster  saturated  with  kerosene  or  turpentine,  tobacco 
water  sprayed,  or  tobacco  powder.  Apply  powders 
when  the  leaves  are  wet,  and  get  on  both  sides  of  them. 
Or  start  the  plants  under  glass ;  set  out  the  early  crop 
as  soon  as  possible,  for  a  good  start  before  the  beetles 
appear ;  set  out  the  later  crop  as  late  as  possible,  to 
avoid  the  first  brood  of  the  pest.  Or  pick  bv  hand,  and 
trap  the  beetles  under  shingles  laid  about  the  patch. 

The  spotted  cucumber-beetle  may  be  fought  by  the 
same  means. 

Against  the  cucumber- worm  use  hellebore,  arsenites, 
hand-picking.    Exterminate  the  first  brood. 

Against  plant-lice,  spray  with  tobacco  water,  with 
one  pound  whale-oil  soap  to  every  fifty  gallons;  use  a 
bent  nozzle  to  reach  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Or 
use  bisulphide  of  carbon  in  a  small  plantation,  covering 
the  young  plants  with  an  inverted  bowl,  using  a  tea- 


114         THE   BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

spoonful  or  more  of  the  liquid  ;  leave  the  bowl  for  an 
hour ;  the  process  is  slow  but  sure.  Burn  all  rubbish  of 
the  patch. 

Against  the  cucumber  flea-beetle  use  arsenites,  Bor- 
deaux if  freely  used,  tobacco  decoction,  kerosene  emul- 
sion, Paris  green  with  land-plaster,  one  part  to  fifty. 

Against  all  pests,  keep  all  plants  growing  well  by 
good  fertilization  and  cultivation.  For  squash-vine 
borer  and  squash  bug,  see  under  Squash.  For  melon- 
louse,  see  Melon. 

CUMIN,  or  Cummin  (Cuminum  cymmum)^  is  well 
known  to  the  Bible  and  folk-lore.  The  seeds  are  offered 
by  some  American  seedsmen  among  their  herbs.  It  is 
an  annual  plant,  grown  for  its  fruit  or  seed,  which  is 
used  much  as  caraway-seed  in  bread-making,  flavoring, 
confectionery  and  liqueur-making,  being  aromatic  and 
slightly  peppery  in  flavor.  Sweet  Cumin  is  Anise. 
Black  Cumin  is  Nigella  sativa^  which  see. 

Soil. — Preferably  warm  and  quick,  well  drained. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  apart. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Soio  when  frosts  are  past,  about  June  1. 

Thinning  is  scarcely  necessary. 

Pick  the  seed  when  ripe. 

DANDELION  (IVmia'acnm  officinale)  is  our  common 
weed,  on  which  the  cultivated  varieties  are  great  im- 


DANDELION  115 

provements.  It  is  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  as  greens  and 
occasionally  for  garnishing.  Dandelion  is  usually  a  fall 
and  spring  crop,  being  mostly  sown  in  one  spring  and 
finished  in  the  next.  The  plants  may  be  started  under 
glass,  but  are  usually  grown  in  the  open,  sown  where 
they  are  to  stand,  requiring  little  care  except  to  pick 
off  all  flowers  so  that  they  shall  not  go  to  seed  and 
become  a  pest.  More  than  one  cutting  is  possible  from 
the  plants,  and  in  the  fall  they  may  be  protected  under 
frames  to  give  a  few  winter  cuttings.  It  is  possible  to 
use  in  the  garden  the  seed  of  the  wild  plants,  but  it  is 
best  to  get  the  seed  of  the  French  cultivated  varieties, 
of  which  seedsmen  offer  usually  one  or  more. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  especially  if  light;  the 
richer  the  better. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  apaii:. 

Depth . — Shallow. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  to  six  inches  or  more  in  the  rows.  Thinnings 
may  be  transplanted,  if  carefully  pulled. 

Cultivate  until  the  plants  cover  the  ground,  which 
they  will  do  before  midsummer,  if  set  one  foot  apart 
each  way. 

Fertilize  occasionally  with  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid 
manure. 

Pick  off  siW.  flowers. 

Cuttings  of  the  leaves  may  be  had  in  the  fall,  one 
or  more,   especially  if  covered  with  sash.    The  plants 


116         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

may  then  be  wintered  like  spinach,  under  a  Hght 
mulch. 

Blanching  of  the  leaves  is  possible  by  means  of 
boards  or  flower-pots  set  over  the  plants. 

Forcing  the  roots  like  chicory,  which  see,  will  give 
leaves  like  the  Barbe  de  Capucin.  Forced  or  blanched 
leaves  are  less  bitter. 

Spring  cutting  may  be  hastened  by  glass  over  the 
plants;  after  one  cutting  or  possibly  two,  they  are 
usually  pulled  up. 

DEW-PLANT.    See  Ice-Plant. 

DILL  {Anethum  graveolens),  a  biennial  herb,  grown 
as  an  annual  for  its  seeds,  which  taste  much  like  cara- 
way seeds,  but  are  more  bitter.  They  are  used  for  fla- 
voring, in  pickling,  and  in  medicine.  For  seasoning  tlie 
leaves  are  sometimes  used. 

Soil. — Any  well-drained  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  thinly,  preferably  in  spring,  when  the  ground 
is  fit;  autumn  sowing  is  possible  but  not  so  sure. 

Thin  to  eight  inches. 

Gather  the  seeds  when  ripe,  before  they  fall.  The 
plant  will  renew  itself  from  its  own  seeds,  if  allowed. 

DOCK.    See  Sorrel. 


EARTH  -  NUT—  EGGPLANT 
EARTH-NUT.    See  Peanut. 


117 


EGGPLANT,  Guinea-squash,  or  Aubergine  (Solarium 
melongena),  is  a  very  tender  annual  plant,  seldom  cul- 
tivated commercially 
with  us  north  of  New 
York  city,  and,  except 
in  the  southern  states, 
invariably  started  un- 
der glass.  It  is  grown 
for  its  large  fruits, 
which  are  edible  from 
one-third  the  full  size 
until  they  are  fully 
ripe.  The  culture  of 
Eggplant  is  much  like 
that  of  tomato,  though 
the  plants  require 
more  care;  they  must  not  receive  a  check  from  their 
first  starting,  in  order  to  get  good  results.  Conse- 
quently they  are  best  grown  in  pots  before  transferring 
to  the  open  ground.  Eggplants  are  always  grown  in 
hills,  which  should  be  made  rich  and  "quick";  two  or 
three  good  fruits  to  a  vine  is  a  satisfactory  crop. 
Varieties  are  practically  black  and  white,  and  large 
and  dwarf.  Black  are  required  for  the  market,  but 
white  are  excellent  for  home  use ;  the  dwarfs  are  much 
earlier  than  the  large,  and  are  to  be  recommended  for 


57.    Eggplant.    Pot-grown  plant  ready 
for  setting  in  the  garden. 


118 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


short-season  climates.    There  are   troublesome  diseases 
and  pests. 

Soil. — Eggplant  does  best  on  a  well-drained  sandy 
loam;  the  wetter  and  harder,  the  worse  for  the  crop. 
The  land  should  be  in  the  best  of  tilth,  and  very  rich 
and  quick.  Into  each  hill  fork  compost  and  a  handful  of 
high-grade  commercial  fertilizer,  best  in  the  formula  of 


-^ 


Fig  jS      "-iprix^  of  (U\arf  EtCo'pl«int     The  ch\<irf>>  are 
best  for  northern  culture. 

nitrogen  4  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid  8  per  cent,  potash 
10  per  cent.    A  sunny  exposure  is  desirable. 

Distances  are  according  to  variety;  dwarfs,  two  feet 
by  three  feet;  standards,  three  feet  by  four  feet.  If 
the  soil  is  verv  rich,  and  the  season  long,  more  room 
may  be  given. 


EGGPLAxXT 


119 


Depth. — About  one-half  inch ;   outdoors,  one  inch. 

Sozo  under  glass  in  March;  plants  mature  their 
fruit  in  from  120  to  150  days,  according  to  variety. 

Prick  out,  in  flats,  as  soon  as  they  crowd ;  and  again 
when  they  crowd  again.  Better  results  are  gained  from 
pot  culture,  repotting  fi*om  time  to  time  until  the  six- 


Fig.  59,    Eggplant.    The  common  oval  shape. 

inch  size  is  reached;  the  plants  may  be  a  foot  or  more 
in  height  before  setting  out  in  the  North.  They  should 
be  well  hardened-off". 

Set  outdoors  when  danger  of  frosts  is  well  over,  say 
the  first  or  second  week  in  June.  If  set  out  earlier, 
hand-glasses  may  be  needed,  or  some  similar  protec- 
tion. 


120 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


An  outdoor  crop  may  be  raised  in  a  favorable  season. 
Plant   when    frosts    are    past,    in    hills,    three    to    five 
seeds  to  a  hill,  and  thin  to  one.    Give  the  best  of  cul- 
tivation. 

Fertilizing  should 
be  done  before  set- 
ting out  (see  under 
Soil)  with  a  single 
application  of  nitro- 
gen or  liquid  ma- 
nure, after  setting. 

Cn  I  tu  re. — P  r  e- 

serve  the  surface- 

mulch   by  constant 

cultivation,  until 

the    plants    cover 

Fig.  60.   Eggplant.   A  round  type.  the  ground.    When 

three  or  four  fruits  are  set  to  each  vine,  pinch  off  the 

end,    and    also   any  subsequent  blossoms,  in  order  to 

produce  the  finest  fruits. 

Pick  the  fruit  as  needed  up  to  the  time  when  it  is 
almost  ripe.  The  young  fruits  are  edible;  if  they  are 
used,  several  may  be  allowed  to  set  to  a  vine.  Very 
ripe  fruits  are  unsatisfactory. 

Diseases. — The  chief  are  a  blig-ht-funcrus  and  a  leaf- 
blight,  for  each  of  which  destroy  affected  plants  and 
practice  rotation;  for  the  latter,  destroy  insects  that 
can  carry  infection,  and  spray  with  Bordeaux  until  the 


ELECAMPANE  121 

fruits  are  about  to  ripen,  when  use  a  clear  fungicide 
that  will  not  stain. 

Insects. — Against  cutworms,  use  protective  devices, 
such  as  collars  around  the  young  plants;  set  out 
poisoned  bran  or  clover  baits.  Dig  for  the  worm  near 
any  injured  plant.  Against  potato  bugs,  hand-picking, 
Paris  green  (1  pound  to  75-110  gallons  water)  and 
lime.  Against  aphis  and  plant-lice,  spray  with  tobacco 
water,  kerosene  emulsion,  pyrethrum,  or  hot  water, 
taking  care  to  reach  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves. 

ELECAMPANE  {Inula  Helenium)  is  a  perennial 
herb  grown  for  its  root,  used  in  various  domestic  reme- 
dies and  once  famous  for  use  in  pulmonary  troubles. 
It  is  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  roots. 
Often  found  growing  wild ;  few  seedsmen  offer  the 
seed. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Rows  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart, 
plants  eighteen  inches  in  the  row. 

Sow  seed  in  fall  or  spring,  thinly. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Thin  to  above  distances. 

Set  root -divisions,  cut  with  an  eye  in  each  piece,  at 
the  above  distances. 

For  use  the  roots  are  best  when  two  years  old  ; 
yearly  plantings  are  preferable,  the  plants  to  be  dug  in 
their  second  fall. 


122 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


ENDIVE  {CJikoriuni  Endivia)  is  the  French  Chicory, 
a  salad  plant  not  as  yet  properly  appreciated  in  America, 
for  it  can  be  made  to  follow  lettuce  in  the  hot  months, 
and  thus  to  give  salads  when  most  other  salad  plants 
are  at  their  worst.  Endive  matures  more  slowly  than 
lettuce,  requiring  about  seven  weeks.  To  be  at  its  best 
it  should  be  blanched,  for  otherwise  it  is  bitter  and 
slightly  tough  when  full  grown.  Picked  young  for 
either  salads  or  boiled  greens,  it  will  not  require  blanch- 
ing. Endive  is  hardy  to  frost,  and  may  be  sown  quite 
as  early  as  lettuce  outdoors,  or  may  be  started  under 
glass  and  set  out  when  the  ground  is  fit.    For  late  fall 


j.^^.;;'--'^ 


Fig.  61.    Seedlings  of  Endive.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

use,  Endive  is  often  transplanted  into  frames ;  or  for 
winter  use  it  is  taken  indoors  and  slowly  blanched  in 
storage.  Varieties  are  of  two  types, — the  curled  and 
the  broad-leaved;  the  curled  are  more  tender.  V'ilmorin- 
Andrieux  gives  thirteen  of  the  curled  and  seven  of  the 


ENDIVE  123 

broad-leaved,  with  two  intermediate;  American  seeds- 
men ofter  no  such  variety. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil.  It  should  be  rich  and 
"  quick." 

Distances. — Plants  should  stand  not  less  than  twelve 


Fig.  62.    Plant  of  curled  Endive,  tied  for  blanching. 

inches  apart  each  way,  except  for  small  varieties.  Rows 
apart  as  convenient. 

Depth. — Shallow,  about  one-fourth  inch. 

Sow. — Under  glass  in  March  or  April ;  transplant 
once  or  twice,  and  harden  off.  Sow  in  the  open  ground 
as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  to  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows.  Transplant 
thinnings.    The  house-grown  or  early  seedlings  do  not 


124         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

transplant  so  well  as  lettuce ;  and  they  have  more  of  a 
tendency  to  go  to  seed  than  the  August-sown  plants. 

Set  out  house-grown  plants  when  well  hardened  and 
the  ground  is  fit. 

For  fall  crop,  sow  Endive  in  late  July  or  in 
August. 

Pick  for  salad  or  for  greens  at  any  time  after  the 
leaves  are  four  inches  tall.  Or  cut  the  leaves  and  allow 
more  to  grow.  These  young  leaves  are  the  tenderest. 
"For  eating  cooked,  we  prefer  to  take  the  plants  quite 
young,  and  before  they  have  had  time  to  make  heads. 
With  ordinary  outdoor  culture,  they  will  lose  rather 
than  gain  in  tenderness  between  this  stage  and  the 
time  when  satisfactory  heads  can  be  produced." 
(Waugh,  Vermont  Bulletin,  No.  54.)  Once  headed, 
Endive  should  be 

Blanched  by  excluding  the  light  from  the  head  of 
the  plant.  This  is  done  in  a  variety  of  ways :  by  cover- 
ing with  boards  or  with  hay;  by  tying  the  heads;  by 
covering  with  a  drain -tile,  or  with  a  flower  pot  with 
the  hole  stopped.  Or  plant  in  a  trench  and  earth-up 
or  cover  over.  In  any  case,  the  plants  should  be  dry 
when  covered,  and  kept  so.  Blanching  is  completed  in 
from  ten  to  twenty  days,  according  to  conditions,  and 
when  it  is  finished  the  plants  should  be  used  at  once,  or 
they  will  decay. 

Fertilize  by  liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda,  every 
week  or  ten  days,  in  light  applications.    But  see  under 


EVENING    PRIMROSE— FENNEL         125 

Fertilizer  for  Lettuce.  It  seems  likely  that  manure 
would  similarly  benefit  Endive. 

In  the  fall  Endive  may  be  covered  with  sash,  and 
will  then  yield  very  late.  Or  transplant  into  sash  from 
the  open  ground,  about  September  1. 

Storage. — Endive  may  be  taken  up,  each  plant  with 
considerable  earth,  and  stored  in  a  dry  cellar  or  shed. 
The  plants  should  be  dry  when  lifted,  and  for  con- 
venience may  be  tied.  They  will  slowly  blanch  in 
storage,  and  when  blanched  should  be  used  at  once. 
They  may  similarly  be  stored  in  coldframes  out-of- 
doors,  at  the  approach  of  winter,  and  blanched  as  they 
are  required.    Place  the  plants  close  together. 

Pests. — See  under  Lettuce. 

EVENING  PRIMROSE  {(Enothera  biennis)  is  seldom 
grown  as  a  vegetable.  It  is  a  biennial  plant  with  a 
fleshy  tap-root,  and  bears  rosettes  of  leaves  with  flower- 
stalks.  Its  culture  is  like  that  of  salsify,  using  the  plant 
as  an  annual. 

Sow  in  soil  not  recently  manured,  in  drills  eighteen 
inches  apart,  depth  about  one  inch  ;  thin  to  nine  inches. 
Give  good  culture.  Lift  in  the  fall  and  store  in  sand, 
or  in  mild  climates  leave  in  the  ground  and  dig  as 
needed. 

FENNEL  is  of  three  kinds.  (For  Fennel-flower,  see 
Nigella.    Sea-Fennel  is  Samphire.) 


126  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

(1)  Common  Fennel,  also  Wild  or  Bitter  Fennel 
(Fceniculum  vulgar e)^  is  a  plant  little  known  in  America 
and  seldom  cultivated.  It  will  grow  in  any  soil,  rows 
two  or  more  feet  apart;  being  perennial,  it  will  seed 
itself  and  multiply  indefinitely  when  once  established. 
The  leaves  are  occasionally  used  for  seasoning,  and  the 
seeds  in  the  manufacture  of  liqueurs. 

(2)  Sweet  Fennel,  also  called  Garden  Fennel  and 
Long  Sweet  (Fceniculum  officinale),  is  a  biennial  usually 
treated  as  an  annual.  This  plant  is  much  more  stoutly 
stemmed  than  the  wild  or  common  Fennel ;  the  stems 
are  enclosed  in  the  leaf-stalks,  and  if  picked  when  ten- 
der, and  served  raw,  constitute  the  "Carosella"  of 
Naples,  there  considered  a  great  delicacy. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Drills  eighteen  inches  or  more  apart. 

Depth. — One  to  two  inches. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit.  In  mild  climates 
sow  in  late  September,  in  order  to  have  the  crop  come 
early  in  the  following  spring. 

Cut  the  stems  while  still  enclosed  in  the  leaf-stalks, 
and  when  young.    Serve  raw. 

Succession. — Sow  monthly. 

(3)  Florence  Fennel,  sometimes  called  Naples  Fen- 
nel {Fceniculum  dulce),  is  the  Finocchio  of  the  Italians, 
who  esteem  it  highly.  It  is  little  known  in  America;  its 
flavor  is  delicate,  slightly  resembling  celery,  but  sweeter. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 


FETTICUS— FEVERFEW  127 

Didances. — Rows  two  to  three  feet  apart,  plants 
thinned  to  six  inches  in  the  rows. 

Depth. — One  to  two  inches. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  and  again  for  succession 
in  about  a  month.  South  of  New  York,  sow  in  early 
August  for  fall  crops. 

Culture. — The  plant  forms  bulbous  enlargements  at 
the  bases  of  the  stems.  When  these  reach  the  size  of  a 
hen's  egg^  earth  up  around  the  group,  barely  covering 
the  outer  ones.  In  about  ten  days,  or  when  they  are 
blanched,  cut  the  outer  ones  and  earth  the  inner,  con- 
tinuing till  all  are  used.  More  commonly,  however,  the 
whole  plant  is  blanched  at  once  by  earthing  up,  like 
celery.    Serve  boiled. 

FETTICUS  is  Corn-Salad,  which  see. 

FEVERFEW,  a  name  sometimes  used  for  Agrimony, 
is  properly  Chrysanthemum  Parthenium,  formerly  used 
in  domestic  medicine,  by  means  of  a  bitter  tonic  made 
from  its  leaves,  and  efficient  in  the  cure  of  fevers. 
Feverfew  is  a  perennial  plant;  its  single  form  is  pre- 
ferred for  medicine.  Sometimes  it  is  called  Wild  Camo- 
mile. 

Sow  in  any  good  garden  soil  when  the  ground  is 
fit,  depth  about  an  inch,  rows  two  feet  apart,  plants 
one  foot  apart  in  the  rows.  Give  ordinary  culture  and 
pick  the  leaves  as  wanted. 


128  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

FOXGLOVE,  PURPLE  {Digital^  purpurea),  is  the 
common  Foxglove,  a  biennial  plant,  rarely  perennial, 
raised  from  seed.  The  leaves  of  the  second  year's 
growth  should  be  used,  and  are  considered  valuable  as 
a  sedative  and  diuretic.  Perennial  plants  may  be 
increased  by  root-division. 

Soil  should  be  light  and  rich,  but  not  dry.  The 
plant  will  bear  partial  shade. 

Distances. — Two  by  two  feet. 

Dep)th  one-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April,  prick  out,  and 
set  when  frosts  are  past.  Or  sow  when  the  ground  is 
fit,  and  thin. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care. 

Pick  the  leaves  in  the  second  year,  preferably  when 
the  plant  is  about  to  flower. 

FUMITORY,  or  Smoke  of  the  Earth  {Fumaria 
officinalis),  is  a  medicinal  herb,  formerly  much  used,  but 
now  quite  neglected.  Sow  in  good  soil  in  spring,  in 
rows  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  apart;  thin  to  one 
foot.    Give  ordinary  care,  and  pick  as  wanted. 

GARLIC  {Allium  sativum)  is  a  plant  of  the  onion 
family,  and  of  a  very  strong  odor  and  taste,  which 
is  stronger  still  when  the  plant  is  raised  in  a  northern 
climate.  It  is  grown  from  its  cloves  or  parts  of  the 
compound  bulbs;  the  outer  ones  are  best  for  sowing. 


GARLIC 


129 


In  mild  climates  these  can  be 
planted  in  the  fall,  to  begin 
growth  in  the  spring ;  otherwise, 
early  spring  is  the  time  to  plant. 
The  plant  is  seldom  offered  in 
America  in  any  variety. 

Soil  should  be  rich,  light, 
well  drained,  and  in  good  tilth. 
Garlic  sometimes  rots  in  wet 
soil. 

Distances.  —  Rows   a   foot 
apart,  cloves  three  to  six  inches 
apart  in  the  row.    Whole  bulbs  ^ 
one  foot  in  the  row. 

Depth. — Cover  the  cloves 
about  an  inch.  Or  plant  the 
compound  bulbs  whole,  not 
quite  covering. 

Sow  in  fall  in  mild  climates, 
or  in  spring  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  fit. 

Cultivate  the  same  as  for 
onions,  very  cleanly.  When  the 
tops  are  of  good  size,  in  early 
fall,  break  them  down,  to  allow 
the  bulbs  to  grow  larger. 

Pull  when  tops  are  dead. 

Store  in  a  dry  place.    Garlic 


Fig.  63.  Bulbs  of  G  a  r  1  i  c ,  as 
sometimes  prepared  for 
storage. 


130  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

bulbs   are  often   braided   together   by   their  tops  and 
hung  up.    Or  tie  as  in  Fig.  63. 

GHERKIN.    See  Cucumber. 

GOBO.    See  Burdock. 

GOLDEN  THISTLE.    See  Scolymus. 

GOOBER.    See  Peanut. 

GOOD  KING  HENRY.    See  Goosefoot,  Perennial. 

GOOSEBERRY,  CAPE  or  BARBADOES.  See  To- 
mato, Strawberry. 

GOOSEFOOT,  ANNUAL,  or  White  Quinoa  {Chenopo- 
dkim  Quinoa),  is  sometimes  grown  for  its  seeds  (used  in 
South  American  cooking  and  brewing,  after  boiling  to 
remove  their  bitter  flavor),  but  chiefly  for  the  leaves, 
used  as  spinach. 

Soil  should  be  light,  warm  and  quick. 

Distances. — Rows  t\velve  inches  apart. 

Sow  thinly  when  frosts  are  past. 

Depth. — One  inch. 

Thin  to  nine  to  twelve  inches  in  the  row. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  the  plants  are 
established.    Pick  seeds  when  ripe. 


GOOSEFOOT,  PERENNIAL  131 

GOOSEFOOT,  PERENNIAL,  or  Good  King  Henry, 
or  Mercury  {Chenopodium  Bonus  Henrkus),  is  a  peren- 
nial plant  popular  in  parts  of  England,  as  a  substitute 
for  and  rival  of  asparagus  as  an  early  vegetable.  In 
France  the  leaves  are  eaten  like  spinach;  in  England 
the  shoots  are  cut  like  asparagus  or  sea-kale. 

Soil  should  be  rich  and  deep.  Manure  freely  for 
best  results;  work  compost  into  the  hills. 

Sow  in  seed-bed  when  the  ground  is  warm,  drills 
apart  as  convenient. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Thhi  or  prick  out  to  six  by  six  or  six  by  twelve 
inches. 

Set  out  the  plants  when  a  foot  high,  or  in  tlie 
second  spring,  to  eighteen  inches  apart  each  ^^'a^',  four 
inches  deep. 

Culture  should  be  clean;  mulch  with  manure  in  the 
fall. 

Fertilize  each  spring  with  a  good  general  fertilizer; 
after  the  cutting  season,  with  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid 
manure. 

Cut  or  pick  when  the  plants  are  well  established  in 
their  permanent  positions;  shoots  are  best  not  cut 
until  the  third  spring.  Pick  the  young  leaves  as 
wanted,  lightly  in  the  second  year.  Cut  the  shoots 
from  their  first  appearance  in  spring  for  a  month  or 
five  weeks;  cut  underground,  as  with  asparagus.  Do 
not  exhaust  the  plants,  and  allow  them  to  recuperate 


132         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

during  the  summer.  If  the  plants  are  used  for  spring 
cutting,  do  not  cut  the  leaves  in  summer. 

Blanch  the  shoots,  if  desired,  by  earthing  up,  each 
spring,  to  a  height  of  nine  inches;  for  this  purpose  the 
rows  should  be  four  feet  apart.  Cut  each  shoot  as  soon 
as  it  appears. 

The  treatment  of  the  bed,  in  general,  should  be  simi- 
lar to  that  for  asparagus. 

Renew  every  five  or  six  years,  or  when  the  plants 
show  less  vigor. 

Use. — If  the  skin  of  the  shoots  is  tough,  strip  it  off. 
Cook  and  serve  the  shoots  like  asparagus,  the  leaves 
like  spinach. 

GOURDS,  which  with  us  are  not  kitchen  vegetables 
(the  English  include  squash  and  pumpkin  under 
Gourds),  are  grown  as  cucumbers  in  hills,  or  trained  on 
trellises. 

GROUND  CHERRY.    See  Tomato,  Strawberry. 

GROUND-NUT,  or 

GROUND-PEA.    See  Peanut. 

GUMBO.    SeeOkra. 

HART»S-HORN  PLANTAIN.    See  Buck's-Hom. 


HENBANE— HOP  133 

HENBANE  {^Hyoscyamus  niger)  is  a  plant  whose 
leaves  yield  hyoscine  and  hyosciamine,  used  medicinally, 
but  poisonous  in  any  but  small  doses.  The  herb  is  an- 
nual or  biennial,  usually  found  growing  wild,  but  offered 
by  some  seedsmen.  The  leaves  are  fatal  to  fowls, 
whence  the  name,  and  to  most  domestic  animals  except 
to  swine.  The  tradition  that  the  growing  plants  absorb 
malaria  of  course  disappears  before  modern  theories  of 
the  disease. 

Soil  should  be  light. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 
Thin  to  nine  inches  in  the  row. 

Soiv  when  frosts  are  past,  or  under  glass. 

Pick  the  leaves  in  the  second  year. 

HERB-OF-GRACE,    See  Rue. 

HERB  PATIENCE  is  Patience  Dock.  See  under 
Sorrel. 

HERBS. — See  under  their  names.  As  a  rule,  plant 
on  good,  light  earth  in  the  best  of  tilth,  cultivate  fre- 
quently, gather  when  dry,  dry  in  the  house,  in  a  warm, 
not  hot  room,  pulverize,  and  store  in  an  air-tight  recep- 
tacle. 

HOP.  The  Common  Hop  (Humulus  Lupulus)  is 
sometimes  used  as  a  vegetable,  the  shoots  being  cut  in 


134  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

the  spring  for  use  as  a  substitute  for  asparagus.  The 
plant,  a  perennial,  is  best  propagated  by  root-divisions 
or  by  cuttings;  it  does  not  come  true  from  seed. 

Soil  should  be  rich  and  deep,  enriched  with  well- 
rotted  manure  for  each  hill. 

Distances. — Three  feet  by  one.  Set  a  pole  for  each 
plant. 

Set  in  spring,  roots  as  deep  as  before. 

Set  cuttings  in  June  in  seed-bed,  shade  and  water 
till  established.  Set  out  permanently  the  following 
spring. 

Cut  the  shoots  for  a  few  weeks  in  early  spring, 
and  very  lightly  until  the  third  year.  After  cutting, 
allow  them  to  grow  to  store  up  strength  for  the  next 
year.  If  the  plants  are  grown  for  their  shoots,  pick  off 
all  flowers. 

Fertilize  yearly  with  a  good  general  fertilizer. 

Renew  when  the  plants  show  less  vigor. 

From  seed. — Sow  in  seed-bed,  rows  fifteen  to  eigh- 
teen inches  apart ;  thin  to  one  foot.  When  one  inch 
high,  or  in  the  second  spring,  set  at  the  permanent 
distances. 

HOREHOUND  (Marrnbium  vidgare)  is  a  perennial 
plant,  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  for  coughs  and  colds. 
It  is  hardy,  and  is  propagated  by  seeds,  root-divisions, 
or  bv  c-uttings,  and,  once  established,  will  persist  indefi- 
nitely. 


HOREHOUND— HORSE-RADISH         135 

Soil. — Light,  warm,  and  dry,  well  enriched. 

Distances. — Rows  two  feet  apart,  plants  a  foot  apart 
in  the  row.  Or  set  the  plants  eighteen  inches  apart 
each  way. 

Depth. — One-half  inch  for  seed.  Root-divisions  as 
before. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  thinly. 

Tkui  at  three  inches  high,  to  six  inches  apart. 

Transplant  the  intermediate  plants,  when  six  inches 
high. 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring. 

Start  cuttings  in  June,  in  shady  position.  Set  in 
plantation  when  once  established. 

Dress  each  spring  with  well-rotted  manure,  or  with 
a  good  general  fertilizer. 

Culture  should  be  clean. 

Gather  the  leaves  when  the  plant  is  growing  well. 
Pick  lightly  the  first  year;  afterward,  pick  heavily  twice 
a  year,  in  midsummer  and  fall. 

Use. — Boil  the  leaves  and  strain,  add  sugar  and  boil 
till  thick  enough  to  harden. 

Protection  not  necessary. 

Renew  from  root-divisions  when  the  plants  show  less 
vigor.    Or  root-prune  every  second  year. 

HORSE-RADISH  (Cochlearia  Armoracia)  is  a  peren- 
nial plant  which  for  best  results  should  be  grown  as  an 
annual.    It  is  grown  for  its  roots,  used  grated  as  a  con- 


136 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


gs,  which 


diment,  and  is  propagated  from  root-cuttin 
may  be  taken  from  the  plant  when  the  roots  are  dug  in 
the  fall.  Horse-radish  being  very  hardy  and  persistent, 
all  the  roots  should  be  taken  up,  or  the  plant  will  be- 
come a  pest,  unless  persistently  cultivated  out.  Old- 
fashioned  gardening  allows  the  roots  to 
remain  from  year  to  year,  to  be  dug  as 
wanted;  the  results  are  inferior  to  those 
from  annual  planting,  as  here  advised. 
Use  of  old  crowns  for  reproduction,  which 
5^2^R  is  an  old  method,  is  also  no  longer  advised. 
^  ^m)  Pests  are  chiefly  those  of  cabbage,  which 
see.  Diseases  are  not  troublesome.  (See, 
also,  Wasabi.) 

Soil  should  preferably  be  a  medium 
loam,  deep,  and  moderately  rich  and 
moist.  Dry  soils  give  woody  roots  with 
weak  taste ;  wet  soils  make  soft  roots  with 
too  strong  flavor.  Subsoil  should  be  open 
for  drainage  and  to  allow  the  roots  to 
penetrate;  otherwise  the  main  root  will 
branch. 

Distances. — Rows  two  feet  or  more 
apart ;  cuttings  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
in  the  row. 

Depth  varies  according  to  purpose.  It 
is  usual  to  plant  the  cuttings  three  to  six  inches  deep  ; 
planted  among  other  crops,  which  are  at  first  to  occupy 


-^p 


Fig.  64. 
Horse- Radish, 
A  good  root. 


HORSE-RADISH 


137 


"sets,'"  may  be  bought 
r    made   when   digging 


the  land,  the  cuttings  are  sometimes  set  as  much  as  a 
foot  deep. 

Position  is  usually  slanting,  the  larger  ends  all  point- 
ing in  the  same  direction.    They  may, 
however,   be    set    horizontally   or    up-  #" 
right. 

Cuttings^  or 
of   seedsmen    o 

the  year's  crop,  and  are  from  the  small 
or  side  roots.  The  usual  length  is  six 
inches.  They  should  always  be  care- 
fully cut  square  at  the  upper  end, 
slanting  at  the  lower,  to  distinguish 
the  ends,  as  the  upper  end  should 
never  be  set  deepest.  Tie  in  bundles 
and  store. 

Set  out  in  spring  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  fit.  Fall  planting  is  possible 
and  is  occasionally  practiced. 

Culture  should  be  clean  and  fre- 
quent. 

Fertilizer  should  be  rich  in  potash, 
and  worked  in  deeply  to  prevent 
branching  of  the  roots.  A  mixture  containing  10  per 
cent  potash,  7  per  cent  available  phosphoric  acid,  4 
per  cent  nitrogen,  1,000  pounds  per  acre,  would  be 
satisfactory. 

Dig  in  fall;  or  in  the  following  spring. 


Fig.  65. 
Horse-Radish  "sets." 
The    bottoms  are 
cut  slanting. 


138  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Storage. — Cuttings  may  be  stored  in  sand  in  the  cel- 
larc  Roots  may  be  similarly  stored,  to  preserve  their 
pungency. 

Pests  are  the  same  as  for  cabbage,  which  see. 

HORSE-RADISH,  JAPANESE.    See  Wasabi. 

HYSSOP  {Hyssopus  officinalis)  is  a  hardy  shrub, 
perennial,  grown  for  its  flowers  and  leaves,  which  are 
aromatic  and  somewhat  bitter,  and  are  used  in  season- 
ing. The  plant  is  propagated  from  seed,  cuttings,  or 
root -divisions.  Varieties  are  red-,  white-  and  blue- 
flowered. 

Soil. — Should  be  light  and  warm,  and  well  limed. 

Distances  of  the  mature  plants,  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  apart  each  way. 

Depth  of  seed. — About  one  inch.  Root-divisions  and 
cuttings  as  before. 

Sow  seed  in  April,  either  in  rows  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand,  or  in  a  seed-bed  for  transplanting  in 
June. 

Thin  in  seed-bed  to  six  inches,  in  permanent  rows  to 
twelve  inches  or  more. 

Set  root-divisio)is  in  fall  or  early  spring. 

Take  cuttings  in  June,  set  in  a  shady  place  and 
water  until  established. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted ;  take  the  flowers  when  the 
spikes  are  in  early  blossom.    Dry  and  store. 


ICE-PLANT 


139 


Renew  the  plants  by  division,  or  at  least  root-prune, 
every  three  or  four  years. 

ICE-PLANT  {Mesemhryanthemum  crystallinum)  is 
sometimes  called  Dew-plant,  on  account  of  the  glisten- 
ing spots  on  its  foliage.  The  plant  is  perennial,  but 
tender,  and  is  best  used  as  an  annual.    It  thrives  in 


Fig.  66.    Ice-Plant.    One-fourth  natural  size. 

heat  and  stands  drought  well.  It  is  used  like  spinach 
but  is  chiefly  regarded  as  a  curiosity.  New  Zealand  Ice- 
plant  is  New  Zealand  Spinach,  which  see  under  S. 

Soil. — Light  and  quick. 

Distances. — Row^s  one  foot  apart ;  thin  the  plants 
to  six  inches  or  more  in  the  row. 

Depth. — Shallows 

Sozv  under  glass  in  April,  and  set  out  in  late  May. 
Sow  in  the  open,  late  in  May,  or  early  in  June. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  once  the  plant  is 


140         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

established.    Cook  and  serve  as  spinach;  the  flavor  is 
shghtly  acid. 

ICE-PLANT,  NEW  ZEALAND.  See  Spinach,  New 
Zealand. 

JUR-NUT.    See  Peanut. 

KALE  {Brasska  oleracea  acephala)  is  a  non-heading 
plant  of  the  cabbage  family,  grown  for  its  leaves,  which 
it  bears  either  on  a  stalk  or  close  to  the  ground  ;  varieties 


Fig.  67.    Plant  of  curled  Kale. 

have  leaves  of  several  colors.  The  leaves  of  Kale  are 
usually  curled  at  the  edges,  and  the  plants,  being  orna- 
mental, are  frequently  used  for  bedding  purposes,  or  for 
garnishing.    The  low-growing  Kales  do  not  transplant 


KALE  141 

well,  and  are  therefore  usually  sown  where  they  are  to 
stand.  Kale  is  most  prized  as  a  spring  or  as  a  fall  crop ; 
for  a  spring  crop  it  is  often  planted  late  and  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  field  during  the  winter,  requiring  in  cold 
places  only  a  light  mulch.  There  are  several  varieties, 
their  characteristics  indicated  above,  some  being  dwarf. 
The  low-growing  Kales  winter  best.  Sea-Kale  is  an- 
other plant ;  see  under  Sea-Kale. 

xSbzYas  for  cabbage, — strong,  moist,  and  well  enriched. 

Distances. — Rows  and  plants  in  rows,  eighteen  to 
thirty  inches  apart,  according  to  variety. 

Dei)th  of  seed. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  in  the  North  usually  in  the  open  ground,  in 
April  or  May,  and  again  in  August  for  wintering. 

Transplant  the  tall  varieties  from  seed-bed  at  four 
to  six  inches.  The  low-growing  kinds  transplant  with 
difficulty,  and  should  be  set  shallow,  keeping  the  earth 
out  of  the  centers.  They  are  best  sown  thinly  in  rows 
where  they  are  to  stand,  and  thinned,  when  well  up,  to 
eighteen  inches  or  more. 

FertUize?\ — Kale  does  well  if  fed  at  intervals  with 
liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda,  like  cabbage,  which 
see. 

Picl'  the  leaves  as  wanted,  or  pull  the  whole  plant. 
The  leaves  are  best  after  they  have  been  touched  with 
frost. 

Break  dozen  all  flower-stalks  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

Diseases  and  pests,  see  cabbage. 


142 


THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


KNOTROOT.    SeeStachys. 


KOHLRABI,  or  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage  {Brasska 
oleracea  caulorapd),  is  a  variety  of  the  cabbage  family 
grown   for  the  enlargement  of  its  stem,  just  above  the 

ground,  which  should  be  eaten 
when  immature,  about  three 
inches  in  diameter.  Kohlrabi 
is,  like  all  plants  of  its  fam- 
ily, hardy  to  frost.  Varieties 
are  several,  according  to 
color;  the  early  maturing,  if 
J.  they  can  be  had,  are  best  in 
■^^  the  North.  Shapes  vary 
slightly.  The  English  give 
the  name  of  Turnip  -  Rooted 
Cabbage  to  the  Rutabaga. 

Soil. — Any  good  cabbage 
soil,  strong,  rich,  and  moist. 

Distances. —  Drills      apart 
eighteen  inches.    Kohlrabi  is 
best    sown    where    it     is    to 
stand,  as  it  transplants  poorly. 
Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow. — Kohlrabi  may  be  started  under  glass,  best  in 
pots  in  March  or  April,  but  is  not  usually  considered 
worth  the  expense.  Sow  thinly  in  the  open  ground 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 


Kohlrabi.    The  common  shape. 


KOHLRABI 


143 


Thin  to  six  inches  or  more  in  the  rows. 
Culture. — Keep    the    earth    from    the  heart  of  the 
plant,  and  do  not  cover  the  knob. 


l-je'-- 


Fig.  69,    other  types  of  Kohlrabi. 

Fertilize  Bit  intervals  with  liquid  manure  or  nitrate 
of  soda. 

Succession  may  be  maintained  by  sowings  every  two 
weeks  until  the  first  of  August. 

Pull  the  plants  before  they  are  full-size,  the  knobs 


144         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

not  larger  than  three  or  four  inches,  according  to  variety. 
If  allowed  to  grow  too  large  the  knobs  become  tough. 

Store. — Some  varieties  store  well,  in  a  darkened 
cellar. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  those  of  cabbage,  which  see. 
Cabbage-worm  and  clubroot  are  most  troublesome. 

LAMB'S  LETTUCE.    See  Corn  Salad. 

LAMB'S  QUARTER.    See  Pigweed. 

LANTERN  PLANT.    See  Tomato,  Strawberry. 

LAVENDER.  There  are  two  shrubs  known  by  this 
name,  and  of  the  same  family,  Lavandula^  which  are 
grown  for  their  flowers  and  leaves,  used  in  perfumery, 
or  as  a  domestic  medicine.  Medicinal  use  of  lavender  is 
now  very  rare,  but  the  leaves  are  sometimes  used  for 
seasoning. 

(1)  True  Lavender  (Z.  t^^m)  gives  the  best  perfume. 
It  is  a  small  shrub,  seldom  more  than  three  feet  high. 

(2)  Common  Lavender  {L.  spica),  a  smaller  shrub 
of  more  open  growth. 

These  two  shrubs  are  grown  in  much  the  same  man- 
ner, from  cuttings;  they  do  not  always  come  true  from 
seed,  and  root-divisions  give  weakly  plants. 

Soil  should  be  light,  dry  and  rather  poor. 

Distances. — Of  the  mature  plants,  about  four  feet 


LAVENDER— LEEK  145 

by  two  feet  for  best  results.  They  are  often  planted 
more  closely,  and  may  be  used  as  an  edging. 

SoiO  seeds  in  spring,  Avhen  the  ground  is  warm. 
Depth  about  one  inch.  Seed-bed  rows  eighteen  inches 
apart.    Thin  plants  to  nine  inches  apart. 

Transplant  in  fall  or  early  spring. 

Set  root  divisions  in  spring. 

Propagation  hy  cuttings  in  the  best  method.  Use 
"cuttings  of  one  season''s  gro^^'th  taken  with  a  heel  of 
older  wood,  in  late  autumn  or  early  spring"  (Cyclopedia 
American  Horticulture).  Set  in  moist,  shady  soil,  one 
to  two  feet  apart  each  way,  and  when  they  are  well 
rooted  set  in  the  open  at  above  distances. 

Pinch  off  all  flower-buds  the  first  year. 

Pick  the  flower-spikes  before  they  fade,  preferably 
in  dry  weather.  To  keep,  tie  a  bunch  of  the  spikes  by 
their  stalks,  turn  the  stalks  back  over  the  spikes,  and 
tie  again,  for  protection. 

LEEK  {Allium  Porrum)  is  one  of  the  onion  family, 
second  in  commercial  importance  to  the  onion  itself, 
being  extensively  used  in  the  south  of  Europe,  and  by 
the  Scotch,  English  and  French  as  a  vegetable,  cooked 
or  raw,  but  chiefly  for  seasoning.  It  forms  no  bulb,  but 
its  sheaf  of  leaves,  especially  when  blanched,  is  tender 
and  of  milder  flavor  than  the  onion.  Leek  is  usually 
a  seed-bed  crop,  and  is  best  when  blanched.  Varieties 
are  few. 


146 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


Soil. — Deep,  rich,  and  moist,  in  the  best  of  con- 
dition. 

Distances. — In  the  seed-bed,  rows  apart  as  conve- 
nient.   Sow  thickly,  and  thin  to  two  inches  apart  in  the 


Fig.  70.    Seedlings  of  Leek.     Natural  size. 

rows.  In  the  field,  rows  eighteen  inches  or  more  apart, 
plants  six  to  nine  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Depth  for  ,96^<?<:Z.— About  an  inch. 

Sow. — Leek  may  be  started  under  glass,  in  March 
or  April.    Sow  outdoors  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit. 

Transplant  to  permanent  positions  when  five  to  six 
inches  tall,  cutting  back  both  top  and  roots.  Plants 
raised  under  glass  should  be  hardened  off. 


LEEK 


147 


Set  out  according  to  the  result  desired.  For  a  green 
Leek,  set  as  deep  as  before.  For  a  blanched  Leek,  set 
(1)  in  farrows,  five  to  six  inches  deep;  (2)  in  holes 
made  with  trowel  or  dibber,  same  depth.  Various  other 
methods  are  used  in  different  countries,  the  principle 
beins  to  set  the  base  of  the  stem  about  six  inches  under 
ground,  not  filling  in  at  first,  but  allowing  the  rains 
and  subsequent  cultivation  to  level  the  ground,  after 
which  the  rows  are  earthed-up,  but  not  until  the  plants 
are  vigorously  growing. 

Culture. — In  the  above,  keep   the  earth  from  the 
heart    of   the    plant.     Earth 
when  the  plants  are  growing 
well.     For   green    Leeks    the 
plants  are  not  earthed-up. 

For  spring  crop.  Leeks 
may  be  sown  in  August  or 
September  and  wintered  un- 
der frames,  to  be  set  out  in 
spring.  This  is  done  chiefly 
in  mild  climates. 

Pick  as  wanted,  by  pulling 
the  whole  plant. 

Store  in  boxes  in  the  cel- 
lar, or,  as  Leek  is  hardy,  in 
trenches  like  celery,  taking  up   the    plants,  roots  and 
all,   and   setting   closely. 

Diseases  and  pests,  see  under  Onion. 


Fig.  71.    Leek.    Mature. 


148  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

LEMON,  GARDEN.  The  Garden  Lemon  is  of  the 
Melon  family.    See  Melon. 

LENTIL  {Lens  esculentd)  is  an  annual  leguminous 
plant  grown  for  its  seeds,  used  either  fresh  or  dried. 
It  is  exceedingly  nutritious,  and  is  of  great  importance 
in  the  orient  and  in  southern  Europe,  but  is  not  well 
suited  to  our  northern  climate. 

Soil. — Light  and  dry. 

Distances.  —  Drills  about  eighteen  inches  apart. 
Thin  to  three  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface-mulch. 

Harvesting. — When  the  stems  become  yellow  and 
the  pods  turn  dark  in  color,  pull  the  whole  plant  and 
dry  in  the  sun.    Pick  off  the  pods  when  dry. 

Store  the  pods  whole,  as  the  Lentils  do  not  keep 
so  well  when  shelled. 

LETTUCE  (Lactuca  sativa)  is  our  best-known  salad 
plant,  grown  for  its  leaves,  which  are  seldom  eaten 
cooked.  It  is  an  annual  short-season  plant,  often  used 
as  a  succession  or  companion  crop,  to  follow  or  precede 
another  crop,  or  to  use  the  intermediate  spaces  of  a 
wide-spaced  crop  while  that  is  coming  to  maturity. 
Thus,  being  hardy,  it  may  precede  tender  crops,  or  its 
heat-resistant  varieties  may  follow  strawberries,  or  may 


LETTUCE 


149 


be  planted  between  young  plants  of  the  cabbage  family. 
It  is  managed  partly  according  to  its  types,  of  which 
botanically  there  are  four:  head  lettuce,  cut-  or  curled- 
leaved,  the  Cos  (with  upright  leaves)  and  the  narrow- 
leaved.  For  this  last  see  Asparagus  Lettuce,  and  for 
practical  purposes  add  to  the  list  the  bunching  or  loose- 
heading  tvpe,  which  is    the  earliest    of  the    lettuces. 


Fig.  72.    Lettuce  seedlings.    Natural  size. 

Lettuces  vary  in  color  (reddish  borders  or  blotches) 
and  in  the  shape  of  the  leaves,  the  edges  of  some  being 
finely  crimped  or  curled.  Seedsmen  distinguish  betM-een 
white-  and  black -seeded  lettuces,  the  former  grown 
chiefly  for  forcing,  the  latter  chiefly  out-of-doors. 

Lettuce  may  be  grown  throughout  the  winter  by 
the  help  of  forcing  methods,  not  considered  here.  For 
outdoor  gardening  the  earliest  crop  is  started  under 
glass,  and  either  set  out  or  allowed  to  mature  in  the 


150 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


frames.  When  the  ground  is  in  good  condition  the 
first  outdoor  sowing  may  be  made,  as  Lettuce  is  very 
hardy  to  frost.    Successive  sowings  may  be  made  weekly 

to  fortnightly,  or   by  good 
management     and     trans- 
planting    still     less    often. 
In    the    summer 
many       lettuces 
run    quickly    to 
seed,   and    heat- 
Fig.  73.    Plant  of  heading  Lettuce.  resistin"*       varie- 

ties  should  be  chosen;  these  may  be  found  in  all  types 
of  Lettuce.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Cos,  although 
historically  a  hot -weather  Lettuce,  now  exists  in 
earlier  varieties. 

In  the  handling  of  Lettuce  the  varieties  must  be 
used  according  to  season,  but  the  culture  of  all  is 
practically  the  same.  Lettuce  transplants  well  and  is 
much  transplanted,  except  in  the  fall  in  the  open 
ground.  Heading  is  largely  a  matter  of  variety. 
Lettuce  should  be  given  clean  culture,  water,  and  food, 
and  should  be  properly  thinned.  Manure  is  the  best 
fertilizer.  Trade  varieties  are  numberless.  Pests  and 
diseases  are  not  troublesome. 

SoiL — Lettuce  will  grow  in  any  good  garden  soil, 
but  best  results  are  to  be  had  with  earth  that  is  light, 
warm  and  "quick.""  Where  summers  are  hot  a  moister 
soil  is  good  for  the  warm-weather  kinds.     The  ground 


LETTUCE 


151 


should  be  in  good  tilth,  and  plenty  of  good  manure, 
well-rotted,  should  be  spaded  in.     See  under  Fertilizer. 

Distances. — Under  glass  sow  in  drills  a  few^  inches 
apart,  prick  out  at  the  second  leaves  to  four  inches 
apart  each  way,  and  set  again  if  they  crowd.  In  the 
open,  seed-bed  drills  six  inches  or  more  apart.  Sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  drills  should  be  one 
foot  apart. 

Depth. — Under  glass  one-fourth  inch.     In  the  open 
one-half  to  one  inch,  ac- 
cording to  soil  and  sea- 


son. 

Sozv  under  glass  early 
in  March.  Outdoors  as 
soon  as  the  ground  is  fit, 
and  successively  every  ten 
days  or  two  weeks  there- 
after. If  a  row^  is  well 
managed  (as  below)  some 
plants  being  left  to  de- 
velop rapidly,  and  the 
thinnings  transplanted 
to  come  on  more  slowly, 
sowings  need  not  be 
oftener  than  every  three 
weeks  or  even  more.  Sow  early  crops  in  seed-bed ; 
autumn  crops  are  best  sow^n  thinly  where  they  are  to 
stand,  and  thinned  in  the  rows. 


Plant  of  curled  Lettuce. 


152         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Thin  the  seed-bed  rows  to  one  to  two  inches  apart 
for  the  best  results. 

Transplant  at  four  inches  into  rows  one  foot 
apart,  six,  nine  or  twelve  inches  in  the  rows,  accord- 
ing^ to  the  size  at  which  the  plants  are  wanted.  One 
foot  apart  each  way  will  usually  give  room  for  full 
development. 

If  not  transplanted  it  is  a  good  plan  in  home 
gardening  to  make  an  early  thinning,  so  that  the 
plants  shall  not  crowd.  When  they  get  to  be  about 
five  inches  tall,  growing  very  close  together,  thin  to 
three  inches  apart,  and  eat  or  transplant  thinnings. 
Thin  again  to  six  inches  and  finally  to  a  foot  apart  in 
the  rows,  allowing  the  remaining  plants  to  grow  to 
full  size  before  picking. 

Culture. — Keep  the  surface  -  mulch  in  good  condi- 
tion. Do  not  hoe  the  earth  against  the  plants,  nor  get 
earth  upon  or  in  them.  If  watered  with  liquid  manure, 
or  if  nitrate  of  soda  is  scattered  about  the  plants,  take 
care  not  to  get  the  fertilizer  on  the  leaves. 

Fertilizer. — Liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda  may 
be  applied  at  intervals  with  benefit  if  the  soil  is  not 
rich.  But  if  the  ground  has  been  thoroughly  enriched 
with  barnyard  manure,  no  further  fertilizing  is  needed. 
It  has  been  proved  by  station  tests  that  "after  the  soil 
has  received  a  heavy  application  of  stable  manure,  any 
application  of  chemical  fertilizers  is  only  thrown  away."' 
"Sulfate    of   soda  was  found   to   be  highly  injurious, 


LEITUCE,  ASPARAGUS  153 

especially  when  used  with  muriate  of  potash.''  (Farmers' 
BulletinNo.  105.) 

Pick  the  crop  as  wanted, — best  in  early  morning. 

Successional  sowings  should  be  made  as  above 
(under  Sow),  noting  that  in  the  heat  of  summer  Lettuce 
needs  careful  transplanting,  and  that  late-sown  plants 
do  best  when  sown  where  they  are  to  stand.  Sow  for 
winter  use  in  August  or  early  September,  and  trans- 
plant into  frames  or  the  greenhouse. 

Pests. — The  cabbage-worm  will  occasionally  attack 
Lettuce  and  must  be  picked  by  hand.  If  a  plant  is 
found  wilted  down,  dig  for  a  white  grub  near  or  beneath 
it.  Such  a  plant,  if  the  roots  have  not  been  entirely 
cut  off,  will  sometimes  start  again.  Water  and  give 
shade.  If  the  plant  is  found  cut  off  at  the  surface,  dig 
for  the  cutworm.  For  cutworms  and  white  grubs, 
dress  the  ground  with  nitrate  of  soda,  muriate  of  potash 
or  kainit,  and  water  freely  to  carry  the  salts  into  the 
ground. 

LETTUCE,  ASPARAGUS.  Asparagus  Lettuce  is 
mentioned  bv  Vilmorin-Andrieux,  and  is  the  narrow- 
leaved  type  included  above.  It  is  of  little  importance  as 
a  garden  vegetable,  as  it  runs  to  seed  quickly.  For  the 
table  it  is  gathered  when  the  leaves,  with  their  soft, 
thick  stems,  are  about  a  foot  high,  and  is  served  like 
asparagus,  or  used  for  a  salad.  It  is  cultivated  like 
common  Lettuce. 


154         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

LETTUCE,  PERENNIAL.  Also  given  in  Vilmorin- 
Andrieux,  "but  the  product  of  the  plant  is  so  trifling 
that  it  is  hardly  worth  cultivating."  It  resembles  the 
dandelion  in  growth,  and  is  chiefly  used  where  it  grows 
wild,  in  the  south  of  Europe  and  elsewhere. 

LOVACHE  or  LOVAGE  {Leimticum  officinale)  is  a 
plant  now  little  cultivated,  but  formerly  grown  for  its 
stems  and  leaf-stalks,  which  were  used  as  a  pot-herb,  or 
blanched  and  eaten  like  celery.  The  stems  and  stalks 
may  be  candied  like  angelica.  The  plant  is  a  hardy 
perennial,  and  when  once  established  will  yield  for 
several  years.  It  is  propagated  from  seed,  but  more 
satisfactorily  from  root-divisions. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil.  Enrich  well  with 
manure  if  the  plantation  is  to  last  for  some  time. 

Depth  of  seed,  one  inch;  of  root-divisions,  as  before. 

Sow  seeds  as  soon  as  they  ripen,  in  midsummer,  in 
seed-bed,  rows  one  foot  apart ;  thin  to  six  inches. 

Transplant  the  following  spring  to  two  feet  by 
eighteen  inches. 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring  at  the  same  distances. 

Earth-up   like  celery,  in  the  fall. 

Gather. — For  greens,  pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when 
the  plant  is  well  established.  Cut  the  stalks  when 
blanched.  Do  not  use  the  plants  for  both  purposes  in 
the  same  year. 

Renew  or  root-prune  every  three  or  four  years. 


LOVAGE,  SCOTCH— LICORICE  155 

LOVAGE,  SCOTCH  {Ligustkum  Scotkum)  is  a  plant 
now  little  known,  formerly  used  as  a  pot-herb.  It  may 
be  grown  like  common  Lovage,  above,  but  in  moist 
ground.   The  root  is  sometimes  eaten. 

LOVE-APPLE  is  Tomato. 

LOVE-IN-A-MIST.    See  Nigella  sativa. 

LICORICE  {GhjcirrMza  glabra)  is  a  perennial  plant 
grown  for  its  root,  from  which  is  extracted  the  Licorice 
of  commerce,  and  occasionally  domestic  medicines,  for 
troubles  of  the  throat,  and  for  colds.  It  is  best  propa- 
gated by  means  of  its  running  root. 

Soil. — A  medium  loam,  deep  and  well  enriched. 

Distances. — Three  feet  by  eighteen  inches. 

Depth. — Two  to  three  inches. 

Set  out  in  spring. 

Culture. — Give  clean  tillage;  in  the  fall  cut  diovm 
to  the  ground. 

Cutting  for  the  roots  should  not  be  begun  for  three 
years.  After  that  cut  regularly  in  the  fall,  for  use  and 
for  cuttings,  each  of  which  for  propagation  should  be 
six  inches  long  and  have  one  or  more  buds  or  eyes. 

Store  cuttings  in  sand  in  the  cellar. 

Mulch  over  winter,  north  of  New  York  city. 

To  make  licorice^  crush  and  boil  the  roots ;  evaporate 
the  product,  which  may  be  rolled  into  sticks  while  still 


156  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

soft.  When  pure  and  well  made,  the  licorice  should 
dissolve  entirely  in  water.  The  woody  roots  are  often 
kept  for  use. 

From  seed. — Sow  very  thinly,  when  the  ground  is 
fit,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart;  depth,  one  inch; 
thin  to  one  foot.  Give  clean  culture.  Transplant  in 
fall  or  spring  to  the  permanent  distances. 

LIQUORICE.    See  Licorice. 

MALLOW,  or  Curled  Mallow  {Malva  crispa),  is  an 
annual  plant  grown  for  garnishing.  It  is  often  grown 
in  beds,  and,  if  allowed,  will  seed  itself  from  year  to 
year. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  earth. 

Distances. — In  seed-bed,  rows  apart  as  convenient; 
permanent  distances,  two  by  two  feet. 

Depth  of  seed,  one  inch;  of  seedlings,  as  before. 

Sow  in  seed-bed  when  heavy  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  to  three  inches. 

Transplant  at  five  to  six  inches  to  permanent  dis- 
tances. 

Pick  as  wanted  when  the  plants  are  established. 

MALLOW,  JEW'S.  Jew^s  Mallow  (Corchoims  olHo- 
rius),  is  a  very  tender  salad-plant,  scarcely  known  in 
America.  Sow  when  frosts  are  past  and  cultivate  like 
spinach. 


MALLOW,  MARSH— MARJORAM,  POT    157 
MALLOW,  MARSH.    See  Marsh-Mallow. 

MANGEL-WURZEL  is  a  variety  of  Beet,  grown  for 
stock-feeding,  very  rarely  for  the  table.  It  is  grown 
like  Beet,  distances  about  nine  by  eighteen  inches.  For 
the  table,  pick  when  young. 

MANILA-NUT.    See  Peanut. 

MARIGOLD,  or  Pot  Marigold  {Calendula  officinalis)^ 
is  grown  for  its  flowers,  which  when  dried  are  used  in 
seasoning,  or  in  coloring  butter  or  omelettes.  The 
plant  is  a  hardy  annual,  and  blooms  continuously  from 
summer  till  heavy  frosts.  Varieties  are  single-  and 
double-flowered. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  or  more  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  to  nine  or  twelve  inches.  Thinnings  may  be 
transplanted. 

Pick  when  the  flowers  are  well  open,  dry  slowly,  and 
store. 

MARJORAM,  POT.  Pot  Marjoram  {Origanum 
vulgare)  is  a  perennial  herb,  very  hardy,  grown  for  its 
leaves  and  tender  shoots,  used  in  seasoning.  It  is  grown 
from  seed,  from  root-divisions  or  from  cuttings. 


158         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  earth. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  in  seed-bed  or  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand. 

Thin  or  set  out  to  one  foot  each  way. 

Take  root-divisions  in  spring  or  fall. 

Take  cuttings  in  summer;  set  in  shady  place,  and 
water  till  established. 

Cut  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  the  plant  is  estab- 
lished. 

Re-set  or  trim  roots  every  three  or  four  years. 

MARJORAM,  SWEET.  Sweet  or  Annual  Marjoram 
is  of  the  same  family  as  the  above,  being  O.  Mqjorana. 
Although  a  perennial,  it  seldom  survives  a  cold  winter, 
and  is  usually  grown  as  an  annual,  propagating  by 
seed.  It  is  grown  for  its  leaves  and  tender  tips,  of  bitter 
and  spicy  taste,  used  in  seasoning  and  in  domestic 
medicine. 

Soil. — Any  good  earth. 

Distances. — One  foot  each  way. 

Depth  of  seed,  about  one  inch ;  of  root-divisions,  as 
before. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March,  or  outdoors  when  heavy 
frosts  are  past. 

Thin  or  set  out  to  the  permanent  distances. 

Take  root- divisions  in  spring. 


MARSH-MALLOW— MART  YNI A         159 

Cut  for  use  as  wanted,  when  once  the  plant  is  well 
established. 

Protect  heavily  north  of  New  York  city. 

MARROW,  VEGETABLE.    See  under  Squash. 

MARSH-MALLOW  {Althaea  officinalis)  is  a  woody 
perennial  herb,  grown  for  its  mucilaginous  roots,  used 
as  a  demulcent  and  in  the  manufacture  of  candy.  It  is 
grown  from  seed  or  from  root-divisions. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  earth,  but  preferably  moist. 

Distances. — Two  feet  by  one. 

Depth  of  seed,  one  inch;  of  root-divisions,  as  be- 
fore. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  in  seed-bed  or  perma- 
nent positions. 

Thin  or  transplant  to  permanent  distances. 

Take  root -divisions  in  spring. 

Dig  the  roots  for  use  as  wanted,  after  two  years' 
growth.    Or 

Root-prune  in  spring,  leaving  parts  of  the  roots  to 
continue  growth. 

MARTYNIA,  offered  by  seedsmen  in  two  varieties, 
Proboscidea  and  Craniolaria,  is  a  hot-weather  plant, 
sometimes  called  Unicorn  Plant,  grown  for  its  seed- 
pods,  which  are  picked  while  young  and  tender,  and 
used  for  pickles.    It  may  be  started  in  the  house,  in 


160 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


which  case  it  is  best  grown  in  pots  for  setting  out,  and 
treated  hke  tomato.  Or  it  may  be  started  in  a  hotbed, 
and  allowed  to  mature  there  without  transplanting, 
gaining  much  time  over  ordinary  outdoor  culture. 

Soil. — Warm,  dry,  and  quick. 

Distances. — Three  by  three  feet,  or  more  if  the  soil 
is  very  rich. 


trans- 


Martynia  pods. 


m^.-' 


Fig.  75.    Martynia  pods.    One-third  natural  size. 

plant  into  pots  as  the  plants  crowd.  Sow  outdoors 
at  the  end  of  May  or  early  June,  several  seeds  to  the 
hill,  and 

Thin  to  one  plant  in  the  hill. 

Set  out  when  frosts  are  past,  about  June  1. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch. 

Fick  the  pods  while  still  tender,  or  they  are  worth- 
less; continue  picking  as  they  develop. 

Seed-bed  culture  is  possible,  if  the  position  of  the 


MARTYNIA— MINT 


161 


bed  is  warm  and  sheltered,  to  bring  them  forward  faster 
than  in  the  open  field.  Thin  to  six  inches  apart. 
Transplant  with  care,  with  a  ball  of 
earth  at  the  roots. 


MELON.     See  under  Musk  melon        y^^ 
and  Watermelon.  ^>i 

MELON   PEACH    is    cultivated 
the  same  as  Muskmelon. 

MELON,    PRESERVING.      See 

Watermelon. 


MERCURY. 

Perennial. 


See    Goosefootp 


MINT  (Mentha),  in 
three  varieties — Spearmint 
(or  Green  Mint),  Pepper- 
mint, and  Japanese  Mint — 
is  frequently  grown  in 
kitchen -gardens,  in  use  in 
the  order  named,  the  Jap- 
anese mint  being  something 
of  a  curiosity.  The  culture 
of  all  is  the  same;  Spear- 
mint   is    used    chiefly    for 


Fig.  76.    Spearmint  in  flower. 
One-third  natural  size. 


162         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

mint  sauce  and  juleps;  Peppermint  is  used  for  medi- 
cine and  confectionery,  and  seldom  for  seasoning.  Cat- 
mint is  Catnip. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  moist. 

Distances. — Mint  is  usually  grown  in  beds,  the 
plants  allowed  to  spread  at  will.  Best  results  come 
from  drills  eighteen  inches  or  more  apart,  with  clean 
culture  between  the  rows. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sozv  seed  in  spring,  where  the  plants  are  to  stand; 
or  sow  in  seed-bed,  well  watered,  rows  one  foot  apart ; 
thin  to  three  inches  in  the  rows. 

Transplant  in  fall  or  spring. 

Propagation  by  root-cuttings  is  most  usual,  the 
roots  divided  in  spring  and  set  where  they  are  to  grow. 
Set  the  divisions  two  inches  deep. 

Cuttings  may  also  be  used,  taken  in  summer,  shaded, 
and  watered  till  established. 

Protection  is  not  necessary. 

Cut  the  leaves  as  wanted,  when  the  plants  are  well 
established. 

Store  in  a  dry  place.    Or 

Lift  plants  for  winter  use  in  the  house,  keeping  in 
a  sunny  place  in  a  temperature  of  about  60°. 

MUG  WORT  {Artemisia  vulgaris)  is  a  hardy  peren- 
nial plant,  the  leaves  used  for  seasoning,  being  aromatic 
and  bitter.    It  is  grown  from  seed,  cuttings,  or  roots. 


MUG  WORT— MUSKMELON  16S 

Soil. — Any  good  earth. 

Distances. — Twelve  by  eighteen  inches. 

Depth  of  seed,  one  inch ;  of  root-divisions  or  rooted 
cuttings,  as  before. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  in  seed-bed,  or  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Thin  or  transplant  to  permanent  distances. 

Set  roots  in  spring  or  autumn. 

Take  cuttings  in  summer,  and  water  till  established. 

Cut  the  leaves  as  wanted,  after  the  plant  is  well 
established. 

Renew  or  root-prune  every  few  years. 

MUSKMELON  {Cucumis  Melo)  is  grown  in  several 
varieties  for  its  fruits.  It  is  a  warm -season  plant,  ten- 
der to  frost,  and  for  an  early  crop  must  be  started 
under  glass,  by  which  means  two  crops  may  be  had  in 
a  season,  and  are  often  planted  on  the  same  ground, 
the  later  between  the  earlier.  The  common  varieties 
are  chiefly  the  cantaloup  (with  hard  and  warty,  scalv, 
or  furrowed  rind)  and  the  nutmeg  or  netted  musk- 
melon  (with  softer  or  netted  rind);  the  latter  has  the 
shorter  season  and  is  therefore  better  adapted  to  grow- 
ing in  the  North.  Besides  these,  there  are  the  winter  or 
long-keeping  types,  forcing  melons,  and  preserving 
melons,  all  of  which  are  grown  in  the  same  manner, 
whether  out-of-doors  or  under  glass.  Diseases  and 
pests    are    mostly    the    same    as    cucumber.     Melons 


164 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


planted  with  cucumbers  do  not  hybridize,   as  is  popu- 
larly supposed. 

Soil  should  be  light,  warm,  and  quick.  In  heavier  soils 
the  hills  should  be  well  enriched  with  compost;  if 
clayey,  sand  or  sifted  coal-ashes  should  be  worked  in. 
If  wet,  the  soil  should  be  drained.  As  musk  melons  are 
always  grown  in  hills,  the  richer  these  are  made,  on 


Fig.  77.    Muskmelon  seedlings.    Nearly  natural  size. 

whatever  soil,  the  better.  On  some  soils  it  is  even 
advisable  to  remove  the  earth  of  the  hills  about  two 
feet  across,  and  replace  it  with  compost.  Or  fill  the 
holes  with  well-rotted  manure,  covered  with  three  or 
four  inches  of  good  soil,  in  which  to  sow  the  seed. 

Distances  are  somewhat  according  to  soils.  The 
best  general  distances  are  four  by  six  feet ;  if  the  soil  is 
very  rich,  give  more  space;  if  poor,  give  less. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  April,  in  pots  or  baskets  or  on 


MUSKMELON  165 

inverted  sods,    as    melons   transplant  poorly.     Several 
seeds  to  each  receptacle,  thin  to  one. 

Sow  outdoors  when  danger  of  frosts  is  over,  seldom 
before  the  first  of  June.  Sow  six  to  twelve  seeds  to  a 
hill,  according  to  the  danger  from  insects;  and,  when 
the  plants  are  well  growing, 

Thin  to  three  in  a  hill. 

Set  out  house-grown  plants  when  frosts  are  past. 
The  seed  of  the  main  crop  may  be  sown  between  them. 

Culture.  —  Preserve  the  surface 
mulch  until  the  plants  cover  the 
ground.  For  best  fruits,  after  four 
have  set  on  a  vine,  pinch  off  all  sub- 
sequent blossoms. 

Fertilize  with  one  light  dressing  of  liquid  manure 
or  of  nitrate  of  soda,  when  the  plants  are  small. 

Pinch  off  the  ends  of  the  vines  when  about  eighteen 
inches  long,  to  induce  branching,  as  the  fruits  are 
better  when  thus  distributed. 

Pick  when  ripe,  which  is  usually  known  by  the  ends 
turning  soft.  Pick  winter  melons  before  they  ripen,  and 
all  melons  before  frost  can  hurt  the  fruit. 

Store  winter  melons  in  a  cool  cellar  to  ripen. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  mostly  those  of  cucumber. 
For  melon -louse,  use  methods  against  plant-lice  as 
under  cucumber,  or  underspray  with  kerosene  emulsion, 
one  to  ten,  but  made  with  whale-oil  soap,  and  best 
mixed  with  Pyrethrum. 


166         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

MUSTARD,  which  is  of  the  Brassica  or  Cabbage 
family,  is  in  several  varieties  used  as  a  salad  or  a  pot- 
herb plant.  It  runs  to  seed  in  warm  weather,  and 
should  therefore  be  sown  in  spring  or  fall;  the  seed 
will  live  over  winter  in  the  ground.  Clean  culture  is 
necessary  to  prevent  the  seedlings  from  running  wild, 
and  the  plant  should  not  be  allowed  to  seed  itself  and 
become  a  pest.  The  white  Mustard  is  chiefly  used  as  a 
salad  plant,  sown  broadcast  or  in  drills;  the  black  or 
brown  Mustard,  the  southern,  and  the  Chinese  varieties, 
some  of  them  curled,  are  used  chiefly  for  pot-herbs,  and 
should  be  better  known.  Most  of  them  are  easily  raised 
under  glass,  especially  the  white. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  warm  and 
quick. 

Distances  are  somewhat  according  to  variety;  the 
white  either  broadcast  on  small  areas  or  in  drills  nine 
inches  apart,  the  others  in  drills  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  apart,  thinned  to  four  to  eight  inches  in  the 
row. 

Depth. — For  the  white,  one-half  inch.  For  the 
others,  one  inch. 

Break  dozvn  all  flower-  stalks  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

Pick  only  the  young  leaves,  of  the  white  and  black 
varieties,  as  wanted.  Of  the  larger  varieties  all  the 
leaves  may  be  gathered.  Pull  whole  plants  or  pick  the 
leaves  as  wanted. 

Sow  in  September  for  a  spring  crop ;  as  soon  as  the 


MUSTARD— NASTURTIUM  167 

ground  is  fit,  for  an  early  summer  crop;  and  again  in 
August  for  a  fall  crop. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  those  of  cabbage,  but  rarer. 

MUSTARD,  TUBEROUS-ROOTED.  This  is  usually 
called  Chinese;  its  roots  are  like  white  turnips,  and 
can  be  grown  and  eaten  like  them. 

Soil. — Preferably  light  and  quick. 

NASTURTIUM.  The  common  Nasturtium,  or  Indian 
Cress,  in  its  tall  and  dwarf  forms  {Tropceolum  mqjus 
and  T.  minus)  is  grown  for  its  buds  and  unripe  seeds, 
used  in  pickling,  and  for  its  flowers,  used  in  garnishing. 
Either  may  be  started  in  the  house,  best  in  pots  or 
individual  receptacles,  as  they  transplant  poorly.  Or 
plant  out-of-doors  when  frosts  are  past.  Tall  kinds 
should  be  provided  with  poles  or  a  trellis  on  which  to 
run ;  the  dwarf  support  themselves. 

Soil. — Light  and  rich. 

Distances. — For  the  dwarf,  one  foot  by  six  to  nine 
inches.    For  the  tall,  two  feet  by  one. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past.  Or  start  under  glass  in 
April. 

Thin  or  transplant  to  permanent  positions. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care. 

Pick  the  flowers  as  wanted.  Pick  the  seed-pods  be- 
fore they  matureo 


168         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

NASTURTIUM,  TUBEROUS-ROOTED,  is  a  tropical 
or  semi -tropical  plant  grown  for  its  tubers,  which  in 
South  America  are  considered  a  delicacy.  It  is  a  perennial 
plant  treated  as  an  annual,  and  in  northern  climates 
propagated  by  its  tubers.  In  South  America  the 
people  freeze  the  tubers  after  boiling  them,  by  which 
means  the  taste  is  considerably  improved.  They  are 
usually  eaten  with  molasses. 

Soil. — Warm  and  light. 

Distances. — Hills  three  by  three  feet. 

Depth. — One  inch  for  seed ;  for  tubers,  two  or  three 
inches. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  four  to  five  seeds  to  a  hill. 

Thhi  to  one  plant. 

Dig  when  the  vines  are  killed  by  frost.  Keep  frost 
from  the  tubers,  and 

Store  in  sand. 

NEW  ZEALAND  SPINACH.  Sec  Spinach,  New 
Zealand. 

NIGELLA  SATIVA,  or  Love-in-a-Mist,  or  Fennel 
Flower,  is  a  hardy  annual  sometimes  grown  for  its  seeds, 
used  in  seasoning.    It  does  not  transplant  well. 

Soil. — Light  and  warm. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  or  more  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 


NIGHTSHADE  169 

Thin  at  three  inches  to  six  to  eight  inches  apart. 
Pick  seeds  as  they  ripen. 

NIGHTSHADE,  BLACK-BERRIED.  Black-berried 
Nightshade  is  Solanum  nig-j-um,  a  hot-season  plant 
whose  leaves  are  sometimes  used  as  greens. 

Soil. — Light  and  warm. 

Rows. — One  foot  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  to  six  inches. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care. 

Piclc  the  leaves  as  wanted,  or  pull  the  whole  plant. 

NIGHTSHADE,  MALABAR  or  WHITE  (Basella  alba) 
is  an  annual  plant  of  a  different  family,  but  also  grown 
for  its  leaves,  used  as  greens.  B.  cordifolia  is  used  in 
the  same  manner. 

Soil. — Light  and  quick. 

Distances. — Hills  two  feet  or  more  each  way. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  April,  or  outdoors  when  frosts 
are  past,  three  to  five  seeds  to  a  hill.    When  well  up, 

Thi7i  to  one  plant. 

Set  out  house -grown  plants  w^hen  frosts  are  past, 
after  hardening. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  the  plants  are  well 
established,  but  do  not  strip  the  plants. 


170         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

OCA  {Oxalis  crenata)  is  a  South  American  tuber- 
bearing-plant,  little  cultivated  in  North  America.  It 
is  grown  for  its  tender  leaves  and  shoots  (used  like 
sorrel  for  salads  or  greens)  but  chiefly  for  its  tubers. 
These,  somewhat  acid  when  fresh,  turn  sweet  when 
exposed  to  the  sun  for  a  few  days  in  woolen  bags; 
when  completely  dried  by  this  process,  they  taste  like 
figs.  The  plant  needs  a  long  season  and  is  very  tender 
to  frost. 

Start  the  tubers  under  glass  in  March,  or 

Plant  outdoors  when  frosts  are  past. 

Soil. — Light,  warm  and  rich. 

Dhtances. — Three  feet  by  three  feet. 

Depth. — Two  to  three  inches. 

Take  cuttings  from  growing  plants,  like  sweet 
potatoes. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch  until  the 
vines  cover  the  ground.  Cover  the  stems  with  earth 
wherever  they  root,  and  more  tubers  will  be  produced. 

Dig  when  the  vines  are  killed  by  frost. 

Dry  as  above. 

OKRA,  or  Gumbo,  or  Gombo  (Hibiscus  esculentus) 
is  a  hot-weather  and  very  tender  plant  grown  as  an  an- 
nual for  its  seed-pods,  which  are  picked  while  tender  for 
use  in  soups,  stews  or  as  a  vegetable,  or  are  dried  or 
canned  for  winter  use.  Okra  is  of  growing  popularity, 
its  mucilaginous  effect  being  agi'eeable  to  many,  though 


OKRA 


171 


known  to  most  only  in  Gumbo  soup.  For  an  early 
crop  it  is  best  started  under  glass,  in  pots,  because  it 
transplants  poorly.  The  pods,  which  form  early,  and 
very  quickly  after  flowering,  should  be  picked  before 


Okra  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 


they  develop  woody  fibers,  which  spoil  them  for  use; 
the  size  of  the  pods  at  picking  time  depends  upon  the 
variety.  Varieties  are  several,  being  chiefly  Tall  Green, 
Dwarf  Green,  and  Lady-finger;  the  first  two  sub-divide 
into  long-  and  short-podded,  the  Lady-finger  into 
white-  and  green-podded.  Types  are  likely  to  run  to- 
gether, and  only  the  best  seeds  should  be  bought.  The 
varieties  best  for  general  use  are  the  Dwarf  Green  Long- 
pod  and  the  White  Lady-finger;  the  dwarf  succeeds 
best  in  the  North. 

Soil  should  be  light,  warm,  rich,  and  in  the  best  oi 
tilth. 

Distances  are  entirely  according  to  the  variety. 
Rows  thirty  inches  to  five  feet  apart,  plants  in  the  row 


172  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

twelve  to  thirty  inches.  Or  plant  in  hills,  two  by  two 
feet  to  three  by  three' feet,  and  thin  to  two  or  three 
plants  in  the  hill. 

Depth. — One  to  two  inches,  accord- 
ing as  the  soil  is  firm  or  loose. 

Sow  for  an  early  crop  under  glass 
in  April,  in   pots,  and   repot  as   the 
plants   grow.     Sow   outdoors   in   late 
Fig.  80.  Okra.  Dwarf    May  or  early  June,  when    frosts  are 

seeds  in  the  hill. 

Set  out  house-grown  plants  when  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  when  the  plants  are  growing  well.  Taken  up 
with  care,  thinnings  may  be  transplanted. 

Culture. — Preserve    the  surface-mulch. 

Fertilize  while  the  plants  are  young,  with  two  or 
three  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure, 
a  week  apart. 

Cut  with  an  inch  of  stem  while  the  pods  are  tender; 
if  they  are  too  tough  to  slice  with  a  kitchen  knife,  they 
are  too  old.  The  flowers  open  early  in  the  morning, 
fade  in  a  few  hours,  and  the  pods  are  usually  ready  to 
pick  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day.  The  sizes  of 
the  pods  vary  with  the  varieties.  Pick  clean  daily; 
otherwise  the  plant  suspends  production  for  a  while. 
Pods  may  be  kept  fresh  by  moistening  and  spreading 
thinly  on  trays  in  a  cool  place.  They  heat  in  bulk,  or 
in  a  closed  receptacle. 


Plate  \1.     Dwarf  Okra — Flower,  Leaves,  and  Two  Pods 


OKRA— ONION  173 

Uses  are  chiefly  in  soups,  but  Okra,  when  boiled,  is 
excellent  served  hot  or  else  as  a  cold  salad.  Some  per- 
sons have  to  acquire  the  taste.  For  various  recipes,  see 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  232. 

Okra  may  be  canned,  or  may  be  dried  and  kept  for 
winter  use.  To  dry,  string  and  hang  up.  In  the  South 
the  mature  seed  is  sometimes  roasted  and  ground  for 
use  as  coffee. 

Do  7iot  cook  in  iron,  copper,  or  brass,  or  the  pods 
will  be  discolored  and  perhaps  rendered  poisonous. 

Diseases,  not  mentioned  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  No. 
232,  are  elsewhere  reported  as  so  troublesome  that  the 
plant  cannot  be  grown  in  some  localities.  Rotation  is 
given  as  the  remedy. 

Pests  are  not  dangerous. 

OLD  MAN.    See  Rosemary. 

ONION  {Allium  Cepa)  is  the  chief  of  a  very  im- 
portant vegetable  family,  and  has  been  grown  from 
antiquity  for  its  bulbs,  used  for  seasoning  and  cooking, 
for  pickling,  and  for  eating  raw.  It  is  a  biennial  and 
in  some  of  its  forms  a  perennial  plant,  and  is  grown  as 
an  annual  or  a  biennial.  Onions  are  propagated  from 
seed  (which  should  always  be  of  the  very  best),  from 
bulbs,  from  parts  of  compound  bulbs,  and  from  "top.>5,'' 
or  bulbs  formed  on  the  tops  of  the  flower-stalks.  Grow- 
ing from  seeds  require  the  best  of  physical  condition 


174  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

for  the  land,  as  the  seeds  germinate  very  slowly,  and 
the  best  cf   surface  tillage,  as  the  young   plants    are 
easily  killed  by  weeds.    The  old  style  of  onion -bed  is 
.  now  universally  discarded 

m  iM I »»n  w ■  t  >  in , gh^^^j^am II .y         for    culture    in    straight 
"•^         rows,  and  in  Union  cul- 
ture more  than  in  many 
others  the  wheel-hoe  and 
mechanical     planter    are 

Fig.  81.     A  modern  Onion  field.    Ex-  „  -r»    .    i  i 

cept  for  early  weeding,  it  can  be       ot    great    USe.    But  hand- 
cultivated  with  wheel-hoes.  weeding    is     necessary, 

especially  when  the  plants  are  young,  and  thinning  also 
requires  hand  work.  The  Onion  is  very  hardy  to  frost, 
and  is  somewhat  tender  to  heat;  therefore,  the  seed  is 
always  sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible,  in  order 
to  have  the  plants  well  growing  by  midsummer.  In  mild 
climates,  for  the  same  purpose,  seed  is  sown  in  the  fall. 
From  spring-sown  seed  the  fall  crop  is  gathered;  for 
earlier  Onions  "sets,"  "tops,*"  or  "potato  onions""  are  set 
out.  These  are  all  bulbs  grown  by  one  method  or  an- 
other, "sets"'  being  bulbs  arrested  in  their  growtli  and 
stored  for  spring  use,  "potato  onions"  or  "multipliers" 
being  compound  Onions  of  which  the  parts  or  bulbels 
are  planted  separatelv.  Each  bulbel  will  produce  a  com- 
pound bulb.  "Tops"  or  bulblets  are  described  above. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  top-onions  and  potato- 
onions,  while  sets  mav  be  grown,  as  described  below, 
from  the  seed  of  any  variety,  though  the  results  vary. 


ONION 


175 


Seed  is  never  grown  from  sets,  as  the  results  would 
probably  be  inferior.  Varieties  of  Onions  are  classified 
according  to  methods  of  propagation,  as  above,  or  by 
shape  (round,  flat,  oval  and  top-shape)  and  color  (red 
yellow,  white).  Some  varieties  are  very  large.  Diseases 
and  pests  are  troublesome. 

Soil  for  Onions,  since  an  early  start  is  essential  for 
an  early  crop,  is  best  prepared  in  the 
fall  by   plowing,  leaving   the    ground 
rough  through  the  winter.    For  a  late 


Fig.  82. 
A  multiplier  Onion. 


crop  the  ground  may  be  prepared  when 

the  spring  opens.     The  soil  should  be 

moist     but    well     drained,    rich,    and 

"  quick. '*"'      Fresh    or     rough     manure 

should    not  be   used   on    Onion    land, 

but  well-rotted  manure  may  be  worked  in,  and  should 
be  supplemented  with  surface  dress- 
ings of  commercial  fertilizers  and 
wood-ashes,  lightly  worked  in,  since 
Onions  are  chiefly  surface  feeders. 
Onion  ground  should  not  be  light  or 
loose,  as  the  bulbs  develop  better  on 
a  firm  surface.  The  preliminary  sur- 
face  cultivation    should  be  kept  up 

until   the  time  of  planting,  to  conserve  the  moisture 

and  kill  all  the  weeds. 

Commercially,  the  choice  of  Onion  land  is  of  the 

greatest  importance.    Clay  lands  are  too  hard  to  work, 


Fig.  83. 
A  multiplier  Onion  in 
cross-section,  show- 
ing its  divisions. 


176         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

are  too  moist,  and  are  usually  lacking  in  humus;  they 
are,  besides,  ''late"  and  require  the  greatest  care  in 
cultivation.  Sandy  lands  are  too  dry  and  porous. 
Stony  or  gravelly  soils  cannot  profitably  be  worked.  A 
medium  loam,  rich  and  deep,  is  best;  it  should  be  as 
level  as  possible,  since  sloping  soils  wash,  exposing  some 
bulbs  and  covering  others.  Underdraining  often  pays, 
and  many  acres  of  former  muck  land  are  now  in  paying 
use.  Previous  cultivation  of  heavily  manured  hoed 
crops  will  usually  get  the  soil  in  perfect  condition. 
Onions  are  often  grown  year  after  year  on  the  same 
land,  by  freely  fertilizing,  unless  diseases  or  pests  force 
a  rotation. 

Distances  are  somewhat  according  to  the  variety  of 
Onion  used,  the  method  of  culture,  and  the  age  at 
which  they  are  to  be  pulled.  For  ordinary  culture, 
rows  a  foot  apart  or  even  less,  and  the  Onions  about 
three  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  is  enough,  unless  the 
Onions  are  to  be  pulled  ^^•hen  small,  when  they  may 
stand  two  inches  apart.  The  very  large  varieties,  trans- 
planted from  the  hotbed,  may  need  six  inches  space 
in  the  rows,  which  should  be  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches 
apart.  For  horse-culture,  the  rows  should  be  thirty 
inches  apart. 

Depth. — Sow  seed  one-half  to  one  inch,  according  as 
the  soil  is  compact  or  loose.  Set  young  Onions  as  they 
grew  in  the  seed-bed.  Set  sets,  tops,  or  multipliers 
with  their  tops  just  showing. 


ONION 


177 


Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April,  Outdoors,  sow 
seed  in  mild  climates  in  the  autumn,  for  an  early  start, 
or  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit  in  spring.  Have  no  seed 
but  the  best,  and  sow  thickly!    Plant  sets,  etc.,  when 


Fig.  84.    Onion  seedlings.    Natural  size. 

the  ground  is  fit,  and  once  more  in  a  fortnight  for 
succession ;  in  mild  climates  they  may  even  be  set  in 
the  fall. 

Thin  the  rows  when  the  plants  are  three  inches  or 
more  tall.  If  the  young  Onions  are  to  be  used,  thin  to 


178 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


one  and  one-half  inches,  and  when  about  the  thickness 
of  the  finger  pull  the  intermediate  plants.    They  are 

eaten    raw    or    used    in 
salads. 

Transplanting  or  Set- 
ting Out.  —  Transplant 
young  Onions  from  hot- 
bed or  coldframe  when  well  hard- 
ened and  the  ground  is  warm, 
trimming  both  tops  and  roots. 
Ordinary  thinnings,  if  pulled 
carefully  and  cut  back,  are  some- 
times set  in  other  rows. 

Cultiwe  of  Onions  should  be 
constant,  the  soil  being  stirred 
after  each  rain  to  preserve  the 
moisture,  and  to  prevent  the 
forming  of  a  crust.  In  the  first 
place,  do  not  allow  the  earth  to 
bake  over  the  seeds,  after  sowing. 
Cultivation  with  a  wheel-hoe  is  of 
great  use  in  the  Onion  plot;  the 
straddle  -  row  cultivator  may  be 
used  until  the  plants  are  very  large.  But  hand-weeding 
among  the  plants  is  always  a  necessity,  and  may  be  done 
at  thinning-time  and  whenever  the  weeds  grow  large.  A 
good  deal  of  this  labor  may  be  avoided  by  using  very 
well-rotted  manure,  and  by  putting  the  crop  on  land 


Fig.  85. 
A  bunch  of  early  Onions 


ONION  179 

that  has  previously  had  clean  culture.  Cultivation 
should  begin  as  soon  as  the  rows  are  visible,  if  the 
weeds  are  at  all  numerous;  if  the  planting  machine  has 
been  used,  the  mark  of  its  roller  will  usually  allow  culti- 
vation ,even  before  the  plants  appear.  If  the  Onions 
are  transplanted,  the  wheel-hoe  should  at  once  be  used 
to  loosen  the  packed  soil.  Cultivation,  except  at  first, 
should  not  be  deep,  on  account  of  the  danger  of  injur- 
ing the  roots.  The  earth  should  always  be  kept  away 
from  the  bulbs. 

Fertilizer. — Onions  use  up  all  three  of  the  chief 
elements  of  plant- food,  which  should  be  generously  sup- 
plied, as  Onions  require  a  much  greater  quantity  of 
food  than  most  other  crops.  Manure  may  be  applied 
in  great  quantities  in  preparation  of  the  land,  some 
growers  using  from  forty  to  seventy-five  tons  per  acre ; 
it  should  always  be  supplemented  by  potash  and  espe- 
cially by  phosphoric  acid  for  best  results.  After- fertili- 
zation should  be  by  chemicals;  wood-ashes,  unleached 
and  preferably  of  hard  wood  (six  to  eight  tons  per 
acre),  will  supply  potash  as  well  as  improve  the  physi- 
cal condition  of  the  soil.  Or  use  potash  salts  in  fall, 
winter  or  early  spring,  200  to  300  pounds  muriate  pot- 
ash or  800  to  1,000  pounds  kainit,  per  acre.  Bone- 
meal  or  other  phosphates,  300  to  400  pounds  per  acre, 
will  give  phosphoric  acid.  Nitrate  of  soda  should  be 
given  in  four  equal  dressings  (the  first  just  before 
planting) — 200  to  400  pounds  per  acre.    All   of  these 


180         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

commercial  fertilizers  should  be  lightly  worked  into  the 
soil.  For  ordinary  garden  cidture  a  good  mixed  ferti- 
lizer, liberally  supplied  early  in  the  season,  and  followed 
by  occasional  dressings  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  waterings 
of  liquid  manure,  will  be  enough. 

At  the  same  time  it  should  be  mentioned  that  ex- 
periments show  that  applied  in  large  quantities  ferti- 
lizer may  be  wasted.  "  The  onion -grower  runs  great 
risk  of  diminished  profits  when  he  uses  1,500  and  2,000 
pounds  of  [high-grade]  commercial  manure  per  acre." 
(Farmers^  Bulletin  No.  149.) 

Harvesting. —  Onions  usually  show  their  ripeness 
by  the  dying  of  the  tops.  When  most  of  the  plot  have 
begun  to  turn  yellow,  if  the  others  are  still  green, 
break  them  down  by  rolling  a  barrel  along  the  row  or 
by  twisting  them  by  hand.  This  should  be  done  if 
the  whole  crop  remains  green  well  into  September. 
When  the  tops  are  dead,  pull  the  crop,  laying  the 
Onions  so  that  the  sun  shall  reach  their  roots,  in  wind- 
rows or  in  heaps.  On  account  of  the  danger  of  rain, 
they  are  best  cured  under  cover.  When  dried,  the  tops 
are  cut  off  an  inch  or  less  from  the  bulb,  and  they  are 
then  stored.  Sometimes  the  tops  are  cut  off  before  the 
crop  is  pulled,  and  occasionally  the  tops  are  allowed  to 
remain  and  the  Onions  are  tied  together  by  them. 

Storage  is  usually  in  boxes  or  barrels  out  of  the 
reach  of  frost.  Commercial  storage  is  not  treated  here. 
Onions  may  be  frozen  if  they  are  not  again  thawed  till 


ONION  181 

spring,  and  not  handled  while  frozen.  Storage  with- 
out loss  is  rare. 

The  ^'New''''  Onion  Culture. — This  is  a  method  intro- 
duced into  this  country  in  1889,  but  previously  prac- 
ticed in  Europe.  As  already  indicated,  the  Onions  are 
started  under  glass  in  February  or  March,  and  set  out 
when  the  ground  is  warm.  The  transplanting  seems  to 
benefit  the  plants,  and  the  crop  is  always  larger  and 
more  uniform  in  size.  In  the  South  the  plants  are 
started  in  seed-beds  in  the  open;  in  the  North  the 
expense  of  sashes  and  labor  is  likely  to  be  prohibitive, 
except  in  garden  culture.  In  setting  out  the  plants 
both  tops  and  roots  are  cut  back.  Sow  thickly,  and 
water  till  the  plants  are  up;  if  they  crowd,  thin. 

Sets  are  grown  by  sowing  the  seed  of  a  given 
variety  broadcast  and  very  thickly  on  a  plot  of  sandy 
ground.  The  plants,  after  well  starting,  presently 
stunt  each  other.  When  the  tops  die,  pull,  dry,  and 
store.  The  sets  should  be  less  than  an  inch  in  diame- 
ter. Small  Onions  from  the  previous  season's  crop  are 
not  successful  as  sets. 

Top  onions  are  grown  from  their  bulblets, 

Multipliers  from  their  bulbels.    Neither  seed  readily. 

Seed  should  always  be  the  best,  regardless  of  expense, 
as  poor  Onions  are  not  worth  growing. 

Scullions  or  Scallions  are  Onions  which,  from  poor 
seed  or  improper  conditions,  do  not  bulb  but  have  a 
thick  neck. 


182         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

Diseases. — Smut  may  be  entirely  prevented  by  grow- 
ing the  Onions  in  hotbeds  and  transplanting — an  argu- 
ment for  the  New  Culture.  Otherwise,  sow  in  the  drills 
sulphur  (one-hundred  pounds  per  acre)  and  air-slaked 
lime  (fifty  pounds  per  acre)  with  the  seed.  One  ounce 
of  the  mixture  equals  fifty  feet  of  drill.  Special  seed 
drills  may  be  made  for  the  purpose.  See  New  York 
Bulletin  182.  Rotation  helps  somewhat,  but  not  en- 
tirely, and  it  will  also  help  on  smutty  land  to  sow  more 
seed.  For  rust  use  rotation ;  spray  with  copper  fungi- 
cides, while  the  plants  are  young;  destroy  affected 
plants. 

Black  mold. — Spray  with  Bordeaux. 

Pests. — Onion-fly  or  onion-maggot  eats  into  the 
bulb  and  roots  of  the  plant  while  young.  Sprinkle  the 
earth  and  the  plants  with  carbolic  acid  emulsion 
(one  to  thirty)  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  up,  and  at 
weekly  intervals  while  there  is  danger;  or  inject  carbon 
dioxide  into  the  ground  around  them,  a  laborious  pro- 
cess. Apply  tobacco  dust  freely  alongside  the  plants; 
this,  besides  repelling  the  fly,  will  feed  the  Onions. 
Rotate,  and  feed  highly;  burn  all  injured  plants,  and 
all  rubbish  of  the  patch.  See  also  cabbage- maggot 
treatment.  For  Onion  cutworms  dry  bran  and  middlings 
in  equal  parts  mixed  with  one-thirtieth  of  their  weight 
of  Paris  green,  is  very  effective.  Scatter  along  the  rows 
and  around  the  edges  of  the  plot.  Thrips,  which  attack 
the    leaves,  do    great    damage.    Spray    with    kerosene 


OxMON  183 

emulsion,  (one  to  ten),  resin  wash,  tobacco  water;  drench 
with  cold  water. 

ONION,  CANADA,  or 

ONION,  EGYPTIAN,  is 

ONION,  PERENNIAL.  Perennial,  Tree,  or  Canada 
Onion,  sometimes  called  Egyptian  Tree  or  Top  Onion^ 
is  Allium  proUfe rum,  a  plant  of  the  Onion  family  whose 
root  bears  no  bulb  but  has  several  offsets,  and  whose 
top  bears  bulblets.  Its  tops  are  often  used  as  small 
Onions  for  pickling,  or  to  reproduce  the  plant.  This  is 
more  usually  done,  however,  by  means  of  the  root  off- 
sets, which  are  set  separately,  usually  in  the  fall,  the 
resulting  plants  being  used  in  spring  as  scallions  or  leeks. 
Set  in  the  fall.  Perennial  Onions  are  among  the  earliest- 
yielding  plants  of  the  garden.  Actual  perennial  use  of 
the  plants  is  rare,  yearly  planting  being  usual. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  light,  quick, 
and  in  good  tilth.  » 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart,  bulbs  three  to  six 
inches  in  the  row. 

Depth. — Lightly  cover  the  tops  of  the  bulbs. 

Sow. — Set  the  root  offsets  in  the  spring,  or  prefer- 
ably in  fall,  in  late  September  or  early  October.  Set 
the  tops  in  spring,  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Culture  should  be  clean  and  frequent. 


184 


THE    BOOK    OF   \TEGETABLES 


Pull  the   plants  as  wanted,  when  of  sufficient  size ; 
or  allow  them  to  grow  and  make  tops. 
Protect  lightly  over  severe  winters. 

ONION,  TREE,    See  Onion,  Perennial. 


ONION,  WELSH.  Welsh  onion,  or  Ciboule  {Allium 
Jistulosum)^  is  a  perennial  plant  of  the  Onion  family 
which  does  not  bulb,  and  is  grown  for  its  leaves,  used 
in  seasoning,  giving  a  mild  onion  flavor.  There  is  also 
a  Perennial  Welsh  Onion  {A. 
lusitanicum),  the  difference  be- 
tween the  two  being  that  the 
ordinary  may  be  propagated 
fi'om  seeds  as  well  as  root  di- 
visions, while  the  perennial 
cannot  be  raised  from  seed,  as 
it  produces  none.  Both  are 
hardy  to  frost,  but  will  not 
always  withstand  a  severe  win- 
ter. Varieties  of  the  Welsh 
Onion  are  red  and  white. 

Soil. —  Any  good  garden 
soil,  preferably  cool  and 
moist. 

Distances. — Set  the  divisions,  or  sow  the  seed,  in 
rows  a  foot  apart.  Divisions,  six  inches  apart  in  the 
rows. 


Fig.  86.     Welsh  Onion. 


OPIUM    POPPY  185 

Depth  of  seed,  one-half  to  one  inch ;  of  divisions, 
as  before. 

Sow  the  seed  when  the  ground  is  fit;  in  mild 
climates  it  may  be  sown  in  the  fall.  Set  root  divisions 
in  spring. 

Thin  when  seedlings  are  four  to  six  inches  high,  to 
six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Culture  should  be  clean. 

Pick  the  leaves  when  the  plants  are  well  established  ; 
cut  for  use  as  wanted. 

Protection  is  necessary  in  northern  winters;  give  a 
mulch  of  hay,  straw,  or  leaves. 

Use  the  leaves  in  seasoning,  stripping  off  the  dry 
outer  coats. 

OPIUM  POPPY  (Papaver  somnifenim)  is  the  annual 
plant  from  which  opium  is  obtained,  but  grown  for  use 
in  domestic  medicine  as  yielding  from  its  capsules  a 
decoction  used  as  a  sedative  or  an  anodyne  application. 
Its  seeds  are  occasionally  used  in  cooking.  It  comes  in 
two  varieties,  the  carnation-flowered  and  peony-flow- 
ered. 

Soil  should  be  light  and  quick. 

Distances. — One  foot  each  way. 

Sow  in  mild  climates  in  fall.  Otherwise  sow  when 
the  ground  is  fit.  Or  sow  under  glass  in  pots,  and  set 
out.    Successive  sowings  are  possible  until  June. 

Gather  the  capsules  w^hen  ripe. 


186  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

ORACH,  often  called  French  or  Mountain  Spinach 
{Atriplex  hortensis),  is  an  annual  plant  grown  for  its 
leaves,  which  are  used  like  spinach,  and  sometimes 
cooked  with  sorrel.  It  is  tender  to  heat  and  quickly 
runs  to  seed  in  midsummer,  when  its  value  as  a  pot- 
herb is  gone ;  the  flower-stalk  should  therefore  be 
pinched  off  as  soon  as  it  appears.  Being  hardy  to  frost, 
it  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit,  for  an 
early  crop,  and  monthly  for  succession.  Varieties  are 
green,  red,  white,  and  copper-colored,  of  which  only 
the  red  and  white  are  usually  offered  in  America, 
though  the  green  is  recommended  strongly. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil. 

Distances. — Drills,  two  feet  apart. 

Depth  of  seed,  one-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit,  thinly. 

TMn  when  well  up,  at  about  six  inches,  to  one  foot 
in  the  rows.    Or 

Sow  in  seed-bed  rows  one  foot  apart,  thin  to  two 
inches,  and  transplant  to  one  by  two  feet. 

Pick  all  seed-pods  before  they  ripen,  or  the  plant 
will  seed  itself  and  become  a  pest. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  they  are  wanted. 

Succession. — Sow  in  April,  May  and  early  June,  and 
again  in  August  for  a  fall  crop. 

OYSTER  PLANT.    See  Salsify. 


PAK-CHOI  187 

OYSTER  PLANT,  SPANISH.    See  Scolymus. 

OYSTER,  VEGETABLE.    See  Salsify. 

OXALIS.    See  Oca,  also  Wood  Sorrel  (under  S.) 

PAK-CHOI,  or  Chinese  Cabbage  (Brassica  mnensis\ 
is  like  Pe-tsai,  but  does  not  head.  It  is  grown  for  its 
leaves,  used  for  salads  or  greens,  or  the  midribs  may  be 


Fig.  87.     Pak-Choi. 

served  like  asparagus.  Pak-choi  matures  in  about  six 
weeks,  but  bolts  in  heat,  and  is  best  sowti  in  late 
summer  for  a  fall  crop.    Otherwise  its  management  is 


188 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


much  like  that  of  Chard,  which  see,  under  its  manage- 
ment. 

Soil. — Rich,  cool,  moist. 

Distances. — Rows  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  in  late  July  or  August,  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand,  and  thin,  as  with  chard. 

Pick  when  the  leaves  are  twelve  inches  or  more  tall, 
and  before  the  seed-stalk  appears. 


•   ■  ■■••    -Z^; ,  -    ■  ."^ 

Fig.  88.    Seedlings  of  Parsley.    Natural  size. 

PARSLEY.  (See  also  Parsley,  Turnip-rooted.) 
Parsley  (Carum  Petroselinum)  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant, 
grown  for  its  leaves,  used  in  garnishing  and  seasoning, 
and  occasionally  in  salads.  It  is  a  plant  of  extremely 
slow  germination,  requiring  four  to  five  weeks,  and  is 
difficult  to  grow  (under  certain  and  not  very  well-under- 
stood conditions).  Once  established  it  does  well,  and  if  not 
too  heavily  cropped  will  continue  to  yield  steadily  until 
it  flowers,  when  its  value  is  lost.   Parsley  may  be   kept 


PARSLEY 


189 


outdoors  over  the  winter  in  a  frame,  or  may  be  taken 
into  the  house  to  be  picked  all  winter.  Use  curled  or 
fern-leaved  varieties;  the  common  is  too  much  like  the 
Fool's  or  Poisonous. 

Soil  should  be  a 
good,  deep,  medium, 
garden  earth,  well  tilled. 

Distances.  —  Rows 
one  foot  apart.    Plants 

eight    to    twelve    inches  Fi^-^^-    Parsley  plant. 

in  the  row.  On  very  fertile  land,  allow  eighteen  by 
twelve  inches  to  each  plant. 

Depth. — One-half  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April;  transplant  into 
pots,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  taproot.  Set  out 
when  well  hardened  and  the  ground  is  fit.    Or 

Sow  outdoors  when  the  ground  is  warm,  thickly,  and 
do  not  allow  the  earth  to  bake  over  the  seeds,  or  to  dry 
out.  When  well  up,  thin  or  transplant.  Seed-bed  cul- 
ture will  give  the  best  results,  and  the  plants  should 
not  be  allowed  to  crowd. 

Fertilize  from  time  to  time  with  nitrate  of  soda  or 
liquid  manure. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted,  never  all  at  one  time, 
when  the  plants  are  well  established,  usually  not  before 
three  months  from  seed.  Cut  off*  flower-stalks  to  pro- 
long the  yield. 

Successio7i,—So^w    for  succession    in  June,  and  for 


190         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

young  plants  to  carry  over  the  winter  under  glass,  in 
August. 

Protect  in  the  open  under  glass.    Or  mulch. 

Pot  some  of  the  plants  for  the  house.  They  do  well 
in  any  warm  window. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  chiefly  those  of  Parsnip  and 
Celery,  which  see.  Against  the  parsley-worm  use  helle- 
bore or  pyre  thrum  rather  than  arsenites. 

PARSLEY,  HAMBURG.  See  Parsley,  Turnip- 
Rooted. 

PARSLEY  PERT.    See  Samphire. 

PARSLEY,  TURNIP-ROOTED,  or  Hamburg,  is  a 
variety  with  large  parsnip-shaped  roots,  for  which  the 
plant  is  cultivated.  The  flavor  is  something  like 
Celeriac,  and  the  plant  is  cultivated  like  most  root- 
crops.  The  roots  will  stand  the  early  frosts,  but  like 
carrots  should  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  sand  for  win- 
ter use. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  earth,  preferably  rich  and 
cool,  not  freshly  manured. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  apart. 

Depth. — About  one-half  inch. 

Sow  thinly  in  the  rows  when  the  ground  is  fit,  or  in 
mild  climates  sow  in  the  fall.  Plants  mature  in  about 
tlu'ee  months  from  sprouting. 


PARSNIP 


191 


Thin  early  to  six  to  nine  inches  in  the  rows.  Trans- 
plant thinnings. 

Dig  spring -sown  roots  after  the  early  frosts.  Dig 
fall-sown  in  early  summer. 


PARSNIP  {Past'inaca  mtiva)  is  a  biennial  plant, 
grown  from  seed  for  its  thick  roots,  used  as  a  vegetable, 
and  in  soups  and  stews.  It  is  a  long-season  plant, 
requiring  the  ground  from  early  spring  till  fall;  it  is 


\^ 


f"^,i/^# 


Fig.  90.    Parsnip  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

very  hardy  to  frost,  and  the  roots  may  be  left  in  the 
ground  through  the  winter,  many  supposing  that  they 
are  improved  by  the  freezing,  though  Bailey  claims  that 
this  is  an  error,  since  all  they  need  is  to  be  kept  from 
shriveling.  As  Vihiiorin-Andrieux  says,  when  stored 
under  cover  they  sometimes  get  "spongy  and  strong- 
flavored."''  Therefore  store  in  sand,  or  leave  in  the 
ground  till  wanted.  Parsnips  require  deep  ground,  not 
recently  manured,  but  rich ;  as  the  seeds  are  slow  to 
germinate,  the  ground  should  not  be  allowed  to  bake 
over  them.    Once  the  plants  have  covered  the  ground 


192 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


with  their  fohage,  they  need  no  further  attention. 
Varieties  are  short  (or  round),  medium,  and  long. 
Diseases  and  pests  are  not  trouble- 
some. 

Soil  for  parsnips  should  be 
cool,  moist,  rich,  and  deep.  It 
should  not  bake  over  the  seeds, 
and  at  the  time 
of  planting 
must  be  deeply 
tilled,  that 
the  roots  may 
go  deep  and 
straight  and 
not    be    forced 

to  branch.  A  '"■''■  f"^^"'"- 
high  or  a  hard  subsoil  is  detri- 
mental to  Parsnip.  The  soil  should 
not  have  been  recently  manured, 
but  may  be  well  enriched  with  com- 
mercial fertilizer. 

Distances. — Rows,    eighteen    to 
twenty-four  inches  apart. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 
Seed  should  be  fresh,  as  it  loses 
in  germinating  power  after  the  first 
>  ^  vear.    For  this  reason,  and  because 

Long  Parsnips.  it  sprouts  slowly. 


PARSNIP— PEA  193 

Sow  thickly^  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 

Thin  when  well  up,  to  six  to  nine  inches. 

Culture. — Weed  and  cultivate  until  the  leaves  cover 
the  ground. 

Dig  in  the  fall,  as  needed,  and  before  the  ground 
freezes  store  the  winter  supply  in  sand  in  the  cellar,  or 
in  pits.  The  rest,  if  left  in  the  ground,  will  be  good  in 
spring. 

Pests. — For  Parsley-worm  and  Web-worm  use  arse- 
nites;  apply  early  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

PATIENCE,  or  PATIENCE  DOCK.    See  Sorrel. 

PEA  (Pisum  sativum).  Peas  are  hardy  annual  vege- 
tables, of  short  season  and  somewhat  tender  to  heat,  in 
Mhich  they  are  likely  to  fail  and  mildew  from  lack  of 
moisture.  In  America  they  are  almost  exclusively  plan- 
ted outdoors  where  they  are  to  grow,  but  in  England 
and  Europe  they  are  frequently  either  grown  entirely 
under  glass,  or  started  so  and  transplanted  to  the  field. 
If  this  is  done  in  early  spring,  coldframes  are  probably 
the  best,  as  Peas  are  sensitive  to  heat.  It  appears  from 
Vilmorin-Andrieux  and  Nicholson  that  in  France  and 
England  Peas  may  be  sown  outdoors  in  the  autumn 
for  an  early  spring  crop,  but  that  is  never  done  in 
America,  as  in  our  long  winters  the  seed  would  spoil. 
Management  of  Peas  is  largely  with  us  a  question  of 
type.  Peas  classifying  into  smooth-  and  wrinkled-seeded, 


194 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


and  again  into  dwarf,  half-dwarf,  and  tall,  ^^■hich  are 
practically  early,  medium,  and  late.  The  smooth-seeded 
are  the  earliest  and  hardiest,  but  the  wrinkled-seeded 
of  better    quality;  the  dwarfs  of  both    are    their 


are 


earliest.  Among  vegetable  gardeners  the  smooth-seeded 
Peas  are  not  in  favor  except  for  the  earliest  crop ;  after 
that  it  is  possible  to  get  the  wrinkled-seeded  on  vines  of 


Pea  seedlings.   Two-thirds  natural  size. 


all  heights,  the  taller  the  more  prolific.  Dwarf  Peas  do 
not  need  to  be  supported ;  the  half-dwarf  and  tall 
should  be  supplied  with  brush  or  chicken-wire  to  climb 
on,  set  at  the  time  of  planting.  For  economy  of  space 
Peas  are  usually  planted  in  two  rows  close  together,  the 
support  between ;  dwarf  Peas  thus  planted  will  support 
each  other.  Late  planted  Peas  should  be  put  in  deep, 
for  the  sake  of  moisture  ;  it  is  well  to  plant  in  a  trench 
and  fill  in  as  the  plants  grow.  The  soil  for  Peas  should 
not  be  verv  rich ;    for  early  Peas  it  should  be  light,  for 


PEA 


195 


later  heavier.  Coarse  manure  is  best  not  used  on  pea 
land,  unless  trenched  in  in  the  foreign  fashion;  but  a 
little  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  may  be  scattered 
on  the  land  to  give  a  quick  start.  Varieties  are  very 
numerous,  within  the 
types  above  given;  for 
uniform  results,  buy 
only  the  best  seed.  Dis- 
eases and  pests  are 
sometimes  troublesome. 
Soil. —  Besides  the 
remarks  above  it  may 
be  said  that  advance 
preparation  of  the  soil 
is  advisable  for  Peas, 
and  that  they  are  best 
grown  on  land  which  in 
a  previous  year  has  been 
well  enriched.  The  ni- 
trogen applied  to  the 
soil  before  sowing  is 
not  necessary  if  the  soil  ^^-  «^-   ^'^^^^  p^^"*  «^  ^^^^^^  p^^- 

is  known  to  have  the  nitrofiien-ccatherino;  bacteria: 
once  the  plants  have  got  well  started  they  will  gather 
their  nitrogen  from  the  air.  In  fact,  too  much  or  too 
fresh  manure,  or  an  over-supply  of  nitrogen,  will  make 
the  plants  run  to  vine,  in  which  case  they  will  have  to 
be  persistently  pinched  back. 


196         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

Soil-inoculation  of  nitrogen-gathering  bacteria  (see 
Bulletin  No.  71,  Bureau  of  Plant  Industry)  is  possible 
and  under  the  right  circumstances  effective  by  means 
of  cultures  which  can  be  obtained  of  the  Bureau  of 
Plant  Industry,  Washington,  D.  C.  Or  buy  of  private 
firms,  whose  product,  however,  is  not  always  good. 

Distances  are  according  to  variety.  Planting  in 
double  rows,  six  to  eight  inches  apart,  is  recommended 
for  all  kinds  of  Peas.  Spaces  between  the  double  rows 
should  be  eighteen  inches  to  four  feet,  according  to 
to  variety. 

Depth  is  somewhat  according  to  season,  but  also  to 
the  nature  of  the  land.  Early  Peas  in  heavy  land  may 
go  one  inch  deep;  in  light  land  about  two  inches.  Later 
in  the  season  plant  two  to  three  inches  and  in  June  sow 
in  trenches  five  to  six  inches  deep,  and  fill  in  as  the 
plants  grow.  In  porous  soil  plant  deeper,  in  heavy  land 
more  shallow. 

Seed  should  be  sowed  thickly  for  the  early  crop,  for 
the  later  about  one-half  to  one  inch  apart,  the  dwarfs 
the  closest  together.  Soak  the  seed  after  the  ground  is 
warm. 

Sow  smooth  Peas  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be 
worked  in  spring.  Peas  and  onions  are  the  earliest  to 
be  sowed.  Sow  wrinkled  Peas  when  the  heavy  frosts  are 
past,  about  the  middle  of  April.  From  that  time  on, 
sow  every  ten  days  for  succession  until  early  June.  Sow 
again  in  August,  early  varieties  for  a  fall  crop. 


PEA  197 

Thin  to  three  to  four  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Cultivation  should  be  shallow,  to  preserve  the  mois- 
ture of  the  ground  and  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Pinch 
off  the  ends  of  the  vines  if  they  grow  too  rank ;  if  the 
ground  is  much  too  rich  this  must  be  done  repeatedly. 

Pick  the  pods  as  they  fill  out,  whether  needed  or  not, 
to  lengthen  the  yield. 

Support. — Devices  are  numerous,  brush,  string,  and 
chicken-wire  being  the  most  common. 

Protection  from  birds  is  frequently  necessary  with 
Peas.  Use  mosquito  netting  for  absolute  protection,  or 
hang  strips  of  cloth  or  tin  above  the  rows. 

Forcing. — For  forcdng,  the  dwarf  varieties  are  best. 

Diseases. — Mildew  is  likely  to  come  in  summer. 
Spray  with  fungicides,  mixed  with  soap  to  make  them 
adhere ;  or  use  powders,  such  as  fostite  (Lodeman) 
when  the  vines  are  wet.  Against  blight-fungus,  use 
healthy  seed,  keep  vines  from  ground,  spray  with  Bor- 
deaux. 

Pests. — The  pea-weevil  lays  its  eggs  in  the  young 
pods,  and  the  larvae  live  in  the  Peas.  Sow  with 
the  seed  sand  or  coal-ashes  saturated  with  carbolic  acid. 
Treat  affected  seed  as  soon  as  picked,  with  bisulphide 
of  carbon  in  a  tight  receptacle,  or  heat  to  140°  Fahr. 
for  an  hour.  Destroy  all  waste  seed,  and  buy  only  the 
best.  Plant  late;  or  hold  seed  over  for  a  year  in  a 
tight  bag  or  box. 

Pea-louse. — Brush    from    the   vines,   and   cultivate. 


198  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Spray  with  whale-oil  soap,  one  pound  in  six  gallons  of 
water. 

Moth. — Pick  the  pods  while  young,  and  let  none 
ripen;  rotation.    Destroy  vines;  plow  in  fall. 

For  blister-beetles  and  other  pests  which  injure 
beans,  see  under  Bean.  For  plant-lice,  plant-bugs,  and 
leaf-hoppers,  underspray  with  kerosene  emulsion. 

For  caterpillars,  hand  picking,  arsenites  (wash 
before  shelling).    For  cutworms,  bait  as  under  cabbage. 

PEA,  EDIBLE-PODDED  or  SUGAR,  is  a  type  of 
pea  ^\'ith  tender  pods,  which  are  eaten  exactly  like 
string  beans,  and  are  much  esteemed  in  Europe.  They 
should  be  better  known  in  America.  Their  culture  is 
like  other  peas,  according  to  the  sizes  of  the  vines, 
dwarf,  half-dwarf,  and  tall.  The  peas  should  be  picked 
before  they  ripen. 

PEA,  WINGED,  is  a  prostrate  annual  plant  of  the 
pea  family  of  little  apparent  value,  the  pods  eaten  like 
Sugar  Peas,  or  the  seed,  when  ripe  and  roasted,  ground 
as  a  substitute  for  coffee. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit,  in  rows  eighteen  inches 
apart. 

Depth. — Two  to  four  inches,  according  to  soil  and 
season. 

Thin  to  four  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Soil  as  for  other  peas. 


PEANUT  199 

PEANUT  (Jrachis  hypogcea),  often  called  Ground- 
nut, Earth-nut  or  Goober,  and  sometimes  Ground-pea, 
Manila-nut,  Jur-nut,  and  Pindar,  is  an  annual  legumi- 
nous plant  grown  for  its  "nuts,"  which  are  really  peas. 
The  peculiarity  of  the  plant  is  that  after  flowering  the 
stalks  thrust  themselves  into  the  ground  and  ripen  there, 
dying  within  a  few  hours  if  they  are  unable  to  pene- 
trate the  ground.  The  Peanut  plant  is  very  tender  to 
frost,  and  is  not  grown  with  success  north  of  New 
Jersey,  except  as  a  curiosity  giving  a  small  yield. 
Commercially  the  plant  is  of  great  importance  in  the 
South,  and  still  more  so  in  other  semi-tropical  parts 
of  the  world,  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  its  oil  and  meal. 
It  makes  an  excellent  forage-crop.  Varieties  are  the 
Virginia  (Running  and  Bunch,  or  White  and  Red), 
Tennessee  (AVhite  and  Red)  and  (smaller  varieties),  the 
Georgia  (Red),  North  Carolina  (or  African)  and 
Spanish.  The  Virginia  and  the  Tennessee  are  the  most 
grown;  the  Spanish  has  small  kernels  of  good  quality, 
and  brings  the  highest  prices. 

Soil. — All  varieties  except  the  Spanish  require  a 
calcareous  soil;  if  lime  is  not  present  the  plants  pro- 
duce a  large  proportion  of  "pops,"  or  shells  without 
seeds.  The  Peanut  will  give  heaviest  yields  on  stiff" 
land,  but  commercially  the  crop  thus  produced  is  of 
little  value,  as  the  pods  are  stained,  making  them 
unmarketable.  Light  soils  give  light-colored  pods, 
which  are  in  demand.    In  the  North  light  soils  should 


200 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


be  used  on  account  of  earliness.  The  Spanish  will 
"make  profitable  returns  wherever  the  cowpea  will 
succeed.""  (Arkansas  Bulletin  No.  84.)  The  soil  should 
be  finely  pulverized  before  planting.    Light  dressings 


'^,  "itfff^'l^'ff"     phpiiilf  fijljff, 


Fig.  95.    Peanuts,  drying. 

of  barnyard  manure  may  be  previously  ploughed  in, 
and  lime  (of  any  kind  if  well  burned),  phosphoric  acid 
(best  as  fine  ground  phosphatic  slag,  or  superphosphate 
on  heavy  land)  and  potash  (best  as  kainit)  may  be 
previously  applied  in  the    furrow  or    broadcast    after 


PEANUT  201 

planting  and  cultivated  in.  Use  lime  at  the  rate  of 
30  bushels  per  acre,  or  marl  at  100  to  150  bushels  per 
acre,  if  there  is  plenty  of  humus  in  the  soil ;  otherwise 
apply  in  smaller  quantities,  adding  also  humus  from 
year  to  year.  By  proper  rotation,  Peanuts  will  assist 
to  continually  improve  the  land,  since  they  gather 
nitrogen  from  the  air,  and  store  it  in  the  ground.  But 
in  most  of  the  Peanut  sections  the  soil  has  been  im- 
poverished by  a  too  steady  drain  upon  it. 

Distances  are  chiefly  according  to  variety,  though 
the  fertility  of  the  land  should  be  considered.  Rows 
from  two  to  three  and  one-half  feet  apart ;  hills  in  the 
row,  six  inches  to  two  feet.  The  Virginia  are  usually 
grown  eighteen  by  thirty-six  inches ;  the  Spanish,  six  by 
twenty-four  inches. 

Depth, — About  four  inches. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past,  in  the  North  about  June 
1,  two  seeds  to  the  hill.  Or  start  under  glass  in  pots 
in  April,  and  set  out  when  frosts  are  past. 

Seed  is  best  shelled,  taking  care  not  to  break  the 
skin  of  the  kernel.  The  Spanish,  however,  is  frequently 
planted  in  the  shell,  which  is  merely  broken  in  two. 

Culture  should  be  level;  it  is  a  mistake  to  hill. 
The  chief  object  is  to  keep  down  weeds  and  preserve 
the  surface- mulch  until  the  vines  cover  the  ground. 

Dig  before  frost,  which  will  injure  the  nuts. 

Dry  the  nuts  carefully,  and  store  in  bags  away  from 
frost  and  moisture. 


202 


THE    BOOK    OF    \  EGETABLES 


PENNYROYAL  {Mentha  pulegium)  is  of  the  Mint 
fariiilv,  and   is  cultivated  exactly  like  Mint,  which  see. 

PEPPER  or  CAPSICUM  {Capsicum  annuurn)  is  a 
hot-season  plant  which  will  endure  some  frost,  but  for 
best  results  in  the  North  should  be  started  under  fflass. 


5': 


S'y. 


Fig.  96.    Seedlings  of  Pepper.    Natural  size. 

The  plants  are  grown  for  their  fruit :  that  of  the  small 
varieties  is  used  for  pickling;  that  of  the  larger  is  used 
for  "mangoes''  and  "stuffed  peppers."  The  larger 
varieties  bear  large  fleshy  fruits  of  a  mild  or  even  sweet 
flavor;  the  small  peppers,  especially  the  so-called  Chili 
Peppers,  are  hot  and  peppery,  although  quite  distinct, 
botanically,  from  the  Pepper  of  commerce.  Varieties 
differ  in  shape,  size,  and  pungency.  "Green  Peppers"" 
are  the  unripe  fruits. 


PEPPER    OR    CAPSICUM 


203 


Soil  should  be  light,  warm,  and  rich,  but  not  dry. 

Distances  should  be  somewhat  according  to  the  size 
of  the  variety,  from  one  foot  by  two  up  to  thirty  inches 
bv  eighteen. 


Fig.  97.    Peppers,  the  large  Ij  pe. 


Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sozv  under  glass  in  March,  and  prick  out,  preferably 
into  pots.    Sow  outdoors  when  frosts  are  past,  about 


204 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


the  end  of  May,  in  hills  or  drills.    Three  or  four  seeds 
to  the  hill.   Or  sow  in  sheltered  seed-bed  and  transplant. 
Thin  seed-bed  rows    at  the    fourth   leaf,  to    three 
inches.   Thin  hills  to  one  plant. 

Set  out  house-grown  plants  when   frosts  are  past, 

after  hardening. 

Transplant  with 
plenty  of  earth,  at  five 
or  six  inches. 

Culture. — Give  clean 
cultivation.  Large  fruits 
may  be  grown  by 
pinching  off  all  blos- 
soms after  the  first  few 
fruits  have  set,  and  by 
cutting  back  the  ends. 
Support. — It  is  well 
to  tie  the  plants  to 
stakes  in  the  case  of  a 
heavy  crop.    Earthing  the  stems  is  not  so  good. 

Pick  at  about  twenty  weeks  from  seed,  until  frost. 
Cut  the  fruit  with  an  inch  of  stem,  and  do  not  tear  it 
from  the  plant.  If  the  hands  are  burnt  while  handling 
Peppers,  soothe  with  milk. 

Diseases. — Anthracnose  (pink  and  black)  may  be 
partly  controlled  by  Bordeaux. 


Fig.  98. 


Young  Pepper  plant,  ready  for 
setting  out-of-doors. 


PEPPERGRASS.    See  Cress. 


PEPPERGRASS— PE-TSAI 


205 


PEPPERGRASS,  CALIFORNIA  {Brasska  Japonka), 
is  grown  as  a  pot-herb  for  its  leaves.  It  often  runs 
wild,  and  deserves  to  be  better  known.  Cultivate  like 
spinach  or  collards. 

PEPPERMINT.    See  Mint. 


PE-TSAI,  or  Chinese  Cabbage  {Brasska  Pe-tsai),  is 
a  plant  of  the  cabbage  family,  grown  for  its  head  of 
leaves,  which  much  resembles  a  head  of  Cos  lettuce,  but 
is  usually  boiled  as  a  pot-herb.  As  it  bolts  in  heat,  it 
is  best  sown   in  late  July  or  August,  for  a  fall  vege- 


n-^'y^S^T^^S^^^ 


Fig.  99.    Pe-Tsai,  or  Chinese  Cabbage. 

tabl-e.  It  will  stand  frost.  Varieties  are  few ;  pests  are 
those  of  the  cabbage  family. 

Soil, — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  cool  and 
moist. 

Distances. — Eighteen  by  twelve  inches. 


206         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  thinly  in  late  July  or  August,  and  thin  in  the 
rows,  or  sow  in  seed-bed  and  transplant.  Thinnings 
may  be  transplanted. 

Pick  before  the  plant  goes  to'  seed,  which  it  does 
quickly  in  hot  weather. 

PICRIDIUM  VULGARE  is  the  name  given  by 
Thompson  to  French  Scorzonera,  which  see,  under  S. 

PIE-PLANT.    See  Rhubarb. 

PIGWEED,  or  Lamb's  Quarter  (Chenopodium  album), 
is  sometimes  grown  in  gardens  as  a  pot-herb.  Treat 
like  spinach.  (The  name  Pigweed  is  also  applied  to  the 
green  amaranth,  Arnarantus  retrofiexus,  a  common  barn- 
yard weed.) 

PIMPINELLA,  or  Pimpernel,  or  Burnet  Saxifrage 
(Pimpinella  Saxifraga),  is  a  plant  grown  for  its  leaves, 
used  in  salads,  having  a  cucumber  flavor.  It  is  little 
used.    Culture  is  like  that  of  Anise,  to  which  it  is  allied. 

PINDAR.    See  Peanut. 

PLANTAIN.    See  Bucks-Horn  Plantain 

POPPY,  OPIUM.    See  Opium  Poppy. 


POTATO  207 

POTATO  {Solantum  tuherosurn\  often  called  White, 
Common,  or  Irish  Potato,  is  grown  for  its  root-enlarge- 
ments, or  tubers.  Although  unknown  to  civilization 
until  the  sixteenth  century,  the  potato  is  now  one  of 
the  most  important  crops  in  the  world.  A  perennial 
plant  in  its  native  valleys  of  ^lexico  and  South  America, 
it  is  grown  as  an  annual,  being  tender  to  frost ;  the 
tubers  are  injured  by  freezing.  Success  with  the  potato 
requires  several  proper  conditions,  the  chief  being  the 
soil  and  its  preparation,  the  seed,  the  culture,  and  the 
means  taken  to  check  disease  and  kill  pests.  The  soil 
should  be  neither  dry  nor  wet;  it  should  not  be  infes- 
ted with  scab,  for  which  reason  also  it  should  not  have 
been  recently  dressed  with  fresh  manure ;  it  should  be 
rich.  The  seed  should  be  good,  preferably  northern - 
grown,  from  the  most  vigorous-growing  plants  and  free 
from  scab.  Culture  should  begin  early  and  not  cease 
until  the  plants  shade  the  ground.  Early  and  repeated 
spraying  is  necessary  to  ward  oiF  blight  and  insects. 
Careless,  ignorant,  or  haphazard  methods,  so  usual  with 
our  farmers,  are  fortunate  if  they  bring  success,  and  the 
amateur,  well  read  in  experiment-station  literature,  can 
often  beat  the  farmer  at  his  own  game.  At  the  same 
time  experience  is  necessary  for  steady  success  with 
potatoes,  and  knowledge  of  the  fertilizing  requirements 
of  each  individual  plot  is  needed  to  produce  good 
results  economically.  While  the  following  advice  is  for 
o-arden    rather  than    farm   conditions,  its    lessons    are 


208         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

drawn  from  federal  and  state  experiments  on  a  large 
scale. 

Varieties  |of  Potatoes  are,  historically,  almost  innu- 
merable; for  practical  use  they  are  early,  medium,  and 
late.  New  varieties  are  rarely  maintained,  and  the  ama- 
teur or  beginner  will  be  wise  to  buy  a  variety  locally 
well  known  and  successful,  rather  than  buy  at  high 
prices  a  novelty  which  may  not  have  been  sufficiently 
tested.  Experiments  are  now  under  way  at  many 
stations,  to  produce  or  find  disease-resistant  varieties. 

Potato  crops  are  usually  early  and  late,  though  for 
the  garden  a  third  crop  is  easily  obtained,  by  starting 
under  glass.  Earliness  is  partly  a  matter  of  variety, 
but  may  be  helped  by  sprouting  the  seed-piece,  using 
"quick"  fertilizers,  and  by  planting  on  early  land  pre- 
pared in  the  previous  fall. 

The  worst  insect  enemy  of  the  potato  is  the  beetle 
or  potato-bug.  The  worst  diseases  are  scab  and  the 
early  and  late  blights. 

Soil. — Soil  should  first  of  all  be  free  of  scab;  good 
potatoes  cannot  be  grown  on  infested  land.  If  potatoes 
or  beets  known  to  have  scab  have  been  grown  on  a  given 
plot,  it  must  be  given  to  other  crops  for  several  years 
before  Potatoes  can  safely  be  grown  on  it. 

Potatoes  require  a  deep  and  moderately  light  or 
sandy  loam,  well  supplied  with  humus,  and  with  an 
open  subsoil.  If  the  soil  is  heavy,  the  tubers  cannot  so 
easily  enlarge  ;  if  clayey,  the  ground  will  be  too  wet ; 


FOTATO 


209 


if  light  and  with  little  humus,  the  gi'ound  will  be  too 
dry ;  if  the  subsoil  is  hard,  there  will  be  poor  drainage, 
and  the  roots,  which  sometimes  penetrate  to  a  depth 
of  four  feet,  cannot  go  so  deeply  as  they  should.    Soil 


Fig.  100.    A  hill  of  Potatoes  in  stiff  soil.    The  tubers  are  too  near  the 
surface.    The  old-piece  is  at  A. 

which  with  good  surface-cultivation  will  keep  its  mois- 
ture through  a  dry  spell  and  which  in  a  wet  season  will 
not  hold  standing  moisture  is  best  for  Potatoes.  If 
there  is  a  choice  of  soils,  sow  early  Potatoes  on  the 
lighter,  the  main  crop  on  the  heavier. 

The  soil  should  be  rich.    Humus,  if  supplied  in  the 


210         THE   BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

year  the  Potatoes  are  grown,  may  come  from  good  com- 
post or  very  well-rotted  manure.  If  fresh,  the  manure 
may  cause  scab.  For  safety,  the  manure  is  best  supplied 
in  the  fall,  and  ploughed  in;  or  it  could  be  heavily  fed 
to  the  previous  crop.  Or  in  farm  operations  green 
manure  (leguminous  crops),  ploughed  in,  will  both  give 
humus  and  help  to  open  up  the  subsoil. 

Chemical  fertilizers  may  previously  be  applied  at 
the  rate  of  about  fifteen  hundred  pounds  per  acre.  If 
the  Potatoes  are  grown  on  a  large  scale,  a  special  study 
of  the  needs  of  the  soil  is  advisable.  (See  Texas  Bulle- 
tin No.  71).  For  smaller  operations  a  high-grade  ferti- 
lizer may  be  used,  rich  in  potash.  This  should  be  ap- 
plied down  the  rows  and  well  covered  or  worked  into 
the  soil  before  the  Potatoes  are  planted. 

Over-feeding,  either  with  manure  or  with  chemical 
fertilizers,  is  not  advisable,  as  too  rank  a  growth  of  foli- 
age invites  blight. 

The  soil  should  be  in  the  best  of  physical  condition. 

Sod-land  (grass  land  freshly  turned),  lightly  dressed 
with  well-rotted  manure  and  M'ith  about  one  thousand 
pounds  of  fertilizer,  is  good  for  potatoes. 

Seed,  like  land,  should  be  free  of  scab.  It  should  be 
of  the  very  finest.  Northern-grown  seed,  especially 
that  from  Maine  and  Vermont,  is  considered  the  best. 
(Seed  is  here  used  in  the  sense  of  seed-piece.  Actual 
potato-seed  is  never  used  except  by  experimenters  for 
new  varieties.) 


POTATO  211 

The  seed-piece. — Many  experiments  have  been  made, 
to  ascertain  the  proper  size  of  the  seed-piece.  Each 
Potato  has  a  seed  or  a  bud  end,  which  sprouts  early 
and  has  the  most  eyes;  and  a  butt  or  stem  end  which 
is  slow  to  start,  and  which  is  rejected  by  many  growers. 
It  has  been  proved  that  the  size  of  the  piece,  rather 
than  the  number  of  eyes  on  it,  is  of  importance  in 
giving  good  results;  consequently,  whole  Potatoes  have 
been  shown  to  give  the  largest  yield  both  of  salable 
and  small  Potatoes.  If  used  whole, 
moderate-sized,  rather  than  very  large 
or  very  small  Potatoes,  are  the  best  to 
use  for  seed. 

But  the  expense  of  planting  whole  p.  ^^^  ^  ^^^ 
tubers   is   so   great   that   practically  to        potato  cutting, 

^       ,     ^     ^p  ,  •  •  •  or  seed-piece. 

plant  hall  or  quarter  pieces  is  wiser, 
except  for  small  areas.  All  pieces  should  be  chunky, 
and  not  thin;  pieces  the  size  of  hens'  eggs  are  proper, 
weighing  about  three  ounces.  If  they  have  to  be  stored 
after  cutting,  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  with  wet  cloths 
laid  over  the  box  to  keep  them  from  wilting. 

Starting  before  planting. — For  early  results.  Potatoes 
may  be  artificially  started.  Ordinary  methods  allow 
the  Potatoes  to  be  exposed  to  light  and  air  in  a  room 
of  moderate  warmth  until  the  Potatoes  sprout,  when 
they  are  cut  and  planted. 

A  better  method  is  to  select  the  Potatoes  of  a 
uniform  size,  and  to  range  them,  seed-end  up,  either  in 


212  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

dry  sand  in  shallow  boxes  or  in  trays  with  slat  bottom?. 
To  save  space  the  trays  may  be  set  in  a  rack,  with 
circulation  of  air  between  them.  Expose  to  the  light 
(but  not  the  sun)  in  a  room  of  fairly  uniform  tempera- 
ture at  from  60°  to  75°,  six  to  eight  weeks  before  the 
time  for  setting  out.  When  the  Potatoes  are  ready  to 
set  out  they  may  be  held  back,  for  as  much  as  a  fort- 
night if  weather  conditions  are  poor,  by  controlling 
the  temperature;  at  the  right  time  they  may  be  set 
out,  and  will  give  marketable  results  a  week  to  a  month 
before  the  ordinary  crop,  while  the  yield  is  likely  to  be 
larger.  An  advantage  of  this  method  is  that  the  seed 
Potatoes  need  be  no  larger  than  hen's  eggs. 

By  still  another  method  the  Potatoes,  cut  in  half 
lengthwise,  or  to  ordinary  seed -pieces,  may  be  set 
closely  in  a  coldframe  and  covered  with  four  inches  of 
light  earth.  Give  enough  air  to  prevent  condensation 
of  moisture  on  the  glass,  and  in  a  late  season  keep  the 
frame  cool  so  that  the  Potatoes  will  not  come  on  too 
fast.  Started  about  two  months  before  they  are  wanted, 
(or  late  in  March)  in  an  ordinary  season  the  sprouts 
will  just  be  showing  above  ground  at  the  right  time. 
They  are  then  set  carefully  in  the  field,  and  will  give 
an  early  yield.  (See  Rhode  Island  Bulletin  No.  36.) 
Similar  treatment  in  a  hotbed  will  bring  them  on  more 
quickly.  For  very  small  operations,  Potatoes  may  be 
started  in   pots  under  glass. 

Distances-. — Rows  apart,   for  hand  culture,  twenty- 


POTATO 


213 


four  to  thirty  inches;  for  horse  culture,  three  feet  or 
more.  Plants  in  the  row,  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart;  the  richer  the  soil  and  the  better  prepared  the 
closer  they  may  stand.  The  custom  of  planting  two 
small  seed-pieces  close  together  is  not  so  wise  as  that 
of  planting  one  of  large  size,  which  will  not  dry  out  so 
quickly  in  a  drought,  and  will  better  withstand  wet. 


Fig.  102.    Underground  parts  of  the  Potato  plant,  at  the  right  depth. 
The  withered  seed-piece  is  between  the  four  tubers. 

Distances  are  also  a  matter  of  variety :  plant  strong- 
growing  or  large-yielding  kinds  farther  apart. 

Depth. — In  heavy,  clayey  soils  three  inches  may  be 
allowed.  But  generally  speaking,  it  is  not  wise  to  plant 
less  than  four  inches  deep;  if  planted  shallower  the 
tubers  may  be  sunburnt,  if  deeper  the  cost  of  digging 
increases  too  much.  It  is  well,  however,  to  plant  the 
late  crop  a  little  deeper  than  the  earlier. 

Sow. — For  early  crop,  sprouted  under  glass,  set  out 
when  frosts  are  past,  about  the  last  week  in  May.    Set 


214         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

seed-pieces  for  medium  crop  about  May  1,  or  when  heavy 
frosts  are  over.  For  late  crop,  set  seed-pieces  the  first 
week  in  June. 

Transplanting. — In  setting  out  Potatoes  which 
have  ah'eady  sprouted,  be  careful  not  to  break  the 
sprouts. 

Culture. — Cultivate  once  or  twice  before  the  Pota- 
toes break  ground,  to  kill  the  weeds  and  preserve  the 
mulch.  After  the  plants  are  up,  in  case  of  frost  cover 
them  with  straw  or  earth  at  night.  Make  every  effort 
to  preserve  soil-moisture.  Cultivate  after  rains,  and 
keep  the  soil  in  good  condition,  until  the  plants  cover 
the  ground.  The  early  cultivations  may  be  deep,  but 
when  once  the  plants  are  growing  well  cultivation 
should  be  shallow,  on  account  of  the  surface-feeding 
roots.  For  the  same  reason  it  is  not  advisable  to  hill 
up  the  plants,  unless  the  loam  was  so  thin  that  shallow 
planting  was  necessary,  or  unless  the  plants  are  of  an 
early  variety  which  forms  its  tubers  near  the  surface. 
In  these  cases  hilling  may  save  the  Potatoes  from  sun- 
scald,  but  moisture  will  be  wasted  and  the  upper  roots 
will  be  injured.  To  keep  the  soil  in  good  condition 
from  five  to  ten  cultivations  will  be  necessary,  according 
to  conditions. 

Mulching  with  hay  or  manure  is  possible  in  garden 
practice,  to  increase  the  yield  and  save  labor.  Apply 
when  the  plants  are  growing  well. 

Fertilizer. — As    above    stated,    fertilizer    should  be 


POTATO  215 

applied  to  the  ground  before  planting  the  crop.  Some 
growers  apply  the  fertilizer  broadcast  before  sowing, 
and  harrow  it  in;  many  cast  it  directly  in  the  row  and 
cover  it  with  earth  before  dropping  the  seed-pieces.  In 
any  case  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  touch  the  seed- 
pieces. 

The  mixture  may  contain  nitrogen  three  per  cent, 
preferably  as  nitrate  of  soda ;  phosphoric  acid  six  percent, 
preferably  as  dissolved  boneblack  or  superphosphate; 
and  potash  ten  per  cent,  preferably  as  sulphate  of 
potash. 

Or,  using  a  different  formula,  an  application  of 
1,300  pounds  per  acre  may  be  given  by  a  mixture  of 
100  pounds  nitrate  of  soda,  300  pounds  cotton-seed 
meal,  200  pounds  ground  bone,  400  pounds  acid 
phosphate,  300  pounds  sulphate  or  muriate  of  potash; 
the  formula  being  nitrogen  3  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid 
3  per  cent,  potash  12  per  cent.  It  should  be  remarked 
that  the  sulphate  of  potash  gives  a  better-looking  Potato 
than  the  muriate. 

Voorhees  remarks  that  for  late  Potatoes,  having  a 
longer  period  of  growth  and  usually  grown  on  heavier 
soils,  applications  of  600  to  800  pounds  per  acre  may 
prove  enough,  the  formula  to  be  nitrogen  2h  per  cent, 
phosphoric  acid  6  per  cent,  potash  8  per  cent. 

Harvesting. — The  early  crop  may  be  dug  when  the 
Potatoes  are  of  marketable  size.  Very  early  Potatoes 
may  be  got  for  the  home  table  by  carefully  digging  a 


216 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


few  from  each  plant,  taking  care  not  to  injure  it.  This 
operation  is  called  "grabbling,""  and  is  occasionally 
resorted  to  by  market-gardeners. 

For  the  late  crop,  remember  that  so  long  as  any 
part  of  the  plant  is  green  the  tubers  continue  to  grow. 
At  a  Vermont  Station  test  "more  than  one-third  of  the 
crop  was  made  after  September  1.""*  (Farmers  Bulletin 
No.  35.) 

Dig  carefully  with  an  ordinary  fork,  which  is 
probably  better  than  the  potato  hoe;  for  large  opera- 
tions there  are  special  machines.  It  is  wise  to  keep 
the  Potatoes  from  the  sun. 

Storage. — After  the  Potatoes  are  dug,  get  them 
away  from  the  light  as  soon  as  possible,  and  store  in 

bins  or  barrels  in  a 
cool,  dry  and  dark 
place.  Storage  in 
the  South  is  a 
troublesome  matter, 
and  the  "  seed '"  has 
often  to  be  im- 
ported. Potatoes 
should  not  be 
frozen,  as  they  are 
thereby  ruined. 

Diseases    a  n  d 
pests  are  chiefly,  to 

Fig.  103.  The  two  potato-blights.  Early  blight      .  i  ^orf «       aViovP 

on  the  right,  late  or  true  blight  on  the  left.         ^"^       pax  us       auuvc 


POTATO 


217 


ground,  early  or  leaf  blight,  late  or  true  blight  (some- 
times called  rot),  brown  rot,  the  flea- beetle,  and  the 
potato-beetle,  or  potato-bug.  These  can  one  and  all  be 
controlled  by  spraying  with  a  mixture  of  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture and  Paris  green.  Convincing  figures  are  given  in 
Bulletin    No.    221,    New    York    Experiment    Station, 


"W 


Fig.  104.    Adult  of  the  Colorado 
beetle,  or  "Potato  bug." 


105.    Potato  flea-beetle. 
Much  enlarged. 


Geneva,  1902,  also  Bulletins  Nos.  264  and  267,  1905, 
to  show  that  not  only  for  diseases  and  pests  but  also 
for  the  plants  themselves  Bordeaux  mixture  mixed  with 
some  arsenite,  usually  Paris  green,  will  give  results  that 
will  more  than  repay  the  cost.  "  Commence  spraying 
when  the  plants  are  six  to  eight  inches  high  and  repeat 
the  treatment  at  intervals  of  about  two  weeks  as  long 
as  the  plants  remain  green.  Usually  six  applications  will 
be  required.  Use  the  one  to  eight  formula  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, adding  Paris  green  or  other  arsenical  poison  when 
'bugs'are  plentiful."  Apply  thoroughly.  It  is  not  wise  to 
wait  for  the  appearance  of  disease,  but  "those  who  wish 


218         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

to  get  along  with  three  sprayings  should  postpone  till 
there  is  danger  of  injury  from  'bugs'  or  flea-beetles, 
and  then  spray  thoroughly.  .  .  .  There  is  no  excuse 
for  using  Paris  green  alone  for  '  bugs."*  Whenever  it  is 
necessary  to  fight  insects  alone,  use  Bordeaux  containing 
Paris  green."' — New  York  Bulletin  No.  221.  Use  four 
to  six  ounces  of  Paris  green  to  every  fifty  gallons. 

Scab  is  an  underground  enemy  of  Potato,  causing  the 
familiar  roughnesses  of  the  skin.  Against  it:  (1)  Plant 
on  scab-free  land.  (2)  Treat  the  seed,  either  with  a 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate  (two  and  one-half  ounces 
in  two  gallons  hot  water ;  dilute  in  ten  hours  to  fifteen 
gallons)  or  with  formalin  (mix  eight  fluid  ounces  of 
formalin  ["otherwise  known  as  forty  per  cent  formic 
aldehyde"' — Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  91]  with  fifteen  gal- 
lons M^ater).  Seed-potatoes  should  be  thoroughly 
washed,  and  soaked  in  the  solutions,  corrosive  sublimate 
for  one  and  one-half  hours,  formalin  for  two  hours. 
All  seed  soaked  in  corrosive  sublimate  should  be  either 
used  or  destroyed,  on  account  of  the  poison.  Or  roll 
the  seed-pieces  in  sulphur,  three  hundred  pounds  per 
acre,  strewing  the  remainder  of  the  sulphur  in  the  open 
row. 

Minor  troubles  of  the  Potato  are:  Tip-burn,  leaf- 
burn,  or  scald,  caused  by  too  wet  or  too  dry  w^eather: 
spray  with  Bordeaux  and  cultivate  carefully.  The  mole 
cricket,  usual  on  wet  land:  plant  on  dry  ground.  The 
stalk-weevil :  burn  infested  tops.    For  the   brown  rot 


POTATO— PURSLANE 


219 


stalks  and  vines  should  also  be  burned  as  soon  as 
diseased.  For  bacterial  blight,  rotation.  Special  treat- 
ment for  the  flea-beetle,  besides  Bordeaux  and  Paris 
green :  tobacco  dust 
or  decoction,  kero- 
sene emulsion. 

POTATO,  CAN- 
ADA. See  Jerusa- 
lem Artichoke, 
under  A. 

POTATO,SPAN- 
ISH.  See  Sweet 
Potato,  under  S.         <^ 

PUMPKIN.  See 
Squash. 

PURSLANE 

(Poriulaca  oleracea) 
is  our  common  Pusley,  which  in  itself  is  a  passable 
pot-herb,  but  is  best  grown  in  its  cultivated  forms,  of 
which  Vilmorin  -  Andrieux  names  three ;  they  are, 
however,  seldom  offered  by  American  seedsmen.  The 
common  weed  is  a  trailing  plant;  the  developed 
kinds  grow  upright,  with  larger  leaves  and  fleshy 
stems.      The    plant    is    tender    to    frost,    but   thrives 


Fig.  106.    A  spray  of  French  Purslane. 
One-third  natural  size. 


220  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

in  heat.  The  young  leaves  are  sometimes  used  raw, 
in  salads. 

Soil  should  be  light,  rich,  and  quick. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  apart. 

Depth. — One-fourth  to  one-half  inch. 

Soio  when  frosts  are  past,  about  June  1. 

Thin  to  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  young  stems  in  about  sixty  days ; 
a  plant  will  give  repeated  pickings  if  not  too  severely 
stripped.  It  is  best  not  to  allow  the  plant  to  go  to 
seed,  but  it  is  not  likely,  in  the  cultivated  varieties,  to 
become  a  pest. 

PURSLANE,  WINTER  {ClaytoniaperfoUata).  Win- 
ter Purslane  is  given  by  Vilmorin-Andrieux  as  a  plant 
of  a  different  genus.  Apparently  it  will  stand  some 
frost.    Cultivate  like  common  Purslane. 

QUINOA  is  Annual  Goosefoot.    See  under  G. 

RADISH  {Raphanus  sativus)  is  grown  for  its  roots, 
which  are  eaten  raw.  It  is  hardy  in  frost  and  likes  a 
cool  situation;  its  varieties  —  spring,  summer,  and 
winter — can  be  gro\vn  the  season  through,  although 
quite  different  in  characteristics.  The  spring,  forcing 
or  fall  Radishes  are  of  quick  development  and  as  quick 
decline,  soon  becoming  hot,  stringy,  pithy,  or  hollow. 
They  are  frequently  sown  with  slow-developing  crops. 


RADISH 


221 


being  out  of  the  way,  if  picked  at  their  prime,  before 
the  others  need  the  ground.  The  summer  Radishes  are 
larger,  grow  more  slowly,  and  stay  in  good  condition 
for  a  much  longer  time.  The  winter  Radishes  may  be 
grown  much  as  beets  or  turnips,  and  can  be  stored  over 
winter.  Shapes  of  Radishes  vary  from  spherical  through 
half-long  to  long;  the  color  of  the  spring  Radishes  is 


Fi^.  107.    Seedlings  of  Radish.    Nearly  natural  size. 

chiefly  red  and  white,  but  the  summer  and  fall  Radishes 
are  also  yellow^,  gray  and  black.  For  best  results  the 
seed  of  Radishes  should  best  be  sifted  through  a  mesh 
of  two-twenty-fifths  inch;  smaller  seeds  give  a  variable 
crop.  The  great  pest  of  the  Radish  is  the  root-maggot, 
which  is  so  troublesome  that  in  some  soils  the  plant 
cannot  be  successfully  grown  until  the  pest  has  been 
starved  out.  Coldframe  culture  in  such  soils  is  possible, 
however,  since  the  season  is  too  early  for  the  maggot. 
Soil  for  early  Radishes  should  be  light,   warm,  and 


222 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


quick.  Later  sowings,  after  frosts  are  past,  should  be 
in  cooler  ground.  The  Radish  does  not  like,  however, 
clayey  or  heavy  soils.    The    soil    should    be    in    good 

physical  condition, 
though  for  the  round 
spring  Radishes  only 
about  four  inches  of 
good  soil  is  necessary. 

Distances. — For  the 
spring  Radishes  sow  in 
drills  six  inches  or 
more  apart  and  thin 
to  two  to  three  inches. 
Or  sow  broadcast  in 
small  beds.  For  sum- 
mer and  winter  Rad- 
ishes sow  according  to 
size  of  variety,  gener- 
ally in  drills  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart;  thin  to 
six  inches. 

Depth. — About  one-half  inch.  Deeper  in  summer, 
or  in  dry  soil. 

Sow. — If  sown  under  glass,  Radish  must  have  a  cool 
temperature  with  no  bottom  heat,  or  it  will  run  to 
top.  Early  and  late  coldframe  culture  suits  them; 
if  in  the  house,  day  temperature  may  be  65°  to  75°, 
night  45°  to  50°.  They  may  be  forced  the  winter 
through. 


Fig. 


A  bunch  of  spring  Radishes. 
One-third  natural  size. 


RADISH 


223 


Sow  spring  varieties  outdoors  as  early  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked,  and  for  succession  every  week  or  ten 
days  until  the  middle  of  June.  Sow  again  in  late 
August  for  the  fall  crop.  Summer  sowings  seldom  do 
well,  and  should  be  in  cool  ground  with  partial  shade 
or  a  northerly  exposure. 


Fig.  109.    Radishes,  the  long  type. 

Sow  summer  varieties  from  May  through  July, 
every  two  or  three  weeks  for  succession. 

Sow  winter  radishes  in  May  or  June.  Of  these  there 
is  usually  but  a  single  crop. 

Sow  always  thinly. 

Thin  to  three  to  six  inches,  according  to  variety. 

Transplanting. — Where  the  time  and  labor  can  be 
given,  transplanting  will  give  better  results,  as  the 
weak  plants  are  discarded  and  the  crop  will  be  uniform. 
Transplant  at  the  fourth  leaf. 


224 


THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 


Culture. — Thin  early,  preserve  the  surface  mulch. 
Pick  the  spring  and  summer  Radishes  when   of  the 
proper  size,  according  to  variety.  The  summer  Radishes 
may  stay  in  the  ground  after  reaching  the  right  size,  a 
little  longer  than  the  spring  Radishes. 

T>ig  the  winter  radishes  in  the 
fall,  and  store  in  sand  or  in  pits. 

Use.  —  Before  eating  winter 
Radishes,  soak  an  hour  in  cold 
water. 

Pests. — Chiefly    the    root-mag- 
got, which  may  be  killed  by  inject- 
ing bisulphide  of  carbon  into  the 
soil  near  the  plants — a  process  not 
worth  the  results.    It  will  be  better 
to    dress    heavily    with    unleached 
wood-ashes   after    sowing,  or   still 
more    heavily   with   tobacco   dust. 
Or  sprinkle  once  a  week  with  car- 
bolic acid  emulsion,  one  to  thirty. 
Screen  to  keep  aw^ay  the  flies.     If  these  fail,  try  rota- 
tion.   See  Cabbage-maggot. 
Store  in  sand. 


Fig.  no.  Two  types  of 
early  Radishes.  One- 
half  natural  size. 


RADISH,  EDIBLE-PODDED.  There  are  two  edible- 
podded  Radishes,  of  which  the  Madras  will  not  flourish  in 
our  climate.  The  Rat-tailed  Radish,  Raphanus  cau- 
datus  (so  called  for  its  long,  slender  seed-pods,  for  which 


RADISH— RAPE  225 

it  is  grown),  may  be  grown  in  our  summers,  sowing  in 
June.  Treat  as  a  summer  Radish, drills  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  apart,  thin  to  nine  inches.  Pick  the  seed-pods 
when  young,  as  they  develop,  and  eat  raw  or  else  pickle. 

RAMPION  {Campanula  Rapunculus)  is  a  biennial 
plant  grown  as  an  annual  for  its  leaves  and  roots,  used 
as  a  fall  and  winter  salad.  The  seed  is  the  smallest  of  all 
vegetable  seeds,  and  should  for  sowing  be  mixed  with 
sand  or  earth,  and  merely  pressed  into  the  soil. 
Although  a  biennial,  the  plant  will  sometimes  run  to 
seed  in  a  hot  summer,  and  to  prevent  this  it  should  not 
be  sown  before  June.  The  leaves  may  be  gathered  in 
the  fall,  and  the  roots  should  be  stored  in  sand  for 
use  as  needed.  The  flavor,  either  of  leaves  or  roots,  is 
not  agreeable  to  all.    Scrape  the  roots  before  using. 

Sow  in  June,  to  prevent  running  to  seed. 

Soil  should  be  rich,  light,  and  loose.  Shade  the 
seed-bed  ;  or  water  at  times,  carefully,  so  as  not  to 
wash  out  the  seed. 

Distances. — Drills  nine  inches  or  more  apart,  or 
sow  broadcast. 

Depth. — Merely  press  the  seed  into  the  soil. 

Thin  to  at  least  four  inches  each  way. 

Culture  should  be  frequent. 

RAPE  is  sometimes  grown  as  a  salad  plant,  like 
mustard  or  cress. 


226 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


RHUBARB  or  Pieplant  {Rheum  Rhaponticum)  is 
grown  for  its  leaf-stalks,  used  in  desserts,  pies,  and 
wine.  It  is  a  perennial  plant,  usually  propagated 
by  root-divisions,  as  the  seeds  seldom  give  good  results. 
"  Not  more  than  fifteen  per  cent  can  be  counted  on  to 
be  true  to  the  varietal  type. "  (Cyclopedia  of  American 
Horticulture.)    Rhubarb  should  have  its  place  in  every 


Fig.  ni.    Rhubarb  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

home  garden  ;  six  plants  are  enough  for  the  ordinary 
family,  and  if  the  roots  are  well  fed  and  occasionally 
pruned  or  reset  they  will  yield  for  twenty  years  or 
more.  Rhubarb  will  stand  considerable  neglect,  but 
for  good  results  requires  high  feeding  with  manure  as 
well  as  with  fertilizers.  It  is  usually  mulched  in  the 
fall  with  manure,  in  the  northern  states,  for  an  early 
start,  since  it  is  chiefly  prized  for  its  earliness.  In  the 
spring  the  fine  part  of  the  manure  may  be  forked  into 


RHUBARB  S2T 

the  ground,  the  coarser  left  for  a  summer  mulch,  though 
the  leaves  of  the  spring  crop  may  be  left  on  the  ground 
for  the  same  purpose.  Rhubarb  may  be  forced  while  in 
the  ground,  for  an  extra-early  crop;  or  the  roots  may 
be  lifted  and  forced  in  the  house,  after  which  they  are 
of  very  little  use  and  should  be  thrown  away.  Unless 
the  seed  is  needed  the  flower-stalk  should  be  cut  off, 
since  to  develop  seed  weakens  the  roots.  Varieties  are 
very  few,  and  good  results  depend  upon  feeding  the 
plants  rather  than  on  variety.  A  winter  Rhubarb  has 
lately  been  advertised,  of  special  use  for  forcing  under 
glass.  The  plant  has  no  troublesome  enemies  or  dis- 
eases. 

Soil  should  be  rich  and  deep,  and  for  an  early  start 
it  should  be  warm  and  quick.  Prepare  the  bed,  or  the 
hill  for  each  plant,  to  a  depth  of  two  feet  if  possible, 
working  in  much  compost  or  well-rotted  manure.  If 
the  plants  are  to  be  raised  from  seed  no  such  prepara- 
tion is  necessary.    See  under  Rhubarb  from  seed,  below. 

Distances. — Set  roots  four  to  five  by  three  to  four 
feet.    Four  by  four  feet  is  the  usual  garden  distance. 

Roots  should  have  one  to  three  good  eyes. 

Depth. — Set  roots  with  the  eyes  one  to  three  inches 
under  ground. 

Pla?it  roots  in  fall  or  spring.  In  colder  places  spring 
planting  is  usual. 

Culture  consists  merely  in  keeping  down  weeds  and 
preserving  the  mulch  until  the  leaves  cover  the  ground. 


228         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

Fertilizer. — Dig  manure  around  the  plants  in  spring, 
and  dress  with  a  good  general  fertilizer  in  midsummer. 
Besides  this,  dress  monthly  with  nitrate  of  soda  or 
liquid  manure. 

Pick  lightly  from  roots  in  the  second  year.  "Pull- 
ing" the  stalks  is  a  special  knack,  and  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  tear  the  crown.  Pull  downward  and  out- 
ward with  a  quick  pull  or  jerk.  After  the  second  year 
the  stalks  may  be  pulled,  moderately,  all  through  the 
summer,  or  cropped  more  heavily  until  about  the  mid- 
dle of  June.  Do  not  exhaust  the  plants.  For  summer 
use  choose  the  smaller  stalks. 

Cut  off  e\\  seed-stalks. 

Protect  in  fall  by  a  mulch,  three  to  four  inches 
thick,  of  coarse  or  fine  manure,  compost,  or  earth. 
Level  this  in  spring  and  work  the  fine  manure  into  the 
ground.  The  plant  will  live  through  the  winter  with- 
out the  mulch,  or  with  only  the  protection  of  its  own 
leaves,  but  the  mulch  prevents  deep  freezing  and  so 
allows  an  earlier  start. 

Rhubarb  from  seed  is  scarcely  profitable.  Plant  the 
seed  in  drills  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  at  a  depth 
of  about  one  inch.  Thin  to  six  inches  or  more  and  give 
good  culture.  In  the  fall  or  spring  take  up  the  promis- 
ing plants  and  set  in  their  permanent  positions. 

Forcing. — Rhubarb  may  be  forced  in  the  field  by 
placing  over  each  plant  a  barrel,  half-barrel,  tub,  or 
box,  having  no  top  or  bottom,  and    piling  around  it 


RHUBARB 


229 


heating  manure;  the  plants  may  be  picked  until  the 
unforced  plants  begin  to  yield,  and  no  ill  results  will 
follow. 

Or  Rhubarb  may  be  forced  by  taking  up  the  roots 
and  allowing  them  to  freeze  thoroughly.  Preferably, 
keep  frozen  for  a  month  or  more,  though  with  thawing 
and  freezing  good  results  have  been  obtained.  They 
should  then  be  placed  in  a  dark  and  cool  cellar  (tem- 
perature at  55°  to  60°),  and  packed  closely  in  good  rich 
earth.  Cover  three  to  four  inches,  keep  moist;  water 
but  slightly  until  the  shoots 
appear,  when  give  more 
water.  Forced  in  the  dark 
and  in  not  too  hot  a  place, 
the  best  results  are  gained. 

Ether  forcing  is  the 
same  as  the  above,  but  the 
plants  are  first  treated  with 
the  fumes  of  ether  in  a 
close  box,  ten  cubic  centi- 
meters of  liquid  ether  being  "  -  -  ^r  : 

J       .  1  •        P      ,       ^     ^^S-  11^-  stalks  of  forced  Rhubarb, 

used      to     a     cubic     loot     of  (The  leaves  do  not  develop.) 

space.  Expose  forty-eight  hours,  and  then  pack  in 
earth.    Much  greater  results  are  thus  obtained. 

Plants  not  too  much  forced  by  the  ordinary  method 
may  be  put  back  in  the  field  and  used  again  after  two 
or  more  years.  Ether  forcing  exhausts  them  entirely. 
Three  or  four  pickings  are  usual  from  forced  roots. 


230         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Reneioing. — Plants  in  the  field  should  be  taken  up 
every  three  or  four  years,  separated,  and  parts  reset  in 
the  same  ground.  Or  with  less  trouble  the  outer  parts 
of  the  roots  may  be  cut  oft*  with  a  spade,  without  dis- 
turbing the  part  to  be  left  in  the  ground.  If  this  is 
done  in  the  fall  the  parts  taken  away  may  be  forced; 
or  in  either  fall  or  spring  they  may  be  reset. 

Pests. — Against  the  Rhubarb-beetle  cut  the  leaves 
regularly,  making  sure  that  all  the  early  leaves  are  re- 
moved by  midsummer,  thus  destroying  eggs  and  larvae. 
Burn  the  leaves.    Destroy  all  neighboring  dock  plants. 

ROCAMBOLE  {Allium  Scorodoprasum)  is  a  hardy 
perennial  plant  of  the  Onion  family,  grown  as  an 
annual  for  its  compound  bulbs,  which  are  used  as 
garlic.  The  plant  seldom  produces  seed,  and  may  be 
propagated  by  its  "tops"  or  bulblets,  produced  at  the 
end  of  the  twisted  stem,  but  it  is  grown  more  usually 
and  profitably  by  planting  the  cloves  or  parts  of  the 
bulbs.    The  flavor  is  milder  than  garlic. 

Soil. — Light,  rich,  quick. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  or  more  apart,  bulblets  or 
cloves  three  inches  or  more  in  the  row. 

Depth. — Barely  cover. 

Sow  in  early  spring,  or  in  mild  climates  set  the 
bulbs  in  the  fall.  ^, 

Lift  the  bulbs  when  the  tops  die,  and  store  like 
onions  or  garlic. 


ROQUETTE  231 

ROCKET,  ROCKET-SALAD,  or 

ROQUETTE  {Eruca  sativa)  is  a  salad-plant,  well 
known  in  France  and  England,  but  little  cultivated 
here.  It  is  occasionally  used  as  a  pot-herb,  but  in  any 
case  only  the  young  leaves  should  be  used;  they  have 
a  flavor  of  horse-radish.  For  best  results  they  should 
have  plenty  of  water.  The  plant  bolts  in  heat  and  is 
best  grown  only  in  spring  and  fall. 

Soil. — Rich  and  moist. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  apart.  Thin  to  three  to 
four  inches  in  the  row. 

Depth. — One-half  inch. 

Sow  thinly  in  May,  and  every  two  or  three  weeks 
until  June.    Sow  again  in  August  for  a  fall  crop. 

Culture. — Water  if  necessary;  preserve  the  surface 
mulch.    The  plants  should  be  kept  growing. 

FeHilizer. — Nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure,  weekly. 

Pick  only  the  young  leaves. 

ROCKET,  TURKISH  (Bunias  orientalis)  is  a  hardy 
perennial  plant  grown  for  its  young  leaves  and  tips, 
used  as  salad  or  as  a  pot-herb. 

Soil. — Light  and  quick. 

Distances. — Rows  two  feet  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sow  in  fall  in  mild  climates,  thickly;  otherwise  in 
spring,  thinly  in  the  rows. 


'2S9,         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

Thin  to  one  foot  in  the  rows. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  once  the  plant  is 
established. 

Mulch  over  winter  north  of  New  York  city. 

ROSEMARY,  or  Old  Man  (Rosmarinus  officinalis), 
is  a  half-hardy  evergreen  under-shrub,  grown  for  its 
leaves,  used  in  seasoning  and  in  household  medicine. 
It  is  propagated  by  seed,  by  cuttings,  by  root-divis- 
ions, and  by  layering  its  branches.  The  plant  requires 
a  light  protection  in  cold  places,  and  should  besides 
have  a  sheltered  position.  Varieties  are:  Common  or 
Green  -  Leaved,  the  hardiest;  Silver- Striped ;  Gold- 
Striped. 

Soil  should  be  light  and  warm. 

Distances. — Two  feet  apart  each  way. 

Depth  of  seed,  about  one  inch;  of  root-divisions  and 
rooted  cuttings  or  layers,  as  before. 

Sozv  seed  in  spring,  in  seed-bed,  in  drills  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  thin  to  six  inches  apart  in  the 
drills.  Set  the  plants  in  their  permanent  positions  in 
fall,  or  in  cold  climates  best  in  spring. 

Take  cuttings  in  spring  or  summer,  and  water  till 
established. 

Layer  the  ends  of  the  lower  branches  until  rooted, 
when  cut  off,  take  up,  and  reset,  preferably  in  spring. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  for  use,  or  dry  and 
store. 


ROSEMARY— RUE  233 

Protect  in  winter  with  a  light  mulch,  or  tie  in  straw 
if  possible. 

Prune  moderately  in  winter  or  early  spring. 

RUE,  or  Herb-of-Grace  {Ruta  graveolens\  is  a 
small  hardy  perennial  evergreen  shrub,  grown  for  its 
leaves,  which  are  used  in  seasoning,  though  their  taste 
is  to  some  even  offensive,  besides  being  bitter.  They 
are  raised  from  seed,  root-divisions,  or  cuttings.  The 
plant  requires  little  protection  beyond  a  sheltered 
position,  except  in  the  colder  parts  of  the  country, 
where  it  should  be  mulched  with  leaves  or  litter. 

Soil  preferably  light,  well  drained  and  limed. 

Distances. — Nine  by  eighteen  inches. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Soiv  in  spring  when  heavy  frosts  are  past,  in  seed- 
bed, rows  apart  as  convenient. 

Thin  when  well  up  to  three  inches. 

Transplant  to  permanent  positions  at  about  six 
inches. 

Take  cuttings  in  early  summer,  and  set  in  seed-bed, 
six  inches  or  more  each  way,  watering  till  established. 
Transplant  the  following  spring,  or  in  mild  climates  in 
the  fall. 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring.    Depth  as  before. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted.     (3r  dry  and  store. 

RUSH-NUT.    See  Chufa. 


234         THE   BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

RUTABAGA,  or  Swedish  Turnip  {Brasska  cam- 
pestris),  is  a  plant  grown  for  its  roots,  used  chiefly  for 
stock -feeding,  but  also  for  table  use.  It  has  a  richer 
flesh  than  the  Turnip,  and  requires  a  longer  season. 
Being  hardy  to  frost,  it  may  be  left 
in  the  ground  late  before  digging;  it 
will  live  over  winter,  but  should  not 
be  left  unless  wanted  for  seed.  Ruta- 
baga is  usually  sown  in  June  for  a 
fall  crop.  There  are  several  varieties, 
and  for  table  use  the  finest-fleshed 
should  be  chosen. 

(Rutabaga  is  called  by  the  Eng- 
lish Turnip-rooted  Cabbage,  a  name 
which  we  reserve  for  Kohlrabi.) 

Soil' — A    rich   medium   loam    in 
good  tilth,  not  recently  manured. 
Distances. — Drills  twelve  to  eigh- 
Fig.  113.   Rutabaga,     ^^eu  inches  apart. 
Depth. — One  inch  or  more. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is    fit,    and   monthly    until 
June  or  early  July. 

Thin  to  six  to  nine  inches  in  the  rows. 
Culture. — Maintain  the  surface  mulch. 
FeHilizer  is  not  necessary  if  the  ground  is  previously 
well  enriched,  unless  nitrate  of  soda  is  used.    See  under 
Turnip. 

Dig  after  frosts  have  come. 


SAFFRON  — SAGE  235 

Store  in  a  cellar,  in  sand,  or  in  a  barrel. 
Diseases  and  pests.    See  Turnip. 

SAFFRON  {Crocus  satwus)  is  a  bulbous  plant  grown 
for  the  pistils  of  its  flowers,  which  are  used  in  flavoring, 
and  for  coloring  cookery.  As  the  w  ork  of  gathering  the 
pistils  is  minute  and  laborious,  the  plant  is  seldom 
grown  in  gardens. 

Set  out  bulbs  or  corms  in  early  June,  and  cultivate 
the  ground  until  the  flowers  have  been  picked  and  the 
foliage  has  died.  Take  up  tlie  bulbs,  separate  them 
from  their  small  offsets,  and  reset  in  about  a  month, 
for  them  to  root  for  the  winter.  Soil  should  be  light 
and  loose,  well  limed,  and  sunny.  ^lulch  lightly  over 
winter. 

SAGE  (Salvia  officinalis)  is  a  half-hardy  perennial, 
shrubby  plant  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  chiefly  in 
seasoning,  but  still  to  some  extent  also  used  in  domestic 
medicine.  Thev  are  best  w  hen  fresh.  The  plant  is  prop- 
agated by  cuttings,  root-divisions,  from  seed,  and  by 
layering.  Sage  is  extensively  grown  commercially, 
either  in  permanent  plantations  or  in  rotation  with 
other  crops.  In  ordinary  garden  practice  it  is  kept  in 
clumps,  which  should  be  divided  and  reset,  or  at  least 
root-pruned,  every  year  or  two.  There  are  several 
varieties,  but  the  broad-leaved  green  kinds  are  the  best 
for  general  culture,  although  some  of  them  produce  no 


236         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

seed.  The  narrow-leaved  and  red  varieties  do  not  always 
come  true  from  seed  and  are  more  delicate. 

Soil  a  medium  loam,  well  drained,  and  with  manure 
worked  in. 

Didances. — In  seed-bed,  for  seeds  and  cuttings,  rows 
apart  as  convenient.  Thin  seedlings  to  three  to  six 
inches.  In  permanent  positions,  twelve  by  twelve  inches 
or  twelve  by  eighteen  inches. 

Depth  for  seed,  one  inch.  For  root-divisions,  rooted 
cuttings,  and  layers,  as  they  stood  before. 

Take  cuttings  in  spring,  and  set  in  moist,  shady 
seed-bed.  From  mature  wood  the  cuttings  will  be  ready 
to  transplant  in  six  weeks.  P'rom  immature,  the  cut- 
tings should  remain  till  next  spring,  but  will  give  best 
results. 

Take  layers  in  spring,  having  rooted  them  the  pre- 
vious summer. 

Take  up  roots  in  spring. 

Sow  in  protected  seed-bed  in  early  spring,  or  under 
glass  in  March;  thin  to  six  by  six  inches  as  the  plants 
grow,  and  set  out  when  frosts  are  past.  Sow  in  open 
ground  in  May. 

Cut  when  the  plants  are  well  established,  but  do  not 
cut  too  heavily  the  first  year;  once  is  enough.  With 
old  plants  three  cuttings  are  possible  in  a  year,  taking 
the  first  and  best  before  the  fiower-stems  appear;  cut 
off  the  whole  top.  With  plants  grown  as  annuals  only 
one  cutting  is  usual. 


SAGE— SALSIFY 


23' 


Protect  in  winter  with  a  mulch. 

Reset  permanent  beds  every  year  or  two  years,  by 
taking  up  and  dividing.  Or  prune  the  roots  every  year, 
by  cutting  off  the  outer  clumps,  which  may  be  reset. 

As  an  annual.  Sage  may  be  sown  in  spring  (under 
glass,  in  seed-bed,  or  in  the  open  ground,  as  above)  and 
picked  in  the  fall. 

Dry  the  leaves,  and  rub  to  powder.    Store  for  use. 


Fig.  U4.    Salsify  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size 

SALSIFY,  Salsafy,  Oyster  Plant,  or  Vegetable 
Oyster  (so  called  for  its  taste  of  oysters)  is  Tragopogon 
po7Tifolius,  a  biennial  plant  grown  as  an  annual  for 
its  roots.  The  young  leaves  are  sometimes  used  as 
salad.  It  is  hardy  to  frost,  and  may  be  sown  early ;  a 
long-season  plant,  it  requires  the  ground  for  the  whole 


238 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


season.  Its  seeds,  which  are  really  fruits,  are  long  and 
thin,  difficult  to  sow  in  the  seed-drill.  The  roots,  like 
those  of  parsnip,  can  be  left 
in  the  ground  all  winter  with- 
out detriment.  Varieties  are  few, 
and  are  distinguished  chiefly 
by  size,  the  largest  of  them  be- 
ing small  compared  with  other 
root-crops.  See  also  Scolymus 
and  Scorzonera,  which  may  be 
used  as  substitutes. 

Soil. — Should  be  deep,  cool, 
rich,  and  not  recently  manured. 
It  should  be  freshly  and  deeply 
dug. 

Distances.  —  Rows  t  w  e  1  \'  e 
inches  or  more  apart,  preferably 
eighteen  inches. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 
Sow   in   early  spring,  or   in 
May  at  the  latest. 
Tliin   to    five   or    six    inches.     Thinnings    may  be 
transplanted,    but    the    tap-root    should    not    be    in- 
jured. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch,  until  the  tops 
cover  the  ground. 

Fertilizer. — Dig  in,  before  sowing,  a  good  general 
fertilizer,  rich  in  potash. 


Fig.  115.    Salsify  roots.    One 
sixth  natural  size. 


SALSIFY— SAMPHIRE  239 

Dig  when  of  large  enough  size,  as  wanted.  Or 
leave  over  winter  and  dig  in  spring. 

Store  roots  taken  for  winter  use,  in  sand  or  away 
from  air. 

Diseases  and  pests  are  few  and  not  troublesome. 

SALSIFY,  BLACK.    See  Scorzonera. 
SALSIFY,  SPANISH.    See  Scolymus. 

SAMPHIRE  (Crithmum  maritimum)  sometimes  called 
Sea-fennel,  St.  Peter's  herb,  and  Parsley  Pert,  is  a 
hardy  perennial,  grown  (with  some  difficulty  except  at 
the  seashore)  for  its  leaves  and  young  shoots,  used  in 
seasoning,  salads,  and  pickles.  It  is  propagated  by  root- 
division,  or  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Golden 
Samphire  {Inula  critlimifolia)  is  not  so  pleasant  to  the 
taste  as  true  Samphire,  but  is  cultivated  in  the  same 
way. 

Soil  should  be  light  and  sandy,  with  a  warm  aspect. 
In  France  and  England  the  plant  is  if  possible  grown 
at  the  foot  of  a  sheltering  wall. 

Distances. — One  by  two  feet  to  eighteen  by  thirty 
inches. 

Depth. — Cover  seed  lightly.  Roots  the  same  as 
before. 

Sow  seed  as  soon  as  ripe  (in  August  and  Septem- 
ber), as  it  rapidly  loses  the  power  to  germinate.     Sow 


240         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

in  seed-bed,  rows  one  foot  apart,  thin  the  seedlings  to 
six  inches  apart,  and  mulch  over  winter. 

Set  out  young  plants,  or  root  divisions,  in  spring, 
after  frosts  are  past. 

Culture. — Keep  free  of  weeds  till  the  plant  covers 
the  ground. 

Fertilizer.  —  Except  at  the  seashore,  where  the 
plant  will  usually  thrive,  water  occasionally  with  sea- 
water  or  a  solution  of  sea-salts ;  or  with  weak  solutions 
of  salt  and  soda ;  or  sprinkle  the  ground  in  spring  with 
powdered  barilla. 

Pick  the  young  leaves  and  tips  as  wanted,  in  August 
and  September.    They  may  be  pickled. 

Protect  over  winter  with  a  mulch. 

SAVORY,  SUMMER.  Summer  Savory  (Satureia 
hortensis)  is  an  annual  plant  grown  for  its  leaves  and 
tender  shoots,  used  in  seasoning. 

Soil  light,  warm,  and  fairly  rich. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Depth. — One  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April,  or  outdoors 
when  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  or  set  out  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
Thinnings  may  be  transplanted. 

Pich  as  wanted,  or 

Pull  the  whole  plant  when  in  early  flower,  dry,  and 
store. 


SAVORY— SCALLION  241 

SAVORY,  WINTER.  Winter  Savory  (Satureia 
montand)  is  a  hardy  perennial,  whose  leaves  and  tips 
are  used  as  above,  for  seasoning.  It  is  propagated  by 
root-divisions  and  by  cuttings  as  well  as  by  seed. 

Soil  should  be  well  drained  and  warm. 

Rows  one  foot  apart. 

Depth. — About  one  inch  for  seed.    Roots  as  before. 

Sow  under  glass  in  March  or  April,  or  in  the  open 
when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  or  set  out  to  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows. 

Take  root-divisions  in  spring.    Depth  as  before. 

Take  cuttings  in  spring,  and  water  till  established, 
in  a  shady  seed-bed.  Set  out  in  summer  or  in  the  next 
spring. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  tips  as  wanted.  Cut  to  the 
ground  in  fall. 

Protection. — Mulch  lightly,  north  of  New  York  city. 

Reset  or  renew  every  three  years. 

SCALLION  (often  Scullion,  but  improperly)  is  an 
onion  when  pulled  young,  before  the  bulb  has  formed. 
Its  white  part  may  be  eaten  raw  or  chopped  in  salads, 
and  is  popular  abroad.  Or  the  term  is  applied  to 
onions  which  do  not  "bottom"  or  bulb  well,  so 
that  the  neck  remains  thick.  Leeks  are  sometimes 
called  Scallions,  as  are  Shallots,  especially  a  variety 
rnajus. 


242 


THE   BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


SCOLYMUS  {Scolymus  Hispanicus),  called  Golden 
Thistle  or  Spanish  Oyster  Plant,  is  grown  and  used  like 
Salsify,  though  of  milder    flavor.    Its  disadvantage  is 

that  the  leaves  are  prickly; 
as  an  offset  the  roots  are 
much  larger,  the  seeds  easier 
to  sow,  and  from  the  same 
space  a  much  larger  crop  can 
be  raised  than  of  Salsify.  Its 
roots  may  be  left  in  the 
ground  over  winter.  The 
leaves  of  the  plants  are  some- 
times blanched  and  eaten. 

Soil  should  be  cool,  rich, 
deep,  in  fine  tilth,  and  not 
recently  manured. 

Distances.  —  Rows  eigh- 
teen inches  apart  or  more. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one 
inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is 
fit.    Only  one  crop  is  usual, 
as  the  plant  requires  the  full 
season. 
Thin  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch,  and  weed. 
Dig  in  fall  or  spring. 
Blanch  the  tops  like  Cardoon,  which  see. 


Fig.  116.    Root  of  Scolymus. 


SCORZONERA  243 

SCORZONERA,  Black  Salsify,  or  Viper^s  Grass 
{Scorzonei'a  Hispanica)^  is  a  perennial  plant  usually 
grown  as  an  annual  or  biennial,  though  the  roots  con- 
tinue to  enlarge  if  left  still  longer  in  the  ground.  It  is 
much  like  salsify,  but  with  roots  black  on  the  outside, 
while  white  inside.  It  is  more  difficult  to  raise  than 
salsify,  but  some  prefer  its  flavor.  The  leaves  are  some- 
times used  as  salads. 

Soil  cool,  rich,  deep,  not  recently  manured,  and  in 
good  tilth. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Depth, — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  to  six  inches  in  the  rows. 

Dig  in  fall  or  spring,  or  leave  still  longer,  as  the 
roots  continue  to  grow. 

Store  for  winter  use  in  sand  away  from  frost. 

SCORZONERA,  FRENCH  {S.  picroides,  otherwise 
classified  as  Plcridium  vulgare\  is  an  annual  salad  plant, 
grown  for  its  leaves,  of  which  several  cuttings  may  be 
had  in  the  course  of  the  season.  The  leaves  have  a 
muttony  flavor. 

Soil  moist  and  shady. 

Distaiwes. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  when  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  to  six  inches. 


244  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Culture. — Preserve  the  mulch  and  keep  down  weeds. 
Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted,  when  the  plant  is  grow- 
ing well;  or  pull  whole  plant. 

SCURVY  GRASS  {Cochlearia  officinalis)  is  a  peren- 
nial plant  grown  as  an  annual,  for  its  leaves,  which  are 
used  like  those  of  water-cress,  which  the  plant  resembles, 
though  the  taste  is  bitter  and  tarry.  It  is  anti-scor- 
butic. 

Soil  cool  and  moist,  if  possible  with  partial  shade. 

Rows  one  foot  apart  or  more. 

Depth. — About  one  inch. 

Sozv  when  heavy  frosts  are  past. 

Thiji  to  four  to  six  inches  in  the  rows. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  once  the  plant  is 
growing  well. 

SEA-KALE  {Cramhe  marifuna)  is  a  perennial  plant, 
which,  like  asparagus,  thrives  naturally  near  the  sea- 
shore, but  which  (also  like  asparagus),  can  be  success- 
fully grown  inland  under  widely  varying  conditions. 
It  is  chiefly  an  English  delicacy,  grown  for  its  first 
shoots  in  spring,  which  are  blanched,  and  are  served 
like  asparagus.  The  English  prize  it  highly,  as  it 
comes  into  use  in  the  spring  when  green  vegetables  are 
scarce.  Besides  this,  however,  it  may  be  forced,  the 
roots  being  taken  into  the  house  and  easily  brought 
into  bearing,  much  as    rhubarb  is.    Roots    thus  used 


SEA-KALE  245 

have  lost  most  of  their  vitahty,  and  are  scarcely  worth 
nursing  back  to  vigor.  Sea-kale  is  such  a  strong 
grower  that  it  seems  to  ,pay  cultivation  for  forcing 
better  than  other  vegetables,  and  most  English  private 
gardens  have  their  plantations  of  it.  American  and 
even  French  use  of  it  is  very  limited,  but  the  plant 
is  perfectly  hardy  in  New  England,  and  could  be  used 
in  spring  as  a  supplement  to  asparagus. 

Sea-kale  is  propagated  from  seed  and  from  root  cut- 
tings ;  rarely  from  root-divisions.  The  root  grows  much 
like  a  branched  parsnip,  say,  with  several  buds  at  the 
crown  and  with  a  short  thick  root  which  divides  at  a 
depth  of  about  six  inches  into  many  side  roots,  often 
called  thongs.  When  the  main  root  is  taken  up  for  forc- 
ing, these  thongs  are  also  carefully  taken  up,  lest  by 
remaining  in  the  ground  they  sprout  and  become 
troublesome.  When  taken  they  are  cut  into  lengths 
for  future  planting.  These  thongs  or  sets  should  be 
stored  over  the  winter  in  earth  or  sand,  or  may  be  left 
in  a  trench  out-of-doors;  in  the  spring  if  they  have 
formed  buds  these  should  all  be  rubbed  off  but  one, 
and  then  set  out;  they  will  make  good  plants  for  forc- 
ing or  field-cutting  in  two  years.  From  seed  it  is  also 
possible  to  get  a  good  bearing  crop  at  the  beginning  of 
the  third  year,  although  some  gardeners  prefer  thongs 
for  raising  permanent  plants,  even  though  the  thongs 
be  cut  from  seedlings. 

Sea-kale,  like  asparagus  and  rhubarb,  is  grown  in  a 


M6         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

permanent  plantation,  the  plants  often  living  to  ten  or 
twelve  years  with  good  management,  although  if  heavily 
cropped  they  should  be  replaced  at  the  end  of  seven  or 
eight  years.  Replacing  a  plantation  from  cuttings  is  an 
easy  matter,  however,  and  when  properly  managed  a 
garden  can  always  have  strong  plants.  Sea-kale  likes 
good  cultivation,  and  requires  some  care  in  cutting  out 
weak  or  superfluous  leaf-buds,  while  unless  seed  is 
wanted  all  flower-stalks  should  be  cut  off.  In  cutting 
the  blanched  stalks  an  inch  or  so  of  the  root  should 
also  be  taken,  or  the  plants  will  stand  up  out  of  the 
ground  more  and  more  each  year.  It  is  quite  safe  to 
cut  at  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Sea-kale  is  always  blanched  for  the  table,  either 
under  glass  by  artificial  methods  as  described  below,  or 
by  earthing-up  or  covering  over  in  the  open  field  before 
the  plants  start  in  spring.  If  blanched  under  glass,  heat 
is  generally  used;  in  the  field  heat  may  be  used  for  an 
early  supply,  and  other  plants  may  be  left  to  come  on 
naturally  later.  By  one  method  and  another  the  Eng- 
lish manage  to  stretch  their  Sea-kale  season  from  about 
Christmas  until  late  in  spring. 

Varieties  are  few,  Vilmorin-Andrieux  naming  but 
four.  American  seedsmen  seldom  offer  more  than  one, 
which  may  be  supposed  to  be  the  Common  Sea-kale. 
Of  this  the  leaves  tinge  purple  when  exposed  to  light 
after  blanching  and  before  cutting.  The  Lily-white  has 
not  that  habit. 


SEA-KALE  247 

Soil. — Sea-kale  will  grow  in  many  soils,  but  the 
best  is  rich,  cool,  moist,  deep,  and  in  good  tilth.  If 
heavily  manured,  so  much  the  better.  Fertilizers  with 
a  good  proportion  of  nitrogen  may  be  worked  in. 

Distances  are  according  to  the  purpose.  A  good 
scheme  is:  set  the  seedlings  or  sets  twelve  by  eighteen 
inches.  At  the  end  of  the  second  year  every  other 
plant  and  the  alternate  rows  may  be  taken  up  for  forc- 
ing, leaving  the  rest  as  a  permanent  plantation  at  three 
by  two  feet.  In  very  good  ground  this  distance  may 
be  increased  to  four  feet  apart  each  way.  In  the  seed- 
bed sow  in  rows  a  foot  apart  and  thin  to  six  inches  in 
the  rows ;  or  sow  in  rows  closer  together  and  when 
the  plants  are  two  to  three  inches  high,  transplant  to 
twelve  by  six  inches,  to  grow  for  the  first  year.  Twelve 
by  twelve  is  better,  if  the  space  can  be  spared. 

Depth. — Of  seed,  one  and  one-half  to  two  inches. 
Of  seedlings,  as  they  were  before.  Of  thongs,  cover 
about  an  inch,  setting  them  upright. 

Soza. — The  seed  as  bought  is  in  a  pod  or  capsule, 
which  it  is  the  practice  to  sow  without  shelling,  but  if 
shelled  they  sprout  more  quickly.  Although  Vilmorin- 
Andrieux  says  that  but  one  plant  will  come  to  each  pod, 
frequently  two  or  three  will  be  produced.  Sow  seed 
under  glass  in  March,  in  the  coldframe  as  early  as 
possible,  in  the  open  when  the  ground  is  fit.  Seed  may 
be  sown  in  the  hills,  four  to  five  to  a  hill,  at  the  per- 
manent distances. 


248         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

Thongs  may  be  started  under  glass  in  March  or 
April,  and  set  out  when  well  hardened,  about  May  1, 
or  when  heavy  frosts  are  past.  Set  thongs  ordinarily 
(not  started),  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  seedlings  as  under  Distances.  Thin  hills  to  one 
plant. 

Set  out  seedlings  or  thongs  as  above,  either  at  half 
distances,  the  intermediate  plants  to  be  taken  up  for 
forcing,  or  at  the  full  spaces. 

Culture  for  the  first  year  should  be  clean,  no  especial 
care  being  needed.  Mulch  over  winter,  and  in  the 
second  spring  transplant. 

Culture  for  the  permanent  plantation  consists  chiefly 
in  cutting  out  all  superfluous  leaf-buds  and  all  flower- 
stalks.  Cut  in  the  early  spring  to  three  or  four  strong 
buds,  and  occasionally  during  the  year  make  sure  that 
no  more  have  formed.  A  cluster  of  leaves  comes  from 
each  bud.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  good  condi- 
tion, or  mulch  with  manure,  until  the  leaves  cover  the 
ground. 

Fertilize. — In  the  spring  work  into  the  ground  well- 
rotted  manure.  Occasionally  during  the  year  dress 
lightly  with  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure,  though 
in  case  of  a  manure  mulch  these  will  not  be  so  neces- 
sary. In  August  dress  with  a  good  general  fertilizer. 
It  is  an  old  habit  to  sow  salt  on  the  soil  once  a  year, 
but  as  in  the  case  of  asparagus  the  advantage  is  doubt- 
ful.   Kainit  is  preferable. 


SEA-KALE  249 

Blanching  is  necessary  to  make  the  young  shoots 
tender  and  to  remove  the  natural  bitterness  of  the 
plant.  It  should  not  be  attempted  until  the  plant, 
from  transplanted  seedling  or  from  thong,  has  been 
growing  undisturbed  for  two  years.  The  shoots  have 
thick  meaty  midribs  with  the  slightest  amount  of  leaf, 
and  are  best  at  from  six  to  ten  inches,  the  shorter  being 
the  better  and  more  tender. 

The  shoots  are  blanched  by  keeping  them  from  the 
light.  For  outdoor  blanching,  cover  the  plants  in  the 
fall,  or  in  the  spring  before  they  start,  with  light  earth, 
sand,  or  litter,  to  the  depth  of  six  to  ten  inches.  Or 
inverted  pots  may  be  used,  the  bottoms  stopped;  or 
boxes  may  be  placed  over  the  plants.  As  the  shoots 
come  to  the  proper  length,  they  may  be  cut.  If  earthed, 
cut  as  soon  as  the  tips  show. 

Forcing  in  the  field  is  done  by  heaping  heating 
manure  around  the  plants,  but  not  so  as  to  be  in  con- 
tact with  the  shoots.  Pots  or  boxes  are  best  used  to 
cover  the  plants.  By  forcing  a  few  plants  in  this  way, 
several  pickings  may  be  had  before  the  field-plants  come 
naturally  into  bearing. 

Forcing  the  roots  after  lifting  is  a  common  practice, 
and  is  resorted  to  both  for  the  blanched  tips  and  for 
the  thongs  to  make  new  plants.  Take  up  the  plants  in 
the  fall,  when  the  foliage  is  dead,  and  after  breaking  off 
all  side-roots  trim  the  main  ones  to  six  to  nine  inches 
in    length,  and  take  out  all    but    one  dormant    bud. 


250         THE   BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

Uniform  lengths  are  best  for  convenience  in  forcing. 
Store  the  roots  in  sand  or  earth  where  they  will  not  be 
frozen  in,  or  in  sand  in  a  cold  cellar,  until  wanted.  (As 
for  other  plants,  a  period  of  rest  before  forcing  is 
advisable.)  The  side  shoots  are  used  for  sets,  as  below. 

Methods  of  forcing  are  innumerable;  it  is  done 
either  outdoors  in  trenches  or  in  frames,  in  the  ordinary 
house-cellar  or  in  the  greenhouse.  In  any  case  the 
roots  are  packed  closely  together  in  earth,  the  crowns 
just  showing,  and  are  then  covered  six  to  nine  inches 
with  any  loose  material;  or  are  covered  with  pots  or 
boxes  of  sufficient  depth.  If  the  roots  stand  over  ma- 
nure, a  few  inches  of  earth  should  be  between.  Heat 
should  be  applied  gently  and  slowly,  and  should  seldom 
be  above  65  degrees;  55  to  60  degrees  is  generally  con- 
sidered enough.  When  the  shoots  push  through  their 
covering,  they  may  be  cut,  taking  part  of  the  crown 
with  them,  for  convenience  in  handling.  The  roots, 
once  forced,  are  best  thrown  away.  Forced  shoots  sel- 
dom come  to  the  same  length  at  the  same  time,  and 
the  bed  must  be  repeatedly  gone  over  until  all  are  cut. 
Ether  forcing  might  be  as  successful  as  with  rhubarb, 
which  see. 

Cut  all  shoots  with  a  part  of  the  crown.  As  said 
above,  in  the  plantation  it  is  safe  to  cut  to  the  ground. 

Mulch  in  the  fall  with  several  inches  of  rough 
manure.  In  the  spring  rake  off  the  straw  and  work  the 
rest  into  the  ground.    Sea-kale  being  hardy,  the  mulch 


SEA-KALE— SHALLOT  251 

is  not  needed  so  much  for  protection  as  to  prevent  deep 
freezing  and  aid  an  early  start  in  spring. 

Renew  the  plantation  when  the  plants  grow  less 
vigorous.  The  new  plants,  from  seedlings  or  sets,  may 
be  set  between  the  old  ones  for  two  years,  and  then 
the  old  ones  taken  out;  this  is  only  possible  if  the 
plants  have  been  set  at  generous  distances,  four  feet  or 
more  each  way. 

Sets  or  thongs  when  taken  should  be  trimmed  to 
about  nine  inches,  though  less  will  do.  Trim  the  top 
square,  the  bottom  slanting;  tie  in  bundles,  and  store 
in  sand  in  the  cellar,  or  out-of-doors  in  a  trench.  In 
the  spring  take  up  and  set;  if  they  have  formed  crown 
buds,  rub  off  all  but  the  strongest  from  each  set. 
Plant  with  a  dibber,  covering  one  inch  deep.  Sets  are 
occasionally  lifted  in  the  spring.  They  will  vary  in 
size  from  that  of  a  quill  to  that  of  the  little  finger, 
and  may  be  cut  as  short  as  four  inches  if  the  roots  are 
few. 

SEA-PURSLANE.    See  Orach. 

SHALLOT  {Allium  Ascalonkum)  is  a  plant  of  the 
onion  family  producing  a  small  gray  or  russet  bulb, 
compound,  its  parts  pointed.  It  is  grown  for  these 
bulbs,  used  in  seasoning,  the  flavor  being  milder  than 
that  of  onion;  the  green  leaves  are  sometimes  eaten. 
Shallots  are  not  raised  from  seed,  but  from  their  cloves, 


252         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

or  parts  of  the  compound  bulb.  Varieties  are  the  true 
Shallot  (of  which  Vilmorin-Andrieux  gives  three  sub- 
varieties)  and  the  Jersey,  Ghent,  Russian,  and  Alencon 
Shallots,  all  larger  and  of  differing  botanical  character- 
istics. Cibol  is  another  name  for  the  plant.  Small 
brownish  onions  are  often  sold  as  Shallots. 

Soil. — As  for  onion.  Most  good  garden  soil  will  do 
if  not  too  dry. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart,  cloves  three  to  five 
inches  in  the  row. 

Plant  in  spring,  setting  the  point  of  the  clove  just 
below  or  at  the  surface. 

Culture  should  be  clean,  but  not  deep. 

Pull  when  the  tops  die  down;  dry  and  store  like 
onions. 

SKIRRET,  formerly  also  called  Skirwort,  is  Sium 
Sisajiim,  a  plant  once  grown  much  more  than  today, 
for  its  roots,  which  are  clustered  like  a  dahlia\s,  though 
thinner  and  longer.  They  are  served  like  parsnip  or 
salsify,  and  are  palatable  and  pleasant;  their  disad- 
vantage is  in  their  fibrous  core,  which  must  be  removed 
before  cooking.  Vilmorin-Andrieux,  remarking  that 
seedlings  differ  m  their  amounts  of  core,  suggests  that 
a  coreless  strain  might  be  bred.  Skirret  is  grown  from 
seed  or  from  root-divisions.    No  varieties  are  offered. 

Soil  deep,  rich,  cool,  not  recently  manured. 

Distances. — Rows  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 


SKIRKET— SORRELS  253 

Depth. — One -half  inch  for  seed.  Set  roots  two 
inches  deep. 

Sow  in  autumn  in  mild  climates;  ordinarily  in 
spring  when  the  ground  can  be  worked. 

Thin  or  transplant' to  si^  to  nine  inches  in  the  rows. 

Take  offsets  or  root -divisions  in  spring,  and  set  out 
to  the  same  distances. 

Dig  in  the  fall,  or 

Leave  roots  in  the  ground  until  spring. 

Store  in  sand  in  the  cellar. 

SOLANUM  COMMERSONI  is  a  plant  allied  to  the 
potato  and  a  possible  future  rival  of  it,  long  ago 
recommended  for  its  use  in  certain  conditions,  but  still 
very  little  known.  It  is  grown  like  potato  in  all 
particulars  except  depth  of  planting,  which  should  be 
four  inches  or  more  in  dry  soil,  barely  covering  in  wet. 
It  thrives  in  heavy,  wet,  or  chalky  land,  yields  well 
under  the  peculiar  conditions  which  suit  it  best,  is  very 
little  troubled  by  disease,  and  will  stand  a  little  frost, 
even  the  tubers  sharing  in  this  quality. 

SORRELS  and  DOCKS  are  various  perennial  plants 
of  the  genus  Rumex,  not  very  far  advanced  from  the 
wild  state,  but  grown  in  gardens,  especially  in  Europe, 
for  the  sake  of  their  very  early  yield  in  spring,  when 
green  vegetables  are  scarce.  The  earliest  is  probably 
the  Spinach  Dock,  which  is  Patience  Dock,  or  the  Herb 


254  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Patience  of  the  old  herbals;  other  Sorrels  follow  it  in 
succession :  Bailey  names  the  Belleville,  or  Broad-leaved 
French,  and  Vihnorin-Andrieux  gives  this  and  still 
others.  All  the  Sorrels  and  Docks  are  acid  (the  Patience 
Dock  perhaps  least  so),  and  especially  in  spring,  when 
this  is  prized.  Round-leaved  Sorrel  (R.  scutatus)  is  the 
latest  in  succession,  being  grown  in  summer.  Sorrels  are 
usually  given  an  out-of-the-way  place  in  the  garden, 
and  allowed  to  spread;  but  they  are  best  when  grown 
in  rows.  The  flower-stalks  should  always  be  cut  off,  so 
as  not  to  weaken  the  plants. 

Soil  rich  and  somewhat  moist.  Acid  soil  is  good 
for  Sorrel. 

Distances. — Rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  plants  six 
inches  in  the  rows. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 

Sow  seed  in  the  drills,  or 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring. 

Culture. — Grub  out  all  suckers,  in  row  culture.  Cut 
off  all  flower-stalks. 

Pi^k  the  large  leaves  (rather  than  take  the  whole 
top  at  one  time)  so  as  not  to  exhaust  the  plant. 

Renew  the  plantation  after  a  few  years,  when  the 
plants  seem  weaker. 

SORREL,  WOOD.  Wood  Son-el  is  Oxalis  acetosella, 
a  perennial  plant  seldom  cultivated,  and  not  offered  by 
seedsmen.    Roots  may  be  dug  from  wild  plants  and  set 


SORREL— SPEARMINT  255 

in  the  garden.  Once  there,  they  must  be  carefully  re- 
strained, or  they  will  multiply  rapidly.  Cut  off  all 
flower-stalks,  and  when  once  the  plants  are  established 
pick  the  leaves  as  wanted.  Set  in  cool  soil,  the 
plants  in  a  bed,  or  individually  at  about  one  foot 
each  way. 

SORREL,  DEPRESS,  WOOD.  Deppe^s  Wood  Sor- 
rel is  Oocalis  Deppei^  sl  Mexican  plant  grown  for  both 
roots  and  leaves.  Serve  the  leaves  as  salad;  the  roots, 
peeled,  salted,  and  cooked  like  asparagus,  are  sometimes 
used,  but  are  rather  insipid.  The  plant  is  multiplied 
from  bulbels  which  grow  on  the  root,  or  by  root- 
divisions. 

Soil  rich,  moist,  and  if  possible  partially  shaded. 

Rows  one  foot  apart;  bulbels  in  the  row  six  inches. 

Cover  about  one  inch. 

Set  root -divisions  twelve  by  six  inches. 

Cultivate  frequently.    Cut  off*  all  flower-stalks. 

Cut  the  leaves  as  wanted. 

Mulch  lightly  in  winter.  Except  in  very  cold  posi- 
tions the  plant  is  hardy. 

SOJA  BEAN  or 

SOY  BEAN.    See  Bean,  Soy. 

SPEARMINT.    See  Mint. 


256 


THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 


SPINACH  or  SPINAGE  {Spinacia  oleracea)  is  a 
short-seasoned  plant  which  bolts  in  heat,  and  therefore 
grown  chiefly  as  a  fall  or  spring  crop,  for  its  leaves, 
served  boiled.  Spinach  comes  to  maturity  in  from  six 
to  eight  weeks,  is  very  hardy  to  frost,  and  may  be  kept 
over  the  winter  in  the  North,  under  a  mulch,  though  in 
New  England  not  all  of  the  plants  will  live.  It  may 
also  be  wintered  in  frames,  and  brought  into  growth 


^  ^' 


Fig.  117.    Spinach  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

very  early,  or  even  made  to  give  a  winter  yield  under 
favorable  conditions.  Spinach  was  formerly  forced,  in 
great  quantities,  but  the  southern  crop  has  now  almost 
crowded  forced  Spinach  from  the  northern  markets. 
Varieties  are  under  two  heads,  the  prickly-seeded  and 
the  round-seeded,  the  former  the  hardier,  the  latter  the 
more  heat-resistant.  Diseases  and  pests  are  sometimes 
troublesome. 

Soil. — For  early  crop,  rich,  light  and  quick.  For  a 
later,  cool  and  moist.  Manure  may  be  dug  in,  and  the 
commercial  fertilizer  should    be  rich  in  nitrogen.    At 


SPINACH 


257 


planting  the  soil  should  be  in  good  tilth.  For'  fall  sow- 
ing the  land  should  have  plenty  of  humus  and  be  of 
good  texture,  so  as  not  to  wash  or  heave. 

Distances. — Rows  a  foot  or  more  apart,  plants  four 
to  six  inches  in  the  rows. 

Depth. — One  inch. 

Sow  about  September  1  for  an  early  crop,  or  in  spring 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.    For  later  sow- 


Fig.  118.    Spinach  plant.    One-third  natural  size. 

ings  the  seed  should  be  soaked.  Sow  for  succession 
every  fortnight  until  June,  and  again  in  August  for  the 
fall  crop. 

Thhx  to  four  to  six  inches  in  the  rows,  or  to  nine 
inches  for  large  varieties. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch. 

Fertilizer. — The  plant  will  be  much  improved  by 
light  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure, 
every  ten  days  or  two  weeks. 


258  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Pick  the  leaves  as  needed,  but  if  the  plants  threaten 
to  bolt,  cut  the  whole  plant.  Two  or  three  pickings 
may  be  had  for  the  home  table  from  the  early  and  late 
crops. 

Under  glass. — Very  early  sowings  of  Spinach  may 
be  made  under  glass  in  March,  the  plants  to  be  set  out 
when  the  ground  is  warm  and  the  plants  well  hardened 
off.  In  the  fall  plants  may  be  taken  to  frames,  or  sown 
in  them,  and  can  be  kept  growing  well  into  the  winter, 
or  else  can  be  left  dormant,  to  be  forced  into  growth 
by  the  use  of  glass  as  needed. 

Protection. — Mulch  the  fall-sown  crop  with  straw  or 
hay. 

Diseases. — Anthracnose,  leaf-blight,  mildew,  and 
white  smut  may  be  checked  by  copper  fungicides,  which 
are,  however,  too  poisonous  to  be  safe  with  a  pot-herb 
plant.  Rotation,  and  burning  all  affected  plants,  are 
advised,  and  the  soil  may  be  treated  with  flowers 
of  sulphur  mixed  with  air-slaked  lime.  Try  spraying 
with  ''dilute  solutions  of  clear  fungicides."  (Lode- 
man.) 

Pests  are  chiefly  the  leaf-miner,  which  in  places 
makes  much  trouble.  No  remedy  is  as  yet  known ;  deep 
plowing  in  fall  or  early  spring,  to  bury  the  pupae,  and 
clean  cultivation  of  the  field,  and  of  all  neighboring 
spots  to  destroy  pigweed,  will  be  of  use. 

SPINACH,  FRENCH,  or 


SPINACH  259 

SPINACH,  MOUNTAIN.    See  Orach. 

SPINACH,  NEW  ZEALAND,  sometimes  called  New 
Zealand  Ice-plant,  is  Tetragonia  eocpansa,  a  hardy 
annual  plant  which  is  vigorous  in  heat  and  is  used  as  a 
summer  substitute  for  Spinach.  It  may  be  started 
early  under  glass,  or  planted  in  the  open  when  the 
ground  is  fit,  and  when  the  plants  are  well  established 
they  will  continue  to  yield  throughout  the  season,  until 
heavy  frosts.  Plants  are  often  started  in  the  open  about 
September  1,  and  taken  under  glass  to  force.  The 
parts  used  are  the  leaves  and  young  tips,  used  as 
greens.  Given  plenty  of  room,  the  plant  is  very  pro- 
ductive. There  appears  to  be  but  one  variety,  and 
insects  and  diseases  are  not  troublesome.  New  Zealand 
Spinach  is  one  of  our  best  summer  pot-herbs,  and 
should  be  better  known. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  a  medium 
loam.  It  should  have  been  previously  heavily  manm-ed, 
or  dressed  with  a  fertilizer  rich  in  nitrogen. 

Distances.— Tv;o  to  four  feet  each  way  according  to 
the  richness  of  the  ground.  Or  sow  in  drills  three  feet 
apart,  and 

Thin  to  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  in  the  row. 

Depth  of  seed,  one  inch. 

Sow  under  glass  in  February  or  March,  having 
soaked  the  seed,  as  germination  is  slow.  Transplant 
into  pots,  do  not  allow  to  become  pot-bound,  harden 


260         THE    BOOK   OF   \'T:GETABLES 

off,  and  set  out  about  May  1.  Or  sow  in  the  open, 
when  the  ground  is  fit,  in  hills  or  drills  as  above.  If 
in  hills;  sow  three  to  four  seeds  to  a  hill,  and  thin  to 
one  plant.  Successional  sowings  are  scarcely  needed,  as 
the  plants  will  live  until  winter,  if  not  too  heavily 
cropped.  An  early  spring  crop  will  sometimes  come 
from  self-seeding. 

Transplant  thinnings  if  needed,  but  with  care  to 
save  as  much  of  the  roots  as  possible. 

Thinning  in  the  drills  may  be  gradual,  the  young 
plants  eaten. 

Culture. — Keep  the  surface  in  good  condition  until 
the  plants  cover  the  ground. 

Fertilize  about  once  in  two  weeks  with  nitrate  of 
soda  or  liquid  manure. 

Pich  the  leaves  and  shoots  as  wanted. 

Under  glass  in  the  fall. — The  plants  will  continue  to 
yield  until  December  if  covered  with  frames  where  they 
stand.    Or 

Lift  and  take  into  the  house,  where  if  not  too 
old  or  exhausted  by  bearing  they  will  yield  throughout 
the  winter.    Or 

Mulch  young  plants  in  the  fall,  and  they  will  live 
through  an  ordinary  winter,  although  like  Spinach  they 
will  not  always  grow  vigorously  in  spring.  For  this 
purpose  sow  the  last  week  in  August. 

SPROUTS,  BRUSSELS.   See  Brussels  Sprouts. 


SQUASHES 


263 


SQUASHES  are  various  forms  of  the  Cttcurhitce,  in- 
cluding the  Pumpkins  and  Vegetable  Marrows,  which 
are  cultivated  in  the  same  way,  for   their  large  fruits. 


Fig.  119.    Squash  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

Varieties  are  very  numerous,  coming  botanically  under 
the  names  of  Cucurbita  maxima^  C.  pepo^  and  C.  rnos- 
chata;  culturally  they  divide  into  bush  and  running 
Squashes,  the  Pumpkins  and  Marrows  being  of  the 
second  type.  Bush  Squashes  are  chiefly  summer  varie- 
ties, while  running  kinds  are  chiefly  late  and  long-keep- 
ing. The  popular  idea  is  that  the 
varieties  hybridize  when  in  flower, 
and  this  is  true  to  a  limited  extent 
of  some  of  them,  but  pumpkins  will 
not  cross  with  Squashes.  They  are  all 
tender  annual  plants,  and  must,  gen-    Fig.  120.  Plant  of  sum- 

11  1  .  1    i       ii     •         1  ™er  Squash,  scallop 

erally  speakmg,  complete   their    de-      or  pattypan  type. 


262 


THE    BOOK    OF   \:EGETABLES 


Fig.  HI. 


Pineapple  summer  Squash,  of  the 
pattypan  type. 


velopment  between  June  and  September,  but  their 
maturity  may  be  hastened  by  starting  under  glass,  or 
under  protection 
in  the  field.  The 
soil  should  have 
plenty  of  available 
plant  -  food,  and 
every  effort  should 
be  made  to  ad- 
vance the  growth 
of  the  vines,  so  that 
they  blossom  before  midsummer.  Culture  is  not  diffi- 
cult: the  soil  moisture  should  be  preserved,  and  the 
running  vines  not  allowed  either  to  root  at  the  joints 
or  to  run  to  vine,  while  all  very  early  solitary  blossoms 
.should  be  picked  off,  for  the  sake  of  bringing  on  a  later 
uniform  crop.    Storage  of  the  winter  Squashes  depends 

for  success  upon 
not  bruising  them, 
and  upon  not  start- 
ing the  stem,  as 
well  as  upon  pro- 
tection from  frost. 
Pests  and  diseases 
are  troublesome. 

Soil    should    be 
"quick,"*"  warm,  and 

Summer  Bergen  Squash.    C.  Pepo.        well      drained,      but 


SQUASHES 


not  dry.  Hills  may  be  specially  prepared  by  mixing 
compost  with  the  earth  in  a  space  eighteen  inches  or 
more  across,  or  by  filling  the  entire  space  with  compost, 

but  much  manure 
or  nitrogen  is  not 
advisable,  as  the 
plants  will  be  likely 
to  run  to  vine.  See 
also  under  Soil  for 

Fig,  123.    Summer  Crookneck  Squash.     C.Pepo.      Muskmelon. 

Distances'  are  according  to  variety,  hills  of  bush 
varieties  three  to  five  feet  apart  each  way,  of  running 
kinds  six  to  nine  feet.  Give  as  much  room  as  can  be 
spared,  especially  in  good  soil. 

Depth.- — About  one  inch. 

Sorv  under  glass  three  to  four  weeks  before  the  time 
of  setting  out,  which  should  be  when  frosts  are  past. 
Or  sow  in  the  open,  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
under  hand-glasses,  the  first  week  in  May.  Sow  with- 
out protection  about 
June  1.  There  should 
be  ten  to  twelve  seeds 
to  the  hill.  Under 
glass  sow  in  pots  or 
on  inverted  sods,  as 
Squashes  transplant 
poorly,     five     to     six 

-  ,  Fig.  124.  Winter  Crookneck  Squash. 

seeds    to    each    recep-  c  moschaca. 


264 


THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


tacle,  thin  to  one.    Or  sow  in  berry-boxes  and  set  out 

box  and  all. 

Thin    when    danger  from    pests    is  over,  to    three 

plants  in  the  hill. 

Set  out  house-grown    plants  when  frosts  are  past, 

three  to  the  hill. 

Culture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch,  and  prevent 

running  .varieties  from  rooting  at  the  joints,  as  they 

would  then  grow  rather  than 
make  fruit.  If  the  plants, 
after  flowering,  run  too  much 
to  vine,  pinch  them  back  to 
force  fruiting.  If  one  fruit 
sets  much  earlier  than  the 
others,  pick  it  off,  for  the 
For  best  results,  pick  off  all 


fill'- 

Fig.  125.    Hubbard  Squash, 


sake  of  a  uniform  crop. 

blossoms  from  a  plant  after  two  or  three  fruits  have 

set,  and  pinch  back  all  ends. 

Fertilizer. — It  is  better  to  depend  upon  a  well- 
enriched  soil  than  to  fertilize  after  the  plants  have 
started.  A  little  quick-acting  fertilizer  under  the  seeds 
in  the  hill  (but  not  touching  them)  will  help  the 
stai-t,  but  nitrogen  added  later  in  available  form  will 
produce  vines  rather  than  fruit. 

Pick  summer  varieties  when  ripe.  Pick  winter  kinds, 
for  storage,  when  almost  ripe,  taking  care  not  to  start 
the  stem,  and  leave  them  in  the  sun  to  dry;  the  end 
of  the  stem  should  dry  as  soon  as  possible.    Then 


SQUASHES 


265 


Store  in  a  well-aired,  dry  house  or  cellar,  away 
from  frost,  the  temperature  preferably  at  about  50 
degrees,  45  to  65  degi-ees  being  the  safe  range.  In 
transportation,  take  care  not  to  bruise  the  Squashes. 

Diseases. — Are  the  same  as  of  cucumber,  which  see. 

Pests. — The  striped  cucumber  beetle  is,  until  the 
plants  grow  too  large  for  it,  the  worst  foe  of  the 
Squash,  and  four- 
fifths  of  the  vines 
are  likely  to  go  ii 
the  bugs  are 
numerous.  Treat 
as  under  cucumber, 
except  that  Squash 
follows  Squash. 
Hand  covers  may 
be  used.  The  squash 
bug  is  another  bad 
enemy;  treat  in  the 

same    way,  pick     by  Fig-  l^e.    Common  Pumpkin.     O.  Pepo. 

hand,  and  trap  at  night  under  chips  or  shingles  left 
near  the  plants,  under  which  the  insects  will  hide. 
Burn  all  vines  after  harvest,  or  plow  them  under.  In 
small  plantations,  hunt  for  the  eggs,  which  are  very 
visible  in  large  patches  on  the  under  sides  of  the 
leaves;  tear  off  the  part  of  the  leaf  and  destroy. 

For  melon-louse  use  methods  as   under  Cucumber 
and  Muskmelon. 


266         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

For  root- borer  catch  the  moths.  These  are  about 
an  inch  in  spread,  very  dark  brown  with  an  olive  sheen, 
and  settle  at  the  base  of  the  leaves  at  twilight.  Help 
the  joints  root  by  covering  with  earth;  they  will  then 


Fig.  127.    Vegetable  Marrow.     C.  pepo. 

better  withstand  the  pest.  Plant  trap  crops  of  early- 
fruiting  varieties,  and  when  the  fruits  are  picked  burn 
the  vines,  roots  and  all.  Cut  out  the  borers  from  the 
vines  and  roots  by  splitting  these  lengthwise,  then  cover 
the  injured  parts  with  earth;  avoid  infested  ground; 
harrow  lightly  in  fall  and  plow  deeply  in  spring.  Feed 
well  and  keep  the  plants  free  of  diseases  and  other 
pests. 

SQUASH,  GUINEA.     See  Eggplant. 

STACHYS  TUBERIFERA,  or  Chinese  or  Japanese 
Artichoke,  sometimes  called  Chorogi  or  Knotroot,  is  a 
tuber-bearing  type  of  the  Stachys  group  of  plants,  and 
has  been  grown  in  two  varieties,  the  Sieholdi  and  the 
Floridana,  though  in  general  very  little  known.    The 


STACHYS    TUBERIFERA 


267 


tubers  may  be  left  in  the  ground  through  an  ordinary 
winter,  and  should  be  dug  only  when  wanted,  as  they 
soon  spoil  upon  exposure  to  the  air.  They  come  to 
full  size  very  late  in  the  season,  continuing  to  grow  as 
long  as  the  tops  are  green. 


Fiff.  128.    Tuber  of  Stachys  tuberifera.    Three-fourths  natural  size. 

Soil  light  and  quick. 
Distances. — One  foot  each  way. 
Depth. — Cover  about  two  inches. 
Set  tubers  when  heavy  frosts  are  past. 
Cultivate  regularly. 

Dig  as  wanted  after  the  tops  die  down. 
If  stored^  keep  in  moist  sand. 
Use. — Fry,  or  use  in  salad. 


STAR    OF    THE    EARTH. 

Plantain. 


See    Buck's    Horn 


ST.  PETER'S  HERB.    See  Samphire. 


268         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

STRAWBERRY  BLITE,  our  common  weed  (Cheno- 
podium  capitatum),  is  sometimes  grown  in  gardens  as  a 
pot-herb.    Cultivate  like  Spinach. 

SUCCORY.    See  Chicory. 

SUGAR-BEET.    See  Beet,  Sugar. 

SWEET  CICELY,  or  Sweet-scented  Chervil  {MyrrMs 
odoi^ata)^  is  a  hardy  perennial  whose  leaves  are  used  in 
salads;  they  have  a  strong  aniseed  flavor.  In  France 
the  roots  are  used  in  soups. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  earth. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart  in  seed-bed.  Per- 
manent distances  two  feet  each  way. 

Depth. — One  inch. 

Sow  in  autumn,  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  ripe. 
Spring-sown  seed  is  likely  to  fail. 

Thin  to  three  inches  in  the  seed-bed. 

Transplant  when  growing  well,  at  five  or  six  inches, 
to  the  permanent  distances.  Or  wait  until  the  fol- 
lowing spring. 

Set  root -divisions  in  spring. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care. 

Pich  the  leaves  or  dig  the  roots  as  wanted. 

Mulch  lightly  in  winter. 

Reset  or  renew  every  few  years. 


SWEET   POTATO 


269 


SWEET  POTATO  {Ipomosa  Batatas)  is  a  tender 
plant  grown  for  its  tuberous  roots.  North  of  New 
Jersey  it  is  seldom  grown  except  by  amateurs,  as  it 
requires  a  long  season.  The  plants  are  started  from 
tubers  set  in  a  mild  hotbed;  sprouts  (or  "draws'")  will 
rise  and  root  themselves,  when  they  are  cut  off  without 
disturbing  the  potatoes,  which  send  up  a  second  crop. 
From  the  sprouts  when  set  in  the  field  vines  will  spring, 
and  by  cuttings  taken  from  their  tips,  more  vines  may 
be  propagated.  The 
plant  requires  a 
rich,  loose  soil,  pref- 
erably deep ;  cul- 
ture is  simple,  but 
diseases  are  trouble- 
some;    the    tubers 

should     be     dus;     as  Fig-  129.    Tubers  of  Sweet  Potato. 

soon  as  the  vines  have  been  touched  with  frost,  and 
should  be  stored  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  Varieties 
are  exceedingly  numerous  and  difficult  of  classification ; 
there  is  a  vineless  kind. 

Soil  rich,  light,  loose  and  quick.  Stable  manure 
may  be  used,  or  a  fertilizer  of  nitrogen  3  per  cent, 
phosphoric  acid  7  per  cent,  potash  12  per  cent  (Voor- 
hees).  Either  should  be  well  worked  into  the  soil  be- 
fore the  sprouts  are  set,  and  may  be  put  along  the  rows. 

Distances. — Set  sprouts  or  cuttings  eighteen  inches 
by  two  to  three  feet. 


270         THE   BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

Depth. — Set  sprouts  deeper  than  before.  Cover 
cuttings  (usually  laid  nearly  horizontally)  all  but  their 
tips. 

Sprouting. — The  potatoes  (large  or  small)  are  usually 
laid  in  a  mild  hotbed  three  to  four  weeks  before  frosts 
will  pass.  Use  whole  tubers,  cover  with  three  to  four 
inches  of  light  earth.  When  the  sprouts  are  four  to  five 
inches  long,  and  well  rooted,  break  them  from  the 
tubers  and  set  them  in  the  field.  Take  subsequent 
sprouts  until  no  more  appear.  In  the  North  seedsmen 
sell  sprouts. 

Cuttings  are  made  from  the  tips  of  young  vines,  and 
are  taken  six  to  nine  inches  long. 

Cultivate  regularly  until  the  vines  cover  the  ground. 
Allow  the  vines  to  root. 

Dig  as  soon  as  the  vines  are  touched  with  frost.  A 
heavy  frost  is  likely  to  spoil  the  tubers. 

Store  in  sand  in  boxes  away  from  frost.  In  the 
South  the  potatoes  are  stored  in  piles  of  from  thirty 
to  fifty  bushels,  covered  with  earth  but  well  ventilated, 
usually  with  drain-pipes. 

Diseases  are  particularly  various  kinds  of  rot,  for 
which  practice  rotation,  reject  (in  planting  or  storing) 
all  diseased  plants,  dig  when  the  weather  is  dry,  handle 
with  great  care,  and  if  possible  in  padded  baskets. 
Against  soil  rot  use  sulphur  and  kainit  mixed,  300  to  400 
pounds  of  each  per  acre,  well  worked  into  the  soil. 
Against  black  rot  do  not  set  in  the  field  any  affected 


SWEET   POTATO— TANSY  271 

sprouts,  but  plant  them  in  a  seed-bed  and  use  cuttings 
to  make  the  plantation.  Against  leaf-spot,  and  white 
or  leaf-mold,  Bordeaux. 

Pests. — Against  beetles  use  arsenites,  against  cut- 
worms poisoned  baits  (see  under  Cabbage). 

TAGETES  LUCIDA.    See  under  Tarragon. 

TANSY,  sometimes  called  Buttons,  is  Tanacetum 
vulgcnr,  a  hardy  herbaceous  perennial  formerly  used  in 
domestic  medicine  and  in  seasoning  puddings  and  ome- 
lettes. It  is  tall  and  rank-growing,  persistent  and  likely 
to  spread ;  as  it  exhausts  the  soil,  it  should  be  replanted 
elsewhere,  every  few  years ;  a  few  plants  are  all  that  are 
necessary  in  any  garden,  except  for  the  showy  effect 
when  in  bloom.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  Common 
and  the  Curled;  the  latter  is  preferable,  and  is  hand- 
some for  garnishing. 

Soil. — Any  good  earth,  if  well  drained. 

Distances. — Rows  two  feet  apart;  plants  in  the  row 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit.  Thin  when  growing 
well,  at  three  or  four  inches. 

Depth  of  seed,  one-half  to  one  inch.  Of  roots  or  slips, 
as  before. 

Set  root -divisions  in  spring. 

TrtA;^  cuttings  in  summer,  and  water  till  established. 
Transplant  in  fall  or  spring. 


272         THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care,  and  keep  from  spread- 
ing.   For  best  leaf  growth  pinch  off  all  flower-buds. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted.  The  flowers  are  some- 
times used  in  domestic  medicine. 

Reset  in  new  ground  every  two  or  three  years. 

TARRAGON  (Artemisia  Draciinculus)  is  a  perennial 
plant  grown  for  its  leaves  and  tender  tips,  used  in 
seasoning,  in  the  making  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  and  of 
oil  of  Tarrajjon.  It  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  aromatic 
plants,  and  in  Europe  is  much  used.  In  America  it  is 
tender,  and  needs  winter  protection  in  the  North.  The 
leaves  and  tips  when  fresh  are  steeped  in  vinegar  to 
make  Tarragon  vinegar,  or  are  cut  up  for  seasoning,  or 
may  in  the  fall  be  picked  and  dried  for  winter  use.  It 
is  also  possible  to  take  the  plants  into  the  house  for 
use  as  needed.  The  true  Tarragon  does  not  produce 
seed,  but  an  inferior  Russian  variety  does,  and  its  seed 
is  occasionally  offered  for  sale.  The  plants  of  true  Tar- 
ragon may  be  bought  of  seedsmen  in  spring  and  early 
summer.  Sweet-scented  Marigold  (Tagetes  lucida)  is 
sometimes  used,  and  very  satisfactorily,  as  a  substitute 
for  Tarragon. 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil  that  is  not  wet ;  Tar- 
ragon does  better  in  a  poor  soil  than  in  a  rich  one.  It 
likes  sun. 

Distances. — Plants  one  foot  apart  each  way. 

Depths  as  before. 


TARRAGON— THYME  273 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring. 

Take  cuttings  or  slips  in  spring  or  summer,  and 
water  till  established. 

Culture. — Give  ordinary  care ;  cut  off  all  flower  stems. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  tips  as  needed  when  once  the 
plants  are  well  established.  They  are  best  when  the 
plants  are  ready  to  flower.  For  making  Tarragon  vine- 
gar, soak  the  leaves  and  tips  in  good  vinegar.  In  the 
fall  cut  down  the  plant  and  dry  the  leaves. 

Mulch  over  m  inter. 

Reset  the  plantation  every  few  years,  in  fresh  soil. 

THISTLE,  GOLDEN.    See  Scolymus. 

THOROUGHWORT  {Eupatorium  perfoUatum)  is  a 
perennial  herb  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  in  infusion  as 
a  tonic.  Other  of  the  species  are  E.  cannahinum^  hemp 
agrimony,  and  the  bitter-bush,  E.  villosum,  which  are 
similarly  grown. 

Soil  preferably  moist. 

Distances  two  by  two  feet. 

Depth  of  seed,  an  inch ;  of  roots,  as  before. 

Sozv  when  the  ground  is  fit.    Thin  when  well  up. 

Set  root-divisions  in  spring. 

Pick  for  use  as  wanted.    Or  dry  and  store. 

TEYME  is  Thymus.)  a  perennial  plant  grown  in  two 
varieties,  the  Common  {T.  vulgaris)  and  the  Lemon 


274         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

(C  citriodorus'),  the  latter  a  creeping  plant  about  four 
inches  high.  Of  the  common  Thyme  there  are  also  nar- 
row- and  broad-leaved  varieties.  The  plant  is  propagated 
by  seeds,  root-divisions  and  (especially  in  the  case  of 
the  Lemon  Thyme)  by  layers.  Wild  Thyme,  or 
Mother-of-Thyme,  may  be  brought  into  gardens. 
Thyme  is  often  grown  as  an  edging. 

Soil  light  and  warm. 

Rows  one  foot  apart. 

Depth  one  inch.  Of  divisions  or  rooted  layers  as  be- 
fore. 

Sow  when  heavy  frosts  are  past. 

Thin  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

Transplant  in  fall  or  spring. 

Set  root -divisions  or  lift  layers  in  spring. 

Pick  the  leaves  and  tender  tips  as  wanted  for  use  in 
seasoning.    Or  dry  and  store. 

Renew  every  three  or  four  years. 

TOBACCO,  cultivated  chiefly  commercially,  is  not 
considered  here. 

TOMATO,  formerly  called  Love-Apple  {Ly coper sicum 
escidentum\  is  a  semi-tropical  annual  plant  grown  for 
its  fruits,  which  are  among  the  most  popular  of  our 
vegetables,  although  the  belief  that  the  Tomato  was 
poisonous  did  not  allow  its  cultivation  and  develop- 
ment until  within  the  nineteenth  century.    Now  it  is 


TOMATO 


275 


grown  on  a  great  scale,  and  excellent  strains  have  been 
developed,  entirely  superseding  the  smaller  angular 
fruits  of  earlier  days.    As  a  tender  plant,  the  Tomato 


Fig.  130.    Seedlings  of  Tomato.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

cannot  be  very  successfully  grown   in  the  North  unless 

it  is  started  under  glass,  eight  to  ten  weeks  before  it 

can  be  set  in  the  field.    To  develop  stocky  plants,  two 

or  three  transplantings  are  usual;  and  as  the  Tomato 

transplants  poorly,  pots  are  better  for  use  than   flats, 

although  seedsmen  offer  the  plants  in  boxes  of  a  dozen 

or   more,  late  in  the  spring. 

As  in  the  case  of  celery,  the 

plants    are    best    grown    at 

home,    with     great    care    to 

make  sure  that  they  suffer  no 

check,   and    also    to    prevent 

them   from  growing  too  tall 

for  their  strength.    Under  the 

best     conditions,     Tomatoes  Fig.  isi.    oid  and  new  types  of 

Tomato.    Note  the  differences 


mav  be  advanced  as  far  as  to 


in  size  and  shape. 


216 


THE   BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 


be  bearing  fruit  before  they  are  set  in  the  field,  but 
with  ordinary  house  or  frame  conditions  this  is  best  not 
attempted.  When  set  out,  after  frosts  are  past,  Toma- 
toes should  be  given  a  light  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda 


Fig.  132.     Modern  Tomatoes,  large  and  round. 

or  of  liquid  manure  and  should  have  the  best  of  culti- 
vation. Training  the  plants  produces  early  fruits,  and 
generally  speaking  it  is  always  best  to  give  Tomatoes 
some  kind  of  support,  to  allow  the  fruits  to  develop 
and  to  prevent  them  from  rotting  on  the  ground. 
The  best  results  are  obtained  from  Tomatoes  trained 
upright,  and  pruned  to  a  single  stem,  care  being  taken 
to  pinch  off  all  side  shoots,  and  after  three  clusters  of 
fruits  have  set  to  pinch  off  all  subsequent  blossoms. 
By  this  method  the  earliest  fruits  are  produced,  and 
the  Tomatoes  are  more  regular  in  size.  Other  methods 
are  training  to  two  or  three  stems.     For  such  training 


TOMATO  277 

the  plants  are  tied  to  stakes,  or  to  trellises,  made  of 
M'ood  or  wires.  Less  care  is  necessary  when  the  plants 
are  kept  off  the  ground  by  means  of  wire  or  wooden 
supports,  such  as  can  be  bought  or  made  at  home; 
over  them  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  at  will,  but 
so  much  of  care  as  will  keep  the  fruits  from  being  too 
much  shaded  by  the  leaves  is  always  worth  giving. 
Late  in  the  season,  also,  say  about  the  first  of  Septem- 
ber, it  is  well  to  cut  off  all  growing  tips  and  all  blos- 
soms which  have  not  set  fruit.  The  simplest  method  of 
tomato-growing  is  to  let  the  plants  sprawl  upon  the 
ground;  this  is  the  common  commercial  method,  but 
it  has  been  proved  that  such  plants  produce  less  weight 
of  fruit  and  that  more  of  it  is  lost  through  rot.  If  the 
ground  is  mulched  before  the  plants  cover  it,  more 
fruit  is  produced,  but  it  will  rot  more.  At  the  same 
time,  vines  which  lie  upon  the  ground  are  most  easily 
covered  against  early  frosts.  Varieties  of  Tomatoes  are 
several,  including  the  Currant  {L.  pimpinelUfolium) 
Cherry,  Peach,  Pear  and  Plum,  and  the  Common. 
Strawberry  or  Husk  Tomatoes  (which  see  below)  are  a 
different  plant.  The  Common  Tomato  has  been  devel- 
oped into  many  strains,  suitable  for  all  conditions, 
varying  in  characteristics  from  dwarf  to  tall-growing, 
deep  red  in  color  through  yellow  to  almost  white,  and 
of  sizes  varying  from  medium  to  very  large.  Diseases 
and  pests  are  not  very  troublesome. 

Young  Tomato  plants  are  alwavs  for  sale  in  spring 


278  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

by  seedsmen  and  most  provision  dealers.    Named  varie- 
ties are  best ;  buy  them  of  seedsmen. 

Soil  should    be  rich  and  quick,  and  not  too  dry. 
Tomato   should    not    be   highly  fed  with  nitrogenous 


Fig.  133.    A  spray  of  Tomatoes. 


manures,  therefore  it  does  best  on  ground  that  has  been 
well  manured  in  the  previous  year,  rather  on  a  plot  that 
has  just  been  manured.  If  barnyard  manure  is  used  at 
all,  it  should  be  well  composted,  and   not  applied  in 


TOMATO  279 

large  quantities,  or  it  will  cause  too  late  fruiting. 
Chemical  fertilizers  should  be  applied  in  proportion  to 
the  manure  used,  and  generally  speaking  should  be  rich 
in  potash.  Nitrate  of  soda  is  especially  valuable  with 
Tomatoes,  but  should  be  properly  given;  if  much  ma- 
nure has  been  dug  in,  the  nitrate  should  be  less,  and  vice 
versa.  For  an  especially  early  crop  a  light  warm  loam 
should  be  chosen,  and  the  nitrate  applied  at  the  rate  of 
150  to  250  pounds  per  acre,  at  the  time  of  setting  out. 
For  a  general  crop  a  slightly  heavier  loam  may  be 
chosen,  and  the  nitrate  applied  at  the  rate  of  200 
pounds  per  acre  in  three  equal  dressings,  the  first  at 
setting  out,  the  others  at  intervals  of  about  three 
weeks.  Tomato  soil  should  be  in  good  tillage  at  the 
time  of  setting  out. 

Distances  are  somewhat  according  to  variety,  but 
chiefly  according  to  methods  of  training.  The  rows 
should  be  three  to  four  feet  apart.  If  the  plants  are 
to  be  trained  to  a  single  stem,  they  may  be  set  eighteen 
inches  or  even  closer  in  the  rows.  If  they  are  to  be 
pruned  to  two  or  three  stems,  set  farther  apart,  until 
if  they  are  to  be  allowed  to  cover  the  ground  set  three 
by  three  or  four  by  four  feet  according  to  the  richness 
of  the  ground. 

Depth. — Sow  in  the  flats  or  frame  about  one-eighth 
inch  deep.    Outdoors  one-half  to  one  inch  deep. 

Sow  under  glass  about  the  middle  of  March,  or 
from   six  to  ten  weeks  before  the  time  of  setting  out, 


280 


THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 


which  is  about  June   1   at  the  latitude  of  New  York. 
vj^^  Outdoor  sowings  are  rare  in  the  North 

and  are  not  safe  until  frosts  are  past 
except   in  very  sheltered  situations  or 
else  where   protection  can   be 
given. 

Prick   out    once   or   twice, 
but  preferably  trans- 
plant into  pots,  the 
first  transplanting 
soon  after  the  second 
leaves  develop,  or  as 
the  plants  crowd; 
repot  as  the  plants 
grow. 

Keep    the    plants 

growing   steadily 

from     the     first,    by 

regular  watering  and 

transplanting. 

Set  out  when  danger  of 

frosts  is  over,  about  June 

1,  according  to  the  season. 

If  they   are  "leggy,""  cut 

back  at  setting  out,  or  set 

„.    ,„,     ^      .,  //x    ,v    '      deep,   or    tie    at    once    to 

Fig.  134.    A  uniform      J{/','\.    '  ^ 

crop    of    good  '  support.     Drcss    with   ni- 

Tomatoes.   The  result  of  training      ,       ,         /»        i  i 

to  a  single  stem.  trate  ol  soda  as  above. 


TOMATO 


281 


Culture  should  be  regular  and  constant. 
Fertilize  as  above,  under  Soil. 

Traini?ig  should  begin  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  tall 
enough  to  be  in  danger  of  being  broken  down  by  wind. 
Tie  to  stakes  or  trellis  by 
raffia  or  soft  string,  passing 
once  around  the  stem  and 
taking  care  not  to  wrap  so 
tight  that  the  plant  cannot  en- 
large. Tie  again  as  the  plants 
grow,  and  prune  according  to 
the  system  chosen.  Training 
to  stakes  requires  prunino-  in 
order  to  be  successful. 

Pijich  of  the  ends  of  the 
vine  and  side  shoots  if  the 
plant  is  growing  too  fast  with- 
out setting  fruit.  At  about 
the  first  of  September  pinch 
off  ends,  and  all  blossoms,  so 
that  the  fruit  already  set  shall 
be  matured. 

Pick  all  fruits  as  soon  as 
they  ripen,  whether  needed 
or  not. 

Protection  against  frost  is  possible  by  covering  the 
vines  with  cloths  or  mattings  at  ni^ht;  in  the  home 
garden  the  yield  may  be  thus  prolonged  for  some  time. 


Fig.  135.  Tomato  trained  to 
a  stake.  Note  that  the  stake 
should  be  stout. 


282         THE    BOOK   OF   VEGETABLES 

At  the  approacli  of  heavy  frosts,  vines  may  be  pulled 
entire  and  hung  indoors,  when  they  will  often  mature 
the  fruit  that  remains  on  them.  Or  the  unripe  fruit 
may  be  picked  and  put  in  closed  drawers  or  boxes  to 
ripen. 

Forcing  of  Tomatoes  is  now  quite  general;  hand 
pollenation  is  necessary ;  pruning  to  a  single  stem  is 
advised. 

Diseases  are  serious  chiefly  in  the  gi-eenhouse.  In 
the  field  the  most  troublesome  are  blight  and  rot.  For 
blight,  Bordeaux,  rotation  and  the  burning  of  diseased 
vines  are  recommended  ;  for  rot,  get  the  sun  and  air  to 
the  fruit  by  training  and  pruning,  and  spray  with  Bor- 
deaux. For  scab,  keep  from  the  ground  and  spray  with 
Bordeaux. 

Pests. — The  Tomato  is  troubled  occasionally  by 
insects  which  prey  chiefly  on  other  plants.  See  under 
the  other  headings  in  this  book.  Against  the  Tomato- 
worm  use  Paris  green,  or  any  stomach  poison,  or  pick 
by  hand.  Against  corn- worm,  systematic  fall  plowing; 
burn  affected  fruits.  Against  cutworm  and  white  grubs, 
see  under  Cabbage.  Against  Tomato-borer,  clean  cul- 
ture, cut  the  larvae  out  of  any  weakened  plant. 

TOMATO,  STRAWBERRY.  The  Strawberry  or 
Husk  Tomato,  with  various  allied  plants  called  by 
such  names  as  Cape  Gooseberry,  Dwarf  Cape  Goose- 
berry, Barbadoes  Gooseberry,  Chinese  Lantern  Plant, 


TOMATO,    STRAWBERRY 


283 


Ground  Cherry,  are  all  species  of  Physalis^  grown  in 
much  the  same  manner,  for  their  fruits,  used  for  eating 
raw,  cooking  and  preserving.  The  fruits  can  be  dried 
in  their  husks  and  will  keep  for  some  months.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Cyclopedia  of  American  Agriculture,  they 
classify  best  as  follows.  Most  important  is  P.  puhescens 
(Strawbeny  or  Husk  Tomato,  Ground  Cherry,  Dwarf 
Cape  Gooseberry),  the  one  most  grown,  as  being  early 
and  free-fruiting. 
It  is  a  sprawling 
plant.  The  Cape 
Gooseberry  is  P. 
Peruviana^  of  too 
slow  development 
for  general  use  in 
the  North,  and 
little  offered  by 
seedsmen.  P.  ixo- 
carpa  is  also  not 
satisfactory  for 
garden  use,  althouo 
is  P.  Francheti,  a 
plant.  These  plants  are  all  annuals.  The  Winter  or 
Bladder  Cherry,  or  true  Strawberry  Tomato,  is  P, 
Alkakengi^  a  perennial,  of  low  growth  and  handsome 
fruitage,  but  not  truly  hardy  except  in  favorable 
situations,  and  well  protected.  It  is  usually  treated  as 
an  annual. 


Fig.  136. 


Strawberry  or  Husk  Tomatoes. 
Natural  size. 


jh  showy.     Chinese  Lantern  Plant 
very    handsome,    upright-growing 


284         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Soil. — Any  good  garden  soil,  preferably  light, 
warm  and  quick. 

Distances. — Set  plants  about  two  by  two  feet,  or  up 
to  four  by  four  feet  in  rich  ground. 

Depth. — Outdoors,  one-half  inch.  Indoors,  one- 
fourth  inch. 

tSow  under  glass  early  in  April,  and  transplant  as 
the  seedlings  gi'ow.     Sow  outdoors    in  seed-bed  when 


Fig.  137.    Physalis  pubescens.    The  fruits 
one-third  natural  size. 

frosts  are  past,  thin  to  three  inches  apart  in  the  drills 
and  at  five  to  six  inches  set  in  permanent  positions. 

Pick  the  fruits  when  ripe.     Dry  in  the  sun  those 
wanted  for  later  use,  or  else  preserve. 

TREE  PRIMROSE.    See  Evening  Primrose. 


TURNIP 


285 


TURNIP  {Brassica  rapd)  is  a  hardy  biennial  groMn 
for  its  roots,  usually  as  a  spring  and  fall  crop.  It  is 
managed  much  like  other  root-crops  when  in  the 
ground,  but  early  planting  is  desirable  for  the  first 
crop,  for  if  the  plant  does  not  grow  quickly  and  con- 


Fig.  138.    Turnip  seedlings.    Two-thirds  natural  size. 

tinuously  it  is  likely  to  be  stringy,  while  it  suffers  in 
heat.  Proper  soil  and  thinning  are  necessary  in  Turnip 
culture.  Varieties  are  many,  depending  upon  the  shape 
of  the  roots,  which  vary  from  long  through  short  to 
round  and  flat.  Diseases  and  pests  are  sometimes 
troublesome. 

Soil. — Should  be  rich  and  cool,  not  recently  manured 
and  in  fine  condition. 

Distances — Rows  a  foot  apart  or  more.  Thin  to 
stand  finally  to  six  to  nine  inches  in  the  row,  according 
to  variety,  by  two  or  three  thinnings ;  the  pulled  plants 
may  be  eaten. 

Depth. — One-half  to  one  inch. 


THE    BOOK   OF    VEGETABLES 


Sow  in  spring  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit.  Sow 
again  in  late  July  for  the  fall  crop. 

Cultivate  until  the  tops  cover  the  ground. 
Fertilize  with  nitrate  of  soda,  300  pounds  per  acre 
in  two  equal  dressings,  one  at  or  soon  after  sowing 
(keep  the  nitrate  from  seed  or  seedlings!)  and  the  other 
three  or  four  weeks  later.  Or  dress 
lightly  every  week.  For  a  general 
fertilizer,  per  acre,  "20  pounds  of 
nitrogen  (derived  in  part  from 
nitrate  of  soda),  40  pounds  of  phos- 
phoric acid  (derived  in  large  part 
from  phosphates)  and  40  pounds 
of  potash  (derived  from  muriates) 
would  be  a  fair  dressing  on  soils  of 
good  character."" — Voorhees.  This 
should  be  worked  into  the  soil 
before  sowing. 

Dig  early  plants  when  of  proper 
size.  Dig  fall  crop  before  the  ground  freezes.  Turnips 
will  live  over  winter  in  the  ground,  but  the  roots  are 
often  injured  by  freezing. 

Diseases. — Club-root  is  the  most  troublesome;  no 
satisfactory  remedies  have  been  found.  It  will  be  best 
not  to  plant  upon  infested  ground  until  the  disease  has 
died  out;  or  use  only  those  varieties,  such  as  the  flat 
turnips,  which  grow  well  cut  of,  or  sit  upon,  the  surface 
of  the  ground. 


Fig.  139. 
Turnip,  the  flat  type. 


TURNIP— UDO  287 

Pests. — The  root-maggot  is  the  worst.  In  some 
soils  the  pest  is  so  bad  that  Turnips  cannot  be  grown. 
Carbon  dioxide  injected  beside  the  roots  will  kill  the 
pests,  but  the  process  is  too  expensive  and  laborious. 
Dress  heavily  after  sowing  with  unleached  ashes  or  with 
tobacco  dust.  See  also  Cabbage-maggot  treatment. 
For  flea-beetle :  Bordeaux,  alone  or  with  soap ;  kerosene 
emulsion;  arsenites;  Paris  green  with  land- plaster,  one 
part  to  fifty. 

TURNIP,  SWEDISH.    See  Rutabaga. 

UDO  (Araiia  cordata)  is  a  Japanese  salad  plant  of 
recent  introduction  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
which  will  supply  both  seed  and  roots.  The  plant  is 
grown  in  two  varieties  as  follows: 

(1)  Kan  Udo  is  grown  from  seed,  and  produces 
shoots  much  as  Asparagus  or  Sea-Kale,  but  does  this 
in  the  fall  instead  of  the  spring. 

Soil. — Mellow  loam,  rich  and  deeply  dug. 

Soza  in  a  seed-bed,  rich  and  in  good  tilth,  rows  one 
foot  or  more  apart. 

Depth  about  one  inch. 

Thin  when  well  up  to  three  inches  in  the  rows. 

Transplant  at  six  inches  to  permanent  positions,  in 
rich  loam. 

Distances  four  feet  by  eighteen  inches. 


288  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Culture. — Feed  well,  and  keep  clear  of  weeds. 

Fertilize  with  a  high-grade  general  mixture. 

Forcing. — In  early  September  cut  down  the  tops, 
which  will  have  grown  to  four  to  five  feet.  Earth  up  the 
row  with  light  soil,  free  of  stones,  to  a  height  of  eigh- 
teen inches.  In  forty  to  sixty  days  shoots  will  force 
their  way  through  this,  and  should  be  cut  at  their  first 
appearance.  Remove  the  earth  from  around  them  and 
cut  as  low  as  possible,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the 
smaller  shoots.  Earth  once  more  and  cut  the  subse- 
quent shoots  when  they  have  grown.  Or  instead  of 
earthing,  cover  with  boxes  and  cut  the  shoots  when 
about  twelve  inches  long. 

Protection. — When  the  plants  have  ceased  to  bear, 
level  the  ground  and  mulch  heavily  with  earth  and 
straw,  or  best  with  several  inches  of  fresh  manure  with 
its  bedding,  so  that  it  shall  not  heat. 

Spring  treatment. — Remove  the  mulch.  Dig  the 
manure  into  the  ground;  or  dress  heavily  with  well- 
rotted  manure.  Feed  with  chemicals  at  intervals 
throughout  the  year. 

Renewal. — A  bed  of  Kan  Udo  should  last  for  several 
years,  according  to  its  treatment.  Renew  when  the 
plants  show  less  vigor,  from  seed. 

(2)  Moyashi  Udo.  This  is  propagated  from  roots 
only,  and  is  grown  for  forcing,  to  yield  a  winter  vege- 
table. ; 


UDO  289 

Soil. — Rich  garden  loam.  Plenty  of  manure  and 
chemicals  may  be  worked  in. 

Distances. — Set  the  roots  four  feet  by  eighteen 
inches. 

Depth  as  before,  the  top  of  the  root  lightly  covered 
with  earth. 

Culture. — Dress  occasionally  with  a  good  general 
fertilizer  and  keep  clear  of  weeds. 

Forcing. —  In  the  fall,  when  the  tops  are  killed  by 
frost,  lift  the  roots,  shake  free  of  earth,  and  store  by 
packing  in  straw  away  from  frost,  at  a  temperature  of 
about  40°.    Force  when  wanted  as  follows : 

Make  a  trench  three  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep; 
pack  in  the  bottom  three  inches  of  well-rotted  manure, 
mixed  with  good  earth.  Over  this  put  two  inches  of 
good  earth,  upon  which  set  the  roots  upright  and 
closely  together.  Cover  the  whole  with  earth,  mound- 
ing it  to  a  foot  in  height  above  the  ground.  Keep  the 
ground  watered. 

Cut  the  shoots  when  they  appear,  in  forty  to  sixty 
days,  and  continue  cutting  as  long  as  they  are  produced. 

Outdoor  forcing  is  possible  only  in  mild  climates. 
Farther  north  force  indoors  in  a  similar  manner,  under 
a  greenhouse  bench,  or  in  boxes  in  the  cellar. 

The  roots  are  best  forced  in  midwinter.  It  is  likely 
that  ether  forcing  (see  under  Rhubarb)  will  produce  a 
greater  yield,  but  it  will  exhaust  the  roots.  Forced  by 
the  above    method,  and  allowed  to  become    dormant 


290         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

again,  the  roots  may  be  planted  out  in  spring  for  use 
again  in  the  following  winter. 

UNICORN-PLANT  is  Martynia,  which  see. 

VALERIAN,  AFRICAN.  African  or  Algerian  Vale- 
rian, is  Fedia  Cornucopioe^  a  somewhat  tender  annual 
salad  plant,  similar  to  Corn  Salad. 

Soil  rich  and  moist. 

Rows  one  foot  apart  or  more. 

Depth  about  one  inch. 

Sow  in  May,  June  and  July,  successively. 

Thin  to  nine  to  twelve  inches  in  the  rows. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted  when  the  plant  is  well 
established  or  pull  the  whole  plant  at  about  eight 
weeks. 

VEGETABLE  MARROW.    See  under  Squash. 

VEGETABLE  OYSTER.    See  Salsify. 

VETTICOST.    See  Corn  Salad. 

VIPER»S  GRASS.    See  Scorzonera. 

WATER-CALTROP,  or 

WATER-CHESTNUT,  {Trapa  natans)  is  a  hardy 
and  attractive  aquatic  plant,  which  bears  a  fruit  or  nut 


WATERMELON 


291 


that  may  be  eaten  raw,  roasted  or  boiled.  The  plant  is 
seldom  cukivated.  An  Indian  species,  T.  bispbtom, 
bears  the  Singhara  nut,  well  known  in  the  East.  It  is 
cultivated  like  most  aquatic  plants,  and  cannot  be 
said  to  come  into  the  vegetable-garden  at  all. 


WATER  CRESS. 


See  Cress,  Water. 


WATERMELON  {Citrullus  vulgaris)  is  a  tender 
annual  plant  grown  for  its  large  fruits,  which  are  more 
popular,  and  are  better  grown,  in  America  than  any- 
where else  in  the  world.      Commercially,  the  Water- 


Fig.  140,    Watermelon  seedlings.    One-half  natural  size. 

melon  is  grown  almost  exclusively  in  the  South,  although 
in  home  gardens  in  the  North  its  culture  is  not  difficult, 
especially  if  started  early,  under  glass.  Good  soil, 
rotation,  ordinary  culture,  thinning  of  the  fruit,  and 
protection  against   pests,    are    all    necessary  for  good 


292         THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

results.  Varieties  are  several.  The  Citron  or  Preserv- 
ing Watermelon  (see  also  Wax  Gourd)  is  a  hard-fleshed 
strain,  used  for  sweet  pickles  and  preserves.  Diseases 
of  AVatermelon  are  not  troublesome,  but  pests  some- 
times cause  injury. 

Soil. — Light,  rich,  quick,  well  drained,  and  in  the 
best  of  tilth.  It  should  not  have  too  large  a  supply  of 
nitrogen,  as  that  will  make  the  plants  run  to  vine  and 
is  thouo^ht  to  diminish  the  sweetness  of  the  fruit.  For 
preparing  hills,  see  Soil  for  Muskmelon. 

Distances. — Hills  eight  by  eight  feet  to  twelve  by 
twelve  feet,  according  to  the  richness  of  the  ground. 
Plant  Preserving  Melons  eight  by  eight  feet. 

Depth. — One  inch  or  less. 

Sow  under  glass  in  April  or  early  May,  in  pots  or 
on  inverted  sods.  Sow  outdoors  when  frosts  are  past, 
about  June  1,  Set  the  seed  eye  down,  ten  to  twelve  to 
a  hill,  a  few  inches  apart  from  each  other  in  a  little 
circle.    Sow  six  to  the  pot. 


Fig.  141.    The  common  type  of  Watermelon. 


WATERMELON  293 

Thin  when  well  up  to  three  or  four  plants  in  the 
hill,  and  when  the  vines  are  strong  enough  to  resist 
insects  thin  again  to  two  plants  in  the  hill.  Thin 
pots  to  one  in  the  pot. 


Fig.  142.    The  Citron  or  Preserving  Watermelon. 

Set  out  house-grown  plants  when  frosts  are  past, 
two  to  the  hill. 

Cultivate  with  hand  tools  till  the  plants  cover  the 
ground. 

Thinning  of  fruit  will  give  the  best  results.  Thin 
to  one  or  two  to  the  vine. 

Fertilize  at  setting  out,  or  when  the  seedlings  are 
up,  with  a  little  nitrate  of  soda  to  each  hill.  It  is 
sometimes  the  practice  to  set  a  flower-pot  or  drain-tile 
in  the  hill,  and  water  nightly  with  weak  solutions  of 
nitrate  of  soda  and  phosphates.  Or  use  liquid  manure. 
These  feedings  with  nitrogen  should  not  be  kept  up 


294  THE    BOOK    OF   VEGETABLES 

more  than  a  month.  A  general  fertilizer,  applied  at 
sowing  or  before,  may  analyze  nitrogen  3.3  per  cent, 
phosphoric  acid  8.4  per  cent,  potash  7.5  per  cent, 
applied  at  the  rate  of  about  600  pounds  per  acre; 
follow  with  nitrate  of  soda  as  above,  or  with  cotton- 
seed meal,  dried  blood,  or  ground  tankage,  in  a  few 
light  doses. 

Pklc  when  the  melons  are  ripe,  which  is  when  the 
white  spot,  where  the  fruit  rests  on  the  ground,  turns 
yellow  and  rough;  or  when  the  fruit  no  longer  gives 
out  a  ringing  sound  when  struck  by  the  hand. 

Rotation  is  necessary  for  successful  Watermelon 
culture. 

Diseases  are  not  serious.  For  anthracnose,  see  under 
Bean ;    for  powdery  mildew,  see  under  Muskmelon. 

Pests  are  much  like  those  of  Cucumber,  which  see. 
Starnes,  speaking  in  the  Cyclopedia  of  American  Horti- 
culture of  Watermelon-growing  in  the  South,  advises 
spraying  with  Paris  green  (four  ounces  to  fifty  gallons 
water)  twice  or  three  times  at  intervals  of  a  week,  on 
the  first  appearance  of  the  melon  worm,  cucumber 
beetle,  and  flea  beetle,  spraying  intermediately  for  the 
melon  louse  with  kerosene  emulsion,  or  with  kerosene 
and  water,  one  part  to  twenty.  See  also  Muskmelon 
pests. 

WASABI  (Eutrema  wasaln)  is  the  Japanese  Horse- 
radish, which  is  so  highly  prized  in  its  own  country 


WASABI— WAX-GOURD  295 

that  it  is  being  introduced  in  America  by  the  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  which  at  present  (1907)  is  distrib- 
uting roots  to  make  it  better  known.  Its  culture  dif- 
fers somewhat  from  the  common  Horse-radish ;  its  taste 
is  more  fresh  and  sharp  than  our  own;  and  its  delicate 
green  color  makes  it  attractive. 

Soil  should  be  moist,  with  a  constant  supply  of 
water;  a  gravelly  clay  is  regarded  as  excellent.  The 
Japanese  consider  that  the  plant  needs  shade.  They 
are  sometimes  grown  in  running  water,  or  in  springy 
places  in  meadows. 

Distances. — Eighteen  inches  by  ten. 

Depth. — Set  the  roots  upright,  covering  lightly  with 
earth. 

Set  out  the  roots,  or  suckers,  in  spring,  or  in  the 
fall  when  the  roots  are  dug. 

Culture. — Fertilize  occasionally  with  a  mixture  rich 
in  nitrogen.    Give  clean  culture  for  two  years. 

Dig  the  roots  in  the  fall  of  the  second  year.    Trim 
off  the  suckers,  which  save  to  use  again. 

Use. — Grate  the  roots  and  use  like  our  horse-radish; 
or  pickle  in  vinegar.  In  Japan  the  fresh  leaves  are  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  pepper-sauce,  by  pouring  hot 
water  over  them  and  allowing  to  stand  for  several  hours. 

WAX-GOURD,  Zit-Kwa,  or  Chinese  Preserving 
Watermelon  (Benincasa  cerifera)  is  a  plant  bearing  a 
large  fruit,  hairy,  and  often  with  a  waxy  surface.    Its 


296         THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

flesh  is  used  like  that  of  the  Citron,  for  preserves  and 
sweet  pickles.  Treat  in  all  ways  like  Muskmelon,  but 
allow  only  two  fruits  to  grow  on  one  vine. 


Fig.  143.    Wax-Gourd 


WOODRUFF  {Aspenda  odoratd)  is  a  seldom-culti- 
vated perennial,  offered  by  seedsmen  among  sweet  herbs, 
and  grown  for  its  leaves,  used  in  the  flavoring  of  bever- 
ages. It  is  an  ornamental  plant,  small,  and  preferring 
shade.    It  is  sometimes  grown  as  an  edging. 

Soil. — Moist,  with  partial  shade. 

Distances. — Rows  one  foot  apart.  Thin  to  six  to 
nine  inches  in  the  row.    Or  sow  broadcast  in  a  bed. 

Depth. — About  one-half  inch. 

Sow  when  the  ground  is  fit. 

Thin  at  three  inches. 

Cidture. — Preserve  the  surface  mulch,  and  keep  the 
plant  from  spreading. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted,  when  once  the  plant  is 
well  established. 


WORMWOOD  297 

WORMWOOD  (Artemma  Absinthium)  is  a  half-hardy 
perennial,  grown  for  its  leaves,  formerly  much  used  in 
medicine,  and  now  a  principal  ingredient  in  absinthe; 
they  are  occasionally  used  in  the  kitchen  for  their  bitter 
flavor.  Wormwood  is  grown  from  seed,  cuttings,  or 
root-divisions.  Varieties  are  the  Common,  the  Roman 
(the  mildest)  and  the  Sea. 

Soil  light  and  well-drained,  not  especially  rich,  and 
if  possible  with  partial  shade  but  not  a  northerly 
exposure. 

Distances. — Thirty  to  thirty-six  inches  each  way. 

Depth  of  seed  about  one-fourth  inch.  Of  rooted  cut- 
tings or  root-divisions,  as  before. 

Sow  the  seed  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  the  spring,  when 
heavy  frosts  are  past.  Sow  in  a  seed-bed  from  which  the 
seed  will  not  wash  out. 

Thin  at  three  inches  to  three  inches  apart.  When 
six  inches  tall 

Transplant  to  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  apart  each 
way.  Later  remove  the  alternate  plants  and  rows,  to 
make  the  permanent  plantation. 

Set  root -divisions  in  spring. 

Make  cuttings  in  early  summer ;  shade  and  water  till 
established.  Transplant  in  early  fall  or  the  following 
spring. 

Pick  the  leaves  as  wanted,  or  cut  a  winter  supply 
when  the  plant  is  coming  into  flower ;  dry  it  and  store. 

Protect  over  winter  with  a  mulch. 


298  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

YAM  (Dioscorea)  is  a  plant  of  several  varieties,  all 
gro\^Ti  for  their  tuberous  roots,  but  mostly  semi-tropi- 
cal, so  that  few  of  them  can  be  grown  in  the  United 
States.  The  Jamaica  Yams  need  for  successful  culture 
at  least  fifty  inches  of  rainfall  in  a  year,  and  must  have 
a  long  season.  Their  "heads,""  or  clusters  of  short  roots, 
may  be  sprouted  in  coldframes,  and  set  out  when 
frosts  are  past,  three  in  a  hill,  hills  six  to  eight  feet 
apart  each  way.  After  five  to  six  months,  or  less  if  the 
heads  have  been  well  sprouted,  new  heads  can  be  dug 
from  under  the  old,  care  being  taken  to  leave  as  many 
of  the  roots  as  possible  undisturbed.  Subsequent  dig- 
gings are  possible,  three  or  more  in  all  to  each  vine. 
In  each  hill  a  stake  should  be  set,  seven  to  eight  feet 
tall,  for  the  vines.  Heads,  if  whitewashed,  and  not 
bruised  or  cut,  will  keep  well.  Of  Jamaica  Yams  the 
"yampie*"  is  best,  the  "negro  yam""*  earliest  but  coarse. 

Barbadoes  Yams  are  again  quite  different,  being 
either  grown  from  cuttings  of  the  tubers  like  white 
potatoes,  or  else  sprouted  in  a  coldframe  like  sweet 
potatoes.  Field  culture  is  exactly  like  that  for  sweet 
potatoes. 

For  the  North  the  Chinese  or  Japanese  Yam  is  of 
possible  culture,  being  hardy.  Plant  the  roots  or 
rhizomes,  about  nine  inches  long,  in  hills  six  feet  apart 
each  way,  and  furnish  each  with  a  stake.  Or  the  roots 
may  be  sprouted  under  glass  for  an  earlier  start,  about 
the  middle  of  April.    Give  good  culture  and  water  in  a 


YAM 


drought.  Train  or  tie  the  wires  to  the  stakes.  The 
"out*"  with  this  Yam  is  the  depth  to  which  its  large 
roots  descend,  often  to  three  feet,  and  thickening  at 
the  lower  end,  so  that  digging  is  difficult.  As  table 
vegetables  these  Yams  compare  favorably  wi  th  potatoes. 

ZIT-KWA.    See  Wax-Gourd. 


Fig.  144,    Pumpkin,  improperly  picked.    The  stem  should  be 
cut  clean.    See  page  264. 


TABLE  OF  SEED-LONGEVITY  AND 
OUNCE-VALUES 

This  table  is  necessarily  incomplete  and  inaccurate, 
and  is  offered  here  for  what  it  may  be  worth.  The 
longevity  table  states  the  average  number  of  years 
(calculating  from  the  experiments  of  several  investi- 
gators) after  which  it  is  not  probable  that  seed  can 
profitably  be  sown,  the  per  cent  of  germination  being 
small.  The  ounce-values  have  not  been  so  carefully 
computed ;  see  the  Preface.  Reliable  corrections  will 
be  welcomed  by  the  author. 

Angelica.    One  to  two  years. 

Anise.    Three  years. 

Artichoke,  Globe.    Six  years.    30  feet. 

Asparagus.    Five  years.    300  feet. 

Balm.    Four  years. 

Basil.    Eight  years. 

Beans,  Broad.    Six  years.    Quart,  100  feet. 

Kidney.    Three  years.    Quart,  150  hills. 

Dwarf  Kidney.   Three  years.   Quart,  200  feet. 

Lima,  Pole.    Quart,  100  hills. 

Lima,  Dwarf.    Quart,  200  feet. 
Beet.    Six  years.    60  feet. 
Borage.    Eight  years. 

(300) 


OUNCE  -VALUES  30 1 

Broccoli.    Three  years.    2,500  plants. 

Brussels  Sprouts.    Three  years.    3,000  plants. 

Buck's-Hom  Plantain.    Four  years. 

Burdock,  Edible.    Five  years. 

Burnet.    Three  years. 

Cabbage.    Four  years.    2,500  plants. 

Caraway.    Three  years. 

Cardoon.    Seven  years. 

Carrot.    Five  years.    300  feet,  if  fresh. 

Catnip.    Five  years. 

Cauliflower.    Three  years.    3,000  plants. 

Celeriac.    Six  years.    5,000  plants. 

Celery.    Seven  years.    5,000  to  10,000  plants. 

Chard.    Six  years.    50  feet. 

Chervil,  Salad.    Two  to  three  years.    150  feet. 

Turnip-rooted.    One  year. 
Chicory.    One  year.    100  feet. 
Clary.    Three  years. 
Collards.    3,000  plants. 
Coriander.    Six  years. 

Corn.    Two  years.    Quart,  150  or  more  hills. 
Corn-salad.    Five  years.    200  feet. 
Cress,  Common.    Five  years.    100  feet. 

Upland.    Three  years. 

Water.    Five  years. 
Cucumber.    Ten  years.    75  hills. 
Cumin.    Two  years. 
Dandelion.    Two  years.    250  feet. 


302  THE    BOOK    OF    VEGETABLES 

Dill.    Three  years. 
Eggplant.   Six  years.    2,500  plants. 
Endive.    Eight  years.    200  feet. 
Evening  Primrose.    Three  years. 
Fennel,  Common.    Four  years. 

Sweet.    Four  years. 

Florence.    Four  years. 
Goosefoot,  Annual.    Four  years. 

Perennial.    Five  years. 
Horehound.    Three  years. 
Hyssop.    Three  years. 
Iceplant.    Five  years. 

Kale.    Seven  years.    250  feet.    2,000  plants. 
Kohlrabi.    Four  years.    200  feet.    1,500  plants. 
Lavender.    Five  years. 
Leek.    Two  to  three  years.    150  feet. 
Lentil.    Four  years. 

Lettuce.    Five  years.    300  feet.    1,000  plants. 
Lovage.    Three  years. 
Mallow,  Curled.    Five  years. 

Jews.    Five  years. 
Marigold.    Three  years. 
Marjoram,  Pot.    Five  years. 

Sweet.    Three  years. 
Martynia.    One  to  two  years.    100  hills. 
Mugwort.    Three  years. 
Musk  melon.    Ten  years.    75  hills. 
Mustard.    Four  years.    60  feet. 


OUNCE -VALUES  803 

Nasturtium.    Four  to  five  years.    50  feet. 

Nigella  Sativa.    Three  years. 

Nightshade,  both  kinds.    Five  years. 

Okra.    Five  years.    50  feet. 

Onion.    Two  years.    100  feet. 

Orach.    Six  years.    50  feet. 

Parsley.    Two  years.    150  feet. 

Parsnip.    One  year.    400  feet. 

Pea.    Three  years.    Quart,  100  feet. 

Peanut.    One  year. 

Pepper.    Four  years.    2,000  plants. 

Purslane.    Seven  years. 

Winter.    Five  years. 
Radish.    Five  years.    125  feet. 
Rocket.    Four  years. 
Rosemary.    Four  years. 
Rue.    Two  years. 
Rutabaga.    Six  years.    200  feet. 
Sage.    Three  years. 
Salsify.    Two  years.    60  feet. 
Samphire.    Sow  when  ripe. 
Savory,  Summer.    Three  years. 
Winter.    Three  years. 
Scolymus.    Three  years.    70  feet. 
Scorzonera.    Two  years.    80  feet. 
Sea-Kale.    One  year.    300  plants. 
Skirret.    Three  years. 
Sorrel.    Four  years.  150  feet. 


304  THE    BOOK    OF    \  EGETABLES 

Spinach.    Five  years.    150  feet. 

New  Zealand.    Five  years.    50  feet. 
Squash.    Four  years.    Bush.    50  hills. 

Running.    15  hills. 
Tansy.    Two  years. 
Thyme.    Three  years. 
Tomato.    Twelve  years.    2,000  to  2,500  plants. 

Strawberry.    Four  years. 
Turnip.    Eight  years.    2,000  to  3,000  plants. 
Valerian.    Four  years. 
Wormwood.    Four  years. 
Watermelon.    Six  years.    30  hills. 


ADDENDA 

Asparagus. — Select,  for  planting,  the  plants  which 
have  coarse  roots  and  shoots,  rejecting  all  which  have 
fine  roots  and  small  though  numerous  shoots. 

Cabbage  Worm. — A  favorite  remedy  with  some 
Cabbage  and  Cauliflower  growers  is  saltpeter,  one 
ounce  dissolved  in  three  gallons  of  water.  Sprinkle 
the  heads  thoroughly;  one  application  is  usually 
enough,  unless  soon  washed  off  by  heavy  rains.  The 
saltpeter  will  not  discolor  Cauliflower  heads. 


INDEX 


Agrimonia  Eupatoria,  Agri- 
mony, 1. 

Agrimony,  1,  127. 

Agrimony,  Hemp.  See  Thorough- 
wort,  273. 

Alecost,  see  Costmary,  106. 

Allium  Ascalonicum,  Shallot, 
251. 

Allium  Cepa,  Onion,  173. 

Allium  fistulosum ,V^ elsh  Onion, 
184. 

Allium  lusitanicum,  Perennial 
Welsh  Onion,  184. 

Allium  Porrutn,  Leek,  145. 

Allium  proliferutH,  Perennial 
Onion,  183. 

Allium  sativum,  Garlic,  128. 

Allium  Schcenoprasum,  Give, 
95. 

Allium  Scorodoprasum,  Rocam- 
bole, 230. 

Althcea  officinalis,  Marsh -Mal- 
low, 159. 

Amarantus  retroflexus,  Pigweed, 
206. 

Anetlium  graveolens ,  Dill,  116. 

Angelica,  2,  300. 

Angelica  officinalis,  2. 

Anise,  2,  300. 

Anfhemis  nobilis,  Camomile,  64. 

Apium  graveolens,  Celery,  77. 

Apium  graveolens,  var.  rapa- 
ceum,  Celeriac,  75. 

Arachis  hypogcea.  Peanut,  199. 

Aralia  cordata,  Udo,  287. 

Arnica,  3. 

Arnica  montana,  3. 

Artemisia  Absinthium,  Worm- 
wood, 297. 

Artemisia  Dracunculus,  Tarra- 
gon, 272. 

Artemisia  vulgaris,  Mugwort, 
162. 

Artichoke,  Chinese,  see  Stachys, 
266. 


Artichoke,  French,  3. 
Artichoke,  Globe,  xxiv,  3,  300, 
Artichoke,  Japanese,  see  Stachvs. 

266. 
Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  xxiv,  8. 
Asparagus,  xiv,  xv,  9,  300. 
Asparagus  officinalis,  9. 
Asperula  odorata.  Woodruff,  296. 
Atriplex  hortensis,  Orach,  186. 
Aubergine,  see  Eggplant,  117. 

Balm,  28,  300. 

Barharea  prcecox,  Upland  Cress, 
108. 

Barharea  I'MZ^raris,  Upland  Cress, 
108. 

Barbe  de  Capucin,  see  Chicory, 
91,  93. 

Basella  alba,  Malabar  Night- 
shade, 169. 

Basella  cordi folia,  see  under 
Malabar  Nightshade,  169. 

Basil,  29,  300. 

Beans,  Broad,  33,  300. 

Beans,  Dolichos,  42. 

Beans,  General,  30. 

Beans,  Kidney,  35.  Dwarf  or 
bush,  36,  300. 

Beans,  Kidney,  35.  Pole  or  run- 
ning, 38,  300. 

Beans,  Lima,  40,  300. 

Beans,  Scarlet  Runner,  43. 

Beans,  Soy,  42. 

Beet,  44,  300. 

Beet-root,  same  as  Beet,  44. 

Beet,  Asparagus,  Leaf,  Kale,  Sea- 
Kale,  Silver,  or  Spinach,  see 
Chard,  86. 

Beet,  Sugar,  48. 

Bene,  48. 

Benincasa  cerifera,  Wax  Gourd, 
295. 

Beta  cycla,  Chard,  86. 

Beta  vulgaris,  Beet,  44. 

Beta  vulgaris.  Chard,  86. 


(305) 


306 


INDEX 


Bitter-bush,    see    Thoroug:hwort, 

273. 
Boneset,  see  Thoroughwort,  273. 
Borage,  48,  300. 
Boraqo  officinalis.  Borage,  48. 
Borecole,  see  Kale,  140. 
Brassica  campestris,  Rutabaga, 

234. 
Brassica    Japonica,     California 

Peppergrass,  205. 
Brassica  oleracea,  Cabbage,  55. 
Brassica  oleracea,  xar.  acephala, 

Kale,  140. 
Brassica  oleracea,  var.  botrytis, 

Broccoli,  49. 
Brassica  oleracea,  var.  botrytis, 

Cauliflower,  71. 
Brassica    oleracea,    var.    caiilo- 

rapa,  Kohlrabi,  142. 
Brassica   oletacea,  var.  gemmif- 

era,  Brussels  Sprouts,  51. 
Brassica  Pe-tsai,  Pe-tsai,  205. 
Brassica  sinensis,  Pak-choi,  187. 
Brassica  rapa.  Turnip,  285. 
Broccoli,  49,  301. 
Brussels  Sprouts,  51,  301. 
Buck's-Horn  Plantain,  54,  301. 
Bunias    orien  talis,    Turkish 

Rocket,  231. 
Burdock,  Edible,  54,  301. 
Burnet,  55,  301. 
Burnet   saxifrage,    see    Pimpi- 

nella,  206. 
Buttons,  see  Tansy,  271. 

Cabbage,  55,  3i)0. 

Cabbage,  Chinese,  see  Pak-choi, 

187. 
Cabbage,    Chinese,    see    Pe-tsai, 

205. 
Cabbage,   Turnip-rooted,    see 

Kohlrabi,  142. 
Cabbage,    Turnip-rooted,   see 

Rutabaga,  234. 
Calendula  officinalis,  Pot  Mari- 
gold, 157. 
Camomile,  64. 
Camomile,   Wild,    see   Feverfew, 

127. 
Camomilla,  see  Camomile,  64. 
Campanula    Rapunculus,    Ram- 

pion,  225. 


Cantaloup,  see  Muskmelon,  163. 

Capsicum,  see  Pepper,  202. 

Caraway,  65,  301. 

Cardoon,  xxiv,  65,  301. 

Carosella,  126. 

Carrot,  xxiv,  68,  301. 

Cnrnm  cariii.  Caraway,  65. 

Carum  Petroselinum,  Parslev, 
188. 

Castor-oil  Plant,  71. 

Catmint,  71. 

Catnip,  71,  301. 

Cauliflower,  71,  301. 

Celeriac,  xxiv,  75,  301. 

Celery,  xiv,  77,  301. 

Celerj',  Knob,  see  Celeriac,  75. 

Celery,  Turnip  -  rooted,  see  Ce- 
leriac, 75. 

Chcerophyllutn  bnlbosum,  Tur- 
nip-rooted Chervil,  89. 

Chamomile,  see  Camomile,  64. 

Chard,  xxiv,  86,  301. 

Chards,  4,  7. 

Chenopodinm  album  ,  Pigweed, 
206. 

Chenopodi^im  Bonus  Benricus, 
see  Perennial  Goosefoot,  131. 

Chenopodinm  capitatum.  Straw- 
berry Blite,  268. 

Chenopodinm  Quinoa,  see  Annual 
Goosefoot,  130. 

Cherry,  Bladder,  Ground,  or 
Winter,  see  Strawberry  To- 
mato, 282. 

Chervil,  Bulbous-rooted,  89. 

Chervil,  Salad  or  Leaf,  88,  301. 

Chervil,  Sweet-scented,  see 
Sweet  Cicely,  268. 

Chervil,  Tuberous.  89. 

Chervil,  Turnip-rooted,  89,  301. 

Chicoritim  Bndivia,  Endive,  122. 

Chicorium  Intybus,  Chicory, 
90. 

Chicory,  90,  301. 

C  h  i  Ti  e  s  e  Preserving  Melon  or 
Watermelon,  see  Wax  Gourd, 
295. 

Chive  or  Chives,  see  Cive,  95. 

Chorogi,  see  Stachys  tuberifera, 
206. 

Chrysanthemum  Balsamita  tnn- 
acetoides,  see  Costmary,  100. 


INDEX 


307 


Chrysanthemum  Pa  rthenitim , 
Feverfew,  127. 

Chufa,  94. 

Cibol,  1.  Shallot,  251. 

2.  Welsh  Onion,  184. 

Ciboule,  see  Welsh  Onion,  184. 

Citron,    see   under   Watermelon, 
291. 

Citrulhis  vulgaris,  Watermelon, 
291. 

Give,  95. 

Clary.  96,  301. 

Claytonia    perfoJiata,    Winter 
Purslane,  220. 

Cochlearia  Armoracia,  Horse- 
radish, 135. 

Cochlearia  officinalis,  Scurvy - 
grass,  244. 

Colewort.  97. 

Collards,  97,  301. 

Corchorus  olitorius,   Jew's   Mal- 
low, 1.56. 

Coriander,  98,  301. 

Coriandrum  sativum,  Coriander, 
98. 

Corn,  99,  301. 

Corn,  Pop,  104. 

Corn,  Sugar,  99. 

Corn,  Sweet,  99. 

Corn  Salad,  xiv,  104,  301. 

Costmary,  106. 

Cramhe  maritima,  Sea-Kale,  244. 

Cress,  American,  108. 

Cress,  Belleisle,  108. 

Cress,  Common  or  Garden,  106, 
301. 

Cress,  Curled,  106. 

Cress,  Hardy,  108. 

Cress,   Indian,    see   Nasturtium, 
167. 

Cress,  Pepper,  106. 

Cress,  Scurvv,  108. 

Cress,  Upland,  108,  301. 

Cress,  Water,  108,  301. 

Cress,  Winter,  108. 

Crithmum      maritlynum,      Sam- 
phire, 2.39. 

Crocus  sativus,  Saffron,  235. 

Cucumber,  109,  301. 

Cucumis  Melo,  Muskmelon,  163. 

Cucumis  sativus,  Cucumber,  109. 

Cucurbitce,  see  Squash,  201. 


Cumin,  114,  301. 

Cuminum  cyminum.  Cumin,  114. 

Cynara cardunculus ,  Cardoon, 
65. 

Cynara  scolymus.  Globe  Arti- 
choke, 3. 

Cyperus  esculentus  or  C.  rotun- 
diis,  Chufa,  94. 

Dandelion,  114,  301. 
Daucus  carota.  Carrot,  68. 
Dew  Plant,  see  Ice  Plant,  139. 
Digitalis    purpurea,     Foxglove, 

128. 
Dill,  116,  302. 
Dioscurea,  Yam,  298. 
Dock,  see  Sorrel,  253. 
Dolichos  Bean,  42. 

Earth  Nut,  see  Peanut,  199. 
Eggplant,  117,  302. 
Elecampane,  121. 
Endive,  122,  302. 
Endive,  Wild,  see  Chicory,  90. 
Eruca  saliva,  Roquette,  231. 
Escarolle,  a  winter  Endive,  122. 
Uupatorium,  Thoroughwort,  273. 
Uiitrema  wasabi,  Wasabi  ,294. 
Evening  Primrose,  125,  302. 

Fedia  cornucopice,  Valerian,  290. 

Fennel,  125. 

Fennel.  Bitter,  126. 

Fennel,  Common,  126,  302. 

Fennel,  Garden,  126. 

Fennel,  Florence,  126,  302, 

Fennel,  Naples,  126. 

Fennel,  Sea,  see  Samphire,  239. 

Fennel,  Sweet,  126,  302. 

Fennel,  Wild,  126. 

Fennel   Flower,  see   Nigella    sa- 

tiva,  168. 
Fetticus,  see  Corn  Salad,  104. 
Feverfew,  127. 
Finocchio,  126. 
Foenictilum  dulce,  126. 
Foeniculnm  officinale,  126. 
Foeniculum  vulgare,  126. 
Foxglove,  Purple,  128. 
Fmnaria    officinalis,    Fumitorv. 

128. 
Fumitory,  128. 


308 


INDEX 


Garlic,  128. 

Gherkin,  see  Cucumber,  109. 

Glycine  hispida,  Soy  Bean,  42. 

Glycirrhiza  glabra,  Licorice,  155. 

Gobo,  see  Burdock,  54. 

Golden    Thistle,    see   Scolymus, 

242. 
Gombo,  see  Okra,  170, 
Goober,  see  Peanut,  199. 
Good  King  Henry,  see  Perennial 

Goosefoot,  131. 
Gooseberry,  Barbadoes,  or  Capp, 

see  Strawberry  Tomato,  282. 
Goosefoot,  Annual,  130,  302. 
Goosefoot,  Perennial,  131,  302. 
Gourds,  132. 

Ground  Nut,  see  Peanut,  199. 
Ground  Pea,  see  Peanut,  199. 
Guinea  Squash,  see  Eggplant, 117. 
Gumbo,  see  Okra,  170. 

Hartshorn  Plantain,  see  Buck's- 

Horn  Plantain,  54. 
Helianthus  tuherosus,  Jerusalem 

Artichoke,  8. 
Henbane,  133. 

Herb  of  Grace,  see  Rue,  233. 
Herb  Patience,  see  under  Sorrel, 

253. 
Herbs,  133. 

Hibiscus  esculentus,  Okra,  170. 
Hop,  133. 

Horehound,  134,  302. 
Horse-Radish,  135. 
Horse- Radish,     Japanese,     see 

Wasabi,  294. 
Humuhis  Luptihis,  Hop,  133. 
ITyoscyamus  niger,  Henbane,  133, 
Hyssop,  138,  .302. 
Hyssopus  officinalis,  138. 

Ice-Plant,  139,  302. 

Ice-Plant,  New  Zealand,  see  Spin- 
ach, New  Zealand,  259. 

Inula  crithmi folia,  see  under 
Samphire,  2.39. 

Inula  Selenium,  Elecampane, 
121. 

Ipomoea  Batatas,  Sweet  Potato, 
269. 

Jur-Nut,  see  Peanut,  199. 


Kale,  140,  302. 

Knotroot,  see  Stachys  tuberifera, 

266. 
Kohlrabi,  142,  302. 

Lactuca  sativa.  Lettuce,  148. 

Lamb's  Lettuce,  see  Corn  Salad, 
104. 

Lamb's  Quarter,  see  Pigweed, 
206. 

Lantern  Plant,  see  Strawberry 
Tomato,  282. 

Lappa  edtilis.  Edible  Burdock, 
54. 

Lavandula  spica,  Common  Lav- 
ender, 144. 

Lavandula  vera.  True  Lavender, 
144. 

Lavender,  144,  302. 

Leek,  145,  241.  302. 

Lemon,  Garden,  see  Muskmelon, 
163. 

Lens  esculenta.  Lentil,  148. 

Lentil,  148,  302. 

Lepidium  sativum,  Cress,  106. 

Lettuce,  148,  302. 

Lettuce,  Asparagus,  153. 

Lettuce,  Perennial,  154. 

Levistieum  officinale,  Lovage, 
154. 

Ligusticum  Scoticum,  Scotch 
Lovage,  155. 

Lovache,  154. 

Lovage,  154,  302. 

Lovage,  Scotch,  155. 

Love-Apple,  see  Tomato,  274. 

Love-in-a-Mist,  see  Nigella  sa- 
tiva, 168. 

Licorice,  155. 

Liquorice,  see  Licorice,  155. 

Lycopersicnm  esculentum,  Toma- 
to, 274. 

Lycopersicum  pimpinelli folium, 
see  under  Tomato,  277. 

Mallow,  156,  302. 
Mallow,  Curled,  156. 
Mallow,  Jew's,  156,  302. 
Mallow,  Marsh,    see   Marsh-Mal- 
low, 159. 
Malva  crispa,  Mallow,  156. 
Mangel  Wurzel,  157. 


INDEX 


Mangoes,  202. 

Manila  Nut,  see  Peanut,  199. 

Marigold,  157,  302. 

Marigold,  Sweet-scented,  see 
under  Tarragon,  272. 

Marjoram,  Annua],  158. 

Marjoram,  Pot,  157,  302. 

Marjoram,  Sweet,  158,  302. 

Marrow,  Vegetable,  see  under 
Squash,  261. 

Marrtibiiim  vulgare,  Horehound, 
134. 

Marsh-Mallow,  159. 

Martynia,  159,  302. 

Melissa  officinalis,  Balm,  28. 

Melon,  see  Muskmelon,  163. 

Melon,  see  Watermelon,  291. 

Melon  Peach,  see  Muskmelon, 
163. 

Melon,  Preserving,  see  Water- 
melon, 291. 

Mentha,  Mint,  161. 

Mentha  pnlegium,  Pennyroyal, 
202. 

Mercurv,  see  Goosefoot,  Peren- 
nial, 131. 

Mesembryanth  emum  crystalli- 
num,  Ice  Plant,  139. 

Mint,  161. 

Mint,  Green,  161. 

Mint,  Japanese,  161. 

Mountain  Tobacco,  see  Arnica,  3. 

Mountain  Snuff,  see  Arnica,  3. 

Mugwort,  162,  302. 

Muskmelon,  163,  302. 

Mustard,  166,  302. 

Mustard,  Tuberous-rooted,  167. 

Myrrhis  odorata,  Sweet  Cicelv, 
268. 

Nasturtium,  167,  303. 

Nasturtium,  Tuberous-rooted,  168. 

yasturtitcm  officinale,  Water- 
cress, 108. 

JYepeta  cataria.  Catnip,  71. 

New  Zealand  Spinach,  see  Spin- 
ach, New  Zealand,  259. 

Nigella  sativa,  168,  303. 

Nightshade,  Black-berried,  169, 
.303. 

Nightshade,  Malabar  or  White, 
169.  303. 


Oca,170. 

Ocimuni  hasilicum,  Basil,  29. 

CEnothera  6ie»<«is,  Evening  Prim- 
rose, 125. 

Okra,  170,  303. 

Old  Man,  see  Rosemary,  232. 

Onion,  173,  303. 

Onion,  Canada,  see  Perennial 
Onion,  183. 

Onion,  Perennial,  Tree  or  Egyp- 
tian, 183. 

Onion,  Welsh,  184. 

Onion,  Welsh  Perennial,  184. 

Opium  Poppy,  185. 

Orach,  186,  303. 

Origanum  majorana,  Sweet  Mar- 
joram, 158. 

Origanum  vulgare,  Pot  Mar- 
joram, 157. 

Oxalis  acetosella.  Wood  Sorrel, 
254. 

Oxalis  crenata.  Oca,  170. 

Oxalis  Deppei,  Deppe's  Wood 
Sorrel,  255. 

Oyster-Plant,  see  Salsify,  237. 

Oyster-Plant,  Spanish,  see  Scoly- 
mus,  242. 

Oyster,  Vegetable,  see  Salsify, 
237. 

Pak-choi,  187. 

Papaver      somniferum,      Opium 

Poppy,  185. 
Parsley,  188,  303. 
Parsley,  Hamburg,  190. 
Parsley  Pert,  see  Samphire,  239. 
Parsley,  Turnip-rooted,  190. 
Parsnip,  191,  303. 
Pastinaca  sativa,  Parsnip,  191. 
Patience  Dock,  see  Sorrel,  253. 
Patience,  Herb,  see  Sorrel,  253. 
Pea,  XV,  193,  303. 
Pea,    Edible -podded,  or  Sugar, 

198 
Pea,  Winged,  198. 
Peanut,  199,  303. 
Pennvroval,  202. 
Pepper,  202,  303. 
Pepper,  Green.  202. 
Peppergrass  is  Garden  Cress,  106. 
Peppergrass,  California,  205. 
Peppermint,  see  Mint,  161. 


310 


INDEX 


Pe-tsai,  205. 

Phaseolus  liinatus,  40, 

Phaseolus  multiflorus,  43. 

Phaseolus  vulgaris,  35. 

Physalis,  282 

Picridhim  vulgare,  206,  243. 

Pie  Plant,  see  Rhubarb,  226. 

Pigweed,  206. 

Pimpernel,  206. 

Pimpinella,  206. 

Pimpinella  anisxim.  Anise,  2. 

Pimpinella  Saxifraga,  206. 

Pindar,  see  Peanut,  199. 

Pisum  sativum,  Pt-a,  193. 

Plantago  coronopns,  54. 

Plantain,  see  Buck's-Horn  Plan- 
tain, 54. 

Poppy,  Opium,  185. 

Portulaca  oleracea.  Purslane, 
219. 

Poterium  sanguisorba,  Burnet, 
55. 

Potato,  207. 

Potato,  Canada,  see  Jerusalem 
Artichoke,  8. 

Potato,  "New  French,"  see  Sola- 
num  Commersoni,  253. 

Potato,  Spanish,  see  Sweet  Potato, 
269. 

Pumpkin,  see  under  Squash,  261. 

Purslane,  219,  303. 

Purslane,  Winter,  220,  .303. 

Pusley,  see  Purslane,  219. 

Quinoa,  White,  see  Annual 
Goosefoot,  130. 

Radish,  220,  303. 

Radish.  Edible-podded,  224. 

Radish,  Rat-tailed,  224. 

Rampion,  225. 

Rape,  225. 

Haphamts  caudatus,   Rat -tailed 

Radish,  224. 
Raphanus   sativus.  Radish,  220. 
Rheum  Rhaponticum,  Rhubarb, 

226. 
Rhubarb,  226. 
Ricinu  s  communis,  Castor  -  oil 

Plant,  71. 
Rocambole,  230. 
Rocket,  231,  303. 


Rocket,  Turkish,  231. 
Rocket  Salad,  231. 
Roquette,  231,  303. 
Rosemary,  232,  303. 
Rosmarinus   officinalis,   R  o  s  e  - 

mary,  232. 
Rue,  233,  303. 
Rumex,  see  Sorrel,  253. 
Ruta  graveolens,  Rue,  233. 
Rush-nut,  see  Chufa,  94. 
Rutabaga,  234,  303. 

Saffron,  235. 

Sage,  235,  303. 

Salsafy,  237. 

Salsify,  237,  303. 

Salsify,  Black,  see  Scorzonera, 
243. 

Salsify,  Spanish,  see  Scolymus, 
242. 

Salvia  officinalis.  Sage,  235. 

Salvia  selarea,  Clary,  96. 

Samphire,  239,  303. 

Samphire,  Golden,  see  under 
Samphire,  239. 

Satureia  hortensis.  Summer  Sa- 
vory, 240. 

Satureia  montana.  Winter  Sa- 
vory, 241. 

Savory,  Summer,  240,  303. 

Savory,  Winter,  241,  303. 

Scallion,  241. 

Scandix  cerefolium,  Salad  Cher- 
vil, 88. 

Scolymus,  242,  303. 

Scolymus  Hispanicus,  242. 

Scorzonera,  243,  303. 

Scorzonera,  French,  243. 

Scorzonera  Hispanica,  243. 

Scorzonera  picroides,  243. 

Scurvy  Grass.  244. 

Scullion,  see  Scallion,  241. 

Sea-fennel,  see  Samphire,  239. 

Sea-kale,  xxiv,  244,  303. 

Sea-purslane,  see  Orach,  186. 

Sesamum  orientale.  Bene,  48. 

Shallot,  241,  251. 

Sium  Sisarum,  Skirret,  252. 

Skirret,  252,  303. 

Skirwort,  see  Skirret,  252. 

Smoke  of  the  Earth,  see  Fumi- 
tory, 128. 


INDEX 


311 


Snuflf,  Mountain,  see  Arnica,  3. 

Soja  Bean,  42. 

Solammi  commersoni,  "New 

French  Potato,"  253. 
Solatium    tnelongena,    Eggplant, 

117. 
Solanum  nigrum,  Black -berried 

Nightshade,  169. 
Solamim  tuberosum,  Potato,  207. 
Sorrel,  253,  303. 
Sorrel,  Wood,  255. 
Sorrel,  Deppe's  Wood,  255. 
Soy  Bean,  42. 
Spearmint,  see  Mint,  161. 
Spinach,  256,  304. 
Spinach,  French  or  Mountain,  see 

Orach,  186. 
Spinach,  New  Zealand,  259,  304. 
Spinach  Dock,  see  under  Sorrel, 

253. 
Spinacia  oleracea,  Spinach,  256. 
Spinage,  see  Spinach,  256. 
Sprouts,  see  Brussels  Sprouts,  51. 
Squash,  261,  304. 
Squash,   Guinea,  see  Eggplant, 

117. 
Stacliys  ttiberifera,  266. 
Star  of   the   Earth,   see  Buck's- 

Horn  Plantain,  54. 
St.  Peter's  Herb,  see  Samphire, 

239. 
Strawberry  Blite,  268. 
Succory,  see  Chicory,  90. 
Sugar  Beet,  see  Beet,  Sugar,  48. 
Sugar  Corn,  see  Corn,  99. 
Swedish  Turnip,  see  Rutabaga, 

234. 
Sweet  Basil,  see  Basil,  29. 
Sweet  Cicely,  268. 
Sweet-scented  Chervil,  see  Sweet 

Cicely,  268. 
Sweet  Corn,  see  Corn,  99. 
Sweet  Potato,  269. 

Tagetes  lucida,  Sweet-scented 
Marigold,  see  under  Tarragon, 
272. 

Tanacetum  vulgare,  Tansy,  271. 

Tansy,  271,  304. 

Taraxacum  officinale.  Dande- 
lion, 114. 

Tarragon,  272. 


Tetragonia    expansa,    New   Zea- 
land Spinach,  259. 
Thistle,   Golden,    see    Scolymus, 

242. 
Thoroughwort,  273. 
Thyme,  273,  304. 
Thymus  citriodorus,  see  Thyme, 

274. 
Thymus  vulgaris,  see  Thyme, 

273. 
Tobacco,  274. 

Tobacco,  Mountain,  see  Arnica,  3. 
Tomato,  274,  304. 
Tomato,  Husk,  277,  282,  304. 
Tomato,  Strawberry,  277,  282, 

304. 
Tragopogon  porrifoUus ,  Salsify, 

237. 
Trapa   natans.  Water  Chestnut, 

290. 
Tropn'olnm,  see  Nasturtium,  106, 

167. 
Tree  Primrose,  see   Evening 

Primrose,  125. 
Turnip,  285,  304. 
Turnip,  Swedish,  see  Rutabaga, 

234. 
Turnip-rooted  Cabbage,  Kohlrabi, 

142. 
Turnip-rooted    Cabbage,    R  u  t  a  - 

baga,  234. 
Turnip-rooted  Parsley,  190. 
Turnip-rooted  Chervil,  89. 

Udo,  287. 

Udo,  Kan,  287. 

Udo,  Moyashi,  288. 

Unicorn  Plant,  see  Martynia,  159. 

Valerian,  290,  304. 

Valerianella  olitoria.    Corn 

Salad,  104. 
Vegetable  Marrow,  see  under 

Squash,  261. 
Vegetable    Oyster,    see    Salsify, 

237. 
Vetticost,  see  Corn  Salad,  104. 
Vicia  Faha,  the  Broad  Bean,  33. 
Viper's   Grass,  see   Scorzonera, 

243. 

Wasabi,  294. 


31^  INDEX 


Water  Caltrop,  see  Water  Chest-       Woodruff,  296. 

nut,  290.  Wormwood,  297,  304. 
Water  Chestnut,  290. 

Water  Cress,  108.  Yam,  298. 
Watermelon,  291,  304. 

W^ax  Gourd,  295.  Zea  Mays,  Corn,  99. 
Witloof,  see  under  Chicorj',  91,  93.       Zit-Kwa,  see  Wax  Gourd,  295. 


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